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Sewing a ladder stitch: How to achieve the perfect invisible seam

01.05.2021 by Sabine Schmidt

Matratzenstich nähen: So gelingt die perfekte Zaubernaht

Have you been wanting to know for a long time what a so-called mattress stitch is and how you can sew it? Then take a look at this post, because here you will learn everything you need to know about this magic seam!

The most important things at a glance

  • In this post, you will learn everything about the mattress stitch and how you can easily sew it
  • The mattress stitch is also called a magic seam, blind stitch, or ladder stitch
  • This post contains an illustrated step-by-step guide and a video on sewing a mattress stitch
  • A special feature of the magic seam is that it is sewn from the right side

What is a mattress stitch?

The mattress stitch is also called a magic seam, blind stitch, or ladder stitch. The name ladder stitch comes from the fact that the seam runs parallel and the thread is guided straight, which makes the thread path look like the rungs of a ladder while sewing. However, the various terms all describe the same thing – a professional-looking, invisible seam.

Perhaps you have also had the situation where your sewing project was almost finished, but the turning opening still needed to be closed and you were unsure how to do it most beautifully and inconspicuously? Then the magic seam is exactly what you need now :).

Especially if, like me, you like to sew a cosmetic bag or two! But even if you want to sew a grain pillow, the magic seam is a great way to invisibly close the filling opening.

A mattress stitch is often used to join two pieces of fabric or an opening in a sewn item from the right side, i.e., from the outside. Classically, it is used, for example, when turning sewing projects right side out.

The so-called magic seam gets its name from the fact that it is no longer visible once completed, which looks very nice and professional. From the outside, it looks as if the seam was sewn from the inside.

The mattress stitch is sewn quite simply by hand; you don't need a sewing machine for this seam.

What can I use a magic seam for?

If you have been in the world of sewing for a while, you have surely encountered the magic seam more often, because it can be used wonderfully for so many different sewing projects.

If you are still at the beginning of your personal sewing journey (feel free to read my helpful blog post Sewing Happiness Total), you may have heard of the so-called mattress stitch and wondered what it was all about and how you could sew it...?!

Many sewing fans are initially very intimidated by this magic stitch and prefer to avoid it at first, but that is really completely unfounded. Because even though it looks so special and magical, it is basically quite simple to sew and, honestly, actually rather unspectacular!

How often have I been annoyed by unsightly, conspicuous seams on the turning opening that unfortunately don't let the whole sewing project shine the way it should... That is really such a shame after having put so much time, fabric (do you know my blog post Which fabric for what?), and energy into such a sewing work.

The magic seam is particularly suitable for turning openings in sewing projects that are filled (for example, if you want to sew a reading bone) or have a lining, as it allows you to close a seam after turning or stuffing a sewing project without it being visible afterward.

The mattress stitch is particularly popular when sewing with knit fabric, sewing cushions, or making stuffed animals, but also for many other sewing projects and fabrics where a normally closed turning opening would simply look unsightly.

More for sewing beginners

What accessories do I need for the mattress stitch?

You don't need much for a mattress stitch at all! It's nice if the sewing thread matches your sewing work in color. Ideally, the thread should be 1 - 2 shades darker than the fabric.

Why is that? Because the thread is usually visible in the seam shadow. And less light falls there than on the top side.

Basically, the thread is hardly or not at all visible in the end, but it is nicer in case a little bit should shimmer through. This could be the case, especially with thinner or lighter fabrics, and that would of course be a shame.

And, very important to know: You don't need a sewing machine for the mattress stitch.

For a beautiful magic seam you need the following materials at home:

Video guide for the mattress stitch

We wouldn't be SewSimple if there wasn't a YouTube video for sewing the mattress stitch, would we? ;)

Help, my magic seam is puckered and wavy!

Then you probably made the stitches too large or didn't sew at a right angle.

Can I sew the magic seam with a sewing machine?

Unfortunately, no. Of course, you can close the turning opening close to the edge with a sewing machine. But then it is not a classic magic seam. :)

Can I also use the mattress stitch for knitting and crocheting?

Of course! Depending on how coarse-meshed your crochet project or knitted piece is, you make the stitches a bit longer in this case. Usually, 5 - 6 millimeters are very good.

My conclusion

While writing this post, I noticed so many things again that I would like to share with you.

First and foremost: Be curious and open to new things! Often you hear a term every now and then that is quite present in the sewing world, but you don't dare to approach it because it would be something unknown and new to you. You often doubt beforehand whether you are capable of learning and understanding it.

One often tends to prefer to do what one knows and can do and where one feels safe. Of course, you do well with that and frustration is avoided and successes become visible. But at some point, you reach the point where you become curious about what else there is and you carefully crawl out of your comfort zone. And then you suddenly notice: Wow, that's not so hard and it's actually even fun!

And even if it's maybe not perfect right at the beginning, many new experiences of success appear in other areas, which one would not have thought possible.

And in this way, you gradually acquire more and more knowledge and skills and enjoy a beautifully sewn, invisible mattress stitch!

And if this post has encouraged you to practice the magic stitch and you feel like using it more often, then I am very happy!

And of course, I am also happy about a comment:)

Happy simple sewing,

your Sabine

Sewing magic seam

Frequently asked questions

What is a magic seam?

A magic seam is a way to close open gaps in seams from the right side of the fabric. Specifically, in such a way that the finished seam is invisible.

What can I use a magic seam for?

Magic seams appear on many sewing, knitting, and crochet projects that are turned or sewn shut from the right side. When sewing, you can, for example, close the turning opening of bags with the mattress stitch, and when knitting, you use it to sew in sleeves.

What do I need for a magic seam?

You only need a thread that is 1 - 2 shades darker than the fabric color. Also a sewing needle and scissors.

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Step-by-step instructions

Tutorial: Ladder stitch

If you're sewing a ladder stitch for the first time, you can work through these illustrated instructions step by step to create an invisible seam that closes a turning gap like magic.

  1. Step

    Step 1: Prepare the thread with a knot

    Start by tying a nice big knot in the end of your thread. A good way to do this is to wrap the thread around the needle several times. Then hold it and pull the needle up through it. The knot will slide all the way to the end on its own. Pull it tight there.

    Step 1: Prepare the thread with a knot
  2. Step

    Step 2: Prepare the turning gap

    Press the seam allowances of the turning gap inwards so that the section between the two machine seams forms a nice straight edge. Pin the edges together with one or two pins.

    Step 2: Prepare the turning gap
  3. Step

    Step 3: Sew the ladder stitch step by step

    Now sew according to this scheme: insert the needle from below into the seam allowance right at the end of the machine seam. Bring the needle out at the top in the fold.

    Take the thread across to the other side at a right angle to the seam. Insert the needle exactly level with the thread and bring it out again in the fold after 2 – 3 millimetres.

    Repeat this step until the end: take the thread across at a right angle to the seam, insert, bring out and cross over to the other side.

    Hold the fabric at the start of the seam and pull gently and carefully on the thread. Now you can see the seam closing and becoming almost invisible from the outside.

    Step 3: Sew the ladder stitch step by step
  4. Step

    Step 4: Secure and cut the thread

    Sew like this to the end of the seam. When you get there, secure the thread in the seam by making two or three stitches. Then make a knot and guide it with the needle right up close to the seam.

    Insert the needle directly into the seam and bring it up again in the fabric. Pull the thread a little. You will see that this makes the knot disappear. Now you can cut the thread and let the thread end disappear into the fabric.

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About the author

Sabine

I come from Siegen-Wittgenstein, where I spent my childhood breaking in cows, jumping off haystacks and scraping a D- in needlework class.

Today, being creative feels like indescribable happiness to me – and it grows even more when I can share it with others. Since 2016 I have been celebrating my passion for sewing on this blog, and I love that sewing connects so many people.