English sewing terms translated: It’s not that easy! With my help, you’ll be able to navigate your way through English-language sewing patterns with ease in the future!
It often starts with the word "sewing" itself. Some sewing fans actually say "suing" or "sjuing." Needless to say, it’s pronounced "sou-ing." It is called "Sew Simple," after all! ;)
Translating English sewing terms
But of course, there is much more that is worth knowing. When you look at the list of English sewing vocabulary, you will notice that the English-speaking sewing world is a little different from ours.
This certainly has its advantages. I have previously shared some information about the background of quilting and the sewing accessories used for it elsewhere.
A
Absorbent: Material that has the property of absorbing moisture.
Acetate: Shimmering, fine fabric that dries quickly and does not shrink. Can be used for techniques like pizza technique, for example, because high ironing temperatures will cause it to melt.
Acrylic: Synthetic fiber. Does not shrink, dries quickly, barely wrinkles, and should not be ironed.
Adaptor: A holder on the sewing machine used to swap presser feet quickly and easily.
A-Line: An A-line shaped garment, e.g., a tunic, skirt, or dress. A-line means that the garment widens in a straight line toward the bottom.
Alter/Alteration: Making changes to patterns and garments. "To alter" is the verb, "alteration" is the noun.
Apparel: Clothing; do you already know the cool clothing patterns from SewSimple?
Applique: An application created, for example, by sewing a small piece of fabric onto a larger one. Often, the applique is sewn with a narrowly folded hem. This is especially common in quilting and patchwork. Afterward, a blind stitch is usually used to secure the applique. Occasionally, raw-edge appliques are sewn on with a satin stitch. Appliques made of jersey can also be processed without a finishing stitch or hem, as they do not fray.
Applique (reverse applique/back applique): This applique method creates a clean fabric edge by sewing the applique itself onto a second piece of fabric. A small turning hole is cut into the center of the backing fabric. Then, it is turned, pressed, and sewn on (usually by hand or with a blind stitch). By the way, you can also use this technique to sew a clever peek-a-boo hole!
Arrow/Arrowhead stitch: A decorative stitch that runs in the direction of the arrow; usually sewn by hand.
Armscye: The armhole, the counterpart for a sleeve that is to be inserted into a garment.
Awl: An awl is a practical sewing aid with many uses. You can use it, for example, to adjust fabric near the presser foot, to shape corners, or to hold bias tape in place. My awl has a soft, ergonomic silicone handle and a rounded metal tip that glides well on the fabric.
B
Baby hem: A very narrow double-folded hem, often used for chiffon fabrics.
Babydoll length: A top length that reaches to the mid-hip.
Backing: This refers to the back of a quilt. Often, "coordinating fabrics"—fabrics that match the quilt top—are used. Sometimes, the back consists of simple fleece, minky fabrics, or soft flannel.
Backstitch/Back tacking: Securing the start and end of a seam by sewing a few stitches forward and backward.
Ballerina neckline: A wide, round neckline.
Ballpoint needle: A sewing machine needle with a rounded tip, suitable for knit fabrics as it penetrates the fabric without damaging the fibers.
Bar tack: Refers to a bar tack: a series of stitches used, for example, to protect the opening of a pocket from tearing. A narrow zigzag stitch can be used here.
Baste/basting: Basting is a technique where layers of fabric are joined together using loosely twisted basting thread to prevent slipping. After basting, the actual sewing is performed, and then the basting thread is removed.
Batiste: Light to medium-weight cotton fabric that can be used for blouses, dresses, or baby accessories.
Batting: Filling material, which can consist of cotton, wool, synthetic, or other materials. In England, it is called "wadding." It means the same thing. :)
Bearding: Comes from the quilting area and refers to the small fibers of the batting that can peek through the seam during quilting. This is especially unsightly when a light batting is used with dark fabric.
Beeswax: Beeswax, which can be used to prepare threads for threading. Greasing with beeswax (you can also use lip balm, by the way!) makes the thread firmer and prevents the end from fraying.
Bell Sleeve: Flared sleeves that are tighter at the upper arm and fall wide at the wrist, like on my Hoodie Pepper.
Bias: Fabric strips cut diagonally to the selvage. This creates a fabric cut that stretches elastically around curves.
Bias tape: Bias tape. Diagonally cut fabric strips that are folded inwards once or twice. They are used for finishing edges, binding, and accentuating striking areas. You can also easily make bias tape yourself.
Binding (blanket, quilt, seam etc.): Edging a sewing project with fabric strips or bias tape. The raw fabric edges are encased. This can be done with fabric strips cut lengthwise, at a right angle, or diagonally to the grain.
Bishop Sleeve: Corresponds to a trumpet sleeve but is sewn with a cuff.
Blade: Cutting edge of scissors, a knife, or a rotary cutter.
Blanket stitch: A hand or sewing machine stitch used to finish raw edges with a wide stitch. Often seen on blankets, coats, and other projects made from bulky fabrics.
Bleed/ing: Running of color.
Blend: Composition of a fabric. For example, cotton, elastane, synthetic fibers, linen, or other materials can be used here.
Blind hem stitch: A hem sewn with a blind stitch (hand or machine).
Block: A unit, a part of a quilt or patchwork piece that shows a specific pattern. A quilt consists of several blocks.
Boatneck: Boat neckline
Bobbin: Bobbin
Bobbin case: The case into which the bobbin is inserted.
Bodice: Bodice
Bodkin: A turning tool used to turn a sewn tube or to thread elastic through a casing. Can be long or short, and made of metal, silicone, or plastic.
Bolt: Fabric bolt, around which fabric is wound or folded. Makes stacking fabrics easier, as cards of the same size can be used to create a uniform stack.
Bond/Bonding: Two pieces of fabric joined together with fabric glue or similar.
Boning: Plastic or metal stays that are inserted into designated fabric channels in a bodice. They stabilize the shape of the bodice and are more likely found in historical costumes, sometimes also in wedding dresses.
Bootcut: Pants that are slim at the thigh and flare out toward the ankle.
Border: Border, a printed pattern running along only one side of the fabric, which can be processed accordingly. Often used for skirts or dresses.
Box Corner: A method used to create volume and a bottom for a two-dimensional bag. The corners are folded apart and stitched down.
Box Pleats: A pleat technique, e.g., used for wide skirts or pants. The fabric is folded inward from both sides to create a voluminous pleat.
Buckle: Buckle
Buckram: A stiff, woven material* used to reinforce hats or bags.
Burnout: Burnout design, fabric that receives a transparent pattern through the use of chemicals.
Busk: Hook and eye of a bra closure.
Bust line: Bust measurement taken at the widest point.
Butting: Joining two fabric edges together without overlapping.
Buttonhole: Buttonhole
Buttonhole cutter: Special buttonhole cutter.*
C
Calico: Simple, often floral or finely patterned cotton fabric, mostly used for patchwork or quilting.
Carrier: Loop; can be attached directly during sewing. Often consists of bias tape or ribbon.
Capped Sleeve: Short sleeve
Casing: Casing
Catch Stitch: Blind stitch used to invisibly secure hems, for example.
Chalk: Tailor's chalk; learn everything about marking fabrics in my blog post on this topic.
Challis: Fine, soft, flowing fabric* that can consist of various materials and compositions, often containing viscose. Great for dresses, skirts, blouses, or palazzo pants.
Chenille: Chenille fabric
Chicken scratch: A method where embroidery is performed on two-tone checkered fabric.
Chopsticks: Chopsticks are found in Asian restaurants... ;) They are great for shaping corners and seams.
Clasp: Kiss-lock clasp*, used for example for small bags or coin purses.
Clean finish: Edge finishing (e.g., with a zigzag stitch or a hem).
Clip (curve): Snip curves with scissors up to just before the seam, so the seam lies flat after turning.
Closure: Fastener, e.g., a Loxx fastener*
Colorfast: Colorfast
Cording: Cord, rope
Count: Indication of how heavy a fabric is. The unit is always grams per square meter. It is always indicated by good online shops* so that you always select the same fabric quality when combining different colors.
Cut: Cut
Crease: Crease
Crocking: When a fabric rubs off onto another. A common problem with quilts made of light and dark fabrics.
Cropped: Shortened, e.g., cut-off jeans.
Cutting line: The line on the pattern along which the fabric is cut. It lies outside the seam line.
D
Dart: Dart
Dolman: A type of kimono sleeve.
Drape: Draping: With this technique, where fabric is hung on a dress form, for example, you can find out how a fabric falls. Learn how I use my dress form* and adapt it to my needs in my blog post about patterns for plus-sizes.
D Ring: D-ring*
Drop/ped waist: A waistline that sits below the natural waist level.
Duct Tape Double (DTD): A homemade dress form created using duct tape and a lot of patience.
E
Ease: To ease (fitting a larger fabric piece into a smaller one)
Edgestitch: Topstitching along the edge
Embellish: To add decorative elements, to decorate.
Entredeux: A French term meaning "between two." Refers to joining two materials with a third piece.
Epaulette: Sequin (note: usually "epaulet" in sewing context, but translated here based on original text usage)
F
Fabric: Fabric
Fabricisms: Sayings about fabric addiction & Co.
Facing: Sewing a facing
Fat quarter: An American measurement; a piece of fabric* measuring approx. 50 x 55 cm.
Feed dog: Feed dog
Finger press/ing: Pressing a fold in the fabric using your fingers. Works especially well with starched woven cotton fabrics.
Finish (an edge): To finish a fabric edge.
Foot Pedal: Foot pedal
Frame Quilting: Quilting work clamped into a fixed frame before quilting. Prevents layers of fabric from shifting.
Free motion: Free-motion embroidery; can be done easily with a standard household sewing machine and looks great.
French knot: French knot, often used in embroidery.
French seam: French seam
Fusible fleece: Iron-on fusible batting, e.g., Vlieseline H630*
Fusible woven interfacing: Iron-on woven interfacing, usually cotton. Gives fabric wonderful body and stability; you can order woven interfacing here*.
Fusing: Interfacing/reinforcing
G
Garment: Garments
Garter Grips: Garter clips. Consist of a loop and a button over which the fabric is secured.
Gather: To gather
Give: Elasticity; when fabrics have a bit of stretch.
Grading (seams): Trimming seam allowances to reduce bulk.
Grain: Grainline; usually marked with an arrow on patterns.
Grommet: Eyelet, e.g., finished with a satin stitch.
Guild (sewing, quilting): A sewing or quilting circle; in the US, sewing enthusiasts often meet to sew for charity.
H
Hem: Hem
Hong Kong finish: Hong Kong seam finish, a clean-looking seam allowance solution suitable for delicate and sheer tops and pants.
Hook & eye: Bra closure
I
Inseam: Inseam
Interfacing: Interfacing, used to reinforce waistbands, pocket flaps, or collars.
Interlining: Warm lining/interlining
Iron: Iron
Ironing: Ironing
J
Jean: Jeans, denim
K
Knot: Knot
L
Lettuce: Lettuce edge, rolled hem
Lining: Lining
M
Machine embroidery: Decorative stitches using a sewing machine
to match: To match
Medium weight interfacing: Medium-weight iron-on interfacing, e.g., for collars or flap pockets; corresponds to e.g., Vlieseline H180*
Miter: A technique used to create clean corners on pockets, etc., by aligning the side seam with the bottom seam.
Muslin: Muslin, usually a multi-layered woven fabric whose layers are joined at points. Read more about sewing with muslin here.
N
Nap: The direction of the pile in fabrics like nicky or velvet.
Needle: Needle
New York Hem: Also called a "super hem." Used to shorten jeans while keeping the original hem. How-to: Fold the hem up right-sides together and sew underneath the original hem. Trim excess fabric and topstitch the hem all around.
Notch: Notch; a small mark made with scissors within the seam allowance.
Notions: Sewing notions
O
Overlocker: Overlock machine
Overcasting, overstiching: Unfolding a finished seam and enclosing the seam allowances with an overcast stitch.
P
Pattern weights: Pattern weights (you can even make them yourself!)
Pencil skirt: Pencil skirt
Peter Pan collar: Peter Pan collar
Pile: Pile; fabrics with a looped surface like chenille or terry cloth.
Pins: Straight pins (read my big straight pin test report here)
Pincushion: Pincushion; did you know you can sew your own pincushion?
Pintuck: Pintucks
Piping: Piping (read more about sewing piping here)
Pivot: Leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot, rotate the fabric 45 degrees, lower the presser foot, continue sewing.
Placket: A small, finished V-shaped slit in a sleeve hem, providing more width.
Pleat: Pleat
Press: Pressing with pressure
Presser foot: Presser foot
Prewashing/preshrinking: Prewashing the fabric
Prick stitch: A variation of the blind stitch, invisible from the right side of the fabric.
Q
Quilting: Sewing together several layers of fabric; read everything about quilting here!
R
Ravel/Ravelling: Fraying, can sometimes lead to desired effects.
Raw (edge): An unfinished fabric edge
Reinforce: Reinforcing fabrics; read everything about reinforcing fabrics here
Rick Rack: Rickrack*; great for adding a vintage charm to sewing projects
Rigiline: Firm yet flexible interfacing
Right side: Right side of the fabric, "pretty side"
Rivet: Rivets, e.g., for decoration or reinforcing seams
Rolled hem: Rolled hem
Rotary cutter: Rotary cutter
RST: Right sides together; the right sides of the fabric are touching.
Ruching: Gathering a hem to give it more volume or structure.
Running stitch: Running stitch
S
Satin stitch: Satin stitch, a narrow zigzag
Scissors: Scissors (read everything about sewing scissors here)
Scraps: Fabric scraps
Seam: Seam
Seam allowance: Seam allowance
Seam guides: Markings on the throat plate providing orientation
Seam ripper: Seam ripper
Selvage: Selvage; can provide info about various details; also read my blog post about the markings on selvages
Separating zipper: Separating zipper
Serger: Serger/Overlocker
Shank button: A button with a small loop on the back that creates space between the button itself and the fabric.
Sizing: Stiffening a finished garment with spray starch
Sleeve: Sleeve
Sleeve, capped: Short, often cut-on sleeve
Slide Clasp: Slide clasp
Sloper: Muslin/Toile
Snap: Two-piece clip closure
Snips: Thread snips*
SNTS: Single needle top stitching: Means topstitching with a simple straight stitch
Spool: Thread spool
Stay stitch: Stabilizing stitch that ensures the final hem sits correctly.
Stay tape: Stay tape*
Stitch in the ditch: Stitching in the seam line; used in quilting and patchwork.
Stitch length: Stitch length
T
Tack: Baste (with a basting stitch)
Tailor's tack: Tailor's tack: Used, for example, to mark areas on a garment. It is not knotted but pulled out after the hem is finished.
Tape or Tape Measure: Measuring tape
Tension: Thread tension
Thread: Thread
Top stitch: Topstitching a finished hem
Tracing paper: Tracing paper; read more about copying patterns here
Tracing wheel: Tracing wheel
Trim: To trim or cut back, but also to decorate and embellish.
Tuck: Pintuck
Turn: To turn (through a turning opening, for example)
U
Underlining: Reinforcing a fabric
Understitching: Topstitching from the right side, catching the seam allowance
Universal needle: Universal needle
View: Different pattern variations
W
Wadding: See Batting
Waist: Waist; often important for determining the correct size of a pattern
Walking Foot: Walking foot
Warp: Grainline parallel to the selvage
Webbing: Webbing
Welt: A type of piped pocket, e.g., as a back pocket on pants
Whipstitch: A simple stitch to join two layers of fabric.
Wing needle: Special sewing machine needle with a widened shaft that punches holes in the fabric. Used for embroidering batiste and other fine fabrics.
Wrong side: The back side of the fabric
WST: Wrong sides together; both wrong sides are facing each other.
X
Y
Yoke: Yoke, as on our Blouse FAYE
Z
Zip: British term for zipper
Zipper: American term for zipper
Zig zag: Zigzag stitch
Did this post help you?
Then I would love to see a comment!
Happy simple sewing,
your Sabine
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