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Estimated reading time: 3 min

Repair and replace trouser zipper

18.11.2018 by Sabine Schmidt

Hosen-Reißverschluss reparieren und ersetzen

Replacing a trouser zipper - it's much easier than you think. Unfortunately, it happens from time to time that you need to repair a jeans zipper, for example. In my tutorial, I'll show you how it's done.

How to repair a trouser zipper

Occasionally - and especially at the most inconvenient moments - it happens: rip. And then the jeans zipper is broken. Discarding the pants is not an option. Taking them to a tailor - too expensive!

How about you being able to easily replace your zippers yourself from now on?

It might not be as creative as other sewing projects. But it saves money, it's fun - and it takes your sewing skills to the next level. That’s something, right? ;)

My tip: If you like to repair your clothes yourself, take a look at my comprehensive help article on the topic of repairing jeans!

Required accessories to repair the trouser zipper


Picture tutorial: Repairing a trouser zipper

First of all, you naturally need: A pair of pants with a broken zipper ;)

Replacing a trouser zipper

My pants are a total loss in terms of the zipper: First, I’ll replace the button.

Replacing a trouser zipper

Now we can continue.

Let's take a closer look at the anatomy of a jeans zipper.

The piece of fabric that lies on top of the zipper is called the fly shield (or overlap).

Replacing a trouser zipper

The piece of fabric that lies under the zipper is called the fly facing (or underlap).

Replacing a trouser zipper

This way you will always know what I am talking about in my tutorial.
And you have just learned a few sewing terms. ;)


Removing the zipper

Start by using the seam ripper to rip open the waistband seam. Open the seam about 2 cm on each side of the zipper.

Replacing a trouser zipper
Replacing a trouser zipper
Replacing a trouser zipper

Repeat this step for the fly shield as well.

Replacing a trouser zipper

If your zipper - like mine - got stuck in the middle, you should open it.

Replacing a trouser zipper

To do this, simply rip out the teeth on one side of the zipper.

But be careful: Do not cut into the metal - that will dull your scissors! :)

Replacing a trouser zipper
Replacing a trouser zipper

Now you can completely remove the zipper.

Open the rounded topstitching as well.

Replacing a trouser zipper

Important: Thoroughly remove all thread remnants!

Replacing a trouser zipper
Replacing a trouser zipper
Replacing a trouser zipper

The thread remnants can be removed very well with a lint roller:

Replacing a trouser zipper
Replacing a trouser zipper

Also open the small topstitches that hold the fly shield and fly facing together:

Replacing a trouser zipper

Are all seams ripped and all lint removed?

Then it's time to sew in the new zipper!

Replacing a trouser zipper

Picture tutorial: Sewing in a trouser zipper

Pin the fly shield and fly facing together from the right side, about 1 cm below the rounded seam.

This ensures nothing shifts during the subsequent sewing.

Pin the bottom end of the zipper to the fly shield - exactly where the old zipper was. Start pinning above the pin holding the fly pieces together.

Replacing a trouser zipper

Sew the zipper in place with a straight stitch, 2 - 3 mm away from the teeth.

It is best to use your sewing machine's zipper foot here and a thread that matches the color of the pants.

I am sewing with dark blue general-purpose thread.

For the fly facing, I work with Wonder Tape - I find it easier to handle than pins.

Replacing a trouser zipper

Press the fabric firmly onto the Wonder Tape.

Replacing a trouser zipper

And sew it in place with a straight stitch, also at a 2 - 3 mm distance from the zipper teeth.

Replacing a trouser zipper

Insert the upper ends of the zipper into the waistband and secure them with a seam.

If the zipper is too long, you can shorten it. 2 centimeters of the zipper should be inside the seam. Remove the teeth before positioning the zipper in the waistband.

Replacing a trouser zipper

Finally, sew the fly pieces together by laying them exactly on top of each other as they were originally.

Topstitch the decorative seams from the right side with a straight stitch. Beforehand, definitely check again to make sure all layers are smooth and in the correct position.

If you find this difficult, a little bit of Wonder Tape will help here too. ;)

Replacing a trouser zipper
Replacing a trouser zipper

Done!

It wasn't that hard to replace a trouser zipper, was it? :)

Be sure to also check out my large help article on the topic of repairing jeans!

Happy simple sewing,

your Sabine

Replacing a trouser zipper

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About the author

Sabine

I come from Siegen-Wittgenstein, where I spent my childhood breaking in cows, jumping off haystacks and scraping a D- in needlework class.

Today, being creative feels like indescribable happiness to me – and it grows even more when I can share it with others. Since 2016 I have been celebrating my passion for sewing on this blog, and I love that sewing connects so many people.