Sewing the transition next to the zipper: How it's done

Sewing the transition next to the zipper - this is a real challenge for many sewing fans. With my tips & tricks, you'll be able to sew the seam perfectly in the future, want to bet? ;)

• The area next to the zipper works particularly well if the zipper is slightly shorter than the bag opening itself
• The ends of the zipper are neatly bound with bias tape
• It is crucial that the seam allowances of the seam next to the zipper lie open against each other

Following my tutorial How to sew the perfect cosmetic bag, several blog readers asked if I could show the tricky spot next to the zipper in more detail.

Check out this post on Instagram

There are questions that aren't answered in any sewing guide. And sometimes you can't even find the right words to ask the question. Or you're embarrassed because you think everyone else knows and you'd look like a fool if you asked... ???? Like in this special case. But don't worry, you have me: I'll reveal to you how to sew the tricky spot next to the zipper! ???? And if you ever have a concern or a question, be sure to write it in the comments! Maybe the next Insta-tip will be dedicated to you (yes! to you!????). . #howto #tutorial #sewingbags #sewingpouches #baglove #sewcialistsofinstagram #sewingtime #sewing #sewingmakesmehappy #sewingaddict #sewingmachine #sewingismyhobby

A post shared by Sabine (@sewsimple.de) on Nov 2, 2020 at 11:58 PST

Of course I can! There are a few simple tricks that will help you achieve a perfect seam at the transition between the lining and the outer fabric. I'll show you my favorite tips in this blog post!

Check out this post on Instagram

There are questions that aren't answered in any sewing guide. And sometimes you can't even find the right words to ask the question. Or you're embarrassed because you think everyone else knows and you'd look like a fool if you asked... ???? Like in this special case. But don't worry, you have me: I'll reveal to you how to sew the tricky spot next to the zipper! ???? And if you ever have a concern or a question, be sure to write it in the comments! Maybe the next Insta-tip will be dedicated to you (yes! to you!????). . #howto #tutorial #sewingbags #sewingpouches #baglove #sewcialistsofinstagram #sewingtime #sewing #sewingmakesmehappy #sewingaddict #sewingmachine #sewingismyhobby

A post shared by Sabine (@sewsimple.de) on Nov 2, 2020 at 11:58 PST

What you need for sewing

Outer fabric - e.g. colorful cotton fabrics^* reinforced with Vlieseline H250^*

Lining fabric - e.g. fine corduroy^* or canvas^* reinforced with Vlieseline H 630^*

• Continuous zipper with pull^*
• Fabric marker or tailor's chalk^*
• Sewing thread in the color of the lining fabric^*
• Rotary cutter^*
• Fabric scissors^*
• Patchwork ruler^*
• Sewing machine (feel free to also read my review of the Janome Horizon)^*
• optional: Wonder Tape for attaching the zipper^*
• Fabric clips^*
• possibly pins^*

Instructions: Sewing the transition next to the zipper

Start by binding the zipper with bias tape.

I show you how to do this in my blog post Binding zippers made easy.

Then, sew in the zipper according to the instructions.

In my tutorial, I demonstrate the steps using the Nanami cosmetic bag as an example. The sewing instructions and pattern for Nanami are available for free here at SewSimple.

It is crucial that you only topstitch the zipper for the length of the zipper, not across the entire width of the bag.

First, the area by the zipper is pressed from both sides.

In doing so, I make sure that the seam connecting the lining and outer fabric is formed nicely and crisply and lies exactly in the fold.

Afterward, you can topstitch the edge next to the zipper with a straight stitch.

In the picture, I show it again: The topstitch ends at the bias tape. I lock the stitch there.

This is what the prepared bag part looks like from the outside.

And this is from the lining side.

Then, both lining parts are pinned together right sides together. And the outside as well.

I start at the bottom edge of the bag.

The zipper teeth face toward the lining fabric.

At the transition, I place the seams exactly on top of each other and fold the seam allowances apart.

I pin this area in place with the seam allowances folded open.

I do the same on the other side.

Now the rest of the bag is also pinned together flush all the way around.

I start the seam at the turning opening.

I set a stitch length of 1.8. This makes it much easier to shape the curves nicely afterward.

I sew slowly, at a presser foot's width from the lining toward the outer fabric.

When the presser foot approaches the area next to the zipper, I check once more whether the seam allowances (including the ones underneath!) are folded open.

I carefully sew over the transition with the seam allowances folded open.

I leave the pin in the fabric so that nothing can shift.

Then I continue sewing until I reach the other side.

I do the same thing here, making sure the fabric lies nice and smooth.

I sew to the beginning of the turning opening and backstitch to secure the seam.

Then, trim the seam allowance with pinking shears.

Turn the bag right side out and press all seams well into shape.

Now I shape the side seam again separately using a wooden handle and press it.

Then I also use the wooden handle to shape the bias tape on the zipper.

By the way, I think it's super cute to decorate my bags and pouches with a small pin!

Finished!

Images: This is what it looks like in the end

If you have any questions or suggestions, I look forward to your comments! :)

Happy simple sewing,

yours, Sabine

Frequently asked questions at a glance