Free cutting is a special patchwork technique that allows you to cut fabrics freehand. In this guide, you will also receive tips and information for successful Improv Quilting.
The most important things at a glance
- You will learn the difference between the free cutting technique and "normal" patchwork made from pattern blocks
- I will show you which projects you can sew using Improv Quilting
- You will receive information on which fabrics and tools you should have ready to start
- I will introduce you to 2 free cutting techniques in more detail, namely cutting strips and curves
- You will learn why the "carpet cut" is helpful and I will show you how it works
- Sewing level: easy
- Sewing time: 1-2 hours
What is free cutting?
Free cutting is a patchwork technique, sometimes also called Improv Quilting. It involves cutting fabric pieces and strips freehand with a rotary cutter. This results in arbitrary patchwork elements with a natural feel and an individual look.
- Throw plans overboard: Free cutting helps you listen to your inner sewing idea. You cut fabrics without planning and let yourself be guided by the flow
- Choose fabrics by color, pattern, or texture: There are no rules here, only what feels right in your creative mind
- Say goodbye to straight lines: Irregular shapes are the star here; they provide momentum and movement to the design
- Scrap recycling: Sew your fabric scraps together into a colorful collage
- Visible seams: Seams are also allowed to be visible here. They add extra texture and dimension and show that this is handmade
- Experiments allowed: Try out other techniques like appliqué or folding to give your quilt its own flair
- As individual as you are: Every improv quilt bears its own signature. This means you are creating a unique piece of patchwork
Unlike, for example, Reversible Quilting, where fabric pieces are cut precisely, Improv Quilting—the free cutting technique—gives you the opportunity to let your imagination run wild. You can simply follow your intuition and thereby create unique patchwork projects.
Recommended reading: English Paper Piecing for beginners
YouTube tutorial: Free cutting
How does Improv Quilting differ from the classic quilt block?
Quilt blocks and Improv quilting are two different approaches to patchwork and quilting.
Here are the main differences:
A quilt block is a traditional patchwork technique where fabric pieces are precisely cut and sewn to form geometric patterns like squares, triangles, and rectangles.
They are often made according to predefined patterns and templates. These patterns can be complex and require careful measuring, cutting, and sewing to ensure the blocks fit together perfectly.
In a quilt, either identical quilt blocks are sewn together according to a specific arrangement, or different quilt blocks are joined together to match your color scheme.
Quilt blocks represent the structured side of patchwork, where precision and pattern are the focus.
In the picture, you see the Jacob's Ladder in scrappy style. If you want to know how it's sewn, read the article: Sewing Jacob's Ladder from squares and triangles.
Quilt blocks and Improv quilting are two different approaches to patchwork and quilting.
On the other hand, we have Improv quilting—the free and creative approach to sewing. It's not about accuracy here, but about curves, unexpected turns, and the courage to sew against the current.
The choice between these two approaches is as individual as the decision of whether or not to color-coordinate your socks with the rest of your outfit in the morning. Some love the precision of quilt blocks. Others prefer Improv quilting.
And then there are the quilters who combine the best of both worlds. Why not add a free, improv border to a precise quilt block?
Regardless of whether you choose order or chaos, in the end, the quilt just needs to please you.
Which projects can I sew with Improv Quilting?
Projects that are well-suited for Improv quilting:
- Sew a quilt: The most obvious use is improvised quilts in various sizes and shapes, from baby quilts to king-size bed quilts. Or you can sew blankets and throws to put on your sofa.
- Sew wall decor: You can create artistic wall hangings that decorate your home.
- Sew a pillowcase: Free cutting is excellent for designing custom pillowcases. Combine different patterns and colors, and you have a great decorative pillow for your home or a special gift for friends and family. You can learn how to sew a pillow with a zipper or with the easy-peasy envelope closure in our posts.
- Sew a table runner: You can give your dining table a special touch with a table runner featuring improvised patterns and colors.
- Sew placemats: Create original placemats for your table decor.
- Sew a bag: Individual bags and pouches with improvised patchwork designs are perfect projects because the fabric is inherently stable due to the many seams. With our free tutorial, you can, for example, sew a mega stylish hexagon bag
- Sew clothing: You can sew unique pieces of clothing, such as a cardigan, a jacket, or a skirt.
- Accessories: Improv quilting can also be used to make accessories. With this technique, you can sew a beanie, a chic infinity scarf, or a baby bandana bib.
Free cutting is a great way to create projects with a personal signature and individual character while simultaneously expanding your sewing skills.
Which fabrics can I use for free cutting or Improv quilting?
- Cotton woven fabric*: Of course, the classic cotton is easy to handle and comes in an almost endless variety of colors and patterns. Perfect for Improv quilting.
- Linen fabrics*: If you want to give your quilts a rustic touch, linen is the choice. Combine it with other fabric types for a fascinating contrast.
- Silk and Viscose*: For a touch of luxury in your Improv quilt, viscose or silk are a good option. With their shiny appearance and smooth surface, they provide elegance.
- Wool fabrics*: If you get cold easily and want to sew a quilt, wool is your savior! It is warm and cozy and also great for appliqués and texture experimentation.
- Batik fabrics with their vibrant colors and patterns provide real highlights in your Improv quilt.
- Prints*: Florals, geometrics, or animals – patterned fabrics can give your quilt a special visual note.
- Corduroy, velvet, chenille – they all bring a special feel to your quilt.
- Fabric scraps are stars here! If you have pieces left over from other projects, throw them into the mix and let them do their own thing.
- Upcycling: How about old shirts, blouses, or bed linens? Upcycled materials can provide a sustainable and unique touch to your quilt.
- And don't forget fabrics that tell stories. Garments or fabrics with sentimental value can give your quilts personal charm.
Mix different materials, colors, and textures, because there are no wrong decisions here.
Recommended reading: Sewing new things from old jeans
Free cutting: Which tools do I use for it?
For free cutting in patchwork, you need some basic tools and materials that help you cut fabrics in a creative and improvisational way.
Here is a list of the most important tools:
- A cutting mat* protects your work surface and enables precise cutting with a rotary cutter or a sharp fabric knife. It is available in various sizes. Recommended reading: Cleaning and caring for your cutting mat.
- A rotary cutter* is a practical tool for cutting fabrics precisely and evenly. It is also very useful if you do not want to cut straight lines. You can learn everything about rotary cutters in this post.
- Besides the rotary cutter, sharp fabric scissors* are important for freehand or curved cuts. Use special fabric scissors that are used exclusively for fabric. This way, the scissors stay sharp for a long time. There is also a fabric scissors test for you to read.
- A long patchwork ruler* is helpful for drawing straight lines and as a guide for the rotary cutter or scissors.
- You need a functional sewing machine that has at least a straight stitch.
- Standard sewing accessories are essential, such as pins* or Wonder Clips* to secure fabric pieces before sewing, as well as a seam ripper*, in case you need to make corrections :)
- An iron* is important for pressing seams flat and smoothing out fabric pieces during the work process.
- If you want to transfer specific curves or lines onto the fabric, use a marking pen* that can be easily removed.
- Use high-quality sewing thread* that matches your fabric. You can also use different thread colors for creative effects if the seam is visible.
How do I cut fabric edges so they fit together?
Cutting fabric edges to fit is an important step in patchwork and quilting. It ensures your seams are clean and precise.
Here are my 8 tips to help you cut fabric edges perfectly.
- Always start with well-pressed fabrics. Wrinkles, creases, or waves in the fabric make accurate cutting difficult.
- Use a cutting mat and a rotary cutter. The cutting mat often features markings to assist you with cutting.
- Make sure the blade is sharp to ensure clean cuts. A dull blade can lead to torn or frayed edges.
- Secure the fabric with pins or Wonder Clips to ensure it doesn't shift while cutting.
- If you are cutting multiple fabric pieces, ensure the edges to be sewn together are perfectly aligned.
- Leave enough seam allowance at the edges so you can sew comfortably later. Typically, the seam allowance is 1/4 inch (approx. 0.6 cm) or more, depending on the instructions.
- If you are unsure how the new technique works, cut a test piece. You can turn these into small cosmetic pouches.
With patience and practice, you will get better at cutting slanted or even curved fabric edges to match each other perfectly.
Free cutting: What patterns and cutting lines are possible?
Stripes, curves, and any irregular shapes you want to cut from the fabric. The more curved or pointy the shape, the trickier it becomes.
How can I sew curves together?
Sewing curves, whether in patchwork or other sewing projects, requires some skill and practice. These are the 3 steps with tips for successfully sewing curves together:
Step 1: Preparation
- Prepare fabric: Ensure the fabric pieces you want to sew together are correctly cut and prepared. Mark the seam lines on the fabrics if necessary.
- Pins or Wonder Clips: Use pins or Wonder Clips to secure the fabric pieces before sewing. This helps prevent the curves from slipping during stitching.
Step 2: Sewing the curves
- Sewing slowly: Reduce your sewing speed. This gives you more control over the fabric and allows you to sew precisely along the curve.
- Start at the right point: Begin sewing about a centimeter before the point where the curve starts. This gives you room to secure your first stitches.
- Needle position: Leave the needle down in the fabric when approaching the curve. This makes it easier to navigate around the bend.
- Small stitches: Use shorter stitch lengths when sewing curves. This gives you more control in the bend and prevents the fabric from pulling or bunching.
- Sew in sections: Sew the curve in small sections. Stop the sewing machine regularly to ensure the fabric is positioned well, then carefully turn the fabric to continue the curve.
- Navigating curves gently: As you sew the curve, turn the fabric in the desired direction. You can also lift the presser foot to realign the fabrics.
- Mind the markings: Mark the fabric, for example at corners or pivot points.
Step 3: Pressing and finishing
- Trim: Carefully trim the seam allowance.
- Notching: Sharper curves lie much flatter if you make small snips in the seam allowance at regular intervals, stopping just before the seam.
- Pressing: After sewing curves, especially in patchwork projects, carefully press the patchwork piece. This helps the seams lie flat.
With a little practice, you will become more confident in sewing curves. Over time, you will likely develop your own technique.
It is helpful to work on test pieces before cutting into your favorite fabrics.
Which direction should the seam allowances face in improv quilting?
The better you press the seam allowances, the flatter the seams will lie. I press the seam allowance into the curve. For sharply curved shapes, it is helpful to notch the seam allowance.
How do I need to set my sewing machine for improv quilting?
The settings of your sewing machine for improv quilting depend on various factors, such as the type of project and the fabrics you are using.
- Connecting seams: For joining, use a straight stitch, with the stitch length depending on the thickness of your fabric (2.5 to 3.0 mm).
- Topstitching: If you intend to quilt your project later with many lines and details, a longer stitch (3.5 to 4.0 mm) might be suitable.
Adjust the speed of your sewing machine to suit you. A slow pace can give you more control over your seams.
Free cutting: Do I need a pattern for that?
In free cutting, you don't measure meticulously or cut accurately – no, here you just snip away wildly. Fabrics are cut freehand without you needing to follow any rules.
The result? If it fits, it fits – and if not, you make it fit.
Free cutting tutorial
Theoretically, you already know what's going to happen. In practice, I will show you now how free cutting works. So have your fabric ready, grab your rotary cutter, and let's get started!
A Free cutting with fabric strips
There are different methods for free cutting. First, I will show you how improv quilting works with fabric strips.
Choosing, pressing, and cutting fabrics
The highlight: Combine different fabric qualities and surprising color combinations.
We mixed Simone's prints with simple solid cotton woven fabrics.
To ensure the fabric lies flat without creases and wrinkles, it is important to press it.
This ensures the fabric is optimally prepared for cutting into uniform pieces.
Free-cutting strip units, arranging, and sewing together
Layer all fabrics with the right side facing up.
To test the technique, don't use your favorite fabrics.
Now, cut strips from your fabrics. The number, length, and width are entirely up to you.
Remember that you need a seam allowance.
To test the technique, don't use your favorite fabrics.
Now, cut strips from your fabrics. The number, length, and width are entirely up to you.
Remember that you need a seam allowance.
Sort the fabric strips in a way that you like best.
Place the strips right sides together along the long edges.
Sew them together with a seam allowance of 6 mm.
Then divide the strips crosswise into as many elements as you like.
Snip up all the strips you prepared and arrange them the way you want to sew them together later.
Now you can sew your strips together right sides together as you wish.
This is what my patchwork blocks, sewn together every which way, look like.
Trim the edges so you can sew the blocks together right sides facing.
Sew the pieces together into a piece of fabric large enough for your project.
This is what my fabric looks like now. It is important that you press the seams from the right side of the fabric first.
Then press the seam allowances smooth from the wrong side of the fabric.
Only after pressing do you truly see how the fabrics work together.
Now you can cut your fabric to size.
I turned my beautiful improv quilting into a gorgeous cosmetic bag with a diagonal zipper.
How do you like the result?
Tip: Birgit cut her fabric into 2 additional narrow strips. It just looks more interesting when the strips are of varying widths.
This is Birgit's patchwork unit after sewing it together.
So you can visualize what a quilt might look like from this, Birgit has duplicated the resulting patchwork piece multiple times and arranged it evenly for you.
How do you like it?
B Sewing curved units
Once you have mastered the strip units, you can venture into curves.
Step 1 Choose fabrics, press and cut
I cut 4 fabrics at once. To do this, I layer them on top of each other. My measurement is 20x30 cm.
Especially for beginners in free cutting, this is a large enough size to practice the technique.
You can, of course, prepare your exact desired size.
Step 2 Cut fabric to size
Use a sufficiently large quilting ruler to cut the fabric pieces. This allows you to determine the length and width quite comfortably.
Once you have cut your desired size, the question arises: what shape should your strips have?
You could perhaps take a sheet of paper and experiment a little. Set several horizontal lines with gentle curves. If the curves are too sharp, they will be harder to sew together later.
Are you ready to cut into your fabric?
Then draw the lines with a marking pen that can be washed out later. Or draw on the wrong side of the fabric.
When cutting out the gentle curves, test which rotary cutter works best for cutting through the 4 layers of fabric. If you want more information on rotary cutters, you can find it in the article everything about rotary cutters.
In the picture, you can see that each fabric color is present in 4 shapes. The fabric pieces are now sorted until you like the arrangement.
Here, with the beige patterned fabrics, I swapped the parts. Please be careful when assembling the pieces.
I really like the pieces together.
Step 3 Pin and sew the fabric
If you have never joined curved fabric pieces together before, you can mark 2-3 guide lines.
Connect the fabric pieces exactly at these points with clips or pins.
Sew slowly and with a seam allowance of 6 mm. Stop every now and then and align the fabric pieces exactly on top of each other.
If you are sewing without pins, it is also helpful to lift the presser foot occasionally to better realign the fabric pieces.
Step 4 Press fabric
Now the block is pressed. Press the seam allowances into the "curve". If the fabric doesn't want to lay flat, you can make a few clips up to just before the seam line.
This is what the 1st free-cut patchwork block looks like.
Pretty impressive, right?
The 4 patchwork parts look very good laid together, don't you think?
If you sew many such patchwork units, your finished quilt could look like this.
C Creating strip units with the carpet cut method
If you have already heard of the carpet cut in the context of renovations, that’s a good start.
When laying carpet, the edges are overlapped at the seams and then cut in a wavy line. This makes the seam invisible on the carpet floor.
The carpet cut works almost the same way in patchwork when you want to cut curvy strips out of your straight strips.
What do you need? Strips in different widths and colors; that makes it look especially exciting.
The edges of your two strips must now overlap enough for you to trace your desired curve.
Now place the white strip over the right edge of the gray fabric far enough so that the curve on the white fabric is completely covered by the gray fabric.
Here you can take another look at what the carpet cut should look like.
You are now cutting through the gray and yellow fabric at the same time.
In the picture, you can see that I have made 2 curvy cuts.
They are sewn together as described in point B.
How do you like this strip unit?
Here is a small patchwork piece of mine that was created by free-cutting strips.
Can you tell how I did it?
Conclusion: Sharp sewing idea meets creative power
Free cutting means pure creative freedom. You now know 3 techniques to successfully start with Improv quilting. Let the creative sparks fly and create something that is entirely your own. Sabine and I, at any rate, got started right away and conjured up very different projects with the resulting patchwork fabric.
Do you already have ideas about what you want to do with a unique piece of fabric art? Write it to us in the comments!
Happy Improv quilting, Birgit & Sabine
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