Common Sewing Pattern Problems: Help, Tips, and Solutions

Common sewing pattern problems: In this post, I cover just about every sewing pattern problem I know of. Is something missing? Then feel free to leave me a comment :)

The most important things at a glance

• Sewing pattern problems can have many causes
• Problems can occur, for example, when tracing the pattern or transferring it onto the fabric
• Many typical sewing pattern problems experienced by beginners and professionals alike can be avoided with simple measures
• In this post, I share practical sewing pattern tips & solutions for beginners and advanced sewists

Help, my sewing pattern doesn't fit!

If a sewing pattern doesn't fit, there can be many reasons for this. Transferring and using a sewing pattern involves several steps, after all.

If one or more of these steps is faulty, the entire pattern won't work. Suddenly, seam edges are different lengths, bust darts are different widths, or the same pattern in the same size has a completely different fit.

These typical mistakes don't just happen to beginners: even advanced hobby sewists (of all genders!) occasionally fall into the pattern trap.

In this post, we’ll clarify what can go wrong, what you should look out for, how to prevent sewing pattern problems in the first place, and how to use sewing patterns. You’re in for a treat! :)

Understanding sewing patterns

What do all those symbols on the patterns mean? And how can I interpret them? You may have asked yourself these questions before.

The sewing ideas and sewing patterns from SewSimple are deliberately designed to be simple and practical to implement. Combined with the easy-to-follow instructions, even beginners can bring great sewing ideas to life and enjoy their first sewing successes.

However: especially when using pattern sheets that are meant to hold many patterns, it can be completely overwhelming for beginners (and many advanced hobby sewists as well). This can really take the fun out of sewing for yourself. Many then give up, and some even discouragedly hang up this wonderful hobby for good.

That, of course, should never be the case. This chapter is all about understanding sewing patterns. So that you can enjoy your wonderful hobby right from the start! :)

Here are a few examples of what you might encounter on a pattern sheet (and also on my sewing patterns!).

Pattern lines: How do you read sewing patterns?

Many store-bought clothing patterns pack an incredible number of designs onto one sheet. Sure, somewhere there is a hint as to which pieces belong to which models. But figuring that out is incredibly confusing even for me as a frequent sewist. Perhaps that was the secret reason I started designing my own patterns. ;)

The difference from individual patterns: On the pattern sheets included with magazines or books, for example, many patterns are printed full-size (if you're lucky) stacked on top of each other as a multi-size nest.

To make the patterns and sizes distinguishable from one another, the pattern lines are printed as dotted, dashed, or colored lines.

The pattern is the same for all pieces of the relevant size. If you simply trace all the pattern pieces with the same style of dashed lines, nothing can go wrong.

Grainline

The grainline shows you how the pattern should be placed on the fabric to achieve the optimal fit.

But what exactly is the grainline?

The grainline indicates the direction in which the warp threads of a fabric run. If your fabric has a selvage, you can easily recognize it: the grainline runs parallel to the selvage. Feel free to check out my post about fabric selvages for more on this.

What happens if you don't pay attention to the grainline?

If you lay the fabric at the wrong angle to the grainline, the following happens: the pattern is cut on the bias (diagonally) to the grainline.

What might not sound dramatic at first can be a real issue in the finished garment. Seam edges no longer fit together, zippers get puckers, or shoulders lose their shape.

Therefore, first align your pattern with the grainline. If you are not sure whether you have it right, you can simply extend the arrow indicating the grainline (the Straight Grain) across the entire pattern sheet. Then you can easily see if it runs parallel to the selvage.

Reading tip: Reading and understanding sewing patterns

Bust darts

Bust darts ensure a good fit. You find them frequently in women's clothing. For example, they sit in the chest area of blouses, on the shoulders of dresses, at jacket waists, or at the bottom of bags. Their task: they create space for shapes and turn a two-dimensional pattern into a three-dimensional garment.

In the picture, you can clearly see that the size of the bust dart changes with the size of the pattern. It is important to transfer this marking accurately according to the size onto the fabric.

Notches

Notches ensure that the pattern pieces meet exactly where they are supposed to. You can transfer them to the fabric using small snips.

Markings

Markings can indicate where a zipper ends, where a slit begins, or where a collar is attached. They are responsible for ensuring that the sewn piece has the same look in all sizes.

Measuring problems

The first hurdle can be choosing the right size. But how do you determine sizes correctly?

Taking measurements correctly

For this step, you should let someone help you. It is much easier and more accurate than measuring yourself. Why? Because the tape measure should be placed exactly horizontally around the body. And that is simply easier if a helper takes on this task.

Measurements should always be taken at the fullest/narrowest points of the body. For example, at the fullest part of the bust, the narrowest part of the waist, the fullest part of the hips, etc.

Write down all measurements and compare them with the finished garment and body measurement charts. The finished measurement indicates the actual dimensions of the sewn garment. You can compare the measurements with your favorite piece of clothing. Then you will know if everything fits as it should.

Is your tape measure wavy?

If you keep your tape measure rolled up in the drawer, it can happen that the tape gets a permanent wave.

Tape measures that are this wavy are not really well-suited for accurate measuring. However, you can roll them in the other direction and let them lie for some time; this removes a large portion of the waves.

A good alternative are tape measures^* that roll up at the push of a button. With these, such difficulties usually don't even arise. And you don't have a "tape measure salad" when you open the drawer. That has its advantages.

Problems with printing sewing patterns

Many sewing pattern problems start with printing. To make sure that doesn't happen (anymore) to you in the future, here are the specific problems and the best solutions for them.

The pattern prints out crooked

How should you print patterns? And why are they sometimes crooked?

Usually, this is because the printer pages are fed in crookedly. To avoid this, you should study your printer's manual. In the printer's paper tray, there are small plastic guides that you can use to load the paper firmly and straight. You should make use of these.

The test square doesn't match the specification on the pattern

When this happens, it is usually because you printed the pattern with a setting other than the one specified.

For SewSimple patterns, the rule is: the printer must be set to 100% without page scaling.

In any case, it is important to measure the test square before you start. It should match the reference information on the square.

Only when the test square is correct has the pattern been printed correctly.

How are sewing patterns taped together?

Our bag patterns have a tiling plan directly on the pattern. For clothing patterns, it works like this:

The sizes are not shown on the pattern

Many hobby sewists report this problem: when the pattern is displayed on the screen, all markings are still there.

But on the finished printout, the markings are missing. How can that happen?

In the printer menu, you have the option "Printer settings" at the very bottom. If you have only selected "Document," for example, only the pattern might be printed. Without the markings.

Therefore, always set it to "Document and markups." Then the sizes will show up as well. :)

Problems transferring sewing patterns

Tracing, copying, or transferring the pattern can also lead to inaccuracies and errors. And consequently, a poor fit of the finished garment. Let's look at what can happen and how to avoid it.

Slipped on the line while tracing the pattern

When you print and copy a pattern in the classic way, or trace a finished paper pattern in the size you need, it's easy to get confused by the lines.

Because the lines are very thin, the pattern paper is slightly milky. And in a flash, you've accidentally traced a size 36 for the top, but a size 40 for the waist. :)

You can prevent this by thickening the line on the original pattern with a pencil or a fine felt-tip pen before copying. When you then copy it, the line will stand out clearly, and you won't make any more transfer errors.

Traced sewing pattern with a pen that is too thick

It definitely makes a difference whether you trace a pattern with a fine-liner or a thick permanent marker. If you want to use a permanent marker, I recommend one with a fine tip.

However, I would rather suggest a fine-liner that draws consistently solid lines and with which you can stay exactly on the pattern line.

The tracing paper slips

A really nasty thing, because it's not easy to realign everything.

I have made it a habit to fix the tracing paper to the original with pins. Some professionals and fast sewists also use pattern weights.

For me, however, sewing weights are not so practical because I like to copy lines using a ruler (e.g., a French curve). Weights get in my way.

The tracing paper rolls up

Tracing paper stored on a roll has the nasty tendency to roll itself up as if by remote control.

You can easily prevent this: fold the tracing paper over double at the top and bottom edges. Then it will lie nice and flat, and you can draw on it precisely.

Taping the pattern together

Many mistakes also happen when taping the individual pages of a pattern together. It happens again and again that one joins the long pattern sections required for jackets and tops "somehow." Without checking whether all the lines meet precisely.

For SewSimple patterns, the rule is: the pattern pieces are taped together along the black frame.

Often it is best to cut off the frame on one long and one short side, and leave it on the next side. The paper strips outside the line can then serve as a gluing edge.

Taping and tracing patterns at the window

If you want to be absolutely sure that all lines meet exactly, you can also assemble or trace the pattern at the window.

If you tape the printouts to the window, you can follow the pattern lines exactly and tape the pattern together correctly.

The pattern was taped on crooked

To ensure this doesn't happen to me, I use roller glue^* or Washi tape^*. Then I can, if necessary, detach the sides of the pattern from each other again and realign them. I find that extremely helpful.

Taping pattern pieces flush

For clothing, many pattern pieces consist of several printed pages. To ensure no errors occur during assembly and the seam edges are flush, I recommend that you first fix the pattern pieces at the top and bottom with glue. After that, you can tape the section in between.

In doing so, you should make sure that markings and notches meet.

Imprecise cutting due to loose pattern edges

A source of danger during cutting: when the pattern is not secured at the edges. This can suddenly cause you to cut underneath the pattern.

You can avoid this by simply weighing down the pattern edges with a long patchwork ruler. This also makes cutting with a rotary cutter much easier.

Marking the pattern

It is important that you transfer the markings to the pattern. Especially with long distances, the fit can depend on whether you pin the pattern pieces together "by feel" or whether you align them at the markings. A few millimeters can make a huge difference.

This is coming from someone who also preferred to work "freestyle" at the beginning. I only realized how important the markings are with the Lovis jacket. The chest area of the jacket relies on the correct distribution of the fabric panels.

When transferring the markings, make sure to draw them on the pattern, not outside of it.

This also applies, for example, to the point where the highest point of the sleeve cap and the shoulder seam meet. Or the attachment points for hoods and collars.

I don't just transfer the markings; I also label the pattern pieces. I note how many times I need to cut the respective piece from which fabric, the width of the seam allowance, which size I copied, and also the name of the pattern again.

Often, the number of buttons or measurements for elastic are also added. If everything is noted on the pattern, you are on the safe side. :)

Pattern paper is wrinkled

Neither wrinkled fabric nor wrinkled pattern paper are good prerequisites for precise pattern pieces.

If patterns are stored folded, they naturally have creases. Iron the pages before you lay them out on the fabric and pin them down.

Pattern paper or even normal paper can handle ironing heat quite well. You might want to turn the heat down a little. And if you have taped the pattern together, you can place a layer of parchment paper between the iron and the paper. Then nothing can go wrong. :)

Creating durable patterns

If a pattern is to be used more often, it is worth transferring it to sturdy paper, but it must still be thin enough to be pinned. Architect paper is a good solution.

Many hobby sewists also use transparent plastic trash bags because they can be stored without wrinkles and do not take up much space.

Laying out and transferring patterns to the fabric correctly

Perhaps you have asked yourself before: How do I lay out patterns on the fabric? And how do I transfer them?

You probably already guessed it: this step is prone to a high rate of error. Let's talk about what can happen and how you can easily avoid mistakes.

The fabric is under tension

Not everyone has a cutting table of 2 x 2 meters, which you really would need for some sewing projects.

With smaller tables, it can happen that the fabric hangs over the edge of the table and thus comes under tension.

If the fabric is cut while under such tension, it can completely ruin the fit.

Weigh down overhanging lengths of fabric with fabric weights and spread the fabric out loosely so that it does not become stretched.

If that is not possible, move the cutting to the floor.

The fabric is wrinkled

Before processing, the fabric should be pre-washed to avoid subsequent shrinkage. More on that further down.

And: Of course, you should also iron the fabric before pinning the pattern onto it.

Why should you do that? Because fabric that is cut while wrinkled results in completely inaccurate pattern pieces. The edges, the size, the shape: basically, nothing is right anymore.

Pattern is not exactly on the fabric fold

If pattern pieces are cut on the fabric fold, this creates a beautiful symmetry. Provided that the edge of the pattern is really lying exactly on the fold of the fabric.

If you shift the pattern away from the fold, it doesn't just result in extra width: the back piece suddenly no longer fits the front piece, the neckline becomes larger, or the pocket position shifts.

So, align the pattern exactly with the fabric fold and pin it well. Alternatively, you can clip the pattern to the fold using fabric clips.

The fabric fold does not lie flat

This is a problem that occurs especially with thick, voluminous fabrics. Or with fabrics that are particularly stiff and inflexible, such as bag fabrics.

What helps? You can iron the fabric fold before laying down the pattern piece. This helps very well with some fabrics.

If that doesn't work, you can also cut the pattern piece open.

Lay the fabric down in a single layer for this. Position the pattern and mark the line labeled "fabric fold" on the fabric.

Cut the piece with the help of the pattern. Then place it along the line on the other side and cut out a symmetrical piece.

Cutting next to the pattern line

Cut a piece off the pattern with the rotary cutter and then improvised with the motto "it'll be fine"? Well, that's exactly what happens then.

When things have to be done quickly, it certainly happens to me that I cut next to the pattern line. And thereby make the piece smaller. But that is only part of the problem. The second piece cut with this pattern will also be significantly smaller.

So definitely make sure to cut exactly next to the line. :)

The pattern slips on the fabric

Sometimes the fabric itself is slippery. Other times, the pattern paper wanders over the nap of a fabric as if on thousands of tiny feet. The result is the same: an imprecise cut based more on chance than planning.

There are various ways to really fix patterns firmly and securely on a fabric: pins, fabric weights, fabric clips are just a few of them. In custom tailoring and some other sewing areas where things are taken "very seriously," there is sometimes the phenomenon of ironing or gluing patterns onto the fabric.

I tried this and am impressed with the result. Especially because it's very easy to do and really makes working easier. Especially when I work with so-called difficult fabrics.

I succeeded with a spray from Odif that very few people even know about: it's called Odif 808 Pattern Fixative.

This is how it is used: I spray the Odif 808 directly on the back of the pattern and then stick the pattern onto the fabric. The pattern adheres and no longer needs to be pinned or weighed down. Now I can cut quite accurately and in a relaxed manner.

Afterward, the pattern is simply peeled off. There are no residues on the fabric.

But the really cool thing is: the adhesive is reactivatable with ironing heat. What does that mean? I can lay the pre-treated "un-stuck" pattern on the next piece of fabric, iron over it, and snap! It's rock solid!

I think that's totally magical - and incidentally, also really practical! For me, the Odif 808 is used, for example, with knit, viscose, velvet-like, or very stretchy fabrics. Also highly recommended: for cutting open (i.e., not on the fold) of striped fabrics. This way you can be absolutely sure that the pattern sits super symmetrically on the stripes. :)

▶ You can order Odif 808 here^*

Cutting inside or outside along the cutting line

It makes quite a difference whether you cut to the right or left of your pattern's lines. In total, a few centimeters can add up, which can ruin the finished garment.

Cut exactly on the line to achieve the best possible fit.

Ignoring markings in the pattern

Definitely transfer the markings from the pattern to the fabric.

This works very well with small notches, i.e., incisions within the seam allowance. I use a small extra sharp pair of scissors^* for this, which cuts well right to the tip. In my experience, the Fiskars scissors meet these criteria best of all the scissors I own.

By the way, they are also wonderfully suitable for notching or shortening seam allowances or as thread scissors. I wouldn't want to be without them anymore.

As an alternative to notches, you can also transfer the markings with chalk pencil or other textile markers. But keep in mind: if you iron the pattern piece in the course of the work process, some heat-erasable textile markers will simply disappear.

And it is enormously difficult (and very inaccurate) to transfer markings from the pattern to already sewn parts.

If fabrics are particularly coarse, it is sometimes difficult to transfer markings. In that case, I like to stick pins into the fabric for marking.

Using different seam allowances for the same pattern

There are supposedly still pattern makers who do not include seam allowance in their patterns. As a user, this annoys me a lot. Because it is time-consuming and also has a high potential for error to draw or mark seam allowances.

A particularly popular mistake: when you accidentally mark different seam allowances for the pieces of the same pattern.

A big plus can be the use of seam allowance marking aids^*. They usually have a small hole in the middle into which the tip of the pen is inserted. Then you guide the outer edge of the marking aid along the pattern and draw parallel.

The result is the pattern including the desired seam allowance. The width of the seam allowance is usually printed on the marking aids so that you don't get confused.

The width of the seam allowance is usually printed on the marking aids so you don't get confused.

Sewing machine seam allowance differs from the pattern

Also difficult: when you don't use the pattern's seam allowance but the sewing machine's setting.

On most patterns with included seam allowance, the width of the seam allowance is indicated. It then looks like this, for example:

But what happens if a seam allowance of 1 cm is indicated, but you don't even know your machine's seam allowance?

Determining the sewing machine's seam allowance

You can easily determine the sewing machine's seam allowance by measuring the distance between the needle and the edge of the presser foot.

For me, the preset seam allowance is 0.7 cm. To change the seam allowance, I can adjust the needle position to the right or left. This is easily done at the touch of a button on my Juki. You should check the operating manual to see if your machine might be able to do that too.

Determining the overlock seam allowance

With the overlock, you can determine the seam width by simply measuring the seam with a ruler.

Here, too, the seam width can be adjusted.

Fit problems with patterns

Done everything right up to this point? Then we are now entering the master class of pattern problems.

Grain line shifted during cutting

Another problem that can happen during cutting.

Pattern pieces cut at different angles to the grain line can behave completely differently.

What happens if a piece is cut not along but at an angle to the grain line? This makes the fabric more elastic than if it were cut along the grain line.

Just think of bias tape: it is cut diagonally to the grain line. This gives the actually firm woven fabric elasticity and allows it to lay around curves and rounds effortlessly.

Chest darts sewn with different widths

Chest darts can be a small challenge to your patience. Just the correct transfer of the pattern can take a lot of time and patience. But it is worth it.

Make sure that the chest darts are nice and symmetrical on both sides. This greatly benefits the fit of your new garment.

It is also important that both darts are folded and secured in the same direction. You should iron them firmly and then carefully catch them in the seam.

Pattern pieces mixed up

In the heat of the moment, this can happen: pieces that look similar can be sewn inside out or backwards. This often happens with sleeves or back pieces.

This can play a big role in the fit.

Here it almost happened to me too:

Yet at first glance, you can see that it is correct this way:

It is important to always label the pattern pieces individually and with "right" and "left," "front," "back," etc.

Pattern pieces must be cut in the same grain line

Resist the temptation to cut pattern pieces once along and once across the grain line. Even if it is non-stretchy woven fabric.

The fabric can behave completely differently across the grain line and thoroughly ruin the fit.

How do you know that you are working in the grain line? Cutting along the grain line is cleaner and much easier. It requires significantly less force to cut along the grain line than at an angle to it.

Cutting thick fabrics

Cutting high-pile, thick, or fluffy fabrics is often not that easy. It becomes easier if you press the edges of the pattern onto the fabric using a ruler and then cut it with a rotary cutter.

Use a rotary cutter with a large or extra-large blade. Small 28mm blades cannot handle thick fabrics.

Alternatively, you can also use electric scissors. Especially if you feel like the rotary cutter is pushing the fabric ahead of it.

You should cut particularly tricky areas like tight curves or corners with sharp scissors with large blades.

Cutting with a dull rotary cutter

Before you start cutting, you should test on a small fabric sample whether your rotary cutter is still sharp enough.

The rotary cutter must be sharp so that the fabric does not ripple in front of the blade. And so that individual threads are not left behind that you then have to painstakingly trim afterwards.

The problem with these individual threads: If you don't catch them all and you lift the fabric, it can happen that tension is put on the threads, causing the fabric to pucker or get damaged.

The fabric was not pre-washed

The most common reason why self-sewn clothing no longer fits after the first wash: Many fabrics have a certain amount of shrinkage.

Shrinkage? What is that? This refers to the fabric shrinking during the first wash. A shrinkage of up to 10% can be considered normal.

In other words: A shirt that is 60 cm wide before washing can easily be only 54 cm wide after washing and therefore much too small.

A good reason to wash the fabric before working with it, right? :)

Specific questions about pattern problems

In this chapter, I have compiled common questions for you. Let me know in the comments if you also have questions about pattern problems.

Why are my cut edges different lengths?

It can happen, for example, when pinning long sections together, such as an armscye or the side seam of a skirt, that there is an overhang on one of the pattern pieces. In other words: one cut edge is longer than the other.

If you have cut correctly, it may be because you did not pay attention to the markings and notches on the pattern and simply pinned the pattern pieces together in one direction.

What can you do to pin the cut edges together correctly?

Pin the edges together at both ends first. And then at the markings and notches. Then you can pin the sections in between by laying the edges together nicely and smoothly. You will see that this can also make a big visual difference in the finished garment. :)

What types of patterns are there?

There are patterns for almost everything: for baby clothes, children's clothes, fashion for women and men, bags, decor, and much more.

Every pattern creator has their own style and their own size chart. Most work with so-called pattern software that transforms the designers' ideas into sewable patterns.

Usually, the difficulty level of the respective model is indicated. You can use this as a guide when browsing and choosing. If you want to know whether a pattern is any good and what difficulties might arise, you can always look at the reviews for it.

How do download patterns work?

Pattern eBooks: How do they actually work?

It is much easier than it sounds: Download patterns can be bought in online shops on the internet.

In most shops, you can order as a guest or create a customer account. If you order as a guest, you will usually be sent a download link that you can use to download the pattern with sewing instructions (this combination is also called an eBook, i.e., electronic book) to your PC, laptop, mobile phone, or tablet.

The eBook contains files in which the sewing instructions, tables, example photos, and the pattern (usually in several versions and with variations) are stored. Because the files are so large, they are usually zipped. That means tied into a handy file package. You have to unzip this. I like to use a free unzipping program for this, for example 7Zip. You can download this on the internet.

You must keep the email with the link safe so that you can always download the latest version of the eBook again. You don't need an eBook reader like a Kindle for this.

If you have a customer account (a variant that I prefer), you can download your purchased patterns again and again in the customer area. You also have a good overview there of which patterns you have already bought.

To be able to use the pattern, it naturally has to be printed out. Many clothing patterns are offered not only in A4 format for printing at home but also as A1, A2, or A0 versions. You can then either put these on a USB stick and have them printed at a copy shop. Or you can upload these patterns to an online plotter service.

You can also create a customer account there. Once the pattern is uploaded, you can choose which paper and what quality it should be printed on. And also, how it should be folded. This is done by machine. For you, this has the great advantage that you can choose a format that is particularly suitable for your pattern library (or your binder).

A few days after ordering from the plotter service, the pattern arrives by mail and you can get started.

Feel free to give it a try! Many sewing fans now have their patterns printed online. It's really straightforward, and you don't have to glue everything together yourself. An enormous time-saver.

How do you sew according to a pattern?

How do I use a pattern? This is a question that moves many beginners.

The first decision: Are you buying a pattern that is already printed, or are you printing the pattern yourself and gluing it together?

When gluing, you can get to know the pattern a bit better, look at markings, and consider which variation you like.

Sewing instructions are always included with the patterns. These show and explain how to sew the fabric pieces together.

The pattern is placed on the fabric. Then the fabric is cut out, and you can start sewing.

What does cutting "mirrored" mean for a pattern?

Sometimes you come across the word "mirrored" or "cut in opposite directions" in a pattern or instruction.

It means that two pattern pieces are cut mirrored. Imagine a hood: the inner sides are facing each other, the outer sides are facing away from each other. However, both parts of the hood have the identical shape.

You always cut mirrored when two pattern pieces are intended for the right and left, for example: right sleeve, left sleeve. Right pocket, left pocket, right facing, left facing, etc.

Here you can see, for example, the sleeves and back pieces of the Lovis jacket. You can clearly see that the back pieces are cut mirrored in the middle.

Cutting mirrored works easiest if you lay the fabric out on the fold. This means you fold it just wide enough so that the pattern piece fits exactly on it.

Either the right or left sides of the fabric are touching. That doesn't matter when cutting mirrored. The main thing is: the pretty sides are not facing in the same direction.

A little trick for mirrored cutting: If you have too little fabric left to cut the pieces mirrored on the fold, you can also place the pattern on a single layer of fabric. If you make sure that the writing on the pattern is visible during the first cut and not during the second, then you have done everything right. Important here too: pay attention to the grain line. :)

Which material for patterns?

What are patterns easy to copy onto? There are various options.

Many hobby sewists like to work with classic tissue paper for patterns^*. You often get it folded in a plastic bag, not on a roll.

If you like to sew bags or projects with straight edges, you can use copying paper with centimeter units^*. With this, you can check whether all edges are nice and straight.

Some sewing fans swear by architectural paper^*: It is firm and nice and transparent. Furthermore, it can be labeled very well with a pencil.

A pattern that you want to sew again and again can also be copied onto pattern film. It can be rolled up well, folded small, doesn't take up much space, and can be pinned very smoothly to the fabric. It is more durable than paper.

There is also pattern film in packs^* folded or on a roll as a self-adhesive version^*. This has the advantage that it doesn't slip and doesn't have to be pinned with needles.

How do I enlarge a pattern?

Your favorite pattern is not available in your desired size? Then you can help yourself with a curve ruler. Extend the corner points of a pattern piece by drawing a line through both points outwards with the ruler. You then draw the next larger pattern line at the same distance that the other sizes have.

Important: You cannot enlarge special clothing patterns by printing them at a higher percentage. This causes them to lose shape and proportions.

How do I use a tracing wheel?

You can copy a pattern by tracing its lines with a tracing wheel.

If you put special tracing paper^* under the pattern, the teeth of the tracing wheel press the outline of the pattern into the fabric in color.

You can also use the tracing wheel to mark fabrics or darts. Then you can do without the tracing paper and simply follow the indented line:

Do you have more questions about patterns? Ask them in the comments! I look forward to reading from you.

You can also try out your newly acquired knowledge right away! Our Layer Shirt Aenni is fantastic for this. :)

Happy simple sewing, your Sabine

Frequently Asked Questions

…