Reinforcing fabrics is a useful way to emphasize or support the material's properties. In this article, we'll show you which Vlieseline is suitable for which fabric – and what you should keep in mind.
The most important points at a glance
- In this post, everything revolves around the topic of reinforcing fabrics, Vlieseline, and how to use it
- We look at the correct way to handle interlinings and stabilizers
- Learn how to properly attach Vlieseline to fabric
- And we explore the material properties of different types of Vlieseline
Vlieseline has magical powers. Don't believe it? How else would you explain that you can sew a firm cosmetic bag out of Nicki fabric from super-soft Nicki fabric with a little Vlieseline without batting an eyelash? Take a look:
Want to do the same? Then read this post now to find out how to get the most out of the fabrics in your stash, and what you should consider so that everything works just the way you imagined. These tips were put together for us by Vlieseline expert and DIY author Jeannette Knake. You might know her from the Vlieseline podcasts by SewSimple:
- Podcast episode: Perfect Vlieseline management
- Podcast episode: Reinforcing stretchy fabrics
- Podcast episode: Reinforcing non-elastic fabrics
Reinforcing fabrics: General questions about Vlieseline & Co.
In our blog post Vlieseline, Interlinings, Fleece & Co., I already introduced many types of Vlieseline. In this post, we want to focus on finding the right Vlieseline for specific tasks. And, of course, we will clarify fundamental questions about the topic of reinforcing fabrics. Naturally, I also have many suitable sewing ideas, tutorials, and patterns for you that you can implement with Vlieseline. I hope you enjoy our information!
What is Vlieseline?
Vlieseline refers to iron-on fleece, interlinings, and other products from the Freudenberg company. The Vlieseline label covers various types of interlinings, woven fabrics, knits, and non-wovens used to reinforce and shape fabrics.
YouTube tutorial on reinforcing fabrics
Why should I reinforce fabrics?
Perhaps you are dealing with the topic of reinforcing fabrics for the first time and are wondering what is behind it. Reinforcing means supporting.
We reinforce fabrics to...
- maintain the fit for a long time
- prevent fabrics from fraying
- avoid distortion of fabrics
- make seams more durable
- give sewing projects a special look
- make sewing easier and more sustainable
How can you make fabrics firmer?
Sometimes fabrics need more shape, stability, or grip to be suitable for specific sewing projects.
By ironing on or sewing on fleece and interlinings, fabrics become firmer. This simultaneously means they have more grip, stability, and shape retention. These are properties that Vlieseline interlinings, for example, add to fabric.
This also applies to fabrics in the clothing sector. Here, you sometimes need suitable interlinings or iron-on fleece to reinforce collars, facings, or pocket flaps. You can easily find the right Vlieseline interlining for your fabric in the Vlieseline 1x1, which you can download for free from the Vlieseline website.
How do you stabilize fabric?
Generally, a distinction is made between clothing stabilization and the ability to make bags or decorative items stable through the use of fleece. If it involves small parts or surface stabilization, there is a suitable selection of fleeces and interlinings available in the clothing or creative range.
In principle: The fleece must match the fabric as well as the planned project.
Which Vlieseline for reinforcing?
There are many different types of Vlieseline with which you can reinforce both stretchy and non-elastic fabrics. Depending on whether you are working with cotton (firm fabrics), flexible fabrics (jersey), or very light fabrics, suitable interlinings are commercially available. For example:
- For stretchy fabrics: Vlieseline H609*
- For non-elastic fabrics: Vlieseline G700*
Which Vlieseline for light fabrics?
Vlieseline changes or reinforces the properties of the processed fabric. Therefore, it is important to apply a suitable interlining to very light fabrics.
A few examples:
- Vlieseline G 785* as a woven fabric is the perfect interlining for light, fine materials
- Vlieseline G 785 in skin color can also achieve a more opaque effect behind lace
- Vlieseline H 180* and H 200* can also be used for small parts
How much does quilt batting cost?
Depending on the size of the object and the variety of model details, a little quilt batting goes a long way. For a patchwork quilt, you need significantly more material because large surfaces naturally require more interlining than, for example, the size of a potholder. Most fleeces cost around 10 Euros depending on the width.
Which side of the Vlieseline should be ironed onto the fabric?
Ironing on refers to Vlieseline interlinings with an adhesive backing = adhesive surface.
This side generally feels slightly rough and is ironed onto the reverse side of the fabric. You can iron from the fabric side to be sure you haven't ironed any wrinkles into the fixed fabric. However, ironing also works perfectly well from the fleece, woven, or knit side.
For beginners, ironing from the fabric side is usually easier.
What do the numbers on Vlieseline mean?
Vlieseline names almost always consist of a letter-number combination. At Freudenberg, this is a product designation method. The numbers provided do not indicate the thickness or the type of processing of the Vlieseline.
Why use fleece when sewing?
Fleece changes, emphasizes, or reinforces the properties of the fabric. Often, seams become more stable if the fabric has been reinforced beforehand. The sewing machine or even the overlock seam looks better because there is more "fabric" for the machine to grip.
How do you iron fleece onto fabric?
I am asked again and again how to iron Vlieseline onto fabric.
The most important instruction: Do not slide. That is: Iron with or without a damp cloth (this is product-dependent) and press for 8-15 seconds per iron surface area, depending on the recommendation.
My tip: You can find the exact ironing time and the note on whether steam should be used on the edge print of the fleece or in the product description.
Very important: After ironing, you should let the fleece cool down completely. This can take up to half an hour. During cooling, the plastic film that melted due to the heat of the iron sets and bonds with the fabric.
Which sewing tasks can be managed or simplified with Vlieseline?
You can make many sewing steps easier by using fleeces and interlinings. Or, often, make them possible in the first place.
Cutting edge reinforcement or cutting edge fixation, for example, are essential improvements that you can achieve by applying a suitable fleece to the edges.
For example, jersey edges stop curling after fixing with Vlieseline H609*. Hems and clothing pieces remain flat, smooth, and do not lose their shape.
Does Vlieseline have a grain line?
You can use many needle-punched fleeces in both longitudinal and transverse directions.
However, Vlieseline still has a grain line: In the longitudinal direction as seen from the roll. Various interlinings have an edge print – you can use this as an orientation when working with pre-cut yardage. The edge print runs on the left and right sides.
Which Vlieseline is the strongest?
There are many very stable Vlieseline variants.
The firmest is Vlieseline S 133* – This is a stiffener (pelmet/buckram) that is either inserted or must at least be turned carefully. This stiffener is generally cut without seam allowance because it is so firm.
Another very firm Vlieseline is Decovil, which has a leather-like feel and is suitable for sewing bags, school satchels, and backpacks.
Hot tip: S133 is also excellent for cap brims, such as those on baseball caps!
What is more durable - non-woven interlining or woven interlining?
This depends on the specific project. If you handle your self-sewn items with care—meaning you don't overstretch the surfaces—you can work very successfully with non-woven fleece. Woven interlinings are more resilient, as they consist of threads.
Is there a kind of basic Vlieseline equipment that you should always have at home?
There are a few Vlieseline variants that you should always have ready if you like to sew clothes or bags. Of course, the selection of interlinings and fleeces is mainly based on which fabrics you want to reinforce and which projects you want to tackle.
A possible basic kit could look like this:
Reinforcing jersey
- Vlieseline H 609* as surface reinforcement, for fabric edges, collars, and facings
- flexible seam tape* for necklines and armholes
- Stretchfix T 30* for seamless hems, simply ironed on
Reinforcing cotton fabrics and viscose woven goods
- here, depending on the area of application and project, everything from H 180 to G74 is possible
Reinforcing bag fabrics
- large bags can be well reinforced with Decovil light*, S 320*, or S133*
- smaller bags: H 200, H250, G700, G710*, H640*, H630, and many more.
- organizers, small pouches, or laptop bags: from Style-Vil* – to P 250 – this is also where natural mix batting comes into play
Is there Vlieseline made from recycled fibers?
Yes, and in the future, there will be more and more products that meet sustainable standards.
Want an example? The R 200 and R 80 – here the numbers correspond to the weights of the batting types. But recycled interlinings can also be found in the clothing sector. Vlieseline R200 is particularly fluffy and is great for quilt making.
Some of the interlinings consist partly, others entirely, of recycled fibers.
R80 is a sewable quilt batting that is great for sewing bags and toiletry bags.
How do I know which Vlieseline is suitable for which fabric?
It's really confusing, isn't it? But don't worry, in the Vlieseline 1x1 you can look up which fleece is suitable for which fabric and also for which project.
On the Vlieseline website, you will find lots of information on every fleece. This includes how elastic a fleece is, how it is ironed on, what it is made of, and which fabric it matches. Furthermore, you can also download the data sheet. This is practical because you can, for example, file the data sheets with a small sample of the Vlieseline and then use them for reordering.
This is what the information looks like that you can find about every Vlieseline on the Freudenberg website, for example.
What is the difference between interlining and iron-on fleece?
An interlining is sewn in. It has no adhesive dots. An iron-on fleece has adhesive dots and is ironed on.
How can I fix hems without sewing?
To fix hems without sewing, you can use seam tape. In the Vlieseline tape range, you will find the right tape for every fabric type.
Important: For stretchy fabrics, you should also use a stretchy seam tape so that the hem remains flexible and durable.
How can you store Vlieseline?
If you have the option to store Vlieseline on cardboard rolls, either upright or lying down: perfect. Otherwise, you can also fold most interfacings and fleeces. Store them in a dry place and, if possible, not exposed to UV radiation.
If possible, you should not fold very firm interfacings like heavy-duty craft interfacing or Decovil, because the creases may not be removable later.
How do you perform a pressing test with Vlieseline?
It is always a good idea to test beforehand on a fabric scrap whether the fabric reinforced with fleece actually looks the way you imagined.
This is easily done by ironing the interfacing onto a scrap piece of the fabric you are using. Afterwards, you should test if everything works well by checking the feel and doing a few test stitches.
Why is Vlieseline available in different colors?
Have you ever noticed that some Vlieseline variants are also available in skin tone or anthracite? This is so clever because it allows you to have the matching interfacing for your fabric color.
You can remember the following rule of thumb for which fleece color matches which fabric color:
- Light fabrics = white fleece
- Dark fabrics = graphite or black
- Transparent fabrics = G 785 skin tone
What is Solufix?
Solufix is a self-adhesive, water-soluble embroidery stabilizer. Perfect for surface design, embroidery and effect techniques, a helper for buttonhole embroidery, and more.
What can I use Solufix for? E.g.:
- Thread painting + appliqué technique
- 3D embroidery
- Cord lettering or ornament embroidery
- For all fabrics to be embroidered
- Whether embroidery machine or sewing machine embroidery – simply perfect, as it is washable
Jeannette’s point tip
What is the secret behind the adhesive dots on Vlieseline?
Actually, it’s not a secret but a good hint to find the right Vlieseline for your fabric. We at Vlieseline call the adhesive dots, i.e., the plastic dots on the back of iron-on fleece, "adhesive mass dots."
You can simply remember:
- The larger the adhesive mass dots – the heavier the fabric
- The smaller/finer the adhesive mass dots – the finer the fabric
Large adhesive dots are an indication that the fabric will be stiffer after ironing and cooling down.
Reinforcing elastic fabrics
Who doesn't know them: the curled edges of jersey and French Terry, the sloppy t-shirt hems, the baggy knees and seat parts of sweatpants. But hey, you can do something about it! In this section, let's take a closer look at how you can reinforce elastic fabrics and what you should keep in mind.
Sabine’s cutting tip
With soft fabrics, I always reinforce a sufficiently large piece of fabric beforehand, from which I then cut the facings, etc.
Why? Because soft, stretchy fabrics can warp when ironed. Often you have to re-cut, and then it becomes inaccurate!
Why should I reinforce elastic fabrics?
Using fleeces and interfacings can make working with stretchy fabrics considerably easier. It's not just about reinforcing, but also about pattern stability. With the right iron-on interfacing, for example H609 or G785, you can process jersey and other stretchy fabrics without warping or curling edges.
By the way, because of its bi-elasticity, H609 is also brilliant for surface fixation in the seat or elbow area or for stabilizing specific areas, for example near ties, eyelets, or necklines. And, of course, for sewing buttonholes.
H609 has the wonderful property of bonding very firmly with the fabric quickly. It is soft and comfortable to wear and also allows the jersey to retain its elasticity. Definitely one of my Vlieseline all-rounders!
Do elastic fabrics lose their material properties if I reinforce them?
By ironing on iron-on fleece & Co., a fabric can change. Therefore, it is fundamentally important that you use a fleece that exactly matches the fabric type and project used.
Example: Jersey T-Shirt
If you have a soft, stretchy jersey and want to sew a T-shirt, you can reinforce the neckline areas, the fabric edges, the hem, and the facings with Vlieseline H609*. This makes the fabric more stable and easier to work with. The seams become more stable and the hems smoother. Nevertheless, the fabric retains its stretchiness.
Example: Sewing a jersey cosmetic bag
Do you have a bit of fabric left over from your T-shirt? Then you can use it to sew a cosmetic bag. This time, you reinforce the fabric beforehand with a non-stretchy fleece. For example, with Decovil light. And, oh wonder: after cooling down, your jersey feels almost like a piece of faux leather! It has lost its stretchiness and can be transformed into a shape-retentive bag. Brilliant, right?
In principle, however: a favorite piece is often worn and washed. The fabric is supported in its fit by correctly used fleece.
Which elastic fabrics can I reinforce?
There is no elastic fabric that cannot be reinforced. The table gives you information about which fleece can reinforce elastic fabrics:
| Fabric type | Suitable iron-on fleece |
| Cotton jersey | G 785, H 609, flexible seam tape (for edges & hems), Stretchfix T 30 (surface for appliqué), Stretchfix hem tape, T 15 |
| Viscose jersey | G 785, H 609, flexible seam tape (for edges & hems), Stretchfix T 30 (surface for appliqué), Stretchfix hem tape, T 15 |
| Stretchy woven fabric | G 785, H 609, flexible seam tape (for edges & hems), Stretchfix T 30 (surface for appliqué), Stretchfix hem tape |
| French Terry | G 785, H 609, flexible seam tape (for edges & hems), Stretchfix T 30 (surface for appliqué), Stretchfix hem tape |
| Gauze | H 609, G785, Solufix for easy attachment of e.g. button plackets on muslin blouses |
| Coarse knit fabric | G 770 |
| Fine knit fabric | H 607 in the horizontal grain (prevents warping), T 15 |
How do I reinforce elastic fabrics?
It depends on which stretchy fabric you want to work with. My tip: Try reinforcing fabrics with H 609 cut into strips or over the entire surface. This works great not only when sewing shirts but also for blazers and jackets. All curling edges can also be fixed with the flexible seam tape T15.*
Also Vlieseline G785* works excellently with most elastic fabrics.
Jeannette’s tip: Please no stay tape in form-fitting patterns! This can negatively affect the sewing result.
Reinforcing jersey with elastic edge tape
Elastic edge tape is ironed onto the wrong side of the jersey edges you want to reinforce.
Here you can clearly see the difference between reinforced (top) and unreinforced (bottom).
Which Vlieseline is suitable for cotton jersey?
With single jersey, the curling fabric edges are often the biggest challenge. To make cotton jersey easy to handle, you can reinforce the stretchy fabric very well with Vlieseline H 609* or with flexible seam tape T15*. With interlock, we have less to deal with curling edges, but the fabric is often very soft. Here, too, Vlieseline H609 helps to tame the fabric.
Important: Vlieseline H609 is bi-elastic but stretches more in one direction than the other. You should iron the Vlieseline on in the same direction of stretch in which the fabric stretches the most.
Which fleece for curling jersey edges?
Based on my experience, I can say that Vlieseline H 609 and flexible seam tape help best here. Simply cut your pattern piece and iron the 1.5 to 2 cm wide Vlieseline H 609* or the pre-cut seam tape* onto the fabric edges (wrong side of the fabric) with light pressure (without pushing).
Why is reinforced jersey easy to process with an overlock?
By reinforcing jersey, you can significantly simplify sewing with the overlock.
This is because, for example...
- the cut and fabric edges do not curl after reinforcing
- the overlock seams "grip" more fabric
- the seams do not warp
Which Vlieseline is suitable for viscose jersey?
Viscose or modal jersey are often particularly soft and flexible. What makes the material so pleasant to wear also causes one or two nervous breakdowns while sewing. But don't worry, there is suitable iron-on fleece: Vlieseline H 609* and flexible seam tape*.
Possibly Vlieseline G 785* in the bias cut. Due to the bias cut of the fleece, the elasticity increases. You know this phenomenon from bias tape.
How can I prevent eyelets from tearing out?
Especially with flexible fabrics, it happens that metal eyelets tear out. You can prevent this by stabilizing the fabric. For jersey, for example, this works like this: Cut small circles out of Vlieseline G 700 and iron them on. For more reinforcement, you are welcome to iron on double circles.
Do you love hoodies, but don't dare to make them anymore because of the tearing eyelets? Then Jeannette has a great tip for you:
With sweat fabric and French Terry, you can cut Decovil I light into small circles, iron them on, and let them cool down well. For cutting out the circles (I always keep some in stock), the rotary circle cutter from Prym* is really practical. I've been using it for ages not only for fleeces but also for patchwork and appliqués.
Reading tip: Attaching eyelets
Did you actually know that you can also sew eyelets?
Do I have to reinforce sweat fabric?
There are different types of sweat fabric, for example, Alpenfleece, which has a fluffy backing, sweat with elastane, and without. Depending on the processing or material, the fabric edges can also curl with sweat fabric.
Reinforcing is therefore not necessarily the order of the day; it depends on the pattern and the material. However, fixing pattern edges is recommended, says Jeannette. 😊
How can I reinforce swimwear?
Here it is not about "reinforcing" but about maintaining the stable pattern shape. Framilastic T 9 or T 6 helps here. Since you sew over a pulled stretchy tape here, the 9mm wide one with higher accuracy is recommended for beginners. T 6 = 6mm is more for experienced sewers.
How do I use Framilastic?
You can use Framilastic for different sewing tasks:
- To stabilize the shape, for example with underwear or swimwear
- To gather or ruffle fabric
For swimwear or for sewing your own underwear, processing with the overlock and the sewing machine works great. I show you here in an example how you can sew panties out of cotton jersey with Framilastic.
Step 1
Close the crotch and side seams with the overlocker
Step 2
Sew the Framilastic unstretched onto the left side of the fabric edges. Position it directly against the edge and sew over it with the overlocker.
Work in such a way that as little fabric as possible is trimmed off.
Step 3
Let the end of the Framilastic tape overlap slightly and trim it.
In this way, you also sew the Framilastic to the second leg opening and the waist opening.
This is what it should look like now.
Step 4
Fold the finished fabric edges 1 cm to the left side and pin them in place.
Step 5
Topstitch the hems to the outer fabric using an elastic stitch.
For this, you can use, for example, a zigzag, a triple zigzag, or another elastic stitch of your choice.
Important: Use a jersey needle and, if necessary, sew with a walking foot.
If you have a coverstitch machine, that can also be used.
This is what it looks like then. I worked with a straight stitch using Seraflex (the elastic sewing thread from Mettler) and also with a narrow triple zigzag.
Try out what works best for your fabric and your machine.
This method is great for beautiful, dimensionally stable hems that aren't bulky.
How do I use Stretchfix?
Stretch interfacing is for stretchy fabrics what Vliesofix is for non-stretch fabrics.
The stretchy applique interfacing for stretch fabrics is a real all-rounder. You can simply iron it on just like Vliesofix. This fantastic interfacing allows you to create stretchy appliques on stretchy fabrics. This guarantees that the appliques won't tear or fray, and will stay beautiful for a long time.
How do I use flexible seam tape?
Flexible seam tape is ironed onto the back of the fabric edges. It is suitable for cutting edges and also shoulder seams of all stretchy pattern pieces. It is also great for preventing shoulder seams from stretching out and getting longer... ;)
Which Vlieseline is suitable for which stretchy fabric?
We distinguish between stretchy fabric and stretch fabrics – with maximum stretch = H 609 and flexible seam tape. You can find a table for this further up in this post.
Why does flexible seam tape make elastic fabrics more durable?
By ironing on flexible seam tape* or Vlieseline H 609, which you have pre-cut into strips, you can make your seams more durable. This is because the interfacing "doubles" the fabric.
You will notice this very clearly when sewing with an overlocker or sewing machine: the machines grip more fabric. This makes the seams only minimally thicker, but at the same time much nicer and more durable.
Here, I reinforced jersey with Vlieseline H609.
Result: The fabric retains its suppleness but does not roll up at the edges.
Big plus: The overlock seams become super clean and very stable.
Which interfacing can I use for surface stabilization on elastic fabrics?
To prevent the seat, knee, chest, or elbow areas of garments from bagging, you can reinforce them beforehand or even afterwards with Vlieseline H 609. The soft, flexible iron-on interfacing bonds with the fabric in a flash and holds perfectly.
Which interfacing should I use for appliques on stretchy fabrics?
For appliques on stretchy fabrics, Stretchfix is best. It stabilizes the fabric while ensuring that the applique remains stretchy. This prevents the applique from tearing when the fabric is stretched, for example, when putting on and taking off clothes or during washing.
Reading tip: Sewing jersey with a sewing machine
What can I use to reinforce stretchy fabric before embroidering?
To prevent the embroidered surface from rubbing against the skin, you can iron Vlieseline H 609 on the back. Especially if polyester thread was used as the bobbin thread, this can make the embroidery area wonderfully comfortable to wear.
What can I use to reinforce coarse knit fabric?
For many sewing fans, reinforcing knit fabrics is a challenge. You have the following options:
- Is the fabric stretchy = Vlieseline H 609* or G 770 on the bias, flexible seam tape*
- Is the fabric non-stretchy = G 770, G 700, G 740*
It is important to follow the ironing time for the Vlieseline and, if necessary, use a damp pressing cloth so as not to flatten the knit.
What can I use to reinforce boiled wool?
Reinforcing is often not the issue with boiled wool, but rather: "How do I prevent the fabric from distorting?".
Here you can, for example, use G 770 or Vlieseline H 609* in the longitudinal direction. Important: Definitely do a test press first.
A good alternative is the use of interfacings with stabilizing threads, such as Vlieseline H 410. Here you can watch a video on using Vlieseline H410.
Reinforcing non-stretch fabrics
Non-stretch fabrics can and should also be reinforced, depending on the sewing idea and pattern. You should always ensure that your reinforcement is suitable for both the fabric and its intended use. A collar reinforced with an overly stiff interfacing can rub quite uncomfortably against the neck, if you know what I mean... ;)
Reading tip: Reinforcing cosmetic bags
Which Vlieseline is suitable for reinforcing collars, cuffs?
That depends on the fabric used. The lighter the fabric, the lighter the iron-on interfacing should be. In case of doubt, you should try out on a fabric scrap whether the reinforced fabric feels comfortable. Just as you would imagine it to be for a collar or cuffs that are worn directly against the skin.
A few examples of interfacings suitable for reinforcing collars and cuffs:
Which Vlieseline is suitable for large-area reinforcement?
Sometimes you need more than spot reinforcement or stabilizing small fabric sections. If you want to reinforce the front section of a jacket or the shoulder area of a blouse, for example, Vlieseline H 410 or G 700 are good choices.
Jeannette says: "Cotton interfacings are always more contemporary because they are made from renewable raw materials and are very hard-wearing!"
What are lightweight fabrics?
The grammage of a fabric provides information about its weight. Grammage means: how many grams does 1 meter of the fabric weigh. The thicker and heavier the fabric, the higher the grammage. Lightweight fabrics include, for example:
- Cotton batiste
- Voile
- Organza
- Taffeta
- Blouse and dress fabrics
- Viscose
- Silk fabrics
- Modal
- Cupro
What are medium-weight fabrics?
I am not aware of a fixed definition, but in principle, the following fabrics can be assigned to the "medium-weight" category:
- Cotton fabrics such as patchwork fabrics
- French Terry
- Sweatshirt fabrics
- Knit fabrics
What are heavy fabrics?
Heavy fabrics are, for example
- Wool fabrics
- Boiled wool
- Canvas
- Denim
Which Vlieseline for lightweight fabrics?
These types of Vlieseline are perfectly suited for lightweight fabrics:
Which Vlieseline for medium-weight fabrics?
Medium-weight fabrics like denim & Co require slightly different reinforcement depending on the sewing project. Suitable interfacings are, for example:
Which Vlieseline for heavy fabrics?
For heavy fabrics, the following types of Vlieseline are suitable:
Which seam tape for hems with blind stitch (and how does it work)?
You can wonderfully use "Perfektsaum" (perfect hem) for this. It is a somewhat wider hem tape. Well, actually, it is two tapes that lie on top of each other with the adhesive sides facing outwards and are connected by a blind stitch.
Due to the fine seam, the hem does not show through even on thin fabrics. Perfect for skirts, blouses, or dresses made of woven fabric. Perfektsaum is made from Vlieseline G785, which is why it is not stretchy and therefore only suitable for non-elastic fabrics or for round-cut hems.
Which tape for finishing seams?
For stiff fabrics, you can use edge tape very well. The base material is Vlieseline H 410. It can also be "torn" into strips, as many seams run within the fleece.
Reinforcing non-elastic fabrics with edge tape
So that the diagonally cut fabric edges of necklines and armholes do not become deformed or fray, you can reinforce them with non-elastic edge tape.
For this, the edge tape is ironed flush onto the fabric edge. The seam of the edge tape lies next to the fabric edge.
How can I fix straight cut edges?
For some fine fabrics, it makes sense to also reinforce the straight cut edges, because this makes the seams more durable and the shape of the sewn part more stable. I like to use edge tape or Vlieseline H 410 cut into strips for this purpose.
How can I stabilize round cut edges?
Round or curved cut edges sometimes really have to be treated like a raw egg because they stretch nastily and lose their shape when you work with them. That is why it is sensible to stick the edges. For firm, stiff fabrics, "Formband" (shape tape) is an ideal little helper here. Alternatively, it is also great to cut a strip from the G 785, or H 609* in the longitudinal direction and iron it on.
What can I use to reinforce baby nests?
Baby nests should be soft, warming, and washable. Therefore, Jeannette recommends an easy-care decorative batting or filling wadding for this. This is available from Vlieseline in 1 kg bags. Depending on the size of the baby nest, you should plan for 1-2 kilos of filling wadding.
By the way: Do you already know our baby nest sewing pattern? It is also available for twins and larger children!
Additionally, for example as a lying surface, Vlieseline P 250 is also suitable. It is a very thick polyester wadding that cushions well and is easy to care for. It consists to a large extent of recycled fibers and comes with a flame-retardant finish. So also perfect for crawling blankets, grasping toys & Co.
Which fleece for diaper bags?
Depending on the respective pattern you want to use to sew your diaper bag, you have the choice between different fleeces. The most common Vlieseline types for diaper bags are these:
- 268 Bamboo Mix
- 279 Cotton Mix
- 276 bleached Cotton
- 278 Soyamix
- 272 Thermolam – if you don't want to use a natural mix
- Vlieseline H630*
- Vlieseline H640*
Example: Diaper bag XXL
For diaper and changing bags, I like working with natural fleeces because they are soft and compact and easy to process. With a little temporary spray adhesive (I use the adhesive from ODIF*), the fleeces are attached to the back of the fabric in no time.
The spray adhesive disappears with the first wash and the fleece is fixed in the seams.
Which interfacings for tablet cases and bags with shock protection?
For some bags, cases, covers, or pouches you might not only want structure and fullness but also to "build in" protection. Then you should resort to a fleece with which you can cushion your bag well. This works best with a foam fleece or a foam interfacing.
My favorites are Style-Vil* and Style-Vil Fix*. Both are flexible foam fleeces. The only difference: Style-Vil is sewn in, Style-Vil Fix is ironed on.
Style-Vil in action: For this bag, I quilted the fabric onto Style-Vil with a long stitch length and then cut it to the desired dimensions.
This foot-width quilting is also called "cord quilting" or "cord look".
Which fleece for fanny packs?
For fanny packs, cross-body bags, sling bags, belt bags, and other bags worn on the body, not only the look should play a role – here it is also important that the bag feels comfortable when worn.
Depending on the pattern, almost all fleeces are possible. These fleeces and interfacings are particularly recommended:
- Style-Vil* – looks great when fabrics with topstitching are sewn onto it
- Style-Vil Fix*
- Vlieseline H630* (rather small fanny packs)
- Vlieseline H640* (larger fanny packs)
- Decovil light*
- Vlieseline G700* (especially great for lining fabrics if the outer fabric is also reinforced)
- Thermolam – is sewn in, also great for quilting fabrics on or for quilting
- Soya-Mix or Cotton Mix – perfect for quilt-as-you-go or patchwork
- Vlieseline S 320 – adds no volume but only stability, great for small fanny packs
You can find more info here: Blog post sew fanny pack – the 20+ crucial tricks
Which fleece for simple cotton bags and shopping bags?
To get more stability in a simple cotton bag, you can process it surface-wide with H200. If you want to give the shopping bag higher durability and stability, you can reinforce not only the lining but also the outer fabric with the fleece.
But edge tape can also be used for simple cotton bags. By ironing the edge tape onto the fabric edges, you stabilize the shape of the bag and make the seams more durable.
The sewing pattern for the pretty shopping bag with drawstring can be found in my book Näh doch einfach!*
Which fleece for carrying straps?
Here it depends on how big the planned bag should be. For large bags that might be heavily loaded, reinforce the bag straps with Style Vil* or Style Vil Fix*. A good alternative is Bundfix,* which can also be used to sew belts or to reinforce waistband areas.
Here is how it's done:
- Iron Bundfix onto the wrong side of the carrying strap cut
- Fold fabric edges double lengthwise inwards
- Iron everything well
- Topstitch fabric edges lengthwise close to the edge with a longer straight stitch
What can I use to reinforce bag straps?
Here it depends on your personal preferences. Do you like your bag straps somewhat cushioned? Then you can use a volume fleece. For lighter bag straps, for example for small shoulder bags, you can also use simple woven interfacing well. Jeannette recommends the following fleeces:
- all volume fleece types are possible
- alternatively: Vlieseline G 700*
- G 740
- Bundfix* (available in different widths!)
Which fleece for accordion bags?
Accordion bags are great for transporting valuable contents well protected. Jeannette recommends Decovil I and Decovil I light for accordion bags, as both can be processed flat.
Why should I iron armholes with Vlieseline?
Both with stretchy and firm fabrics, the armholes can unpleasantly deform during sewing and pinning. To prevent this from happening, it is a good idea to stick a suitable fleece onto the fabric before sewing. Then the fabric remains dimensionally stable at this point and can be processed accurately.
How can I attach hems with fleece without sewing them?
Depending on the fabric, there are various possibilities to fix hems with fleece. The advantage: No seam is visible and hemming goes lightning fast.
These tapes are therefore well suited for hemming without a seam:
- Perfekt Saum* T40 = Blind stitch hem tape for firm fabrics
- Kantenfix* = with perforation
- Stretchfix T30* – for stretchy fabrics
- Saumfix WundaWeb* – surface adhesive for extra strong hems on firm, stiff fabrics like denim, linen, canvas, corduroy & Co.
Reading tip: Sewing hems
Step 1
Iron the hem over to the width of the hem interfacing being used.
Finish the fabric edge beforehand if necessary.
Step 2
Place the fusible tape into the fold of the hem and fold the hem back over it.
Step 3
Iron the hem onto the hem tape.
If necessary, use a damp cloth or the Vlieseline Iron-On aid.
Reinforcing bag fabrics and patchwork projects
Properly reinforcing woven fabrics, bag materials, and patchwork fabrics is a science in itself. Of course, the choice of interfacing or fusible backing always depends on the pattern. It also depends on the look and design you want for your bag or patchwork project. One thing that always helps: a look at the Vlieseline 1x1 guide!
Why should I reinforce bag fabrics?
To ensure bags keep their shape and are durable, it helps to reinforce the back of the fabric with a suitable fusible fleece or interfacing. Here are the benefits at a glance:
- the bag's shape is more defined
- the pattern shape is maintained
- the bag is more durable
- the seams are more stable
- the bag is shock-resistant (depending on the fleece)
- the interfacing protects the contents from moisture
- Thermolam can protect the bag's contents from heat/cold
- the bag shows fewer signs of wear
Which fleece for cosmetic bags?
Depending on the shape of the cosmetic bag, a lot is possible here. Let me give you a few examples for cosmetic bags in different shapes:
As you can see, it really comes down to the shape of the bag and the effect you want to achieve by reinforcing the fabrics. From the universally applicable woven fusible interfacing Vlieseline G 700 to H 640 and even classic batting – everything is possible here.
Which fleece gives the fabric which properties?
Before you start, you should clarify which look and properties your fabric should have after reinforcing. Should your sewing project be flat? Then use a thin woven or fleece interfacing. If you want a lot of volume, a batting (volumenvlies) is the perfect choice.
Sabine's tip: Using interfacings & fleeces in layers
Don't have the right fleece for your project at hand? Or is it too thin?
Then you can double up your fusible interfacings. This works with most smooth fleeces. Here is how you do it:
- Iron on the 1st layer of fusible fleece
- let it cool down thoroughly
- Iron on the 2nd layer of fleece & let it cool down again for 1/2 hour
Important: The firmness increases, and the material properties of the fleece are doubled. This also works with 2 different fleeces, e.g., 1 layer of Vlieseline H250 and 1 layer of Thermolam as a stitched-in fleece.
What is a stiffened interfacing (Schabrackeneinlage)?
A stiffened interfacing is a firm, rigid interfacing. It is suitable for wallets or compartment bags and flat models that require a lot of structure. You can also insert matching pieces of stiffened interfacing just as a "base plate" into your bags. To do this, you assemble the bag, shape the corners well, and then slide the cut piece of stiffened interfacing through the turning opening into the bottom.
Which stiffened interfacing for which bag shape?
Here too, it depends on how your bag should look. Possible bag/fleece combinations include:
- For rather rigid bags: Stiffened interfacings from S 320 to S 520 – the most commonly used reinforcements. Be careful, though: If you crease the interfacing while turning, creases and marks may remain in the fabric
- The "finer" alternative for large and small bags: Decovil I and Decovil I light. Both fusible interfacings are resilient and the most modern stabilizers for all kinds of bags
For which bag shape is Decovil I and Decovil light suitable?
You can use Decovil and Decovil I light* for large bags like shopping bags as well as for cosmetic bags. Here are a few projects where you can use both fleeces:
Why shouldn't you crease stiffened interfacing?
Stiffened interfacing is particularly rigid and dimensionally stable. This is an advantage if you want to sew particularly firm bags, but a disadvantage when turning and processing, as potential creases remain in the material and the fabric will repeatedly lift off at that point.
When should you use batting (Volumenvliese)?
Whenever you want to pad a bag or a sewing project and achieve a thickening effect in the material, you can iron batting onto the back of the fabrics. Sewing in the fleeces is also possible.
What is the difference between H630 and H640?
The difference between H630 and H640 lies in the weight and thickness.
- Vlieseline H* 630 = 86g/sqm
- Vliesline H 640* = 131g/sqm
In the picture, you can clearly see that H640 is significantly thicker than H630. H640 gives your projects more structure, fullness, and shape.
By the way: You can use both H630 and H640 very well for patchwork projects. Beginners, in particular, often find it helpful to be able to iron on the fleece. This prevents the fleece from shifting. :) You can find a beautiful patchwork tutorial for which you can use Vlieseline H630 and H640 here: Reversible Quilting – Instructions for a reversible placemat
How do you iron on batting?
It is important that the adhesive points on the Vlieseline bond well with the back of the fabric when ironing. If there is adhesive on the batting, iron from the fabric side, as the adhesive is located directly beneath it.
Are there also sew-in batting options?
A large portion of batting is sewable. Advantage: You can also use needle-punched batting made from natural or natural-blend fibers. They offer fantastic comfort in clothing or a cozy effect, for example, if you want to sew a patchwork quilt.
A popular volume interfacing for sewing in is, for example, the thick, fluffy R200*, which is also suitable for blankets and seat cushions. It consists of recycled fibers.
How do you sew in interfacings?
If you have never worked with interfacings: don't worry, it's very easy! It is best to fix the interfacings to the fabric with pins. Then you can sew along the fabric edge and fix the interfacing within the seam allowance.
I also like to use temporary spray adhesive to attach interfacings. Then they don't slip while sewing and I don't need pins. By the way, you can also stitch the fabric onto the fleece and then cut it out.
How do I reinforce waxed fabrics and Oilskin?
Waxed and coated fabrics cannot withstand ironing heat. Therefore, you should work with sew-in interfacings when reinforcing them.
Oilskin and Style-Vil*, for example, are good friends:
Can I iron fusible fleece onto Oilskin?
The wax contained in the Oilskin becomes liquid when ironed and "leaks out." Therefore, the iron should not come into contact with waxed fabrics. Instead of fusible fleece, you can work with sew-in interfacings to reinforce Oilskin.
How do I reinforce bags with zippers?
To reinforce bags with zippers, you can very effectively use stay tape. You can use it to cover the fabric edges and thereby make the bag more stable. But Vlieseline G700 and sew-in interfacings are also a good alternative.
Usually, the zipper model already provides for a surface fixation of the bag parts. That is usually sufficient.
How do I reinforce coated fabrics, e.g., cotton?
Coated materials like oilcloth, coated cotton, coated linen, Oilskin, etc., are not reinforced with fusible interfacing or fusible fleece, but rather, if necessary, with sew-in interfacings. Suitable interfacings for coated fabrics are, for example
- Vlieseline M 12*
- Vlieseline L 11*
- Vlieseline S 13
- Style-Vil*
How do you sew in thick interfacings?
Jeannette's tip:
By practicing first. For example, from 2 mm padding height to 5 cm padding height. It is really a matter of practice, as you switch from pins to clips when pinning things together. Style-Vil, which is often fixed with clips before quilting, also likes a sewing practice model 😊.
What is needle-punched batting (genadelte Volumenvliese)?
When people talk about needle-punched fleeces or needle-punched batting, they are referring to the manufacturing method. These fleeces are not about fiber processing, but about "needle felting."
What properties do needle-punched batting have?
Needle-punched batting feels a bit like loose felt. They give your sewing projects structure and fullness. These fleeces are available in fusible and sew-in versions. Often, the batting already adheres a little to the fabric on its own and develops a great cozy effect after frequent washing.
Are there also batting options made from natural materials?
There are very versatile batting options made from natural materials or with a high proportion of natural materials. Let's take a look at them and talk about the differences:
| Properties | |
| Vlieseline 277* | 100% cotton, sew-in fleece, fluffier than 276, bleached |
| Vlieseline 276 | 100% cotton, sew-in batting with a slightly grainy feel and textured surface, unbleached |
| Soyamix 278* | 47% soy, 46% cotton, 7% scrim, unbleached |
What is scrim?
Scrim is a covering layer or grid structure that stabilizes batting and gives it shape. Depending on the type of processing, the scrim layer is so thin that it is not listed in the material specifications.
Which quilt batting is suitable for baby blankets?
We distinguish between play quilts and baby blankets. This distinction is important so that you choose the right batting. A play quilt is placed on the floor so that the baby can lie on it softly and warmly.
Recommended batting for play quilts include, for example:
- A mix of Thermolam 272* + natural mix batting or natural batting
- Vlieseline P120
- Vlieseline P140
- Vlieseline P230
- Vlieseline R200* (made from recycled fibers!)
A baby blanket can be used as a sleeping blanket, car seat blanket, or swaddle. To prevent heat buildup, you should choose natural materials for the batting here. These types of batting are suitable for baby blankets:
- Bamboo-Mix
- Soya-Mix*
- Cotton-Mix*
- Vlieseline 277*
- Vlieseline 276
When should I use bleached quilt batting?
Bleached quilt batting is always an excellent idea when you are using light or white fabrics. For example, as an interlining in a quilt. The bleached batting literally brightens the fabrics from the underside, making them appear as if they are lit from within.
What can I use Thermolam for?
Thermolam* is a very versatile batting that can be used "quite normally" as quilt batting for bags. But it can do even more: it also has an insulating effect. You can use it for the following sewing projects:
- Sewing oven mitts
- Sewing pot holders
- Sewing a lunch bag
- Sewing coasters
- Sewing a mug rug
- Sewing a thermal cooking bag
- Sewing seat cushions
Which batting for quilted bags?
Quilted bags are mega cool!
Jeannette loves them too and writes:
I love Style-Vil* and Style-Vil Fix. I have tested all types of volume and for me, these two are the highlights. The quilting effect is simply unbeatable!
Which batting for 3D appliqués and embroidery?
Style-Vil* is also the batting of choice for 3D appliqués and embroidery. It provides good stability for the fabric and creates an exceptionally beautiful effect.
How can I reinforce soft faux leather?
Sometimes faux leather is especially soft and needs a bit more stabilization. Ironing is not possible because the faux leather would melt from the heat of the iron. Therefore, I recommend Vlieseline LE 420 for sewing in at this point.
However, Style-Vil, Thermolam, Soyamix, or Cottonmix also work well.
Do I have to reinforce cork fabric?
Cork fabric is already very stable "by nature"; reinforcement would make the somewhat firm material even more rigid. You can therefore forgo fusible interfacing and the like unless you want to do 3D quilting. In that case, Style-Vil (to sew in)* or Style-Vil Fix (to iron on)* are the batting choices.
By the way, instead of the cork fabric, you can also very well reinforce the lining fabric with a suitable interfacing. Often, G710 or Vlieseline H200 is sufficient here.
Interfacings for embroidering and stitching with the sewing machine
Which interfacing can I use for embroidering with a sewing machine? There are many interfacings that can help you make embroidering with the sewing machine easier. Here are a few practical examples:
- Tear-away embroidery stabilizer*: Can be placed under the fabric and hooped together
- Iron-on embroidery stabilizer*: Often easier for beginners to handle than tear-away stabilizer because it sticks directly to the fabric
- Vlieseline H 54 Filmoplast*: self-adhesive, is stuck to the back of the fabric and prevents the fabrics from warping during embroidery; practical: has a printed grid!
- Solufix:* self-adhesive and water-soluble, can also be used on the right side of the fabric; trace (or print!) the motif onto the rough side of the stabilizer, stick the stabilizer on, and stitch over it.
- Soluvlies*: water-soluble, is hooped in the embroidery frame and washed out after embroidery
Why should I reinforce fabric before embroidering?
Embroidering fabrics with a sewing machine or embroidery machine can cause the fabric to warp. This is because many tight stitches have to fit in a small area. By reinforcing
- the fabric does not warp
- the embroidery stitches do not sink into the fabric
- the overall look of the embroidery becomes more even
Which embroidery stabilizer for which material?
To ensure your embroidery succeeds, you should use a stabilizer that matches your outer fabric. Jeannette has brought a few examples:
- Terry cloth = Vlieseline H 54*, Solufix* or Soluvlies*
- Flat, firm fabrics = Embroidery stabilizer,* iron-on stabilizer*, Vlieseline H 54*, Soluvlies*, Solufix*
Which embroidery stabilizer for elastic fabrics?
What Vliesofix is for firm fabrics, Solufix is for elastic fabrics. It stabilizes the back of the fabric and ensures that the appliqué can be sewn on neatly even on jersey & co.
Can you iron on embroidery stabilizer?
Sometimes it is helpful to iron on embroidery stabilizer so that it cannot slip. Iron-on embroidery stabilizer is one such candidate with which ironing works without any problems.
Which stabilizer for embroidering with an embroidery machine?
The difference between embroidering with an embroidery machine and embroidering with a sewing machine is not that big when it comes to the use of stabilizers. Suitable stabilizers include, for example:
- Tear-away embroidery stabilizer*: Is hooped in the embroidery frame under the fabric and torn away after embroidery
- Iron-on embroidery stabilizer*: is ironed directly onto the fabric
- Vlieseline H 54 Filmoplast*: self-adhesive and with a printed grid, makes it easier to position accurately in the embroidery frame
- Solufix:* self-adhesive and water-soluble, can also be used on the right side of the fabric
- Soluvlies*: water-soluble, is hooped in the embroidery frame and washed out after embroidery
Which stabilizer for hooping in the embroidery frame?
That depends on the size of the embroidery and the type of fabric being embroidered. A tear-away embroidery stabilizer is the first choice for many fabrics and should always be on hand if you like to embroider.
How do you attach embroidery stabilizer to the fabric?
Usually, embroidery stabilizer is fixed under the fabric with temporary spray adhesive and then hooped in the embroidery frame. However, a combination of Vlieseline H 54 (self-adhesive) and Solufix* (self-adhesive and washable) is great (and very easy).
What do you iron behind embroidery?
To ensure that the threads and knots of embroidery do not scratch the skin, it has proven effective to cover the finished embroidery with a soft stabilizer. For clothing, this works very well with Vlieseline H 609.
Which embroidery stabilizer for firm fabrics?
A tear-away embroidery stabilizer* is ideal for many firm fabrics. But self-adhesive stabilizers, for example, iron-on embroidery stabilizers, are also well-suited for cotton, linen, or canvas.
How do I use tear-away stabilizers?
Tear-away stabilizer* is hooped tightly together with the fabric to be embroidered. After embroidering, the stabilizer is carefully torn away around the embroidery.
How do I use iron-on stabilizers?
Similar to standard fusible interfacings for reinforcing fabrics, the iron-on embroidery stabilizers* are fixed to the back of the fabric with an iron. It is important that you adhere to the specified ironing times and let the fabric cool down lying flat.
How do I use water-soluble stabilizers?
Water-soluble stabilizers, for example Soluvlies*, can usually be used on both the top and underside of the fabric. Some of the stabilizers are self-adhesive, others are hooped together with the fabric in the embroidery frame. After embroidering, the fabric is washed, which dissolves the remnants of the stabilizer.
How do I use self-adhesive stabilizers?
Important for self-adhesive stabilizers: always stick them on the back! Never on the front of the fabric, because otherwise annoying adhesive residues can remain.
How do I use spray adhesive?
I have been using the spray adhesive from ODIF for many years. This is how it works:
- Spray adhesive generously onto the stabilizer (best on a suitable base and outdoors!)
- stick the ironed fabric onto the stabilizer without wrinkles
- sew the fabric
- spray adhesive residues disappear with the first wash
Conclusion: The right stabilizer for every fabric
Wow, we have learned a lot about Vlieseline & Co., right? Jeannette is really a true pro when it comes to the use of Vlieseline. And also in how to tease the most varied possibilities out of the material with the help of fabric reinforcement.
So that you can get to the respective material or the respective Vlieseline quickly and easily, I have linked the individual products. This saves you long searches and you can equip yourself for your projects.
I hope you have fun with our info on the correct use of Vlieseline. Feel free to write in the comments how you liked this info post. And whether any further questions have arisen from it.
Happy simple sewing, your Sabine
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