Buying an overlocker sewing machine: In this post, you will find out what an overlocker can do, which projects it is suitable for, what you need to look for when buying, and which overlocker sewing machines are recommended.
The most important things at a glance
- Overlockers are high-speed machines that sew, cut, and finish in a single step
- There are affordable and expensive overlockers from every manufacturer
- All overlockers are the same when it comes to their basic functions
- You will gain an insight into the functionality of the overlocker
- In this post, you will learn what you should watch out for when buying one
- I will explain how to change overlocker needles
- You will learn how an air-threading system works
- I will show you how you can thread using the knot method
- You will learn how to thread an overlocker
What does an overlocker sewing machine do?
Sergers, as overlockers are sometimes called, were originally developed for the clothing industry. Nowadays, many hobby sewists also sew with these fast, efficient machines. And for good reason: overlockers really make your life easier if you enjoy sewing clothing. The overlocker is a true blessing, especially for fine, slippery, stretchy, or particularly thick fabrics.
This is partly due to the differential feed, which you can adjust so that the seams do not stretch or pucker, as is sometimes the case with sewing machine seams.
On the other hand, it also has to do with the basic functions of your ovi. It can do a little more than a "normal" household sewing machine. By the way, the latter cannot be replaced by an ovi at all, even though you can sew entire garments completely with an overlocker. And at breakneck speed. ;) But that's not all: overlock seams look beautiful, so your self-sewn clothing is also neatly finished on the inside.
Reading tip: Baby Lock Enlighten - Unboxing and review
What can an overlocker do?
The ovi sews, trims the seam allowances, and finishes the fabric edge – all in a single work step. Cool, right? Furthermore, the overlocker is a high-speed machine: sewing at approx. 1,300 to 1,500 stitches per minute, it is usually faster than many sewing machines (although there are so-called high-speed sewing machines here too, my Jukis can both do 1,500 stitches/min.).
If you compare it to a sewing machine, you will find that there are many sewing machines (such as my Janome Horizon, the JUKI DX7, or the JUKI UX8) that are similarly fast. However, the stitches of a sewing machine are just single stitches, where not much else happens. Let alone cutting and finishing.
Its speed and efficiency make the overlocker a real workhorse that, once threaded correctly, covers a lot of ground. That’s fun, it’s fast, and the result is something to be proud of.
Let's take another look at the functions of the overlocker
- It sews multiple layers of fabric in one go
- The seams are elastic, which is why the ovi is the first choice for stretchy fabrics
- It sews, cuts, and finishes fabric edges
- It can also finish individual layers of woven fabric
- You can also use it with the knife deactivated (be sure to read the recommendations in your overlocker's manual; some manufacturers recommend sewing only with the knife engaged)
- The overlocker is suitable for lazy cuffs, as I show you in the post Tips & Tricks for sewing with an overlocker
- You can sew beautiful hems with the overlocker, for example with flatlock seams, which are created by pulling the fabric layers apart after sewing; they are nice and flat, don't add bulk, and are very decorative
- You can even "knit" with the overlocker without additional accessories
- Fine and slippery fabrics get a wonderful finish with rolled hems or lettuce hems
- There are various overlocker feet with which you can gather and sew fabric together at the same time, attach bead strings and ribbons, sew on elastic bands, or sew in zippers
- The ovi's piping foot is particularly effective. With it, you can make your own piping in a single work step and sew it in perfectly and very neatly right away
- For some overlockers, there are special zipper feet that make sewing and finishing zippers easier, but in many cases, you can also use the piping foot for this.
What can't an overlocker do?
One thing is clear: an overlocker does not replace your sewing machine.
It only sews at the edge, not in the middle of the fabric. Sewing topstitches, binding fabric edges with bias tape, or sewing ribbons onto fabric – the overlocker can't do any of this, nor can it sew buttonholes or attach appliqués.
Especially for hems, like those at the bottom of a sweater or shirt, there is another specialist: the coverstitch machine. This is a machine that sews on the fabric with multiple needles. Topstitches can be seen on the top, which look like straight seams. On the underside, an elastic coverstitch can be seen, which gives the whole thing a truly professional finish.
By the way, there are also combo machines that can be converted from coverlock to overlock. This means they combine the good qualities of an overlocker with the possibility of sewing super neat coverstitch hems. I have listed a combo machine from Babylock in the buying recommendations so you can see what I mean.
So the overlocker does not replace your sewing machine – it is the ideal supplement and ensures that, in addition to the fun of sewing, everything looks really good and professional and is done in a flash.
Which fabrics can I sew with the overlocker?
Short answer: practically all of them. Whether woven or knit, the overlocker handles almost all fabrics.
Long answer: Woven fabrics like cotton or linen sometimes don't cope as well with the elastic seams of the overlocker. In that case, you can still sew the fabric layers together with the overlocker, but add a support seam in the fabric color before the overlock seam. Then you are on the safe side. And your seam will look fantastic.
Knitted fabrics like jersey, sweat fabric, French terry, nicki, and much more can be processed with the overlocker without any hesitation, without needing to use the sewing machine.
Naturally, due to the special capabilities of the feed dogs, the overlocker is particularly well-suited for efficiently conveying slippery, sliding, sticky, or fluffy fabrics through the machine.
By the way, fast overlock seams for finishing are also excellent before (!) washing highly fraying fabrics (e.g., linen). This prevents tangled threads in the washing machine and pulled fabric edges on newly bought fabric.
Savings tip: You don't need a 4-thread overlock seam just for finishing. It is sufficient to sew with only 3 cones here. The left needle remains free and you save thread.
Buying an overlocker
Naturally, the decision as to which overlocker is the right one for you is really not easy. The selection is simply too large. If you already know a brand with which you have had good experiences and which you trust, you can also start by doing some research there when buying an overlocker.
Ultimately, you will weigh up how much and how often you sew, how much sewing comfort you want, and what you are prepared to spend on an overlocker.
The basic functions of all overlocker machines are basically the same or very similar. The question is how many additional functions you want.
A practical example: there are overlocker sewing machines that are equipped with knee lifters, with which you can raise and lower the presser foot. That is great for keeping your hands free while sewing. With sewing machines, I would never do without this function. With an overlocker, however, I don't necessarily need it (and I don't have one, either).
Then again, there are many modern overlocker sewing machines that are threaded with air. This means that the threading, which is a cause of fear for many sewing fans, is wonderfully easy and simple. Since I have worked a lot with overlocker machines that are threaded manually, threading no longer strikes terror into me. But the air thread system of a Babylock is unbeatable for me. You can now also find similar air-threading systems at Janome or Bernina.
I recommend that you think carefully about what you want to use the overlocker for. Which functions will you need? What can you do without? Do you want just an overlocker or a combo device consisting of an overlocker and coverstitch (which is then called a coverlock!)?
What you should look out for when buying an overlocker
Buying an overlocker is basically no different from buying a household sewing machine. Before you trot off to the shop to get advice, you should ask yourself the following questions:
- What do I like sewing the most?
- Which fabrics do I process the most often?
- What do I value most when sewing (speed, beautiful seams, noise level, simple operation… or simply EVERYTHING?!)
- What do I want to sew in 3 years?
- Do I need a specialist dealer nearby?
- How much money do I want to spend?
- Can you send the machine in for repair free of charge?
- Will you get an instructional briefing on the machine on-site?
- Is there the possibility of taking the ovi for maintenance and, if necessary, repair directly on-site?
There are so many ovis with different functions that everyone will find the perfect machine for them.
My tip: Try out as many different brands and machines as possible. And listen to your gut feeling. Don't buy a machine because you once heard somewhere that it’s supposed to be great. Or that it’s THE machine that everyone absolutely must have.
That might apply to some people. But not necessarily to you. You will find your machine if you allow yourself enough time and listen to what your intuition tells you while test-sewing.
If a machine feels good, if it sounds pleasant, and is easy to operate: take it.
Are you looking for a combination of overlocker and coverlock? Then read my test report on the Baby Lock Gloria!
Instruction on the overlocker
It is best to arrange an appointment for an instructional briefing directly. That is the safest way to get comfortable with your new acquisition. Make sure not to try out every single seam and stitch. You will forget them within a very short time anyway. You have an operating manual that will help you find the right settings even for more exotic stitch types.
What you should definitely have them show you, and subsequently practice yourself under supervision several times, is the threading. That is the part that really freaks out most sewing beginners. And also the part that is hardest to show.
So, if you can find a specialist dealer who takes the time to do that: make use of it. You will approach the whole thing with much more confidence afterward.
A small tip on the side: So that you can manage well at home, you can make a small mobile phone video of the threading of the upper and lower looper. The needle threads are a breeze anyway. Then you will have the feeling of being able to act, even if the whole thing doesn't seem quite familiar to you yet. You will get the hang of it over time, I promise. Practice makes perfect, even with the ovi.
Take a few notes during the briefing; you will often receive important tips and information on the side that will prove very useful later when you are alone with the machine. You can also think of questions beforehand that absolutely must be answered in the briefing. Write them down, because in the heat of the moment, you quickly forget one or two decisive points. Always remember: there are no stupid questions.
A particularly clever move: Grab a few samples of your most frequently sewn fabrics and take them to the briefing. Then you can have them show you directly which stitches look best on your fabric.
Speaking of looking good: Many of your future projects could, since you are now the proud owner of an ovi, be sewn with a fine rolled hem. What few people consider: for a rolled hem, you have to thread the ovi differently or convert it a little. Depending on the model, of course. So, have them show you in great detail how that works on your "new one."
That is a good opportunity to check directly whether the work processes are also described and illustrated understandably in the operating manual. A good operating manual can also be a purchasing criterion. See whether you can understand everything well or whether the manual sounds like gibberish. It is written for you. Yes, exactly. For YOU. And you need to make sense of it. Without having completed a degree in electrical engineering beforehand (unless you would find that exciting).
A note on tension: Make sure you have it explained to you exactly when you need to change the thread tension and how you can undo everything. Your notebook will also serve you well later as a memory aid. Because you will never be offered such detailed, real-time instruction again as you will during your introductory session. So: eyes and ears open and make sure you take notes.
One final piece of advice: Don't leave the hallowed halls without your new overlocker being completely threaded and ready for use. Perhaps even with a thread color that matches the fabrics you sew most often. That way, you can get started right away once you're home.
Why is this important? The most important thing of all is to lose your fear of the overlocker. And that happens by simply using it. Your overlocker is only human, too. But you really have to find that out for yourself.
What I would really urge you to do: Don't just look at the price when buying an overlocker. Buy the best and most solid machine you can possibly afford. Especially at the beginning, you don't really know if you'll be sewing as often as you imagine. I'm telling you: If your machine is complicated to handle, you will definitely stuff it right in the back of the closet and only take it out again when you want to sell it on eBay Classifieds.
By the way: It doesn't always have to be a new machine. Many dealers offer refurbished machines or display models at very moderate prices. Often even with a warranty. This is usually due to trade-ins on new purchases. In this case, you get a really good, already "broken-in" machine that has been thoroughly checked. With a little stamp of approval on it. You can also ask your local specialist dealer if they have any trade fair models or returned items for sale. You might just snag a fantastic machine for a small price. Of course, you can also buy a used overlocker.
How much does an overlock sewing machine cost?
Let’s talk turkey: How much money do you need to spend if you want to buy a decent overlock sewing machine?
The price differences are truly enormous, so there is something for every need and budget. Between 200 and 4000+ euros, just about anything is possible.
Let's take a closer look. I've linked to overlock machines here that already stand out due to the large number of their reviews. Many of the machines have 4 or 5 stars on Amazon, so the risk of doing something really wrong with these models is relatively low. The question, however, is always: Is it the right overlocker for you personally?
The cheapest overlock models: 200 - 300 euros
- Gritzner 788*: 5-star Amazon bestseller with standard LED lighting and waste bin, sometimes with multiple sewing feet
- Brother 2104D*: Rated 4.5 stars, with LED lighting and threading aid for the lower looper, plus: instructional DVD
- Singer 14SH754*: 4.5 stars on Amazon, an affordable model from the traditional manufacturer, though threading is said to be a challenge here
- Brother 1034DX*: 4.5 stars, a model that Simone from the "Nähcafé am Wasserturm" uses in her sewing classes and which has proven to be extremely robust.
Mid-range overlock models: 300 - 500 euros
- Janome 8002D:* 5 stars, solid, surprisingly quiet machine that runs forever without much fuss, as one expects from Janome
- Husqvarna Viking Huskylock s15*: 4 stars, solid machine, instructional DVD included
- Singer Heavy Duty 854*: 4.5 stars, specially designed for processing heavy fabrics
Upscale mid-range overlocks: 500 - 900 euros
- Juki MO654DE*: 4.5 stars, entry-level model from Juki, knife can be deactivated, threading aid
- Bernina L450*: 4.5 stars, very solid, reliable machine with generous accessories in typical high-quality Bernina quality; you can see how it is threaded in my video on the topic of overlock threading
- Juki MO214 Kirei*: 5-star machine with good accessories, quiet, uncomplicated and high-quality, produces exceptionally beautiful seams
Expensive overlock models: 900 - 1700 euros
- Janome AirThread 2000D*: 5 stars, high-quality machine with air threading system and large work table as well as LED lighting
- Babylock Enspire*: 4.5 stars; my first overlocker, an absolute workhorse, manual thread tension, yet easy to use, high-quality workmanship, seams are just as beautiful as those of the Baby Lock Acclaim
- Bernette 64 Airlock*: 5 stars, air threading system, large working area
Really expensive overlock models: from 1700 euros
- Babylock Acclaim:* 5 stars, my current overlocker model, LEDs, automatic thread tension, semi-automatic needle threader, also with air threading, air threading system for the loopers, highly recommended (anyone can sew with this one!)
- Bernina L850*: 5 stars, knee lift, air threading system, additional slide-on table, waste tray, generous accessories
- Babylock Gloria*: 5-star high-end combination unit, i.e., overlock and coverstitch in one, with an extra-large clearance, knee lift, presser foot lift, speed control (rare in the overlock sector, unlike with sewing machines)
The important thing is: In their basic functions, overlock sewing machines hardly differ at all. All of them can sew, cut, and finish in a single step.
But it is also true: If you want more fun with your overlocker, it will cost more. For knee lifts, air threading, presser foot lift functions, or particularly quiet sewing, you generally pay significantly more.
However, it is quite possible that a cheap machine can even produce prettier seams and a more accurate stitch pattern than an expensive one...
Which overlock accessories do I need?
Overlock machines usually come with accessories, for example, thread spool caps for different cone sizes, thread nets for perfect unwinding, or a screwdriver for changing needles. It's great if the machine also has a waste bin, because overlockers create a lot of scraps. Baby Lock offers waste bins that fit their respective models perfectly. Extremely practical, as they not only have a compartment for fabric clips, but also a needle magnet.
Are cheap overlock sewing machines any good?
Assuming that cheap overlock sewing machines are fundamentally bad would be jumping to conclusions. Even a 300-euro machine can certainly produce nice seams and be extremely durable and robust. If you don't need a lot of comfort, you will probably be happy with a cheap overlock model that you have to thread by hand from A to Z.
The important thing is simply that you familiarize yourself with the device and gradually lose your fear of trying things out. Then there is absolutely nothing to be said against trying it out with a budget model.
I would strongly advise first-time buyers against buying a machine as a supermarket offer. Of course, these machines are also usable. But in my experience, such an impulse buy then ends up sitting untouched in a corner or in the closet.
The reason: There is no introduction/instruction. These are cheap machines where threading is more difficult and the instruction manual is often not particularly clear.
The same applies to online purchases. The price war online is extremely tough, which is why you can often get the machines cheaper than in specialist shops. But the problem remains the same: the lack of instruction. Sewing fans who have had such experiences usually end up in a specialist shop sooner or later to buy a new (high-quality) machine plus the luxury of good instruction.
By the way, many specialist dealers refuse to provide instructions for a sewing machine bought at a supermarket or online shop, or they charge a lot of money for the instruction. So it really is worth it for first-time buyers to go to a specialist shop.
How does an air threading system work
Many more expensive overlock sewing machines are equipped with an AirThread system. It works a little differently for every manufacturer. With Babylock, the upper and lower loopers are equipped with a system of small channels, and the threads are inserted into the beginning of these channels.
With the push of the threading button, the thread is blown through the channel system and lands exactly where it should: under the presser foot. Now you can start sewing right away.
YouTube video about the overlocker
In my video, I show how my Bernina overlocker is threaded. This will give you a good idea of how an overlocker works and what each thread color is for. Plus, there are lots of tips about overlockers.
How does an overlock machine work?
Overlock sewing machines work with up to two needles, plus an upper and a lower looper. The loopers form the loops on the top and bottom, while the needles secure these loops and at the same time connect the fabric layers.
When sewing, two knives are set in motion to cut the fabric. The upper knife is movable and can be deactivated. The lower knife is firmly built into the machine and acts as the counterpart to the upper knife. You can also sew and finish with the knife deactivated without trimming the fabric edge.
Overlock needles
The overlocker sews at a high speed. That is why many manufacturers recommend overlock needles that are designed for high-speed sewing. These needles are specially hardened and have a sturdy shank.
Which needles for the overlocker?
When your overlocker arrives, it usually comes with a small box of needles as standard. These are the needles that the manufacturer recommends for your overlocker from the start.
If you want to do yourself a favor, you should get one or two spare packs right away so that you always have some on hand.
The needles are designated with different system numbers. You should pay attention to this type designation; you will also find it as a recommendation in the instruction manual of your overlocker.
For some machines, for example, universal needles with system number 130/705H in sizes 70 - 90 are recommended for woven fabrics, while needles with a ball point should be used for jersey or other fine, stretchy fabrics. Here, needles with the type designation 130/705 H-S could be considered; alternatively, you might sometimes see SUK, HAx1SP, or ELx705 on the packaging.
The needle size always depends on the thickness of the fabric. While fine batiste can easily manage with a size 70 needle, heavy denim probably needs a size 80 - 90 needle. The same applies to fine jersey and thick sweatshirt fabric.
As long as you stick to what the manufacturer recommends, nothing can go wrong.
How often should you change overlock needles?
Your overlock needles need to be in tip-top condition for the seams to be beautiful and durable. A test seam will tell you whether the needles are really in order.
You should change overlock needles if they
- are crooked or bent
- show notches or sharp spots on the shank
- are blunt or damaged
It is best to replace both needles at the same time: if one is damaged, it is highly likely that the second needle has also been affected, even if it is not immediately visible.
For complex projects that place high demands on your overlocker needles, such as a softshell jacket, I recommend using fresh needles from the start. Replace the needles once your project is finished, and you will be on the safe side.
My tip: To keep track of when the needles were replaced, you can use a post-it note with the date of the change as a small reminder and stick it to the back of your overlocker.
Side note: Can I use twin needles for my overlocker?
Well, you might think so, right? Especially since two needles can be inserted anyway. It would be really practical to just put a twin needle into the overlocker, wouldn't it?
But hey, I have to disappoint you. That doesn't work. As you can see in the picture, your overlocker needles are positioned at different heights. This ensures that the right needle pierces the fabric first, followed by the left one.
Consequently, the needle channels are also located on the right and left sides.
A twin needle would have to be positioned in the center, which doesn't work with an overlocker anyway. Hopefully, that will keep you from trying it out. ;)
How do you change overlock needles?
Once you have found the correct needle for your project, you just need to insert it. But how?
First things first: Turn the machine off. Why is this important? Because in the heat of the moment, you could accidentally touch the foot pedal and start the machine, which could cause serious injury. So, simply switch it off or unplug it. And then you are ready to go.
Let’s start by placing a sheet of paper (or a post-it, which you’ll have handy if you followed my advice and stuck the date of the last needle change on the back of your machine) under the presser foot. (Was that sentence complicated? Oh well, never mind. You know what I'm getting at.)
Here is how to change the overlock needles:
- Lift the presser foot and stick a post-it underneath it.
- Lower the presser foot and use the handwheel to move the needles to their highest position. This gives you room to work.
- Above the needles, you will see two small screws. They are (logically) called needle set screws and remain in the needle holder. So, do not unscrew them completely; just loosen them enough with the small hex screwdriver (also included in the accessories) so that you can remove the needles. If you ever lose one of these little screws: sometimes spare screws are included in the accessory bag, or you can order them from a specialist retailer.
- Carefully remove the needles. The sticky note prevents the needles from slipping inside the machine and causing havoc (as funny as that sounds: stray needles can cause nasty damage inside the overlocker, so keep your eyes peeled and have everything well taped up!).
- Grab the new (fresh, sharp, pointed, wonderful) needles. They are inserted with the flat side facing the back. Push them up high enough until you see their heads appear in the little window at the top of the needle holder.
- Hold the needle in place and tighten the screw. Is the right needle sitting lower than the left? Do a quick test seam. Does it look good? Then you did everything right. Congratulations! :)
The overlock knife
The knife, or rather, the knives, are responsible for cutting off the excess fabric. The whole system consists of a fixed lower knife located under the presser foot and a second, moving knife that can move up and down next to the presser foot.
The cutting width is adjustable on most machines. Take a look at your manual to see how it works on your specific overlocker.
If the knife has become dull (e.g., because you sewed over a pin, against your better judgment), it can be replaced.
Some manuals include instructions on how to do this yourself.
My tip: Only attempt this if you feel truly confident and capable.
To avoid sewing over pins, you can simply place them 2 to 3 centimeters away from the fabric edge. Or you can use fabric clips right from the start, then nothing can go wrong. :)
By the way: The knives can also become dull even if you haven't sewn over pins. After a while (depending on how much you sew, of course), they will get dull. This often takes quite a while, but it is part of normal material wear and tear.
A sign of a dull knife can be that the cut edge looks "frayed" or is not cut perfectly straight. The seam loops will hide this for a while, but eventually, it becomes obvious. So, check your seams every now and then!
The overlock loopers
The loopers on an overlock machine are responsible for the loopy part of the seam. This is why they consume so much thread. You might notice that the thread cones for the upper and lower loopers run out much faster than the needle threads, right? Now you know why. :)
The upper looper
The upper looper is responsible for the loops that are wrapped around the threads on the top of the seam. Here, it is threaded with blue thread.
Because the overlocker has no bobbin, the upper and lower loopers essentially take over the job of the bobbin.
The threads coming from the upper and lower loopers are not pulled through the fabric.
The lower looper
The lower looper (threaded with red thread here) creates the loops seen on the bottom of the seam.
The auxiliary looper
The auxiliary looper is an inconspicuous little hook attached to the upper looper. It can be flipped forward and backward and is crucial if you want to sew a 2-thread overlock seam. In that case, the upper looper is blocked using this hook.
What is an overlock seam and what does it look like?
The characteristic of an overlock seam is the loops that encase the fabric edge and ensure that it cannot fray. The loops from the upper and lower loopers meet at the fabric edge. The needle threads secure the loops and connect the fabric layers to each other.
The fact that overlock seams are elastic makes them perfect for stretchy fabrics such as jersey, sweatshirt fabric, knitwear, Nicki, and many other knitted fabrics.
Feel free to read my blog post on sewing stretchy fabrics.
The thread tension of the overlock
The fast working speed of the overlocker makes it necessary for the sewing thread to be controlled as it passes through the machine. This is the job of the thread tension.
The small hook where the thread is tensioned after entering the machine is called the thread pre-tension.
Next, hold the thread between your hands and pull it taut. Think of it like dental floss, and you've got it. Once tensioned, the thread is now pushed between the tension discs of the thread tension.
- If the presser foot is lowered, the thread tension is active.
- If the presser foot is raised, the thread tension is loose.
Make sure that the threads are firmly seated in the thread tension. If you pull them out and hear a little "bling," everything is correct. :)
Which thread for the overlocker?
Overlockers can handle almost any fabric – but can they handle all threads? Let's put it this way: many!
What are overlock cones?
Typical for overlock threads are the large cones, which can hold as much as 5,000 meters of thread.
Overlock cone is a collective term for all all-purpose overlock threads. They are usually made of polyester and have a weight/thickness of 120. This makes them thinner than standard all-purpose sewing machine threads.
Nowadays, there are also increasingly high-quality and durable 100% cotton overlock threads*. Highly recommended if sustainability is important to you. Unfortunately, these cotton thread cones are currently only available in a few colors. I like using the cream-white thread and am very satisfied with the beautiful seams it produces. For the left needle, I then use a cotton thread in the color of the fabric. Works perfectly!
If you cannot find cotton threads for your overlocker, you can also use cotton sewing machine threads*. I always end up using the Gütermann cotton thread*, which is absolutely reliable. Don't worry, even if the seam is sewn with cotton thread, it remains beautifully elastic. Because it is not the thread that creates the elasticity, but the construction of the seam.
The polyester threads are also very durable and suitable for all fabric types. The needle size that a thread is suitable for is often indicated on the sticker on top of the thread cone for branded threads. My favorite thread for the overlocker comes from Mettler and is called Trojalock.*
You can thread overlock thread into both the needles and the loopers.
All-purpose sewing thread for the overlocker
There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a high-quality all-purpose sewing thread. However, it gets used up quickly on an overlocker, as even the large 1,000-meter spools run out fast on the overlocker loopers. Ultimately, it is also a question of price, because good all-purpose threads with 100 meters of length can easily cost as much as an overlock cone with 5,000 meters.
Basically, you can use all-purpose thread in the needles and loopers, and for all fabrics anyway.
To prevent the small sewing thread spools from jumping up and down uncontrollably (they aren't used to such speeds!), you should place one of the spool caps on top of the thread spool. Then the spool will run much more smoothly.
What to do if I don't have overlock thread in the fabric color?
That's a bummer, right? If the overlock thread differs significantly from the fabric color, it can sometimes be seen peeking through the seam, especially with stretchy fabrics. That’s not so cool. What can you do? Try equipping your left needle with an all-purpose thread in the color of the fabric, or perhaps a shade or two darker. Then the seam will look beautiful and inconspicuous from the outside.
By the way: You can also mix your desired seam color yourself using the threads you have in stock!
Here is how it’s done: Use a color in the left needle that matches the fabric well. This makes the seam quite unobtrusive from the right side of the fabric. For the right needle and for the loopers, you can get really colorful. For example, you can build up your desired color by using different shades of the same hue. Or you can opt for strong contrasts and enjoy an extra eye-catcher when wearing the garment.
What is woolly nylon thread good for?
Woolly nylon thread is a polyester thread that is minimally twisted or not twisted at all. The fine filaments form a web (how poetic!) that can be sewn (almost) like a normal thread in the machine but spreads out in the seam, bulking up (hence the name) to become very soft, voluminous, and pleasant.
Woolly nylon thread is particularly well-suited for all seams that might feel uncomfortable when worn. So, it's great for underwear, swimwear, baby clothing, necklines, and much more.
Most machine manufacturers recommend threading woolly nylon thread only into the loopers. This makes perfect sense because the loopy part makes up the largest part of the overlock seam. If it is nice, soft, and bulky, the entire seam will be too.
The result is a fluffy, soft, elastic seam that feels incredibly velvety and wears even better.
My tip: If the woolly nylon thread splits when threading the loopers, you can hold the end of the thread together with a small knot. Then you can easily pull it through the loopers using tweezers.
Decorative threads for the overlock
These are also usually only used in the loopers: decorative threads such as variegated threads, embroidery threads, decorative threads, or metallic threads are a great highlight for your handmade projects. You can use them to decorate edges, create eye-catching rolled hems, or to make flatlock seams really stand out.
My tip: Metallic threads are beautiful, but they can be quite scratchy. If you want to use them to embellish clothing, it's better to use them for outer seams so they don't bother you while wearing the garment. And you can sparkle right along with your smile.
You can, of course, also use different threads for the upper and lower loopers. This can create a truly beautiful effect.
Elastic threads for the overlock
There are now good elastic sewing threads available that create elastic seams even with non-elastic stitches on a sewing machine. Of course, you can use these (rather expensive) threads in the overlocker too. However, since overlock seams are inherently elastic, this is an investment that doesn't necessarily pay off. A good all-purpose thread serves the same purpose here.
Easy overlocker threading
All overlock machines are threaded according to a similar pattern. The path of each individual thread is marked with a color code (usually small colored dots), showing you the path the thread must take through the machine for everything to work properly.
Every machine comes with a threading guide that also tells you which color belongs to which looper or needle. And in what order the machine should be threaded.
The upper looper is always threaded first. Then the lower looper, then the right needle, and finally the left needle.
If the lower looper thread is not positioned over the upper looper thread, no seam can be formed.
The order for overlocker threading:
- Upper looper (2nd cone from the right)
- Lower looper (1st cone from the right)
- Right needle (2nd cone from the left)
- Left needle (1st cone from the left)
You can also find a very detailed blog post on overlocker threading here at SewSimple. Of course, it also includes a YouTube tutorial on how to thread an overlocker.
Re-threading the overlocker by tying on
The so-called knot method is suitable when the overlocker is already threaded.
Here’s how it's done:
- Cut all threads behind the thread stand
- Replace the old thread cones with the new ones
- Tie the new thread to the old thread
- Raise the presser foot and pull the threads through the machine (lifting the foot loosens the thread tension, allowing the threads to slide through more easily)
- When the knots reach the needles, cut the knots off and thread them through the eyes manually
- Sew a test seam
Cleaning and maintaining your overlocker
The overlocker doesn't just produce tons of fabric scraps and thread remnants: it also frequently attracts dust like a magnet. This is due to its electrostatic charge.
You can remove the dust from the machine with a brush; a vacuum cleaner attachment is also practical. Most overlockers come with a small, stiff brush, the back end of which is shaped to a slight point. You can use the pointed end to loosen oily lint from the metal parts.
In addition, I use a makeup brush because its longer handle helps me reach inaccessible areas more easily.
To clean dust off the casing, you can use an anti-static cloth.
I also always keep a can of compressed air spray* within reach, because I can use it to reach areas and mobilize dust bunnies that would otherwise be difficult to access.
Many overlock machines have a small "drawer" under the stitch plate that you can open to let dust and lint fall out.
By the way, annual maintenance for your overlocker is highly recommended!
Oiling the overlocker
You can read in your user manual whether your overlocker needs to be oiled. It is important that you follow the instructions exactly; otherwise, excess oil can end up on the fabric and ruin it.
Conversely, an unoiled machine can become increasingly louder over time and eventually stop working.
Do I need an overlocker?
I would say: that depends! If you enjoy working with elastic fabrics, sewing clothing, or even sportswear and swimwear, an overlocker is a fantastic addition.
Of course, you can (almost) sew everything you sew with an overlocker on a sewing machine as well. But, honestly: an overcasting seam made with a sewing machine is never as beautiful, soft, and elastic as one made by an overlocker.
The advantages of an overlocker
- Stretchy seams: It always and everywhere sews elastic seams
- Time-saving: The overlocker works quickly and efficiently
- Neat: Thanks to the neat finish, garments look beautiful on the inside too
- Smooth seams: Because the overlock thread is thin, the seams are relatively flat and don't press through the fabric
- Good for problematic fabrics: The differential feed ensures that even fine, thick, slippery, and very stretchy materials are processed perfectly
- Versatile: With the right presser feet, you can also sew elastic bands, bead strings, gathers, zippers, piping, and much more
My conclusion on buying an overlocker
Ever since I fell in love with sewing my own clothes, there has been an overlocker in my sewing room (Reading tip: Setting up a sewing room with 15 hacks). Or maybe it's the other way around: ever since I owned an overlocker, I've been crazy about sewing my own clothes.
I love the speed and efficiency of the overlocker. And of course the fact that I don't have to worry about the success of seams or seam beginnings at all. It all happens as if by itself.
I probably wouldn't have even gotten into making fashion without the overlocker... A strange thought.
For me, it is absolutely essential that my overlocker works without problems, is quiet, simple to operate, and that changing thread is quick. If I had to think twice about whether to change to a different color, I would certainly quickly lose interest in overlocking.
If you are not sure whether and which overlocker is right for you, just visit a specialist shop, get some advice, and try out different machines. Only then can you get a feel for what overlock machines can really do for you. I bet you'll be thrilled.
Let me know if this blog post helped you. Or share in the comments which overlocker you like best and why. I look forward to hearing from you.
Happy simple sewing
your Sabine
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