Sewing a topstitch: Proper topstitching gives your handmade projects a nice, professional look. With my tips & tricks, you will achieve the perfect topstitch!
What is a topstitch?
A topstitch is also sometimes called an edge stitch or decorative stitch. It is used on hems, necklines, or to secure pleats, seams, and tucks.
Because the stitch is clearly visible from the right side of the fabric, it is often used as a visual highlight on garments or bags.
Topstitches can be made with a sewing machine or with a coverstitch machine.
And, between us: A topstitch is often the reason people ask: "How?? Is that HOMEmade?!" :)
What is the difference between sewing a seam and topstitching?
Topstitching means: Multiple layers of fabric are sewn along a fabric edge using a standard stitch length, e.g., 2 - 2.5 mm.
When sewing a seam, on the other hand, you work with longer stitches: Here, depending on the material, a stitch length of 3.5 - 4 mm is often recommended. Topstitches can be done close to the edge, but they often run across the garment as well, e.g., on denim shirts.
In this post, I make no significant distinction between topstitching and basic sewing. That would only cause confusion.
Basically, suffice it to say here that as soon as the seam is clearly visible from the top, a longer stitch length is preferred.
What is understitching?
Understitching is used to hold a facing in place with a topstitch. This prevents the facings on necklines or armholes from rolling outward.
My tip for a perfectly understitched facing: Lay the garment so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing up. Smooth the facing out nicely. It is okay if the outer fabric ripples a bit or shows folds. However, these will not be sewn in! :)
The facing is stitched down, the seam allowances are trimmed, clipped along the curves, and pressed toward the folded-up facing. Then the facing is topstitched from the right side of the fabric, close to the attachment seam, catching the seam allowances in the process. Finally, the facing is folded to the inside.
Popular sewing tricks
Topstitching stitch length
What is the right stitch length for topstitching? Good question! My answer: Say goodbye to short, nervous stitches! Choose a long stitch length for visible seams. I like to use 3.5 - 4 millimeters and have great success with that.
Topstitches with a large stitch length look especially even!
Topstitching with a coverstitch machine
A coverstitch machine is perfect for creating beautiful topstitches! This is because it feeds the fabric particularly evenly.
You can also vary the stitch length on a coverstitch machine. It is best to test on a scrap piece of the fabric you are using.
My extra tip: Topstitches made with a coverstitch machine must be secured so they don't unravel. But that is very easy: At the end of the seam, pull the fabric backward out from under the presser foot. And there you have a secure coverstitch!
My extra-extra tip: If you notice while sewing that you don't like the look of your coverstitched topstitch, sew one or two stitches backward with the handwheel and then cut the threads a little longer. Now you can easily unravel the seam!
Topstitching with a decorative stitch
Decorative stitches are a great way to add a special highlight to your topstitch! By the way, this is not only possible with a simple sewing machine needle. Stunning decorative stitches can also be sewn with a twin needle. I have described how to do a decorative seam with a twin needle in a separate blog post for you.
Sewing a topstitch: Which presser foot?
When it comes to the selection of presser feet, there is quite a range of options for topstitching!
Sewing a topstitch with the edge-stitch foot
To get even spacing, I really like using the edge-stitch foot. It comes in various designs. The small guide "plows" through the seam and keeps the distance consistent.
You then just need to set the needle position so that you like the distance from the seam, and you are ready to go.
This is what an edge-stitch foot looks like:
Sewing a topstitch with the walking foot
A walking foot is also a very good, perhaps even the best, idea for topstitching! A walking foot is worth its weight in gold, especially with so-called difficult materials like oilcloth, leather, jersey, or sweat fabric!
It feeds the fabric very evenly because the small teeth on the underside work together exactly with the teeth of the feed dog under the presser foot. This "collegial teamwork" ensures optimal fabric feed—even and especially with multiple layers of fabric.
By the way, it is also great in combination with the twin needle!
Edge-stitch presser foot
A "normal" zigzag foot is also well-suited for topstitching. You can use a normal zigzag foot, especially for uncomplicated fabrics like simple cotton, canvas, or linen!
Topstitching fabric ripples
What actually happens if the fabric ripples? This happens especially with stretchy fabrics, for example jersey or sweat fabrics.
Ripples in the fabric can have various causes. Sometimes the presser foot pressure is too high. Often, however, the layers of fabric are not being fed evenly, or there is too much tension on the fabric.
I have prepared a very detailed post with a checklist for you on this topic. You are welcome to read it at your leisure. :)
Zipper ripples when topstitching
Blog readers often report that they are sewing things like jackets or blousons and then get really annoyed because the zipper ripples. They attribute this to the topstitches used to sew the zipper in place.
In my experience, the topstitch is not the culprit here: it is a zipper that is sized too long. If you are familiar with the problem of rippling, unevenly sitting zippers, feel free to take a look at my blog post on the topic of sewing in a zipper perfectly.
Topstitching with a twin needle
It is a great idea to sew topstitches with a twin needle. Especially if you are planning two adjacent stitches, e.g., on a shirt or a pair of jeans, the double seam will generally be cleaner (unless you possess magical skills!) if you sew it with a twin needle.
That doesn't just look great: with the twin needle, you can also catch and secure the opened seam allowances at the same time.
For this, press the seam allowances open with steam. The steam helps to prepare the fabric for the topstitch.
Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the seam is exactly in the middle.
Sew in the middle of the seam with a longer stitch length.
This is what the finished seam looks like:
For denim topstitching, lay the felled seam to one side and topstitch from the right side with jeans thread and a twin needle:
Topstitching jersey
Speaking of the twin needle: It is great for topstitching jersey hems! Of course, you can also combine the twin needle with the walking foot!
You can find all the tips for topstitching jersey in my blog post Sewing jersey without ripples.
A coverstitch machine also makes beautiful topstitches on jersey and sweat fabric. You should definitely test it out!
Topstitching faux leather and other adhesive fabrics
My secret favorite for working with fabrics that stick and cling to the presser foot? The walking foot! It lifts off the material repeatedly while sewing, which ensures a very clean feed.
Feel free to check out my tips for working with faux leather, vinyl, leather, and cork fabrics.
Topstitches on faux leather should also be sewn with a long stitch length. This makes them look nice and clean!
Sewing a topstitch: Which needle to use?
First things first: Your sewing machine needle should be appropriate for both the fabric and the thread chosen. The finer the thread weight, the thinner the sewing machine needle can be. Extra-fine sewing thread*, for example, has a weight of 150.
Using such extra-fine sewing thread works very well for topstitching garments made of silk or cupro.
Particularly fine sewing machine needles can have a size of 60, for example. This is the case for some Microtex needles*. They are also suitable for sewing silk.
For standard all-purpose thread, you can safely use a size 70 or 80 needle. This will keep your topstitching nice and clean, and the needle punctures relatively inconspicuous.
For heavy jeans thread*, a jeans needle* is perfect.
A little extra tip: I always use a new, sharp needle for highly visible topstitching. I often reach for titanium needles*. I also like using Teflon-coated needles*, so-called anti-glue or embroidery needles. I have had very good experiences with those!
Why is that? Titanium needles are very sharp, hard, and durable. They produce an absolutely great stitch formation! For me, titanium needles are a real discovery. You can recognize them by their gold-colored shank.
Coated embroidery needles offer similar properties. In addition, they feature an anti-adhesive coating.
Because the rule is: the more easily and smoothly the needle slides in and out of the fabric, the more even the topstitch will be. Logical, right?
Topstitch: Where to put the seam allowance?
The function of a topstitch is often to securely fix a seam allowance.
To do this, press the seam allowance to one side.
Note: If you are topstitching with a twin needle, you can also press the seam allowance open and fix it on both sides of the seam.
Then, topstitch the seam allowance evenly with one or two lines of stitching.
Which thread is suitable for sewing a topstitch?
To produce durable topstitches, you should use high-quality thread. An all-purpose thread* is generally a good choice for all kinds of topstitching.
However, if you want to topstitch a denim seam, for example, a jeans thread* is even more suitable. And it might also fit the style of your project better. Topstitches sewn with jeans thread are also very durable and create a visual highlight.
Jeans threads are available in sets that match common denim colors. Be sure to try topstitching denim fabrics tone-on-tone. It can look very cool!
You have a larger color selection with extra-strong threads. You can use them for more than just creating pretty topstitches: they are also perfect for buttonholes!
For the bobbin thread, especially when using extra-strong threads, you should always stick to an all-purpose thread.
Stabilizing fabric: Here's how!
The more stable and firm a fabric is, the easier it is to feed and topstitch. You can pre-treat your fabrics before sewing.
This can be done very well with simple liquid starch. You can either starch the entire piece of fabric or use spray starch for specific fabric sections, such as the seams.
The advantages of starch* are obvious:
- it is natural and biodegradable
- it washes out very easily
- you have full control over how firm the fabric should be
Instead of spray starch, I sometimes starch my fabrics with Fabric Booster*. This is magical stuff that can make fabrics practically stiff as a board.
However, it often takes several washes to remove the booster completely.
You should definitely test on a small scrap of fabric beforehand to see if your fabric tolerates the booster.
Another way to stiffen fabrics and seams before topstitching is to use stabilizers that dissolve when washed. I have had good experiences with Soluvlies* (made by Freudenberg, the company that also makes Vlieseline) and Avalon* (manufacturer: Madeira). Both materials are very economical and also great for embroidery and appliqué.
A very inexpensive way to stabilize fabrics before topstitching is to place a piece of tissue paper* under the seam. Especially with long stitch lengths, the paper is very easy to tear away after sewing.
The tissue paper can also be used as a "carrier film" if, for example, you want to topstitch silk, cupro, viscose, or other slippery fabrics.
What thread tension when sewing a topstitch?
Thread tension can play an important role in topstitching. On most sewing machines, the thread tension can be adjusted steplessly.
My tip: Try to turn the thread tension down a bit. It is usually set to automatic. In my experience, the most beautiful topstitches are achieved with a thread tension of 2 - 4.
This is what the topstitch looks like from underneath with the correct thread tension
You did everything right if the needle thread is only visible on top and the bobbin thread is only visible on the bottom, as shown here with my jeans seam:
What to do with the threads at the start of the seam?
To prevent the thread from tangling or getting over-sewn at the start of the seam, pull both the needle and bobbin threads back behind the presser foot and hold them while sewing the first few stitches. This simultaneously prevents the fabric from being pulled into the needle plate.
This is often a problem, especially with soft, elastic fabrics, which you can solve in this way.
All questions answered?
Then nothing stands in the way of your first perfect topstitch! Try it out on a nice softshell jacket, for example!
One last tip: Don't forget to iron!
A pressed topstitch has the chance to "set." The steam smoothes the fibers and the overall stitch pattern looks more even and beautiful! :)
Happy simple sewing,
your Sabine
Frequently Asked Questions | FAQ
Sewing a topstitch: Why is it important?
Which presser foot can be used for topstitching?
Why does the fabric pucker when topstitching?
Comments
Comments are loading …