12 Golden Rules for New Sewing Patterns

12 golden rules for new sewing patterns: This post will help you find the right pattern for your personal style and capabilities.

So many sewing patterns, so many possibilities to sew great things! But which one is right for me? I get to the bottom of this question in this post and help you make the right decisions with a few simple questions!

I have already been asked about the heart-shaped pins several times on Instagram. I got them in the USA. I normally don't think much of such "gimmicks," but these (they are by Dritz) are extremely good. Very firm, sharp, 6 cm long, and equipped with a very easy-to-grip heart head that makes it simple to handle the pins.

Honestly, these are probably the best pins I have ever had. That's why I bought the chic pincushion you see above especially for them. Everything should be nice and "tone on tone."

But back to the pins^*. You can also find them here in Germany if you search long enough, or alternatively even in pearl white^*, which I also really like.

But now, let's get down to business:

Sew your style, not just clothes!

Ask yourself beforehand: Does this pattern match my style?

Not everything others wear automatically has to be your style! And not everything that is trendy is great for you. If you don't know what your style is, take a look at photos of yourself. What do you look best in? Which colors suit you? And what are you drawn to thematically? Are you the romantic type, suited by ruffles and floral fabrics? Or do you love it pure and minimalist in a Japanese look? Do you think eco-fashion is great and love wearing pinafore dresses and striped leggings? Do sporty outfits like joggers suit you, or do you love Marlene trousers?

Take your time and feel free to try something out, including your choice of color.

It's no secret that some colors make you look radiant and wonderful, while others make you look 10 years older instantly.

My secret tip: Hold the back of your hand up to the bolt of fabric in daylight. If the color looks natural and suits your skin tone well, you're halfway there!

Once is never

Do I want to sew this pattern more than once?

Honestly: You rarely buy patterns because you only want to sew them once, right? It's especially when sewing the first time that you discover the possibilities and variations the pattern offers, isn't it? At least that's how it is for me. While I'm sewing and crafting, I think about which fabric combination I would like, how I can modify the pattern, and which piece of clothing I want to wear the new item with.

Before the first garment is finished, I'm already in the mood to sew the next one. It's magic! ;)

And at that exact moment, the decision is made as to whether it will be an evergreen or remain a flash in the pan.

Variation is a must

Can the sewing pattern be modified? Does it perhaps even include variations like long, short, or 3/4 sleeves and different hems? Is a free add-on (i.e., an additional part) offered? I did this, for example, for Tunic Tomris, Shirt Santje, and Dress Roosmarei. I designed a cool hood for these three patterns that can be easily inserted into the neckline instead of the facing.

Since it is especially important to me that you can (and want to!) wear my patterns all year round, I offer almost all patterns with variations. My trousers pattern Magenta, for example, includes, in addition to the long version, the option to sew the trousers as capris or Bermuda shorts. And that up to size 60.

Know (and use!) your skills

Which sewing techniques do I need to master? Is this pattern just about sewing in a straight line (and maybe a bit of zigzag), or do I need to be able to do things like flat-felled seams, buttonholes, and hidden zippers?

Often, finished patterns look so wonderful that you buy them immediately. And when you look closely: Oh, princess seams! How do those work? Gathering? I've never done that! So then: Better not!

That's how it happens that some beautiful patterns never get sewn and disappear into obscurity.

By the way, it is especially important to me for my patterns that you don't need to master complicated sewing techniques. It is important to me that even sewing beginners can sew beautiful garments with my eBooks and feel completely comfortable in them.

Check the accessories list

Do I have everything I need to sew?

A good eBook contains, in addition to the pattern and instructions, a note on which sewing notions^* are necessary. Before you start, you should briefly check if you have everything ready or if you might need to purchase a special item. It can be a bit annoying if you buy expensive notions and then perhaps only use them once.

So it's not a bad idea to quickly do a cost-benefit analysis beforehand. Otherwise, your new garment could potentially end up costing you dearly.

No compromises on fabric selection

Can the pattern be sewn from my favorite fabrics?

You have them, your personal favorites. Be it a flowing viscose-linen blend^* (which I prefer for blouses, for example, because it combines the comfortable wearing properties of viscose with the coolness of linen) or a robust stretch denim^*, from which a thousand and one sewing projects can be conjured: there are simply materials that feel particularly good and that you would love to wear around the clock.

Important to know, then, when you have your eye on a new pattern: Can you conjure the pattern from your preferred materials, or are you tied to a specific type of fabric?

Take care instructions seriously

How can the garment be washed/cared for?

Some fabrics just look beautiful. But can they also be washed in the washing machine? Is the silk, faux leather, or fine georgette fabric only hand-washable? And do I really want that?

If a garment cannot be washed or dried/ironed well, that can be a reason why you won't want to wear the item at all—because you want to avoid the subsequent washing procedure.

Better to check the label one extra time beforehand to see if the fabric will make things particularly difficult for you. At Stoffe-Hemmers^*, for example, you will always find the care instructions right next to the photo, in addition to the details and description of a fabric. That has helped me very often because it just provides certainty to know how I need to handle a fabric.

Design fabric works differently

Do I need more fabric for fabric with directional patterns?

With many patterns, you can simply cut the pattern pieces along the grain line, regardless of whether it's "upside down" or not. With patterned fabrics, however, that doesn't work. Or: not always.

Why don't designers tell you how much fabric you need for design fabrics? Because patterns have different repeats. The repeat is the distance at which a pattern repeats itself. So, you can never predict beforehand how much fabric will be needed, especially because fabric bolts do not have a uniform width.

If you want to sew such a pattern fabric, prepare the pattern pieces, pack them up, and drive to your favorite fabric store. There, you can arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric on-site and have the required amount cut for you. This way, you are definitely on the safe side!

Keep your wardrobe in mind

Which items from my existing wardrobe go with it?

Sometimes you find that you hardly ever wear a self-sewn item. How does that happen, actually? Often it is because there is no real combination partner for the piece in the closet, at least not one that fits perfectly in style and comfort.

Perhaps consider beforehand which item from your collection you would like to combine your new IT piece with. And which color ideally suits what.

And even if it is incredibly fun to sew design fabrics: please consider whether a vibrant gray or black isn't also a good and versatile choice. :)

By the way: Be sure to also read my tips on sewing patterns for plus-size and oversized figures!

Do I need matching shoes for it?

Or rather: Do I want to buy matching shoes for it? Some tops or skirts are worth buying a pair of matching shoes or boots for. Especially if it's a favorite pattern, this purchase is worth it. A skirt is sewn quickly: if you then have the matching pair of boots or Chelsea boots ready, everything is actually quite simple.

By the way, it is a good strategy if the color of a garment is repeated somewhere in the outfit. For example, if the yellow of a shirt can be found in the shoes. Or if the blue of a pair of trousers appears again in the pattern of the blouse. That immediately creates a cohesive overall picture.

Better classic than modern

Will I still like the piece next year?

We all know it from Facebook sewing groups: there is always a style or a pattern that is totally hyped. Two months later, no one cares about it anymore. Because it might be ruffled or completely exaggerated, way too colorful, or simply didn't fit well. Or was simply so fashionable that it only held validity for a few months.

Consider carefully whether that is your style. You invest a lot of time, money, and work into your sewing projects. Do you really want to only be able to wear them for gardening next year? A shame, isn't it?

Be a queen, not Cinderella!

Do I feel good when I wear this pattern?

Does the pattern flatter my figure, does it highlight my best assets? And does it smooth away small bulges? There are patterns that are extremely flattering to the figure. And these are the patterns to find, secure, and sew again and again in all variations and colors! Once you have found this one pattern for yourself, it is the foundation of your wardrobe. You can build everything else on that.

Usually, this item is a shirt, a tunic, or a blouse that can be worn all year round. In summer, perhaps made of cool modal jersey^*, in winter made of warming sweatshirt fabric^* or knit fabrics^*.

The most important criterion of all when it comes to clothing: you should feel like a queen in it. If you feel like Cinderella instead: better keep your hands off and look for another pattern! :)

Feel free to tell me about your experiences with new sewing patterns in the comments if you'd like!

Happy simple sewing,

your Sabine