Estimated reading time: 4 min

Sew a Japanese bag - here's how!

07.01.2019 by Sabine Schmidt

What do I need for that?

Materials & Details

Disappearing marker^*

Iron^*

Machine:: Overlock seamBackstitch functionStraight stitch
Iron-on patch:: Vlieseline H630

further information

Needle:: Universal needle^*

Woven cotton is a classic, non-stretch cotton fabric. It's comfortable to wear, relatively lightweight and at the same time nicely stable.

The surface is usually smooth or slightly matte and feels natural and soft. Depending on the quality, it can be thinner for light clothing or a little firmer for sturdier projects.

Woven cotton is really easy to sew: it hardly slips, is easy to cut and is great for beginners too.

It's perfect for blouses, shirts, dresses, skirts or for decor such as cushions, pouches and patchwork.

In short: simple, versatile and a true all-rounder for lots of sewing ideas

Canvas^*

Machine:: Overlock seamBackstitch functionStraight stitch
Iron-on patch:: Vlieseline H200

further information

Needle:: Universal needle^*
Yarn:: All-purpose sewing thread^*

Canvas is a very sturdy, densely woven fabric that feels really stable. It's usually made of cotton or a cotton blend and is made to withstand quite a lot.

The surface is rather firm and sometimes slightly rough, but can be a little smoother depending on the finish. Canvas has hardly any stretch, but keeps its shape nicely.

Sewing it can take some effort because it's thick and stable – but in return you get a very long-lasting result. Fraying is easy to keep under control with the right technique.

Canvas is perfect for bags, backpacks, seat cushions, decor or even sturdy jackets.

In short: strong, long-lasting and ideal for anything that needs to be really stable.

coated cotton^*

Machine:: Backstitch functionStraight stitch
Iron-on patch:: Vlieseline H640

further information

Needle:: Universal needle^*

Coated cotton is a cotton fabric with a smooth, water-repellent surface. It feels a bit like oilcloth but is often softer and more flexible.

The fabric is pretty sturdy and wipes clean easily – perfect for when something gets spilled. On the inside you have the pleasant cotton, on the outside the coating protects against moisture and dirt.

Sewing it sometimes takes a little patience because the surface can stick slightly. With the right tricks, though, it works well.

Coated cotton is ideal for bags, backpacks, tablecloths or anything that has to withstand everyday use.

In short: practical, easy care and perfect for projects that can take a beating.

Links marked with * are affiliate links: If you make a purchase through them, we receive a small commission. The price remains the same for you.

Sewing a Japanese bag – this is a brilliant sewing project for beginners! Plus, this beautiful tote bag is finished in no time. In this tutorial, I will show you how it's done.

The most important things at a glance

The Japanese bag is a great sewing project for beginners
The bag is lovely and sturdy and versatile in its use
The fabric cuts for my bag measure 82x82 cm, but you can also sew the bag in any other size
Canvas or twill fabrics are particularly well-suited for sewing the Japanese bag
Sewing level: Easy
Sewing time: 45 - 60 min.

Sew your own Japanese bag the easy way

This chic shoulder bag consists of two fabric squares that are cleverly sewn together. This makes it a great sewing idea for beginners. Sewing bags is a fantastic start to the sewing hobby anyway.

But even experienced sewing enthusiasts will enjoy the Japanese bag: It is super spacious, sits comfortably against the body – and is sewn in a flash! By the way, here on SewSimple you will also find a sewing tutorial for a very simple origami market bag and a practical large fabric bag with chic corners.

So it's perfect as a quick gift! Perhaps even in combination with a romantic lotus pouch? Or with a cute small rice bag as an organizer?

After stumbling upon this beautiful, traditional bag again and again on the internet, I decided to create an illustrated tutorial for it.

The bag looks wonderful made from striped fabrics^*. They really highlight the change in direction of the fabrics.

Sturdy canvas^* or twill fabrics^* are best suited. Of course, you can also use coated fabrics^* for this bag.

I show you how to coat fabrics yourself in the DIY oilcloth tutorial.

My tip: A small bag organizer helps keep things tidy in your large bag. It’s authentic if you sew a cute Japanese Oshin pouch for it:

These materials are needed for the Japanese bag

82 x 82 cm twill fabric^* or canvas^*
82 x 82 cm lining fabric
2 x 70 cm webbing^*
Sewing thread^*
Scissors^*
Pins^*
Rotary cutter^*
Patchwork ruler^*
Marking pen^*
Cutting mat^*
Iron and ironing board
Sewing machine

Frequently asked questions

Is the sewing tutorial for the Japanese bag also suitable for beginners?

Yes, it is! With my well-illustrated and step-by-step instructions, you will sew a beautiful bag in no time!

Which fabrics are best suited for sewing the Japanese bag?

Sturdy canvas or twill fabrics are best. But you can also sew a beautiful bag with other sturdy, non-stretchy fabrics such as oilcloth or coated cotton!

How much fabric do I need to sew the Japanese bag?

My fabric cuts measure 82x82 cm, but you can also sew the bag in any other size you like.

Links marked with * are affiliate links: If you make a purchase through them, we receive a small commission. The price remains the same for you.

Sew a Japanese bag

Classic Japanese bag made of two fabric pieces – no zipper, with handles threaded through each other.

Step

Two identical bags are sewn from the outer fabric and the lining fabric.
Fold the outer fabric in half and press the fold.
Step

Mark 17 cm from the fold towards the open edge.
Repeat this on the other side.
Step

Sew along the edge from the fold to the marking.
Secure the seam.
This is what it should look like now.
Step

Mark the centre of the open fabric edge.
Hold the fabric at the markings and pull it apart so that the corners lie on top of each other.
Pin the corners together with the edges aligned.
The seam you just sewed is now in the middle.
Step

Here too, mark 17 centimetres down from the fold on both sides.
Step

Sew a straight seam from the fold to the marking.
This is what it should look like now.
Step

Pull the bag piece apart so that the seams lie exactly in the corners.
Step

Mark the corners by lining up the ruler with the seam and marking a corner 20 cm wide.
Repeat this step for all 4 corners.
Step

Sew across the corners on the marked line with a straight stitch, opening the seam allowances as you go.
Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seams. The corners are only stitched, not cut off. This stabilises the shape of the bag from the inside.
This is what it should look like now.
Step

Sew an identical bag from the second piece of fabric.
Turn the outer bag right side out.
Step

Place it right sides together into the lining bag, with the edges aligned.
Pin the corners together so they line up exactly.
Step

Mark a turning gap.
Sew all 4 corners together. Here, too, the corners are only sewn, not cut off, so that the final shape of the bag comes out nicely.
Step

Start and end each seam 1.5 cm before the inner corner. Here you can see where the seams start and end.
This leaves the inner corner unsewn for now.
We will close this seam later from the right side with a line of topstitching.
Turn the bag right side out and push out the corners.
Step

Press the corners. Press the seam allowances of the turning gap to the inside.
Pin the turning gap closed with the edges aligned.
Lay the seam allowances of the inner corners neatly on top of each other.
Step

Pin everything together well.
Edgestitch once all the way around the bag opening from the right side.
Step

This closes the turning gap and the seams of the inner corners.
Measure 3 cm inwards from the tip of the corner and mark it.
Step

Draw a line diagonally across the corner. Repeat this step for all 4 corners.
Step

Pin the webbing in place, aligned with the markings.
Sew the webbing in place with a straight stitch.
Step

Sew back and forth a few times.
Fold the webbing up towards the corner.
The tip of the corner should sit under the centre of the webbing.
Sew back and forth several times here as well.
This is what the webbing seam looks like from the lining side.
Step

Done! :)
My tip: You can also use fabric scraps and the quilt-as-you-go method to make a beautiful Japanese bag!

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About the author

Sabine

I come from Siegen-Wittgenstein, where I spent my childhood breaking in cows, jumping off haystacks and scraping a D- in needlework class.

Today, being creative feels like indescribable happiness to me – and it grows even more when I can share it with others. Since 2016 I have been celebrating my passion for sewing on this blog, and I love that sewing connects so many people.