Sewing in a zipper and binding a zipper: Anyone who has ever sewn a cosmetic bag knows that the success of the project hinges on a neatly bound zipper. I'll show you how it works quite easily.
The most important things at a glance
- By binding the zipper ends, bag corners become particularly neat and can be perfectly shaped
- You can use fabric strips or pieces of bias tape to bind the zipper
- In this post, I will show you both methods and how you can subsequently sew in the prepared zipper
- You will also learn how to thread a zipper
- Sewing level: easy
- Sewing time: 15 min.
Sewing in a zipper and binding a zipper (2 methods)
There are several reasons to bind a zipper on the sides:
- You can do this to reduce the bulk created by seam allowances and excess fabric*
- Or to avoid breaking the needle* on the zipper teeth when sewing it together
- Or because the seam cannot be shaped properly after turning due to the teeth
- Or simply because it looks fantastic - both inside and out
In this post, I will show you how you can easily bind a zipper with bias tape (Method 1) and also with fabric strips (Method 2).
This is what the finished bound zipper with bias tape will look like:
What accessories do I need?
- approx. 10 cm cotton bias tape
- optional: tweezers*
- zippers*
- matching sewing thread*
- matching sewing needle (I recommend an 80 universal needle)
- pins* or fabric clips*
- ruler*
- marking pen* or tailor's chalk
- fabric scissors*
- thread snips*
- sewing machine
Sliding the puller onto the zipper
We start our little zipper excursion by sliding the slider, or puller, onto the zipper. And in such a way that the zipper is closed afterward.
Because that makes it much easier to bind it at both ends.
To make this work well, I would like to give you a few little tips.
You need a zipper and the matching puller.
Now look at the ends of the zipper. At one end, the teeth curve sideways downwards. It looks like this:
It looks a bit like the zipper is pouting. :)
At the other end, the sides of the row of teeth curve upwards. It looks like this:
THIS is the side on which we thread the puller.
Open the zipper a little bit by pulling it apart at the fabric.
Cut off the teeth on one side (which one you decide) about 1 - 2 cm. But only the teeth: the fabric remains.
Now you have a short and a long side of the teeth row.
Now thread the puller onto the long row of teeth.
Slide it a little bit onto the row.
Just far enough so that you can comfortably thread the short side as well.
You can press the two sides together a little bit for this.
The ends of the fabric should be at the same height.
When you turn the zipper, the teeth should lie nice and evenly. The zipper should not have a curve or a bump.
If that is the case: pull the slider back off and try again. You'll see: eventually it works almost automatically. :)
Now slide the puller a bit further onto the row and straighten the end of the zipper.
Done and ready to be bound! :)
Instructions: Sewing in a zipper – with bias tape
- In the photo, you can see: The bias tape* is not sewn into the side seam when finishing the bag
- For this, it is important that the finished bound zipper* has a distance of 1.5 centimeters from the bag edges on each side
- It must therefore be 3 centimeters shorter than the upper bag edge
- Start by cutting the zipper 2.5 centimeters shorter than the bag edge
- Sew the zipper coil with 1/2 centimeter distance from the end using a needle and thread
- Now cut away the 1/2 centimeter of teeth on the other side of the zipper and thread the puller on
- This works very well with tweezers, for example
- Or take a look at my tutorial where I show you how to thread an endless zipper
- Straighten the threading end where the teeth are missing
- Sew the zipper teeth together on this side as well
- It should look like this now:
- Now bind the zipper ends with bias tape:
- Place the bias tape under the presser foot with the open edge facing right and sew the open side shut for a few centimeters
- Then lift the presser foot and place the zipper into the resulting pocket
- I usually sew over the teeth with the handwheel, that way the seam becomes more even
- Trim the bias tape back to the width of the zipper
- Bind the second side the same way
- It should look like this now:
- Important when sewing together:
- Mark the center of both the bag and the zipper and use this mark as a guide when sewing them together
- Start and end the seam on the bias tape, not at the edge of the bag
- This is how neat the bound zipper looks from above.
- And from underneath:
Be sure to read everything about how to sew the transition at the zipper perfectly!
As you can see, it really takes no effort to conjure up a beautifully bound zipper!
We will proceed a little differently with the second method. The result also looks great!
Tutorial: Sewing in a zipper with fabric strips
You will need:
- a piece of cotton fabric* approx. 7x15 cm, reinforced on the back with Vlieseline H250* (I used one of those beautiful gold-printed fabrics from Rico Design)
- zipper*
- sewing needle*
- sewing thread*
- tweezers*
- sewing machine
- scissors* & embroidery scissors*
- patchwork ruler*
- With this method, the threaded zipper should also be 3 centimeters shorter than the bag edge
- Secure both sides of the prepared zipper here as well with a few stitches
- It should now look like this:
- Cut two fabric strips 15 centimeters long in the width of the zipper
- Fold the short ends towards each other with the right side of the fabric facing in and iron the crease
- Slide the prepared fabric strips over the zipper ends and fix everything with sewing clips
- The zipper ends should lie in the crease
- Sew the edge with a presser foot's width and backstitch at the start and end of the seam
- You can also sew over the teeth using the handwheel
- Fold the zipper cover to the other side and iron it. The right side is now back on the outside.
- Then you can topstitch the cover close to the edge
- Repeat these steps for the second zipper side
- Now you can sew in the zipper
- Use the center of the bag piece as a guide so that the zipper sits symmetrically
- Now you can topstitch the zipper and finish the bag as usual
- For this, be sure to also read my blog post on how to sew the area next to the zipper.
You can get the pattern for the "Alsterprinzessin" cosmetic bag, which I used to sew the cosmetic bags in this tutorial, here:
Happy simple sewing,
your Sabine
P.S.) Learn all about the secret of the perfect cosmetic bag here!
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