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Threading your overlocker: Here’s how to do it easily!

08.12.2021 by Sabine Schmidt

Overlock einfädeln: So geht's ganz leicht!

Threading an overlock: the nightmare of every overlock beginner! But with my guide and the right technique, it's no problem at all. In this post, I will show you step by step how overlock threading works.


The most important things at a glance



  • In this post, I will show you how to thread an overlock
  • The essential functions are the same on all overlockers
  • In this post, you will also learn how to insert the thread cones into the overlocker
  • We will thread the upper looper, lower looper, and the needles together
  • I will give you tips and pointers on how to get the overlock threading right on the very first try
  • At the end of this post, I will show you how to thread the overlock using the knotting technique


Why is threading an overlock actually so difficult? It isn't at all. Actually, threading an overlock is quite easy! And it should be. After all, for self-sewn clothing, children's clothes, shirts, and much more, there is nothing cooler than soft overlock seams!


My theory: The bad reputation of manual threading is to blame for the fact that many beginners panic about it.


Perhaps it has to do with worrying in advance about whether it will even work. And sitting down at the machine feeling stressed and tense accordingly. With this post, I want to take away your fear of threading the overlock. Because, in reality, threading a serger (which is another name for the overlocker) is no big deal at all.


It doesn't matter whether your overlock is from Gritzner, Pfaff, Medion, W6, Singer, Juki, Bernina, Privileg, Husklock, Elna, or another manufacturer. The steps for threading a serger are always very similar. That's why this guide will certainly help you get up to speed.


We will go through threading step by step and very calmly together. So, relax first and take a look at how it works before you start with fresh energy yourself.


Let's start at the very beginning, with inserting the thread cones into the overlocker.


By the way, I show you how to thread the overlock on a machine where everything works manually. This is important so you understand the systematics. There are also overlocks that are threaded with air. This is called the Air Thread System. Just like with Babylock machines. These are the machines I usually sew on because they are incredibly easy to operate.

But that doesn't mean that affordable overlocks have to be bad. On the contrary. I also like sewing on a Juki Kirei from Nähwelt Flach*, which makes absolutely fantastic seams and is also super quiet.

Reading tip: In my detailed blog post, you will find many more tips and tricks for sewing with an overlock.

Are you still undecided and don't know if you should buy an overlock sewing machine? Then read my blog post on this topic!

YouTube threading an overlock

Quick thread change: The knotting method

For quick thread changes in between, you should also know the knotting method. Sometimes it is also called the tie-on method. You can use this when the machine is already threaded.

Honestly? Don't rely on it always being the best choice. Of course, this method works perfectly well. Nevertheless, you should know how to thread your overlocker yourself from A to Z. It gives you confidence, and you get to know your machine much better that way, too. It can always happen that a thread gets lost using the knotting method. So that you don't lose your cool, you should have threading as a Plan B in your pocket beforehand.

How does the knotting method work? The old threads are cut at the thread tree and the new cones are placed on the spool holders. Then the new threads are knotted to the ends of the old ones. Actually quite simple, if you keep a few things in mind.

First, lift the presser foot so that you can pull the threads well through the thread guides. Raising the presser foot loosens the thread tension.

Shorten the long thread ends to just before the knot. Raise the presser foot and pull the threads through the thread guides. Through the upper and lower loopers, the fine knots usually slide through without any issues.

But not through the needles. Pull the threads up to just before the needles.

When trying to pull the knot through the needles, the needles can bend. So it's better to do that by hand.

Here you cut off the knot and thread the needles. Check to see if all threads are in their thread guides and sew a test seam.


Conclusion

Threading an overlock is really not complicated if you follow a few basic rules. The most important thing is not to drive yourself totally crazy beforehand.

If you then work through the threading plan step by step in a relaxed manner and follow the correct order, nothing can possibly go wrong.

The Bernina L450, which I show in this video, I discovered at Nähwelt Flach. With the voucher code sewsimple you get 5% off your purchase there.

Let me know how you got along with this guide and if it really helped you. I look forward to your comment here below the post.

Happy simple sewing

your Sabine

Frequently asked questions

Can I thread my overlock myself even as a beginner?

Of course! All you need is a bit of time, the threading plan, and my guide. And then you can get started right away.

How does threading the overlock with the knotting method work?

With this method, the old threads of the threaded overlock are simply cut off and the new threads are knotted onto them before being pulled through the thread guide.

Links marked with * are affiliate links: If you make a purchase through them, we receive a small commission. The price remains the same for you.

Step-by-step instructions

Threading an overlock step by step

Threading an overlock isn't hard at all with the right order and a good treasure map. We'll go through it step by step: inserting the thread cones, preparation, then upper looper, lower looper, right and left needle.

Tip: Thread the yarns in the colours marked on your machine's threading diagram. That way you'll find mistakes much faster later on.

  1. Step

    Place the thread cones on the overlock

    Place the thread cone on the spool pin with the smaller opening facing up. If it sits firmly, all is well. If not, help it along with a cone holder (small cap). Then press the cone firmly onto the cap.

    If the thread doesn't run smoothly when you sew a test seam, put the cone in a thread net – so that the thread comes out of the top of the net and unwinds in a controlled way. This helps especially with smooth or slippery threads.

    The cone sits correctly when the larger opening is at the bottom and the thread unwinds from the back of the cone towards the needles.

    Place the thread cones on the overlock
  2. Step

    Preparation: machine, light, tools

    Find a quiet moment and make sure you have good light – position the lamp so that it shines straight into the machine. Keep thread snips and tweezers within reach.

    Switch off the machine and pull the thread stand (telescopic rod) all the way out. Raise the presser foot; this releases the thread tension. Turn the handwheel anticlockwise until the needles are in their highest position.

    You can thread with the presser foot raised or lowered. With the foot lowered you have more space around the needles – that's why I thread with the presser foot lowered.

    Preparation: machine, light, tools
  3. Step

    Get to know the threading diagram

    The threading diagram is usually hidden behind the looper cover – you have to fold it down anyway to get to the insides of your overlock.

    Take your time looking at the diagram. Some parts are also shown enlarged: these magnified images show exactly where and in which direction the thread runs. Think of the diagram as a treasure map – a magnificent overlock seam awaits at the end.

    There are two needles and two loopers. On many machines (e.g. the Bernina in this post) they are colour-coded. These instructions follow the blue, red, green and yellow markings.

    Get to know the threading diagram
  4. Step

    Thread the upper looper (blue thread)

    Place the blue cone on the spool pin and guide the thread over the second metal loop from the right towards the machine.

    At the top, the thread goes into the pre-tension guide. Pull it taut with both hands – like dental floss – and then draw it into the thread tension (small discs). You'll often hear a quiet click as you insert it; when you pull it out, a „bling!" – then it is seated correctly.

    From the thread tension, go to the little hook directly below the tension discs, then down to the left to the two thread guide hooks (marked for both looper colours). Insert the thread into the hooks from below.

    Now up to the thread guide on the upper looper: push the thread from bottom to top through the small metal loop (or thread it with a snail-shell-like movement). Trim the thread and use the tweezers to push it from the front through the eye of the upper looper. Lay the thread back behind the presser foot.

    Thread the upper looper (blue thread)
  5. Step

    Thread the lower looper (red thread)

    The red cone sits on the far right. The thread again runs over the thread stand, into the pre-tension guide, into the thread tension (dental floss grip!) and straight down to the first hook.

    The threads of the upper and lower looper meet at the two lower hooks. Continue to the next red-marked thread guide – thread from bottom to top through the metal loop.

    Now for the important trick: press the lower looper threading lever (with the little arrow) down. The thread guide on the lower looper then appears from the left below the needle plate. Guide the thread from the front through the metal loop – two pairs of tweezers help. Flip the lever back up without the thread slipping out.

    Finally: guide the thread from front to back through the eye of the lower looper (it looks like a pelican's beak). Lay the red thread back next to its blue colleague.

    Thread the lower looper (red thread)
  6. Step

    Thread the right needle (green thread)

    The green thread cone is second from the left. Guide the thread over the thread stand, through the pre-tension guide and the thread tension.

    Below the groove of the thread guide there's a small hook – guide the thread through it. Then go to the left under the metal hook and into the thread guide above the needles (first up, then down).

    Here too, the thread guides are colour-coded: the lower guide is for the right needle. Below you'll see two little hooks for the needle threads – take the right one.

    Directly above the needle is the needle clamp thread guide – take the right hook here too. Thread the needle and lay the green thread to the back.

    Thread the right needle (green thread)
  7. Step

    Thread the left needle (yellow thread)

    The left needle thread is threaded just like the right one, only along the yellow markings: thread stand, pre-tension guide, thread tension.

    This time, the yellow marking guides the thread over the upper take-up cover and back down through the little hook at the end of the slot.

    This time the thread goes through the left hook and through the left needle clamp thread guide. Thread the yellow thread into the left needle and pull it to the back.

    Fold up the looper cover, switch on the machine and sew a test seam. Done – hats off!

    Thread the left needle (yellow thread)
  8. Step

    Knot method for quick thread changes

    For a quick thread change in between: cut the old threads at the thread stand and place the new cones on the spool pins. Tie the new threads to the ends of the old ones.

    Raise the presser foot (this loosens the thread tension) and trim the long thread ends to just before the knot. Pull the threads through the thread path – the small knots usually slip through the upper and lower looper without any problem.

    Stop before the needles: trying to pull the knot through the needles can bend them. Cut the knot off and thread the needles by hand. Test seam – done.

    Knot method for quick thread changes

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About the author

Sabine

I come from Siegen-Wittgenstein, where I spent my childhood breaking in cows, jumping off haystacks and scraping a D- in needlework class.

Today, being creative feels like indescribable happiness to me – and it grows even more when I can share it with others. Since 2016 I have been celebrating my passion for sewing on this blog, and I love that sewing connects so many people.