Jersey is arguably one of the most popular sewing fabrics of all – and rightly so, if you ask me! In this article, you will learn what jersey actually is, what makes it so special, and which sewing projects it is suitable for.
The most important things at a glance
- Beginners can also sew with jersey
- Jersey is a soft, stretchy material that, thanks to its airy structure, is comfortable, climate-regulating, and breathable
- Jersey is versatile
- Jersey is available in the most beautiful colors and patterns
- Jersey is very easy to care for and can even be machine washed at 60°C, which makes it particularly attractive for children's clothing
- Is your jersey rippling while sewing? Then be sure to take a look at this article as well
What kind of fabric is jersey?
Jersey is a soft, stretchy material that is climate-regulating and breathable due to its airy structure. Because of its knitted and looped structure, jersey is also wrinkle-free.
What does jersey fabric feel like?
Jersey is a lightweight, elastic fabric that adapts very well to body movements. Depending on its composition, jersey drapes differently. Cotton jersey, for example, has a slightly heavier drape than viscose jersey, which is very supple and doesn't add bulk. There are also jersey fabrics made of silk or wool blends.
Two different types of jersey
You should know these two types of jersey:
Single jersey
- Single jersey, the simplest type of jersey, looks a bit like a piece of knitting in terms of structure: knit stitches on the front, purl stitches on the back. It is excellent for all types of clothing, for example for T-shirts and underwear
- Cotton jersey* is, in a sense, the classic among jersey fabrics: versatile, well-tolerated (natural), easy to care for, and dimensionally stable. That is the best way to describe jersey fabric made of cotton. It is suitable for dresses or comfortable skirts as well as athletic pants
- Viscose jersey* has a soft drape and is very comfortable to wear. The viscose creates a "cooling" sensation, making the fabric particularly well-suited for tops such as T-shirts or dresses
- Romanit jersey* has the reputation of being the optimal "slimming fabric" and is flattering to every figure. It is available in both wool quality and as a blend with viscose. Particularly practical: it is virtually impossible to wrinkle clothing made of Romanit jersey – no matter how stuffed your suitcase is ;)
Double jersey
- Double jersey is slightly thicker and higher quality than single jersey and consists of either only knit or only purl stitches
- Interlock jersey* is knitted offset on two rows of needles and is therefore firmer, more robust, and more durable than double and single jersey. It is particularly suitable for fitted sheets, pillowcases, and bedding. Durable sports and leisurewear can also be sewn well from interlock jersey.
- Jacquard jersey* is recognizable by its knitted-in structure, which makes the fabric both stretchy and elegant – perfect for fancy dresses, capes, tops, and jackets
- Foil jersey* is a usually cheaper version of the stretch fabric, which is mostly used for dancewear or carnival costumes. It is available in great gold and silver colors, for example
What is sewn with jersey fabric?
Jersey is a universally applicable material. It is just as suitable for children's clothing as it is for the sports or leisure sector. Casual lounge wear can also be sewn very well from jersey. Beanies, loop scarves, and wrist warmers are also quickly sewn from jersey. I recently tried my hand at a cute jersey bib :).
How is jersey fabric sewn?
Of course, you can sew jersey with your normal free-arm sewing machine. However, you should remember to use an elastic stitch, for example an overlock stitch or a zigzag stitch that stretches well. This is important so that the seams can "move with you" later when worn.
The zigzag stitch should have a length of 2.5 to 3.0 and a width of 0.5 to 0.7.
It is important that you sew the seams from bottom to top if possible. So start at the hem. The reason for this: the feed dog usually transports the fabric layer lying directly on it better than the top one. Sometimes this results in slight shifts. You can counteract this by, for example, using a walking foot or having a sheet of baking paper run along with it.
Jersey hems look very professional when sewn with a twin needle* with 4 mm spacing. In this article, I explain how to use a twin needle.
Make sure to buy a second spool of sewing thread in the required color when buying the fabric – two spools of thread are threaded simultaneously for the twin needle!
Is your jersey rippling while sewing? I have written a separate article about this. Because: almost everyone knows the problem – the solution is actually quite simple. Find out here what you can do if the jersey ripples while sewing.
Do I have to pay attention to the grain line with jersey?
"I want to sew a T-shirt and, due to a lack of fabric, would have to cut the front part, for example, crosswise or against the grain. What could happen to the shirt if I were to sew it that way?"
Jersey also behaves differently with or at a right angle to the grain. It stretches differently, contracts differently. How strongly these properties appear in the finished garment depends on the nature of the respective fabric.
In principle, such a garment where the grain of the front and back parts is not identical can quickly warp at the edges and seams and lose its shape. Or it might not take on a proper shape in the first place.
Why is jersey fabric so popular?
Because jersey can be used in so many different ways! Furthermore, jersey is available in the most delightful colors and patterns. From solids to animal prints to great children's jerseys. It is super comfortable to wear and not as thick as sweatshirt fabric.
Jersey is very easy to care for and can even be washed in the washing machine at 60°C, which makes it particularly attractive for children's clothing.
How do I find the right jersey fabric?
If you are a sewing beginner, you can buy cheaper jersey first and see if you get along with the material. If you then want to venture into clothing for yourself or your child, you should choose a high-quality jersey fabric.
This ensures that your lovingly self-sewn garment still looks good even after many washes. For baby clothing, make sure that the fabric meets the Oeko-Tex Standard. Of course, organic fabrics are also great here.
It is clear from the start that your child's skin will not come into contact with harmful substances.
If you want to sew according to instructions, you can also check whether a specific elastane content is specified there and let that guide you when buying fabric.
Where can I buy affordable jersey fabric?
Over time, you will notice that jersey fabrics from well-known manufacturers always have a similar processing standard. This makes it easier to simply order online as well. I buy many of my jersey fabrics at Stoffe Hemmers*, because they have great organic quality jersey fabrics*.
At the beginning, you might prefer to check with a local specialist retailer – when you can feel the fabric, it is often easier to judge whether the jersey is suitable for your planned project.
Which jersey motifs are popular?
Unicorn motifs in all rainbow colors are super trendy right now. Especially soft pink, mint, and pink are favorites here. If you prefer it more neutral: foxes, badgers, owls, and bees continue to romp around on the trendy jerseys. Why not try the combination with a chic solid-colored fabric!
My tip: Geometric patterns in soft pastel colors are currently really great!
Are you in the mood to sew great things for yourself and your loved ones out of jersey?
I can recommend these books to you:
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*And now have fun sewing, trying things out, and getting a new wardrobe! ;)
Do you have a question? – Then feel free to leave me a comment!
Happy simple sewing,
yours, Sabine
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