For many sewing enthusiasts, machine embroidery looks more complicated at first glance than it actually is. In this post, you'll learn how it works, what you need, and the best way to get started.
The most important points at a glance
- In this post, you will learn which basic equipment you need for machine embroidery
- We clarify which materials and stabilizers are suitable for which fabric types
- and talk about how to get started successfully with an embroidery machine
- In the guide to machine embroidery, I explain everything step by step
- You will learn everything you need to know to get started with your embroidery machine
YouTube Tutorial: Machine Embroidery
What is an embroidery machine?
An embroidery machine looks confusingly similar to a sewing machine. It is equipped with a computer module and can stitch designs onto fabrics using embroidery thread. For this, fabric is clamped into a hoop and fixed in the embroidery machine. There are also combo machines that can both sew and embroider.
Do you love embroidered fabrics, clothing, or bags? Oh, then there are two of us. Or rather: three. Because for this post, I enlisted the expert support of another sewing and embroidery addict: Claudia Geiser from Il Coccolino. This is a BERNINA sewing machine shop in Munich, where you can also take courses and find beautiful fabrics. Come on, before we start, I'll introduce you to Claudia in a bit more detail below.
Machine embroidery is a brilliant option for people who don't want to or can't embroider by hand, to embellish clothing, bags, accessories, and much more with dreamlike motifs. For example, with SewSimple embroidery files:
And not just that: with ITH (In-The-Hoop) files, you can "sew" entire bags, stuffed animals, neckerchiefs, baby shoes, lanyards, bibs, sleep masks, hot water bottle covers, and much, much more directly in the embroidery hoop. Because fundamentally, embroidery is exactly that: a thread is guided through the fabric in such a way that an embroidered image made of thread is created. You might know this from embroidering with a sewing machine.
But unlike free-hand embroidery or thread painting, as I show in my tutorial, with machine embroidery, the machine is "assigned" an embroidery motif (via an embroidery file) and then stitches the whole thing onto the fabric independently. You only need to change the thread in between when it's time for a different color.
Reading tip: Appliqués and embroidery files
For me, a whole new world opened up through embroidery with my BERNINA embroidery machine. Actually, I wanted something "very simple." And during my consultation at the Hamburg sewing machine house, it was already clear: I would buy a sewing and embroidery machine as a single unit. Then starting with the embroidery machine, which was thematically somewhat foreign to me, is much easier because I am already familiar with the sewing machine. Feel free to also read my review of the BERNINA 770 QE
I was completely won over by the stunningly beautiful embroidery motifs that are included directly with the machine: Kaffe Fassett, "Kayf" for short, designed them, or borrowed many from his fabrics. That can then, for example, look like this, as seen here on our ERLA bag:
Here, I just embroidered "wildly" and then cut the canvas to size according to the pattern.
You might recognize the clustered flowers from K.F.'s fabrics.
The sewing pattern is called ERLA. You can find it in our shop.
Why am I writing this post? Because I still remember exactly how many questions I had before I dared to start embroidering. So that you can immediately enjoy your own embroidered images, Claudia, my colleague Petra, and I have summarized the best tips on materials, machines, files, and starting with an embroidery machine in one post. Petra contributed inspiring project photos of her embroidery work to this post. 💐
About Claudia Geiser
Greetings from Munich! My name is Claudia. Creativity has been my greatest passion for as long as I can remember. Today I am incredibly happy, grateful, and of course a little bit proud that this passion has turned into my own business: "Il Coccolino." I am privileged to accompany the thread manufacturer Mettler at trade fairs and support them with various creative projects. Many of my sewing projects have been published in various trade magazines over the years and are still available today as sewing kits in my online shop.
Claudia's links
About Petra Bond
Petra is a creative multi-talent. She is a fashion designer, illustrator, and graphic designer. And she loves to play with colors, shapes, materials, and designs.
As a Bernina expert, she is well-versed in the sewing universe, advises retailers, and inspires everywhere she goes with her magical creations.
But Petra's heart beats not only for sewing itself; she also develops her own patterns and enjoys implementing them.
Petra always likes to add a good dose of personality to her self-made pieces through great embroidery designs. In this post, she shows a few of them.
Lucky for us: Petra is part of the SewSimple crew and is always developing new ideas and tutorials – for your sewing happiness. 🧡
How does an embroidery machine work?
For an embroidery machine to know what to stitch, it needs the motif as an embroidery file. Some files are already stored on the machine, but you can also load them onto the machine using a USB stick.
Once you start the embroidery design on the machine, it guides you through the program color by color. This means that as soon as one color is finished, the machine shows you which thread is the next color. This continues until the motif is finished.
Reading tip: Embroidering on jersey with the embroidery machine
Petra's Tip
Petra Bond, Bernina-Expert
Start relaxed and without fear!
When BERNINA declared 2023 the year of embroidery, I bought my embroidery machine.
Then I waited half a year to find the courage to get started.
In the end, I asked my friend if he wanted to try it out. It worked perfectly.
After that, I dared to try it myself. Since then, I've loved embroidery. 🙂
What does an embroidery machine look like?
Basically, you can imagine an embroidery machine like a sewing machine. And sometimes it is. Namely when the embroidery module is simply connected to the sewing machine, just like with my Bernina 770 QE. The embroidery module looks like this:
And the embroidery module is clicked into the machine at the small black feet:
Besides the connection feet, you can also see a memory stick. It enables data transfer from the sewing machine to the embroidery module. Because the embroidery module needs to know how it should work. And it learns that through the data provided by the embroidery file. Sounds complicated, but it happens at the push of a button. That's what's cool about it.
When the embroidery hoop is attached, you can no longer see the embroidery module moving it under the fabric.
You can see here well that the sewing machine and the embroidery module are connected. The hoop lies nice and flat on the sewing table of the sewing machine.
Why do you need an embroidery machine?
An embroidery machine is a great addition to a sewing machine. Whenever you want a little extra, you can get creative with the embroidery machine by choosing a motif that suits your project. Then you can embroider it onto the cut fabric and subsequently finish sewing the project.
Alternatively, you can also embroider already finished or purchased items. With ITH files, you can also implement entire little bags and other sewing ideas – for many of them, you don't even need a sewing machine.
How does machine embroidery differ from embroidering with a sewing machine (free-hand embroidery)?
With free-hand embroidery or thread painting, as I show in my post "Embroidering with a sewing machine," the motifs are drawn onto the fabric and stitched out with the embroidery foot. Let's briefly take a look at the differences in detail:
| Free-hand embroidery | Machine embroidery |
|---|---|
| - No embroidery machine required | - Embroidery machine absolutely necessary |
| - Work is done with the sewing machine | - With the embroidery machine |
| - Motif is drawn onto the fabric | - Motif is stored as a file |
| - Sewing and embroidery thread possible | - Embroidery thread is recommended |
| - Embroidery hoop is guided manually | - Embroidery machine guides the embroidery hoop independently |
| - Hand embroidery hoop and machine embroidery hoop possible | - Machine embroidery hoop required |
| - Motifs always look different | - Embroidery image always looks uniform |
What kind of designs can I embroider with an embroidery machine?
You can use an embroidery machine to embroider your chosen designs—which you have saved on the machine or on a USB stick—onto a wide variety of materials. Fabrics with or without elastane, faux leather, cork, softshell, leather, and so on...
There are no limits to your creativity. The embroidery images must be in a file format compatible with your machine. You can even digitize children's drawings if you feel like it. But embroidery machines can do even more, take a look:
| What can the embroidery machine do? | What exactly is that? | What do you need for it? |
|---|---|---|
| Embroidering on fabric | Embroidery designs are stitched onto the right side of the fabric | File, embroidery hoop, embroidery thread, embroidery foot, suitable embroidery stabilizer, fabric |
| ITH projects | ITH stands for "In the Hoop" and means that entire sewing projects like bags are embroidered within the embroidery machine's hoop This means: The embroidery machine also takes over the tasks of a sewing machine here |
ITH file, embroidery stabilizer, fabric, embroidery hoop |
| Appliqués | Pre-embroidered appliqués that are later sewn onto the fabric with a sewing machine | Water-soluble embroidery stabilizer, thread, hoop |
Do I need training to be able to embroider designs with an embroidery machine?
It takes a little bit of time to get familiar with the embroidery machine. An introductory training course at the dealer is certainly the most comfortable solution here. However, those who have a bit more time and patience can certainly acquire the knowledge using the machine's manual or various videos and blog articles that can be found online.
Every machine works a bit differently, so it is advisable to use manufacturer videos that show you how your machine works. And, of course, you should always keep the instruction manual for your embroidery machine within reach. Then nothing can go wrong. 🙂
What does the basic equipment for embroidering with an embroidery machine cost?
Embroidering with an embroidery machine is not that expensive. In addition to the embroidery machine, you will need embroidery stabilizers to get started, the right threads, and possibly a pair of sharp, curved scissors to trim threads or cut back appliqué fabrics.
For the first attempts on cotton, tear-away stabilizer is sufficient. You can get appliqué scissors for about 20 EUR. Embroidery threads are available individually or as a set. In a set, they are of course cheaper per spool.
For around 40-50 euros, you have the basic equipment ready and can get started.
Which machine is suitable for starting out with an embroidery machine?
Many sewing machine manufacturers now also offer embroidery machines.
If you get along particularly well with a sewing machine brand or manufacturer, it is reasonable to assume that you would also be able to handle the embroidery machine from them well.
Because often, e.g., in terms of operation or the structure of the instruction manual, parallels can be observed.
I find it important that the hoop is not too small, otherwise the fun of getting started will be over quickly. This is because once you find out how much fun embroidering is, you often want to improve. Suddenly, you don't just want to embroider small pouches, but sweaters, denim jackets, or even shoes.
So when buying, it is best to make sure that there is some room for growth so that you can develop creatively. However, for many machines, you can also buy larger embroidery hoops.
Which embroidery machine is recommended for beginners?
Look for an embroidery machine from a manufacturer you trust. If you have a sewing machine for which there is a suitable embroidery module: BINGO! Perhaps you can also find a formerly higher-priced model as a demo unit, trade show model, or as a trade-in. That is also often a great opportunity.
But there are also good, affordable, and easy-to-use embroidery machines for which a new purchase is worthwhile.
The Bernette B70, for example, is a great entry-level machine that already includes around 200 embroidery designs and 7 alphabets. Especially cool: The machine is delivered with 3 hoops.
From Bernina, we already know the combo model (you can read the review for the Bernina 770 QE here), i.e., the sewing machine with a detachable embroidery module.
For me, an optimal solution because I then don't have to accommodate two devices (space in sewing rooms is unfortunately limited), but only have to remove the embroidery module and stow it on a shelf.
The BERNINA B500 therefore comes as a pure embroidery machine and scores with a speed of 1000 stitches per minute. The embroidery area is quite large at 400 x 150 mm; 275 designs and 8 alphabets are included here as well. Sounds like a lot at first, but you will notice how much fun it is to personalize self-sewn items with embroidered names.
However, I find the Bernina 770 QE, for which the embroidery module can also be purchased separately, to be particularly beginner-friendly. I bought both together right away and had myself trained on both elements.
An easy-to-use machine with almost limitless possibilities and beautiful, pre-set embroidery designs. But, of course, you can also have a lot of fun with SewSimple embroidery files. 🙂
By the way, our colleague Eve introduces a great embroidery-sewing machine for beginners here: Brother Innov-is NV2700 Review
How big does my embroidery hoop need to be to start?
Here, the rule is generally: The larger the hoop, the more possibilities.
However, it is also true: The larger the hoop, the larger the machine – and of course, the required budget will inevitably be larger too.
With small machines with a hoop size of 10x10 cm, the selection of embroidery designs and, accordingly, the creative possibilities are limited.
Furthermore, you should make sure that the machine has a certain piercing power, so that materials like faux leather, softshell, thin leather, etc. can also be embroidered.
What can I embroider with an embroidery machine?
Maybe we should say, what can't you embroider? 😉
With a little practice, you can embroider much more than one might think at first glance. The item to be embroidered just needs to be somehow fixed in the hoop. For example, there are creative people who embroider the shafts of their leather boots.
Of course, you have to hold the shoe firmly while doing so so that its weight doesn't tear the shaft out of the hoop. With a little practice, however, this works. Even more demanding materials such as leather, softshell, etc., can be embroidered excellently with machines with decent piercing power.
Can I also embroider purchased clothing?
But of course! It is also important here that the item to be embroidered must be fixed in the hoop. If you want to embroider the legs of jeans, for example, you would have to open a leg seam beforehand.
If you want to embroider the back of a lined jacket, for example, it would be advisable to open the lining so that it is not embroidered as well. This way, the jacket still looks nice on the inside after embroidering and will likely drape better as well.
Do I have to embroider the motifs before sewing them together?
That is usually the easier way. However, if the creative idea for embroidering only comes later, that is usually possible too. Finished clothing items can generally be embroidered afterwards as well.
How does embroidering with extra large motifs work?
For larger motifs, you also need a correspondingly large hoop. Most machines come with operating instructions that specify the hoop size for the embroidery motif. It is definitely a good idea to stick to that.
Basically:
The larger the machine's free arm, the larger the hoop. You always choose the hoop that matches the design.
How does embroidering with multi-part motifs work?
There are various possibilities here.
If you digitize a design yourself that does not fit into any available hoop, it can, for example, be broken down into several parts in the BERNINA Embroidery Software 9 using the "Multi-Hooping" function. The software programs small registration marks, to which the other parts of the design are attached in a matching way using pinpoint placement.
Sometimes, however, you can also purchase multi-part designs. These are then joined together at the corresponding corners or markings using pinpoint placement.
If the option for pinpoint placement is not available, your only remaining choice is to align the individual parts very conscientiously and patiently using the embroidery hoop template.
A multi-part motif is, for example, the beautiful "Cat in a ruff" by K. Fasset.
Can I also embroider appliqués to sew onto clothes and bags later?
In principle, yes. You could, for example, embroider the appliqués onto embroidery felt, cut them out, and then sew them onto clothes. However, the look is usually better if the motifs are embroidered directly onto the clothing, if possible.
A fun alternative: Embroider motifs onto water-soluble stabilizer. This can, for example, produce a very nice embroidery effect...
What do you need for embroidering with an embroidery machine?
Actually, you don't need that much material to get started with embroidery. Besides your embroidery machine, you need
Which thread is suitable for embroidering with an embroidery machine?
For the top thread, the market offers various embroidery threads made of polyester (e.g., Poly Sheen by Mettler), or viscose, metallic threads, threads that reflect or glow in the dark, etc.
Polysheen is the "all-purpose" embroidery thread from Mettler, which is very popular due to its beautiful colors, high tensile strength (it’s no fun to restart when the thread has broken, I can assure you), and softly shimmering surface.
The great thing is: you can buy individual, color-coordinated thread sets directly, which makes your finished embroidered motif look beautifully harmonious.
For the bobbin thread, you use a special embroidery bobbin thread, e.g., Bobbinette by Mettler. It is available in white and black. Choose one that matches your embroidery motif.
For free-standing lace embroidery, the same embroidery thread is used for both the top and bobbin thread.
It is better not to embroider with classic universal thread that you use for sewing. You won't get a nice result with that, because the thread is too stiff and thick.
Petra's Tip
Petra Bond, Bernina Expert
Personally, I get huge pleasure from playing with colors. What do I mean by that?
Well, embroidery files have a predefined color combination that is displayed to you while embroidering.
And I think it’s wonderful to use colors according to my own taste and ignore the presets.
This creates incredibly beautiful, original embroideries.
Just give it a try!
Which stabilizer is suitable for embroidering with an embroidery machine?
The stabilizer must be chosen to match the fabric. Cotton fabrics are usually reinforced with tear-away embroidery stabilizer. For jersey, there is a so-called fusible embroidery stabilizer. It is ironed on and later torn away. Alternatively, a cut-away stabilizer can be used. For free-standing motifs or embroidery on organza or tulle, water-soluble stabilizers are used.
It is often also worth combining embroidery stabilizers. For example, if you want to embroider on teddy fabric or terry cloth. Then you can reinforce the underside of the fabric with a tear-away embroidery stabilizer so that the fabric does not distort. And you can cover the top side with a wash-away stabilizer. This has the great effect that the fluff or terry loops are not in the way during embroidery, and the embroidery pattern comes out much cleaner and clearer.
For the beginning, you can get a starter set and see which stabilizers you prefer to work with.
Petra's Tip
Petra Bond, Bernina Expert
The starter sets with embroidery stabilizers, for example from Madeira, are ideal for beginners because you can simply test which stabilizers you like particularly well. And what is suitable for your projects. Otherwise, you'll have large quantities of stabilizers at home that you might not even want to use.
🚀 Reading tip: Embroidery stabilizers and their use
How do you tension the embroidery stabilizer in the hoop?
First, decide which embroidery hoop size is perfect for your motif. Mark the center of the planned motif on the fabric.
Then open the embroidery hoop.
For many motifs, fabric and stabilizer are tensioned together in the hoop so that the soft fabric can be stabilized by the firm stabilizer. This is how it's done:
- at the very bottom, place the lower part of the disassembled hoop
- next, the stabilizer
- then the fabric with the wrong side down
- for an especially fine result, a water-soluble stabilizer may optionally be placed on the right side of the fabric
But how tightly must the stabilizer be tensioned? A good rule of thumb is: tension it "drum-tight"!
Tension fabric and stabilizer in the embroidery hoop
Drum-tight means: if you can drum on it with your finger and a sound is produced, that is perfect.
You achieve an especially tight effect if you push the inner hoop through by approx. 1 mm, i.e., it then protrudes about 1 mm beyond the outer hoop on the back. This not only tensions the fabric additionally, but the outer hoop also does not chafe as much on the free arm of the machine and runs more quietly.
I embroidered my Yuja pointed dress made of simple olive-green fabric with a magical dill blossom, thereby emphasizing the pointed shape.
Which motifs are suitable for starting with an embroidery machine?
Just like with sewing, you should feel your way forward slowly here. The larger the motif, the more colors it has, and the denser the stitches are, the better the item to be embroidered must be tensioned. Otherwise, there would be an unsightly offset between the colors.
It is therefore recommended to start your first attempts with smaller motifs that are embroidered with only a few colors. It is also recommended to start your first embroidery attempts on cotton fabrics that are neither too thin nor too coarse.
What is an embroidery file?
This is a file that has been programmed in special embroidery software (e.g., BERNINA Embroidery Software V9). It contains all the information (colors, stitch types, shapes, stitch angles, etc.) that the machine needs to be able to embroider the motif. Depending on the machine type and the software used for digitizing the file, various formats are available.
How is the embroidery machine programmed?
Embroidery machines contain a selection of fonts and motifs. These can be modified in the machine, for example enlarged, reduced, mirrored, and thus "reprogrammed".
If you want to embroider an embroidery file according to your wishes or, for example, according to your own drawing, this cannot be programmed directly in the machine. For this, a corresponding embroidery file must first be created in embroidery software.
Can I use every file format for my embroidery machine?
In any case, an embroidery format is required. Embroiderers are often asked by friends if they could send a JPG with a logo that will then be embroidered. Unfortunately, that doesn't work. Quite apart from the fact that the machine wouldn't be able to read the JPG, it also contains absolutely no information about stitch type, size, angle, thread colors, etc.
Which embroidery format is suitable for your machine can be found in your machine's manual. There are various formats for the individual manufacturers, e.g., BERNINA .exp, Brother .pes, Janome .jef, Pfaff .pcs.
Newer machines, such as all models of the current BERNINA 5 and 7 series, can, however, also read all foreign formats, so you don't have to worry so much about the correct file format anymore.
As long as it is available, however, always use the "appropriate" format for your embroidery machine.
The BERNINA Embroidery Software creates motifs with the extension .ART. This is the master file, which is then programmed via the software into various formats with different extensions.
Which format for BERNINA embroidery machine?
The machine requires the embroidery pattern format “EXP”. If you have files in other formats but no embroidery pattern software, you can convert, edit, and save the embroidery files to a USB stick in this format using the free BERNINA Artlink software.
What is an in-the-hoop file?
What does ITH embroidery file mean? ITH stands for “In The Hoop” – your embroidery project is therefore created completely in the embroidery hoop. But wait – isn't every embroidery created completely in the embroidery hoop? Yes, every embroidery is embroidered in the hoop.
How can I create an embroidery motif myself?
For this, you need embroidery software, e.g., the BERNINA Embroidery Software V9. There, the motif is then created step by step. Which colors are embroidered in which order, which stitch types and shapes should be used. All this is determined as information for the embroidery machine in an embroidery file.
Which needle for embroidering with an embroidery machine
For embroidering with the embroidery machine, you should not use a "normal" needle from your sewing machine – there are special embroidery needles that do an excellent job. Bernina, for example, releases its own embroidery needles*, which are, however, produced by Schmetz.
From my point of view, the following embroidery needles are recommended:
- Bernina*
- Schmetz Universal Embroidery Needles*
- Schmetz Gold* (titanium coated)
- Tip: Many embroidery fans use fine Schmetz Anti-Glue Needles* (works great!)
How often do I need to change the needle when machine embroidering?
When embroidering with an embroidery machine, the device does a lot of heavy lifting: many stitches are performed in a very short time. This makes it all the more important to clean your machine before starting, oil it (at least that applies to Berninas), and insert a fresh needle that matches your fabric and project.
For many designs, the needle gets quite hot due to the friction of embroidery. This also makes it a bit susceptible to issues. If you notice that the embroidery quality is declining or the thread is snapping, you should check the needle and replace it if necessary.
I use a fresh needle for every embroidery design and have had great success with that so far. Delicate embroidery designs, in particular, are worth not ruining due to an accidentally bent or burred needle.
Is it worth buying an embroidery machine?
With an embroidery machine, you can conjure up so many more things than just embroidering simple pieces. The previously mentioned ITH (In-the-Hoop) files offer limitless creative fun. Cross-stitch designs look deceptively real, like hand-stitched.
Embroidered tulle looks particularly magical, and with so-called Free Standing Lace embroidery files, you can wonderfully digitize free-standing elements.
With an embroidery machine, you can suddenly make things yourself that you never dared to dream of. A particularly magical example is Petra's Redwork embroidery on water-soluble stabilizer:
Petra likes to use this technique for self-created earrings or bracelets. But Christmas tree decorations, gift tags, brooches, and many other decorative elements can also be easily realized this way.
Which embroidery machine do you recommend?
While Petra, Claudia, and I haven't tried everything, we do have some experience with embroidery. And we happen to be confessed BERNINA fans. But a few points that I consider important:
- Make sure the hoop size isn't too small, otherwise you'll be very restricted later on.
- Sewing/embroidery combinations are excellent for those who don't have much space.
- A dedicated embroidery machine offers the advantage that you can sew on the side while the machine is embroidering.
How does ITH embroidery work?
An ITH (In-the-Hoop) embroidery file usually doesn't come alone; it is accompanied by an instruction PDF. In it, you will find all the instructions on which fabrics or materials should be placed and stitched in what order and size.
At the end comes the truly magical moment. You usually just have to trim and turn the embroidered piece – and it's finished! Completely manufactured In-the-Hoop.
Where do I get embroidery designs?
With newer models, files can be loaded with a USB stick. Some machines also offer the option of transferring files via USB cable. Apart from embroidery stabilizer and embroidery threads, no other accessories are needed in principle to get started with embroidery.
The range here is almost limitless. Some designs are already on your machine. If you go searching, you will find many free embroidery patterns online, e.g., on the BERNINA Blog. Furthermore, there are numerous online shops where you can purchase embroidery designs. Finally, there is the option of digitizing your own designs yourself with embroidery software.
And of course, you can also find beautiful embroidery designs and files for machine embroidery at SewSimple.
What do you do with an embroidery file?
Once you have purchased an embroidery file online, you can download it and start embroidering immediately. After downloading the embroidery file, save the file to your computer and load the file format your machine requires onto the USB stick. Then insert the stick into your machine, open the design there, and the embroidery fun can begin.
Conclusion: Starting with the embroidery machine
To get started with an embroidery machine, you need neither a lot of material nor much prior knowledge. Basically, embroidering is even easier than sewing. And of course: a magnificent addition to sewing. Starting with an embroidery machine is truly much easier than you think. And it's a huge amount of fun!
Because self-sewn items decorated with a suitable design are simply in a class of their own, right? In any case, Claudia and I are completely addicted to both. If you look at the pictures in this blog post, you can surely understand why, right?
So, how about it? Do you also feel like starting to embroider now? Then grab your embroidery machine, the right embroidery thread, and get going! We wish you lots of fun. ✂️
Best regards, Claudia & Sabine
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