You've sewn a shirt and the jersey is puckering while sewing? Don't worry, there's reason for hope! Here are my tips for sewing jersey!
The most important things at a glance
- Jersey is best sewn with an elastic stitch
- I use either a twin needle or a jersey or stretch needle to sew jersey
- Here I have written down even more jersey sewing tips – basically everything you need to know about jersey
- So that the fabric can run evenly through the machine and no waves are needed, you need an even-feed foot
With my Janome (absolute recommendation), the problem was so bad that I no longer had the desire to sew anything out of jersey. When I finally (with great reluctance) got myself to do it, I limited myself to hems with binding finishes or rolled hems.
With the bindings, I then had to do without topstitching, because the jersey also puckered like crazy.
I would love to tell you: Just put some Washi-Tape* under the sewing foot and off you go! But unfortunately, it's not that simple.
To get really beautiful jersey seams without waves, you need a little finesse. And it does take a little effort. But it's worth it. If you follow my tips, you will be crazy about sewing with jersey and want to sew a complete wardrobe in no time. And completely wave-free!
Reading tip: Sewing jersey with the sewing machine
Here I have written down even more jersey sewing tips – basically everything you need to know about jersey :)
Why does jersey pucker when sewing?
The idea of finishing with jersey strips, which I personally like best, was out of the question. Or rounded hems, which simply look great on my curvy figure! And let's be honest. I feel too old for these constant binding finishes. Especially for work, I like to have something classic that doesn't look like I could also sleep in it if necessary...
I mean - how sad is it when you sew the most stylish bags and pouches, come up with the most wonderful cosmetic bags and the craziest sewing projects, but in the end you can't even sew a well-fitting T-shirt without throwing everything into the trash in the end?
What haven't I tried to prevent the jersey from puckering. Washi-Tape under the sewing foot, Washi Tape on the feed dog, sewing with baking paper, kitchen roll too, placing the fabric on paper, trying different threads, jersey needles from different manufacturers (in the end I still stuck with Schmetz*).
Not to mention how I played with sewing foot pressure and thread tension, with sewing speed and stitch length. With different types of fabric. I soaked jersey in starch, dried it and practically ran it through the sewing machine rock hard. In the end, it didn't help or hardly helped.
Then came thoughts: Do I maybe need a different sewing machine? A coverlock? Am I untalented? Or too critical? Maybe I didn't iron the hem long enough? Not with enough steam? Or too long? Maybe wash it again before ironing? Are Janome and Brother simply not the right sewing machines for jersey*?
When I was at this point, I asked an old sewing friend for advice. One I know sews mainly clothes. She listened to my lamentation. At this point in the conversation, she handed me a tissue.
And then asked: "Um. But you are using the even-feed foot for jersey, right?"
My heart skipped a beat. It might have been two.
My friend looked at me, shook her head very slightly and said: "Well, then...".
Why does jersey pucker? You will have noticed that jersey can be sewn with the overlocker without any problems and without puckering. This is due to the differential feed of the overlocker. It transports the fabric more evenly than the feed dog of the normal sewing machine.
What happens when jersey is sewn with the sewing machine?
The feed dog - that's the little metal ratchet teeth that stick out from under the sewing foot from the throat plate. Its job is to transport the fabric. And that's exactly what it does. It transports the fabric that lies on it while sewing.
So far, so good.
The problem is: It doesn't transport the fabric lying on top of it. It just tags along out of sympathy, so to speak. Because it doesn't really catch the top layer. So the lower fabric runs faster than the upper one.
The result: The seam distorts and puckers.
Can you blame it?
Can you do something about it? Of course!
My tips if the jersey puckers
Below I will give you my best tips for stubborn jersey that puckers while sewing.
Jersey edges roll up - what to do?
Jersey is basically knitted so that it doesn't fray. That's good in the first place.
Nevertheless, with some jersey fabrics, the cut edges roll up. And that makes processing really tricky.
My tip: Finish the edges! But not, as you know it from cotton fabric, directly at the cut edge, but 1/2 centimeter next to it. For this you can use a simple zigzag or a triple zigzag stitch.
It works even better if you stabilize the area beforehand with elastic form band*!
Sewing curves with jersey
A tip that is no longer so secret: Form band*, which can be ironed directly onto the jersey fabric, makes sewing curves easier and keeps them nicely in shape! It is cut on the bias and can therefore adapt well to the curves. Also great for stabilizing seams (for example shoulder seams!)!
Why an even-feed foot for jersey?
This explains itself, if you have understood the story with the feed dog. The fabric must run evenly into the machine. Then waves hardly have a chance.
For my Brother machine* (I have written a long article about how it once came into my possession... ;) ) I had to additionally purchase the (expensive) even-feed foot*. However, I didn't use it for jersey but exclusively for quilting blankets. How silly.
With the new Janome machine*, two even-feed feet were included. A narrow one and a wide one. That wasn't necessarily a deciding factor for the purchase, but it made the decision a little easier for me. ;)
But other components must also be added so that everything runs smoothly.
Sewing foot pressure when sewing with jersey
The problem: Jersey puckers if it gets too much sewing foot pressure.
The solution: The sewing foot pressure can be set to the lowest level for jersey. That is okay. Just try it out on a test piece beforehand!
Don't be afraid that the fabric won't be transported. The fabric feed dog takes care of that. And it works very well even at low sewing foot pressure!
Sewing speed for jersey
Even if your sewing machine can do 2000 stitches per minute - so, my Janome does 1000 stitches per minute - then that is much too fast for jersey.
You either have the option - if your machine can be regulated - to set the speed to medium to slow or you regulate the sewing speed with the pedal. Here you need a lot of foot sensitivity.
Elastic Stitch for Jersey
Jersey is a flexible material, which is why we like it so much—it drapes so beautifully. We also need to take this property into account when choosing a stitch.
That means: Jersey is best sewn with an elastic stitch. This can be an overlock or zigzag stitch, for example. Elastic stitches "go with" the fabric and prevent small holes from forming at the seam.
Here, the rule is to try out what your machine can do and how the fabric and stitch behave together. It's best to try it on a test piece!
Exception: If you sew with a twin needle, a regular straight stitch works perfectly too!
Don't Pull the Fabric!
You must never pull the fabric while sewing. We cotton sewers sometimes have a tendency to do this because it hardly makes a difference with cotton. But with jersey, it makes a huge difference. Even when it's not YOU pulling the fabric, but the fabric's own weight causing the seam you're sewing to stretch a little.
So always make sure that the fabric flows into the machine completely loose and free.
The Right Needle for Jersey
Jersey cannot be sewn well with a "normal" sewing machine needle. It is too sharp for this and could cut the fibers. Here, using a jersey-* or stretch needle* is recommended. This is because it has a rounded tip that prevents holes from forming in the fabric while sewing. I feel like I've said it 1000 times, but I'm happy to repeat it: When it comes to needles, there is currently no alternative for me other than Schmetz/Prym. Period.
For seams, a stretch twin needle* is absolutely necessary. The seams sewn with it look like they were bought, you will be amazed! And if you have the presser foot pressure set nicely low, practically no ridge forms between the two seams!
Differential Feed Balance Control on My Janome Sewing Machine
My Janome is a special case. I've known that for a while now.
Because it is particularly popular with quilting and patchwork fans, the top feed is practically its thing.
For this reason, unlike most commercially available sewing machines, this good piece has a differential feed balance control. It is designed to regulate the transport balance between the top and bottom. So if the top layer of fabric puckers, I set the control more towards the minus side.
If the bottom layer of fabric waves, I turn the control towards the plus side.
Depending on the properties of the sewn fabric, you have to play around with it a little until you find the right setting. And this playing around is exactly what is worth it!
Instructions: Avoid Waves in Jersey (Step by Step)
A seam finish sewn with the old sewing technique. Uaaah!
Okay, let's get started and revolutionize the jersey-wave world! ;)
- First, the normal needle is replaced with a twin needle (or jersey needle)...
- ...and insert the same type of thread into all the spools (i.e.: twice the upper thread, once the lower thread). I prefer to use the sewing thread from Gütermann*
- Thread the needle
- Now comes the big top feed moment!
- The presser foot holder is unscrewed...
- ...and the top feed foot is screwed on tightly
- Now lay both threads through the thread guide in the presser foot to the left
- Set the presser foot pressure to the lowest setting
- Regulate the sewing speed down. If in doubt, it's better to sew a little slower
- This is the moment with the Janome when I operate the differential feed balance control.
- Usually it is set to zero, with jersey I have to play around with it a little...
- And then you can get started with the first perfect, beautiful, smooth jersey seam!
- From the stripe you can see that I even sewed a rounded hem
- Which was actually unthinkable with my previous technique!
Good, right?
By the way, I simply finished the fabric edge of my shirt with the overlock, folded it once thumb-width and then sewed it from the right with the twin needle. No witchcraft, right?
Now I'm totally excited to finally sew a lot more shirts out of jersey!
Okay, so, I might be too old for cuffs - but not for great jersey fabrics!
Oh! :)
Extra tip for especially smooth jersey seams
You can also stabilize the hem of your shirts with a simple trick: By incorporating a strip of water-soluble embroidery stabilizer. This results in an incredibly smooth, even hem where the seam does not sink in. It also reduces the tunnel formation between the twin seams.
What you need for this method
- water-soluble embroidery stabilizer* in 2 cm wide strips
- Pencil or fabric pen
- Straight pins*
- Patchwork ruler*
- Twin needle
This is how it's done
Draw a mark on the back of the hem for the fabric fold.
Place a strip of the same width to the left of the mark.
Note: Avalon is delivered as a roll of embroidery stabilizer. You can very easily place several pieces one after another into the hem. You do not need a continuous strip. But if that makes it easier for you, you can connect several strips at the short ends with a short seam or with some removable fabric glue.
Fold the hem to the left over the stabilizer, so that the hem and the embroidery stabilizer end at the same height.
Pin all three layers well with straight pins. This is so important because we will sew the hem from the right and cannot check if something slips.
Now you can sew the hem from the right with the twin needle and a longer straight stitch. You can let the seam run over the hem edge, so that one needle pierces the top fabric and one pierces the hem edge.
But you can also let both needles pierce the hem edge.
Finished is a super smooth jersey hem!
Now you are ready for the jersey adventure! :) Sew something beautiful too! Here are all the points summarized again.
If you would like to hang the list, like I do, over your sewing table:
Right-click, save image and print.
Checklist: Jersey
- Optional: Is the differential feed balance control set correctly?
Happy simple sewing,
your Sabine
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