Sewing patterns for plus size and curvy figures

Sewing patterns for plus-size: I will show you what you need to know about choosing sewing patterns in large sizes & give you tips on fabrics, fitting, and much more.

The most important things at a glance

• It is a matter close to my heart to develop well-fitting, flattering, and attractive sewing patterns for plus sizes
• Even though I wear curvy fashion, I want to wear beautiful, stylish, flattering, and gorgeous clothing, and I want to be able to sew it myself quite easily
• Plus-size sewing patterns demand more—and different—things than average-sized patterns
• If you are not yet familiar with a pattern, don't sew it immediately using your expensive favorite fabric; make a muslin mockup first
• Look closely at the size chart. Good patterns also include a finished garment measurement chart. You can also use this for guidance: simply measure a similar piece of clothing that fits you well. Then you can be sure that everything will fit
• Sew your new garment in your size. It will not fit (and will not look good either) if you sew it one or two sizes smaller out of vanity

I learned to sew from my mother, who was a professional tailor. Through that, I learned how difficult it is to design clothing for full figures. Or rather: to sew well-fitting, flattering, and attractive clothing for large sizes.

And that is exactly what this blog post is about: Sewing patterns for curvy fashion!

Why is it actually so hard to find sewing patterns for plus sizes?

Or rather: you do find them. And you sew them. And then you realize that the chic yoke doesn't sit under the bust, but on top of it.

Or that the waist of the jersey dress doesn't define your waist, but suddenly seems to belong to an empire-style cut that simply makes a plus-size woman look pregnant.

Sewing for plus sizes

But what is the issue with the plus-size patterns found in stores?

Quite simply: standard patterns are not adapted to the specific needs of plus-size people; they are simply graded up. But simply enlarged standard patterns just don't work for non-standard figures.

A real problem. Because it isn't just "more body": the body also has curves in places where the "norm" doesn't account for them! Surprise! :)

Plus-size patterns demand more—and different—things than average-sized patterns. It takes more courage, more professionalism, and: more creativity, too!

Sewing patterns for curves: curves need space

Why is that? It's because even people in plus sizes aren't just proportionally larger. They have fuller legs, more pronounced hips, more bust, or a belly. The arms are sturdier, and the bottom is more prominent. And this isn't evenly distributed, but varies quite individually.

The question is: are they allowed to be like that?

The fashion industry and pattern makers say: NO.

Please be such that you fit into our scheme.

And the plus-size people?

They say: Not a chance!

Exactly! Even though I wear plus size, I want to wear beautiful, stylish, flattering, and gorgeous clothing. And not just that: I want to be able to sew it myself quite easily.

And the bottom? Absolutely!

Recently, I sent one of my sewing patterns to a sewing friend to see what she thought of it. After a while, she contacted me, quite agitated, and asked: "The back of the top is longer and wider than the front. That CAN'T be right, can it?!"

Yes. It is right.

If you have sewn using SewSimple patterns before, you might have noticed the same thing if you were sewing in the plus-size range.

The back of my patterns is indeed slightly wider and longer in the higher size segment than the front.

This is because full figures are curved. And where a pattern runs over a curve, it loses length and width. This length and width must be compensated for. We do this by adjusting the patterns accordingly as they get larger.

Sewing a muslin: more circumference, more fabric

One thing is clear: for size 60, you need significantly more fabric than for size 34. Fabric shopping alone is financially different.

My tip: if you are not yet familiar with a pattern, don't sew it immediately using your expensive favorite fabric; make a muslin mockup first.

What is a muslin mockup? A test piece made from inexpensive unbleached woven fabric, called muslin fabric^*. I buy muslin in bulk cheaply and always have a few meters on hand to test new sewing dreams.

My tip: I wash and iron the muslin fabric right after I buy it. That way, I can start immediately when I come across a beautiful plus-size pattern!

What is good about a muslin mockup?

A muslin mockup pays off in several ways:

• I can try the pattern on the dress form and mark changes directly on the fabric
• Afterward, I transfer the changes to the sewing pattern and have a custom-fitted pattern
• I get an idea of whether the style really suits me
• I can practice the sewing techniques required for the new pattern
• I also don't waste expensive fabric if I make a mistake; that saves me a lot of trouble
• When I subsequently cut the plus-size pattern out of "real" fabric, I am much less nervous because I can be sure that everything will work out
• I can subsequently use the muslin mockup as lining fabric for small bags or organizers
• Or I can alter and adjust it as I please and then dye it in a bright color: muslin takes dye very well, whether tie-dyeing or dyeing in the washing machine

My alter ego: plus-size dress form

Since I often and gladly sew my own clothes, I also have a dress form. For a long time, I considered dress forms more of a decorative element than a true savior in need.

Far from it! I now have a dress form^* in my size that has my exact measurements and is just as full in the "right" places as I am. Naturally, it had standard measurements when I first got it.

But that changed quickly. I treated it to a bra in my size and padded it in the right places. :)

Now we wear the same size, and I can wonderfully pin hems on it as well. It doesn't even object when I occasionally prick it with a pin.

Plus-size sewing patterns: bust darts are important!

Most of my women's patterns have bust darts. In the Faye blouse, they are skillfully "integrated" so that they don't even need to be adjusted.

For Shirt Santje or Dress Roosmarei, however, I opted for classic side-seam bust darts.

I am occasionally asked if one can move the dart higher or lower, or enlarge it.

The larger the pattern, the larger the darts. So, the cups grow along with the size here as well.

If your bust sits a bit higher or lower, you can help yourself as follows:

Trace the outline of the dart.

Determine the height from the shoulder down where the fullest point of your bust is. This is where the tip of the dart ends. Simple, right?

And in no time at all, you have a pattern made just for you that fits fantastically!

Fabric selection: which fabrics for plus sizes?

Basically, for plus sizes, I would always recommend flowing fabrics that don't add bulk. And above all: don't cling. If you want to sew with knit fabrics, viscose jerseys^*, for example, are excellent. They have the wonderful property of draping heavier and smoother than pure cotton jersey fabrics^*.

For blouses, silk, viscose, or linen blends are fantastic. In the picture above, you can see the Faye blouse in a cool, flowing, and very comfortable linen-viscose blend^* that I am totally in love with.

Cotton satin fabrics with a small touch of elastane are also very suitable. The cotton satin^* ensures good mobility if the design is meant to be more form-fitting.

Festive options include lace fabrics^*, which are suitable for beautiful tunics worn with camisole tops underneath. They are airy, show a bit of skin, but leave you looking "dressed" overall. That can look very sexy!

If you want to work with cotton jerseys or sweatshirting, you can fall back on patterns designed specifically not to cling to curves. An example of this is my tunic Tomris, which runs in a slight A-line at the torso and makes the shoulders look slim.

You can find even more information, tips, and advice in my post Which fabric for what?

For jackets, boiled wool^*, for example, is a good choice, as it can be processed as a single layer and has a beautiful drape.

You can conjure up my Lovis jacket from boiled wool^*, softshell^*, oilskin^*, or loden. In Lovis, too, the darts are integrated—specifically vertically! This makes sewing easy for you and emphasizes the figure without constricting you.

Sewing pants in plus sizes

Pant patterns are often not really well-adapted to the requirements of plus sizes. Simply enlarging them is not a solution here either. Because usually, it's not just the hips that are somewhat larger, but also the legs and calves.

That is why I came up with the Magenta pants, which work magnificently in plus sizes. And they do so in several ways:

• They have a comfortable elastic waistband but don't add bulk at the hips; alternatively, you can sew the pants with a drawstring.
• They have patch pockets that also don't add bulk.
• They have straight-cut legs that work great as Marlene-style pants; alternatively, you can sew them with cuffs as yoga pants or with elastic at the ankle as harem pants.
• They are cut high-waisted and prevent "muffin tops". ;)
• You can sew them using both elastic and non-elastic fabrics.

Sewing a simple T-shirt for curvey

Such a simple T-shirt brings it to light! Whether a pattern really fits or not, whether the outfit works: the shirt makes the decisive difference!

And so that you can conjure up your favorite shirt for the perfect outfit "just like that," I came up with the Mirabell pattern.

The pattern not only fits magnificently, but it can also be wonderfully adapted with different sleeve lengths. You can, of course, also turn the shirt into a stylish tunic by lengthening the torso.

Style tips for curvy figures

The bra makes the outfit

The secret to well-fitting tops is a well-fitting bra with a firm underbust band. Once you have found that, your wardrobe will fit well almost by itself. Often, it is a specific brand that makes you look particularly good. When you have found "your" brand: stick with it. Because bodies change, you should measure yourself at intervals and ensure that the size and fit are still correct. There are bra fitters who can help you with this. Online, for example, you can find competent help at Busenfreundinnen.

The camisole, your friend and helper

Do not underestimate the effect of a good, gliding camisole under your top. Materials like slinky, silk, or viscose are ideal for such shirts because they ensure that even a fitted garment slides over your curves. The camisole should sit close to your body.

In addition to the gliding properties, a camisole also smooths out curves and little rolls, covers up bulges, and hides unevenness.

Plus size patterns: Anything but boring!

What is fashion for curvy figures allowed to be? Anything! Just not boring! Dare to wear sewing patterns that you like.

You don't have to be a wallflower just because you don't fit the norm. Striped shirts, extravagant color combinations, or funny sewing patterns: everything is allowed as long as it's fun and you feel comfortable!

Plus size sewing patterns: Dare to take up space

Even if it takes some overcoming. Don't sew a smaller size just because you might fit into it eventually. Look closely at the size chart. Good sewing patterns also have a finished garment size chart. You can also use that as a guide: simply measure a similar, well-fitting piece of clothing. Then you can be sure that everything will fit.

Sew your new garment in your actual size. It won't sit right (and won't look good) if you sew it one or two sizes smaller out of vanity. Claim the space you deserve. And don't make yourself smaller than you are.

Blog reader Melanie writes about this:

I love your patterns because they are totally inclusive due to the huge size range. I can use the same pattern for my delicate 16-year-old daughter, my charming 25-year-old neighbor who wants to learn to sew, or for myself as a 45-year-old, established woman. Your patterns are great as they are, but are also a great basis for your own "sewing pattern experiments".

I think your thoughts on International Women's Day are great and would just like to add a few ideas.
For me, sewing is a great piece of self-empowerment. I don't have to wear what others consider "appropriate" or "attractive".
I can wear clothing that adapts to my body and I don't have to adapt my body to "average measurements".
I can let my creativity run wild through sewing and express it through my clothes.
And most importantly for me: I am worth wearing clothes that were made with love and care, that were created only for me and only by me. So, sewing is also self-love for me.

Those are important reasons for me, especially on this day. What I like so much about the "sewing scene" is this atmosphere of recognition and appreciation, especially of individuality. It's a lot about sharing. On one hand knowledge, and on the other hand the joy of the finished piece. We inspire each other and enjoy each other. That is an attitude we need more of overall.

With very warm greetings,
Melanie

Did my tips help you?

Feel free to leave me a comment if you like!

Be sure to also read my 12 Golden Rules for new sewing patterns and save yourself time & nerves from now on! :)

Happy curvy sewing,

yours, Sabine

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