Marking fabric: The best accessories, tips and tricks

Marking fabric is practical and very easy. In this post, I will introduce you to various options. Additionally, there are tips, tricks, and advice on the subject of marking fabric.

The most important things at a glance

• In this post, you will learn why you should mark fabrics before sewing
• You will get to know the most important types of fabric marking
• I will show you which marking tools exist and how you can use them
• There are also tips and tricks for removing marks
  

Reading tip: Textile markers, chalk, and fabric pens tested

Why should you mark fabrics?

A good question! Yes, technically you could just start sewing, right?

However, whenever layers of fabric need to meet exactly, we need markings that provide orientation and ensure that the finished item actually looks the way it is supposed to.

For this, it is important to transfer markings, notches, and darts from the pattern onto the respective fabric pieces. And perhaps you have already asked yourself:

• What is the best way to mark fabric?
• And what tools are available for marking fabric?
• Do I really need all the marking aids?
• How do the many marking pens differ?

The selection is truly huge. And so that you can get an overview, I will introduce all types of marking in this blog post and explain the special features of each marking tool.

Until 2023, I was responsible there as a product manager for sewing, embroidery, and patchwork accessories. Since my retirement, I am happy to still work on projects on an hourly basis. In this way, my passion will continue to accompany me in the near future.

Claudia says: Everyone uses a Prym product every day

PRYM is a household name worldwide today when it comes to crochet, knitting, and sewing. For all products, Prym focuses on reliable functions, clear concepts, and user-friendly instructions, as well as genuine innovation, modern trends, and sustainability.

But which marking tools do you actually need? What is the most sustainable way to work with these tools? Claudia Huber from Prym supported me with this post with practical advice. She says:

A brief digression: What are notches?

Because I have been asked about this several times – and it fits well here:

You will find notches as small crosswise lines on professional patterns. They are often found on the long lines of the patterns.

For example, on the leg lengths of trouser patterns or skirts. These notches are sometimes also called cross-marks. They should be transferred to the fabric. Just like a "normal" marking.

Why is that? During sewing – especially with larger pieces – the individual fabric layers can shift. With marked notches, you ensure that even long seams turn out precisely.

Marking jersey (a special challenge)

Anyone who enjoys sewing with jersey surely knows: when marking, the fabric slips or stretches and bulges. This applies to pins, but also to trick markers & co.

I recently discovered the chalk pen from Prym at the fabric store. Naturally, I had to take it with me!

Since then, I have enjoyed using it – and not only – for jersey. It also works great for woven cotton.

The cool thing is that the pen is filled with fine chalk powder, which it dispenses in a needle-thin line when drawing and marking. It is easy to remove and very practical, especially for stretchy fabrics (e.g., also for knitwear).

The pen is available in various colors, as is the chalk powder, which can simply be refilled.

Marking fabrics with soap

A tip that comes from the "good old days." Instead of tailor's chalk, which was hard to get, people used sharpened soap or soap remnants.

So, when the soap was too small for washing, it was left to dry. Then you had sharp edges with which you could draw beautifully clear markings – especially on dark fabrics.

If the edge became blunt, it was either re-sharpened with a kitchen knife (and the soap crumbs used for laundry) or the blunted soap was released back into service for handwashing until the edges were sharpened again.

Many sewing professionals still use soap scraps today to mark their fabrics in an environmentally friendly and inexpensive way.

Marking fabrics with a double marker

In tailor shops, a double marker is used for such tasks. It is also sometimes called a chalk wheel.

The principle is very simple: one wheel runs along the pattern while the second wheel marks the seam allowance at a previously set distance.

And this is where the chalk dust that has collected in the chalk sharpener comes into play! With this fine chalk dust, the cartridge can be refilled inexpensively.

The parallel copying wheel^* is also a great thing if you want to enlarge bag patterns or copy a pattern.

Marking hems with the skirt marker

If you often sew skirts, you know the challenge of wearing the skirt for a fitting while trying to mark it at the same time. It is practically impossible.

If you have a helper, that is genius.

Otherwise, it is recommended to purchase a skirt marker.

It is also sometimes called a chalk puffer.

With the small balloon, you puff chalk traces onto the skirt at the desired height. Super practical. And you don't even need a helper (although sewing as a pair is also a lot of fun!).

Marking fabrics with notches

A very good and simple way to mark fabrics is by using notches. These are small indents that are cut about 3–4 millimeters deep into the fabric edge with pointed scissors within the seam allowances.

I like to use notches for sewing tasks where anything else would get in my way.

The advantage: Through the notch, you can see the marking from both sides. Great, for example, for sewing zippers centered into bags!

Marking the fabric fold by ironing

Simple, but effective: To, for example, attach a patch pocket centrally, I like to iron both pieces and align the so-marked fabric folds with each other:

Marking fabrics with a bone folder

A bone folder is also one of those retro tips that has unfairly been somewhat forgotten. Bone folders are actually great for opening seam allowances, smoothing edges, or marking lines.

Bone folders are made from different materials:

• Bamboo bone folder^* are particularly durable
• Bone folder made of bone^* consist of a natural, biodegradable material
• Wooden bone folders^* are usually made of boxwood because it is particularly hard and durable
• I like using my plastic bone folder^* very much for quilting. For this, I guide the sharp side of the bone folder along the patchwork ruler and press the blade of the bone folder into the fabric. Afterwards, I can follow the indentations when sewing.

In the past, bone folders were usually made of bone, hence the name.

Marking fabrics with marking pens

Depending on the texture of the fabric, I use different marking pens. You have already seen the classic trick marker very often in my tutorials.

What I don't like so much about it is the scrubbing after finishing the sewing project. However, it must be said: the markings disappear on their own after a few days.

But honestly: very often I sew things that I want to give away immediately. There, I don't want to wait days for the new little bag to be dry or the marker to have disappeared. You can find out what marking pens exist and what you can use them for further below in this post.

Marking fabrics with a chalk pen

Now a new star has appeared on the marking horizon: the chalk pen.

Anyway: The item makes a trustworthy impression on me – and the inner values are also convincing: The pen itself is actually just a holder for fine chalk leads, which are included in 6 colors.

I was a bit worried at first whether the chalk pen could be easily removed. In that regard, I'm just a bit spoiled by the experience with the iron-off pen.

In the meantime, I have tried it out and behold: such a marking with a chalk pen can be easily removed with a clothes brush or a microfiber cloth. A dish sponge also works well, by the way.

Marking fabrics with pins

A very simple way to mark fabrics. Pins are particularly well-suited for placing cuffs accurately on clothing. But darts can also be marked and secured perfectly with pins.

Marking fabrics with a pencil

For fabrics that are not too dark, a soft pencil in 5B or 6B is very suitable. It adheres great to the fabric. However, you should only mark the wrong side with a pencil: graphite needs a few washes until it has disappeared.

Marking fabric with tailor's chalk

A proven and inexpensive way to mark pieces of clothing before sewing them together.

An advantage of tailor's chalk is that it is inexpensive and easy to handle. It lasts a very long time, but becomes blunt relatively quickly. And then it gets difficult with accuracy.

True professionals delay the blunting of the chalk (or even prevent it completely!) by tilting the chalk while drawing. So, always tilt it a bit. In this way, the chalk shapes itself like a blade.

If you still lack the practice for this, a chalk sharpener helps.

Basically, this is a plastic box with blades over which the narrow side of the chalk is drawn. The fine chalk dust collects at the bottom and can then be used for refillable chalk pens.

The professional device is mainly found in tailor shops – and in sewing rooms where a lot of clothing is sewn.

Marking tools for fabrics at a glance

Here comes the big overview of all common marking aids. In it, you will learn not only how you can use the respective marking helper, but also which fabrics and materials it is suitable for and: how best to remove it again. Claudia Huber from Prym helped me put the list together.

She is involved in the development of the products, loves to sew herself, and therefore has many practical tips in store that will make marking fabrics go even better and easier for you.

We divide the marking aids into groups:

• Chalks
• Lead pens
• prym.ergonomicx
• Trick markers
• Permanent markers

Marking fabrics with tailor's chalk

• Originates from the tailoring trade, once also used with soap remnants
• Traditional universal tool
• Still a standard product that should not be missing from any sewing table
• Perfect for cotton or sturdy materials such as linen, denim, etc.
• Flexible application for all sewing projects
• The chalk sharpener enables consistently clear and fine markings

Marking fabrics with chalk pencils

• Tailor's chalk in pencil form
• Removable with the attached brush
• Affordable option for beginners
• Marking is not as dominant

Marking fabrics with marking pencils

• Beginner pencil with white or grey lead
• Additionally available in pretty Prym Love versions in pink and turquoise
• Standard pencil for almost all applications
• Easier to guide than chalk due to pencil form
• Slightly harder lead, therefore less intense markings than chalk
• Washable
• Perfectly suited for all lighter-colored cotton fabrics

Marking fabrics with a chalk lead set

• Can be used like tailor's chalk, but as a mechanical pencil
• For bold and strong markings
• White and colored leads in an additional storage box; this prevents the chalk leads from breaking
• Colors allow for different types of markings
• Well-suited for all fabric colors and coarse fabrics like linen, canvas, etc.
• The integrated eraser and sharpener are very helpful
• Slightly thicker marking line
• Residue can also be removed with a damp cloth
• Also very well-suited for all DIY projects

Claudia's tip: You must always remove markings before further processing, such as ironing, washing, or dry cleaning!

Marking fabrics with the mechanical chalk pencil

Mechanical pencil

• Additionally available in Prym Love versions in mint and pink (casing)
• Attractive, high-quality mechanical pencil with a fine ceramic lead
• Retractable lead – can be used for a long time
• Refill leads available (white or mixed pack of yellow, pink, charcoal)
• Especially finer template work can be mastered precisely with this marking pencil, e.g., quilting – which is why it is one of Claudia's favorites :))
• Very well-suited for fine fabrics like silk or chiffon
• Less suitable for coarse fabrics – lead tip is too thin, may get stuck in the fabric and potentially break
• Advantage: There is no risk of smudging
• Lines/markings can be removed with the integrated eraser or washed off
• Lead is very economical, the tip remains fine despite wear and is very long-lasting

Marking fabrics with the prym.ergonomics chalk pencil

Chalk pencils in lipstick form – standard with white cartridge

Replacement chalk cartridges available in yellow + white

The replacement cartridge not only refills powdered tailor's chalk in white or yellow but also replaces the entire tip, including the chalk wheel and protective cap.

• Create quick, simple, and precise markings
• Very nice fine line that is easy to remove
• Tailor's chalk in powder form in a replaceable cartridge
• With a high-quality metal wheel for fine and exact distribution of the marking line
• Viewing window to check the current chalk powder level
• Versatile – fine fabrics, jersey, cotton, etc., also suitable for leather
• Gentle on the material due to the rotating chalk wheel (fibers are not displaced)
• Not as practical for coarse fabrics
• Replacement cartridges including metal wheel are available for refilling – this ensures that chalk can continue to be applied very finely

Marking fabrics with the chalk mouse

Chalk mouse: Identical to the pencil, just different ergonomics due to the changed shape (fits comfortably in the hand)

Replacement cartridges are identical to those of the prym.ergonomics chalk pencil

• Very comfortable to use due to its ergonomic shape
• Viewing window to check the cartridge fill level
• Refillable
• Easy to remove

Marking fabrics with the parallel copying wheel

MULTI parallel copying wheel – same handling as the chalk mouse

In addition, a carriage can be attached to this chalk wheel that runs parallel to the mouse's chalk wheel. The distance of the included copying wheel can be locked with the spacer to the desired seam allowance of 15 mm, 25 mm, and 40 mm, allowing all common seam allowances to be marked effortlessly in one step.

• Absolute highlight for professionals
• Great for marking seam allowances and hems in different widths
• Distance is adjustable in 1.5 / 2.5 / 4 cm

Sabine's Tip: When you run the parallel tracing wheel along the edge of the fabric, you can easily mark a 4 cm wide hem, for example. You then only need to fold and pin the fabric edge to the marking – completely without measuring!

Marking fabrics with a disappearing marker

There are various options available here, which we will look at one by one.

Claudia's basic tips for using disappearing markers

• Test marking and removal properties on a sample fabric
• applies to all marking tools, but especially to disappearing markers
• if there are issues with removal, diluted lemon juice might possibly provide a remedy
• naturally also gall soap or, as a last resort, professional dry cleaning
• there are 2 versions of disappearing markers
• self-erasing markers or AQUA disappearing markers
• available with a standard tip or in an extra-fine version
• Extra tip: store all felt-tip pens with the cap facing downwards, always close the cap tightly, otherwise there is a risk of them drying out

• clever helpers for short-term markings
• absolute bestseller among disappearing markers
• depending on the material, lighting conditions, and humidity, the markings erase themselves and disappear as if by magic (visible for one to several days)
• immediately removable with a damp cloth
• versatile in use
• not ideal for very delicate fabrics like silk or chiffon, risk of bleeding
• perfectly suited for jersey, cotton, linen, and wool fabrics

Marking fabrics with the turquoise Aqua disappearing marker

The turquoise Aqua disappearing marker is available with or without a water pen. The water pen is used to remove the marking.

• well suited for lighter cotton fabrics, printed or solid
• not as well suited for silks - water stains could possibly remain after removal - it's better to use a lead pencil for those
• ideal for embroidery and quilting work
• never iron over the markings - this could set the marking, making it very difficult to remove
• perfectly suited for jersey, cotton, linen, and wool fabrics

Claudia's notes on the Aqua disappearing marker plus water pen

A perfect duo for drawing and removing extra-fine markings! Whether you're embroidering, sewing, or patchwork & quilting: the Aqua disappearing marker allows you to add markings to fabrics that shouldn't be visible later on. Thanks to its extra-fine tip, the Aqua disappearing marker is particularly suitable for delicate materials, and the water pen shows its true capability when precisely removing the marked lines before ironing. Furthermore, the water pen can also be used to transfer short-term markings, as it creates lines on the fabric with its damp brush tip.

Claudia's tip:

Stains on the fabric? Simply fill the water pen with a mixture of water and stain remover and remove the stain with pinpoint accuracy. Important: Test the marking and removal properties beforehand on a sample fabric!

Once the disappearing marker is used up, the Aqua marker is available individually, meaning the water pen can continue to be used...

Aqua disappearing marker with white marking

• best marking pen for dark fabrics
• Note: The marking only appears on the fabric after it has dried - therefore, always be a little patient :))
• Removability same as with all disappearing markers

Marking fabrics with permanent markers

Here too, there are two options: the laundry marking pen and the fabric marking pen. And of course, we will explain the differences to you in this section.

1. Option: Permanent laundry marking pen black

• Classic for labeling clothing
• Ballpoint-style tip
• additionally available with iron-on cotton tape and a template
• ideal for labeling clothing (kindergarten, nursing homes, etc.)
• wash-resistant up to 60°C
• the pen is also used for marking pattern foil
• with the cotton tape, it is recommended to sew it on for a secure hold in addition to ironing, depending on the type of fabric

2nd option: Permanent marking pen 2 mm

• with a standard 2mm lead or with a fine lead for use on more delicate materials
• Tip looks like a felt-tip pen
• Alternative to traditional laundry marking pens
• felt-tip pens, therefore store with the tip facing downwards
• always test beforehand if the pen bleeds on the sewing material - then it's better to switch to the laundry marking pen

I hope Claudia and I were able to shed some light on the subject of marking pens for you. Perhaps this post has also helped you find the perfectly suited pen for you and your projects. Then do let us know in the comments. And, if you like, please recommend this help article by sharing it, for example, on Facebook. I would be very happy about that!

Happy simple sewing, Claudia & Sabine