Presser feet: All questions about 36 presser feet answered

Presser feet and their use: Here is the ultimate presser foot guide to help you find your way through the jungle of sewing machine feet.

The most important facts at a glance

• Presser feet have different functions and purposes
• Not every presser foot fits every sewing machine
• Presser feet are also available for overlock and coverstitch machines
• You will find an overview here with explanations of presser feet and their use
• At the bottom of the post, you will find a PDF overview of 36 different presser feet (to download and print)

What is a presser foot?

A presser foot is the part of the sewing machine that ensures the fabric is smoothed out while sewing. At the same time, the presser foot works with the feed dog to create pressure. The fabric is held between the presser foot and the feed dog, lifted, and moved forward stitch by stitch.

Which presser feet do I absolutely need?

When I started sewing, I really had a lot of questions: What presser feet are there? Which presser feet are useful? Are the different presser feet compatible with all sewing machines? Are presser feet standardized? And what is the function of each presser foot? Where can I find an explanation of the areas of application and use of the feet?

Over time, I have tried many machines. And I have also tested presser feet in daily use.

There are presser feet for many sewing ideas, projects, and occasions. But some are quite specific. Therefore, it is worth taking a look at the presser feet that you really should have in your basic accessories.

But of course, we will also take a look further down at what presser feet even exist, what they can be used for, and how they are used.

Let’s start with the absolutely necessary feet.

When you buy a new sewing machine, it comes equipped with a basic package of the most important feet. Usually, a zigzag foot is already installed on the machine. This is the universal foot with which you can handle pretty much anything.

In addition, a zipper foot is usually included. This is also irreplaceable.

You can't do anything without these two truly essential presser feet. It's good to have them.

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What do I need the presser feet for?

Each presser foot fulfills a function. Some presser feet even have multiple functions or areas of application. It always gets confusing when different-looking feet fulfill the same function. Or when you can’t even tell what they are supposed to be used for.

The crux is: the presser feet usually come without any description to show you how the foot is applied. Almost always, there is also a lack of information on the required stitch types or areas of application. This makes it practically impossible for beginners to get a good overview. With the result that many sewing beginners don't even try out their presser feet and, completely discouraged, stow them away at the very back of the cupboard.

Yet there are definitely presser feet that can make your life significantly easier. Because they make work so precise. Because they are particularly well-suited for special materials. Or make certain sewing techniques possible in the first place.

If you use the original feet from certain manufacturers, it is quite possible that the feet are marked with letters. With the help of the letters, you can select the suitable stitch pattern for that foot. This ensures that the needle does not break due to a stitch that is too wide.

By the way, special presser feet are not only available for domestic sewing machines. They are also available for the coverstitch machine and the overlocker.

How do I use the presser feet?

Most presser feet are simply clipped onto the presser foot holder.

That means: You remove the raised presser foot by pressing the small release button. The button is usually located on the back of the presser foot holder.

The presser foot comes loose and you can insert another foot in its place. This system can work differently depending on the manufacturer. We will come to that in the next section.

How do I use the guide on the presser foot?

How do I change presser feet?

Changing the presser foot. You might think at first: No problem. But then you might notice that the presser feet do differ in their design. I will show you a few examples of how you can remove and insert presser feet.

Insert presser foot on the presser foot holder

Before you change the presser foot, you should turn off the machine; according to the operating instructions, you may even want to unplug it.

First, you must remove the presser foot. To do this, raise the needle and the presser foot. You don't necessarily have to remove the needle to change the presser foot.

However, if you are worried about getting hurt, it is better to take the needle out.

Press the release button on the back of the presser foot holder.

The presser foot now falls out of the holder by itself.

Now you need the presser foot you want to insert. I am using one with a snap-on system again. You can recognize it by the small bar in the middle.

Place the presser foot with the small bar exactly under the notch of the presser foot holder.

If you lower the presser foot now, the foot clicks automatically into the notch. On some machines, this is easier if you press the release button again.

Adapter for presser foot

If your presser foot adapter—that is, the presser foot holder—breaks or gets lost, you don't have to replace the whole machine immediately. You can order such a replacement adapter for little money, either as an original component or as one suitable for many brands.

Important: The adapter should match your system and fit your machine.

➡️^* Order adapter for Juki, Janome, Singer, Brother, etc.^*

➡️^* Order adapter for Bernina^*

Attach presser foot to the presser foot bar

Some presser feet are not clicked in but screwed on. This is what it looks like, for example:

To attach the presser foot, you don't just have to remove the foot, but also the presser foot holder.

You can simply unscrew it.

My tip: When you change the presser foot for the first time, you should take a photo with your phone. Then you can use it as a reference when putting it back together.

Remove the presser foot holder and turn the screw out far enough so that the presser foot can comfortably snap onto the screw.

Once the foot is seated firmly and securely, you can tighten the screw.

This is what it should look like now:

Attaching a presser foot with a lever/bar

Some presser feet have small levers (or bars) that ensure the presser foot is lifted reliably. This looks something like this, for example:

This foot is also screwed directly onto the needle bar. In doing so, the small lever lies over the needle clamp.

Then just tighten the screw. And you're ready to go.

Many presser feet are replaced using this system. However, there are exceptions: Bernina, for example, uses a slightly different system. You can recognize Bernina presser feet by the long shank on the foot.

Presser foot overview as an infographic and PDF

As a print-quality PDF: Download presser foot overview (PDF)

Information on presser foot manufacturers and special features

Presser feet are not standardized, so they cannot be freely combined with one another. This means: Not every presser foot fits every machine. Let's take a closer look at this sorted by manufacturer.

I should add: various manufacturers have also developed different presser foot systems over time. That is why not all presser feet from one manufacturer are necessarily suitable for all their mentioned machine models.

I am not familiar with all systems and have not worked with all machines; I am only giving you a brief overview here that refers to sewing machines currently available on the market.

By the way, there are presser foot sets^* that fit many sewing machines from different manufacturers. Usually, such a set can be had for under 30 euros. And thus it is significantly cheaper than buying original feet individually. Such a set makes perfect sense if you want to test for yourself which feet you would actually like to use on a permanent basis.

Unfortunately, for example, the instructions are missing for the 42-piece presser foot set, so many sewing enthusiasts are perfectly equipped with feet but never use them due to a lack of information.

Pfaff presser feet

The special feature of Pfaff presser feet is the two small metal pins that are clicked into the presser foot holder. Many other presser feet are equipped with a continuous bar.

➡️^* Here is the presser foot set specifically for Pfaff sewing machines^*.

Bernina presser feet

Bernina uses a different technique than many other manufacturers to attach presser feet. The feet are plugged onto the presser foot holder and secured with a clip/lever.

You can recognize Bernina presser feet by their long shank. A special feature: Bernina provides a particularly abundant selection of presser feet that also allow for very specific sewing techniques. For example, there is an embroidery foot with which you can embroider very beautiful eyelets, e.g., for hoodies.

➡️^* Here is the presser foot set specifically for Bernina sewing machines.^*

W6 presser feet

W6 equips its sewing machines with simple presser feet using a bar system, which is also used by Brother, Juki, and Singer, for example. They are attached using the same snap-on technique.

Singer presser feet

Singer presser feet are equipped with the "standard" snap-on system that Brother, W6, Juki, and Singer also use.

Brother presser feet

Same story: Brother presser feet are identical in construction to Juki, W6, and Singer.

Janome presser feet

Janome also makes use of the snap-on system, so the feet are also simply clipped on. However, on some machines, the bar is designed to be wider. The feet for my Janome Horizon are, for example, not compatible with those for my Juki. The presser foot set mentioned above does not necessarily fit Janome^* either.

Overlock presser feet

A special category is overlock or coverlock presser feet. They offer you the possibility of applying special sewing techniques. For my Babylock machines, for example, there is a ready-made original kit^* that includes a beading foot, blind stitch foot, gathering foot, piping foot in 2 widths, and an elastic foot.

These presser feet also fit my coverstitch machine from Babylock.

A similar overlock foot set^* is also available for Singer (though much more reasonably priced).

Presser feet for industrial sewing machines

Industrial sewing machines work with a different foot system. Personally, I find these narrow, unadorned feet totally appealing and beautiful. But unfortunately, they do not fit household sewing machines.

All presser feet and their use

Standard presser foot

The standard presser foot is primarily suitable for zigzag, decorative stitches, and straight stitches. You can use it for light, medium, and heavy fabrics.

This model is equipped with a leveling button that allows you to adjust the level of the presser foot to the fabric height. Read more about it in a post on sewing over thick areas.

At the front, the metal of the presser foot is replaced in the middle area by plastic inserts. This gives you a particularly good view of the sewing area.

Zigzag foot

Also a standard presser foot, with which both straight and zigzag or decorative stitches are possible. This model is not as luxuriously equipped as the standard foot with a leveling button, but it certainly fulfills its purpose as a "foot for all occasions."

➡️ Here you can order the zigzag foot.^*

Zipper foot, snap-on

A zipper foot should not be missing from your accessories. It allows you to get very close to edges—and, as you can see from the recess in the middle, both to the right and left of the foot.

You can therefore adjust the needle position of your machine as desired so that your required distance is maintained.

By the way, the zipper foot can be used not only for inserting zippers but also for sewing tricky or tight areas. For example, when making welt pockets or if you want to sew quite close past multilayered fabric bulges.

➡️ Here you can order the zipper foot.^*

Zipper foot for the presser foot shank (Low shank zipper foot)

Same thing, just different: However, this zipper foot is installed on the presser foot shank. A small (but fine) difference: You can not only change the needle position based on the machine setting, but you can also adjust the distances using the orange-red dial.

Simply loosen it, move the bracket, and fix the dial in the desired position.

➡️ Here you can order the zipper foot.^*

Invisible zipper foot

With this zipper foot, you can sew in invisible zippers. The small groove on the underside ensures that the zipper teeth are held upright. In the same work step, the needle pierces the fabric very close to the teeth and sews the zipper on.

The seam is thereby practically invisibly hidden under the zipper teeth.

Important for this foot to work well: You need an invisible zipper:

You need an invisible zipper, for example, for our sewing pattern for the Frida skirt:

➡️ Here you can order the invisible zipper foot.^*

Overcast foot

With this practical foot, you can finish fabric edges so they do not fray. You can recognize the overcast foot by the guide pin that is slightly bent to the left.

➡️ Here you can order the overcast foot.^*

Edge joining foot

This foot is used for patchwork. The small guide blade of the presser foot is used for orientation. Perfect for stitch-in-the-ditch: i.e., sewing in the ditch of the seam.

The center line between two joined fabric pieces is sewn by following the guide blade through the seam.

You can use this foot to sew straight as well as zigzag and decorative stitches.

This edge joining foot can also appear in other versions, for example with a longer or shorter guide blade. This can be either bent or straight.

You can use any version of this foot to create accurate stitches in the ditch or to join two fabric pieces together edge-to-edge, e.g., with a zigzag stitch.

➡️ Here you can order the edge joining foot.^*

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Blind Hem Foot

The blind hem foot is used for inconspicuous hems, so-called blind hems, on garments. Well-suited for hemming knit fabrics.

Depending on the manufacturer, the blind hem foot can sometimes look like this:

The principle, however, is the same for both designs: the folded hem is guided along the guide rail of the foot while you sew the hem with a blind stitch.

The needle, which pierces to the right, only just catches the fabric. If you sew with thread that matches the fabric color, the stitch is practically invisible from the right side of the fabric.

How the blind hem foot works

Let's take a look at how the blind hem foot works.

Insert the blind hem foot into the presser foot holder. This one works simply with a snap-on system. You can use the small dial to change the distance of the guide rail from the fabric. In any case, you should test on a scrap piece to see if the distance works for your planned hem.

Fold the hem the way it should be on the finished piece: placed wrong sides together toward the inside.

Now fold it back toward the right side of the fabric so that the fabric fold and the fabric edge are at the same level.

If you look at the fabric from above now, you only see the wrong sides of the fabric.

Set your machine to a blind stitch. This is what it looks like:

For a truly inconspicuous seam, you should choose a thread color that is 1–2 shades darker than the fabric.

Guide the rail of the blind hem foot very closely along the fabric fold while you sew. When sewing, make sure that the needle in the left position actually pierces the fabric fold.

The finished seam should look like this now:

On the top side, only the stitches in the fabric fold are visible. If you choose a color-matched thread, the blind stitch on this hem is practically invisible.

➡️ You can order the blind hem foot here.^*

Beading Foot

This foot has a groove on the underside through which strings of beads or sequins can be guided.

Because of the groove on the underside, the foot is also suitable for attaching other decorative elements such as cords or ribbons.

It is attached and used like a completely normal presser foot; the ribbon is simply guided through the groove and sewn on with a straight or decorative stitch.

➡️ You can order the beading foot here.^*

Straight Stitch Foot

Only suitable for straight stitches: the small hole in the presser foot keeps fabric firmly in place, especially for topstitching or straight seams. The small scale on the presser foot allows you to maintain even the finest spacing cleanly.

So don't worry: this little foot looks more specialized than it is. Feel free to try this foot for topstitching edges or zippers: the small hole in the needle plate ensures the seam becomes beautifully even.

The smooth underside provides a good counterpart to the feed dog: the fabric is guided with particularly even pressure as a result.

➡️ You can order the straight stitch foot here.^*

Adjustable Double Fold Bias Foot

The adjustable bias tape foot allows you to cleanly sew on bias tape in a single step. However, it can only be used for straight sections.

How the bias tape foot works

You need bias tape of any width for this. On the front edge, you can see the letters N and W. They stand for "narrow" and "wide".

Slide the bias tape into the foot with the closed side facing the adjustment screw.

Loosen the front screw and adjust it so that the bias tape fits firmly and securely in the guide.

You can now use the rear screw to adjust the distance at which the needle pierces the open edge of the bias tape.

Loosen the screw and adjust the distance so that the needle pierces the fabric 1–2 mm from the edge.

Now you can insert the fabric. The fabric edge is nestled closely against the fabric fold of the bias tape.

At the edge, you can clearly see that the fabric is inside the bias tape up to the fold.

Now the bias tape can be sewn on with a straight stitch.

Of course, you can also sew on bias tape using the classic method. I'll show you how to do that in my post Sewing on Bias Tape: How to conquer this dreaded task!

➡️ You can order the bias tape foot here.^*

Shirring Foot

The shirring foot is a great little helper for gathering fabric edges quickly and easily. It is horizontally divided so that you can slide another layer of fabric into the top part.

When you sew, the top layer of fabric is not gathered, unlike the bottom one. Both fabric layers are sewn together.

The foot is screwed onto the presser foot holder.

How the shirring foot works

This clever presser foot gathers fabrics without any fuss. And that's really cool. My shirring foot attaches to the needle bar. But there are also snap-on versions.

Set a longer straight stitch. I sewed with a 5 mm stitch length. The longer the stitch, the stronger the gather. I also increase the thread tension. And off you go.

This way you can create beautiful ruffles. Perfect for clothing, curtains, decorations, and much more.

It is important that you test the stitch settings on a scrap piece and measure by how much the gathering shortens the fabric edge. Then you can cut your pattern pieces accordingly.

But the real highlight of this presser foot is yet to come.

You might have noticed that the foot is horizontally divided, right? The point of that? If a piece of fabric is also slid into the division, both fabric pieces can be joined in one work step.

Specifically so that the bottom fabric is gathered, but the top fabric remains flat. Magical, right?

Here is how it works: The fabric that should remain flat is placed into the foot with the right side facing down. During this, the needle is in the upper position.

Set a long straight stitch as described above and increase the thread tension. You are ready to go. Looks great, doesn't it?

➡️ You can order the gathering foot here.^*

Buttonhole Foot

A presser foot that might seem intimidating at first glance. However, it is a real achievement, as it sews buttonholes completely automatically and super neatly.

Take a look at my detailed article on sewing buttonholes to see how it works.

The buttonhole foot is attached using the classic snap-on system.

The button is inserted and fixed at the rear end. This step tells the sewing machine the required dimensions of the buttonhole without you having to do or adjust anything yourself.

Before you start the automatic buttonhole function, the sensor must be placed against the guide of the presser foot, depending on the manufacturer. In some cases, the presser foot is also connected to the sewing machine with a small cable.

➡️ You can order the buttonhole foot here.^*

Embroidery & Darning Foot

This foot can also appear in different designs. You can recognize it by the noticeable spring at the upper end and the fact that the foot itself consists of a ring.

You can also use the embroidery & darning foot very effectively for free-motion embroidery. I show you how embroidering with the sewing machine works in a separate blog post.

Usually, the embroidery & darning foot is designed to be attached to the presser foot holder.

This foot is usually used with the feed dogs lowered so that you can guide the fabric by hand. You should reinforce the back of the fabric well beforehand, for example with embroidery stabilizer or Avalon. Embroidery and darning work best if you also stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop.

When choosing your stitch, you should base it on the size of the foot's opening to avoid needle breakage. :) A straight stitch always works, and a narrow zigzag usually does too.

➡️ You can order the embroidery foot here.^*

Darning Foot (Low Shank)

In principle, this foot works similarly to the embroidery & darning foot. However, it is not attached via snap-on, but rather screwed onto the presser foot holder.

➡️ You can order the embroidery foot here.^*

Knit Foot

Worth more than a quick glance: If you don't own a walking foot, this foot can be a real discovery for you. Its underside is equipped with a small blue silicone nub, which helps to feed the fabric cleanly and evenly.

This makes the foot a kind of "little brother" to the walking foot. And just like the walking foot, you can use the knit foot to wonderfully sew elastic or slippery fabrics.

How the Knit Foot works

The foot is attached via snap-on. Important here: The arm of the foot must be positioned above the needle screw.

Now you can place the fabric underneath and get started.

From the side, you can clearly see the small blue silicone stopper. It guides even slippery, soft, and lightweight fabrics nice and evenly.

➡️ You can order the knit foot as part of the set here.^*

Walking Foot

For difficult or thick fabrics, the walking foot is THE savior. It guides the fabric very evenly by transporting it from both the top and the bottom simultaneously. This results in a beautiful stitch pattern and ensures that you can process stretchy, slippery, delicate, or coarse fabrics without any problems.

This presser foot stands out from the others by its size alone: It is large and wide and hides its mechanics behind a plastic casing.

What's special about this foot is its ability to hold, guide, and feed multiple layers of fabric at the same time: It is also perfect for sewing different fabrics together.

You can use it with all types of stitches. It is very suitable for sewing clothing, for quilting, and for patchwork. The large opening of the foot provides a good view of the sewing area. The walking foot is also perfect for working with jersey and stretch fabrics.

I show you how sewing with the walking foot works in a detailed tutorial.

There are also narrow walking feet. They are suitable for narrower seam allowances or for inserting zippers without any puckering.

How the Walking Foot works

The walking foot is screwed onto the presser foot holder. With some manufacturers, a small lever is additionally fixed to the needle screw.

On my Janome, the walking foot is just attached to the presser foot holder and is then ready to go.

Now you can start sewing.

➡️ You can order the walking foot here.^*

Ruffler Foot

This foot looks more complicated than it actually is, so don't be afraid! It is a small marvel of engineering and allows you to create ruffle trim of any possible width.

There are various adjustment options on the foot itself: You can set both the distance between the pleats and the width of each individual pleat.

To calculate exactly how long the fabric needed for your ruffle strip must be for your particular project, you should sew a test piece. For example, I like to sew a ruffle strip from one meter of fabric. Then I can measure exactly by how much the fabric shortens due to the pleating. Using the rule of three, I can then calculate how long the fabric strip required for my sewing project needs to be.

➡️ You can order the ruffler here.^*

Wide Hem Foot

This type of foot works on the principle of a rolled hem. The pre-folded (and possibly pre-pressed) hem is fed into the metal scroll after a few stitches.

This is one of the feet whose functionality I am not really convinced of: Despite all my efforts, the hems become uneven and the fabric keeps slipping out of the scroll. A double-folded and topstitched hem is faster and easier to sew - and above all, neater!

How the wide hem foot works in theory

Similar to a rolled hem, the beginning of the seam should be pressed over to the width of the planned hem. Secure the beginning of the seam with a few stitches and then feed the fabric into the metal scroll. Tutorials: Sewing rolled hems with the sewing machine / Sewing rolled hems with the overlocker.

Set the needle so that it hits exactly in the hem fold and sew the hem in place with a straight stitch.

➡️ You can order the wide hem foot here.^*

Rolled Hem Foot

Definitely nice to have: The rolled hem foot. In the picture, you can see it in different widths.

Tutorials: Sewing rolled hems with the sewing machine / Sewing rolled hems with the overlocker.

On the underside, the rolled hem foot is equipped with a groove. Depending on the manufacturer, this can also run under the entire foot. The width of the groove tells you the width of the finished rolled hem.

Usually, the rolled hem feet are also marked with lines that also provide information about the hem width.

I show you how you can sew with the rolled hem foot in a detailed tutorial.

With this type of foot, too, the hem is pressed at the beginning of the seam to the desired width, fixed with a few stitches, and then fed into the scroll.

When sewing afterward, the fabric should be held taut diagonally along the path of the scroll. This allows it to be drawn into the metal scroll best.

In my experience, the rolled hem foot works much more reliably than the wide hem feet. Especially for delicate fabrics like chiffon, silk, or georgette, the rolled hem foot is really recommended.

And it works with both a straight stitch and the more textured-looking zigzag finish.

➡️ You can order the rolled hem foot here.^*

Instructions: Sewing rolled hems with a sewing machine / Sewing rolled hems with an overlocker.

Cording Foot

With this foot, primarily used in patchwork or mixed media projects, you can sew cords or threads onto fabric. The threads are inserted into the three small guide grooves and fed under the foot.

Threading works best if you have already installed the foot.

Afterward, they are secured to the fabric with a wide stitch, e.g., a zigzag.

➡️ You can order the 3-hole cording foot here.^*

Cording Foot, 5-hole & 7-hole

The function is the same, except that in this version of the foot, the threads are guided through the small holes in the middle of the presser foot. With this foot, you should thread the cords you want to sew on before installing the foot.

For me, the cording foot is one of those sewing feet that you don't necessarily have to own. But anyone who enjoys experimenting and decorating fabrics might really enjoy this presser foot.

➡️ You can order the cording foot here.^*

1/4-Inch Quilting Foot

This foot is primarily used for patchwork and quilting. Its toes are narrowed at the front for the classic measurements required for this. The small hole is designed for straight stitching and helps to keep the fabric neatly under the foot.

➡️ You can order the 1/4-inch foot here.^*

Satin Stitch Foot

Presser foot with a wide opening for satin and decorative stitches. The plastic foot provides a wide field of view of the fabric, so you have good orientation while sewing.

How the satin stitch foot works

Before decorating fabric with a satin stitch, you should reinforce the back with embroidery stabilizer or water-soluble stabilizer so that the fabric doesn't pucker and the threads don't get pulled into the fabric.

If necessary, you can also loosen the thread tension slightly so the seam sits more nicely on the fabric.

Set a very tight zigzag stitch: you should experiment to see what works best for your chosen material. And then you're ready to go.

➡️ You can order the satin stitch foot here.^*

Pintuck Foot

The pintuck foot comes with a varying number of grooves on the front edge. These grooves act like small rails that run over the pintucks already sewn.

This foot is always used in combination with a twin needle.

The pintucks will be more pronounced if you choose a thicker bobbin thread and feed it through the small hole in the bobbin cover.

In this process, the top threads crossing under the fabric catch the thicker bobbin thread.

➡️ You can order the pintuck foot here.^*

Teflon Foot

This great plastic foot, sometimes called a non-stick foot, should not be missing from your collection. At least I find it indispensable.

The Teflon foot is fantastic for the following materials:

• Leather
• Faux leather
• Vinyl/PVC
• Oilcloth
• Oilskin
• Quilted fabrics
• Cork fabric

The links lead you to my detailed blog posts on these special materials.

But now to the Teflon foot:

It features a special non-stick coating and can be used for straight stitching as well as zigzag and decorative stitches. You can also use it in combination with a twin needle. I show you how to sew with a twin needle in a separate post.

➡️ You can order the Teflon foot here.^*

Button Sewing Presser Foot

This little blue wonder is perfect if you don't like sewing buttons by hand. The foot is placed onto the button with its front edge, which is covered in blue silicone. You can then sew the button on with a zigzag stitch.

➡️ You can order the button sewing foot here.^*

Fringe Foot

You don't necessarily need this sewing foot. But it certainly has its place in decorative work. Do you see the small bar in the middle of the foot?

As you sew, the thread is tensioned over this bar, forming loops. These loops can subsequently be processed in various ways.

How the fringe foot works

Loosen the thread tension and install the presser foot. Set a short satin stitch with a narrow stitch width. If you start sewing now, you will see the thread laying over the bar in the middle of the foot. A loop is formed.

This is what the seam then looks like:

To create fringes, you can now sew along the edge of the loop seam with a short straight stitch or a triple straight stitch. In doing so, the loops lay in the direction of the seam.

You can leave the seam as a decorative element. But you can also cut open the loops with pointed scissors:

Pull the threads still protruding into the fabric out from the back side.

From the right side, your loops now look like this:

Several or multi-colored fringes next to each other amplify the effect.

➡️You can order the fringe foot here.^*

Braiding Foot

The braiding foot is suitable for sewing on cords or ribbons.

Through the small, adjustable V-opening at the front of the presser foot, ribbons of different widths can be guided. When you slide the ribbon into the opening and fix it with the small screw, it is pulled perfectly straight under the foot.

If you use elastic band instead, this method creates an elastic hem finish very quickly and easily.

You can sew non-elastic ribbons with elastic or non-elastic stitches. Elastic bands should be sewn on with stretch stitches. You can achieve a nice braided effect with a braid stitch.

Guide the elastic band into the V-shaped groove and pull it all the way under the foot so you can hold it at the back end.

Set an elastic stitch of your choice, place the fabric underneath, and start sewing.

This is what the finished sewn-on ribbon looks like:

Depending on the sewing project, you can stretch the elastic band more or less while sewing.

➡️ You can order the braiding foot here.^*

1/4-Inch Quilt Piecing Guide Foot

One of the sewing feet used especially in patchwork or quilting work. The edge guide allows for precise alignment, while the narrow toes of the presser foot provide a good view of the sewing area.

This foot is also only suitable for straight stitches. Zigzag stitches would cause the needle to break.

➡️ You can order the quilting foot here.^*

Stitch Guide Foot

Clever, this foot! And definitely very useful if you happen to have it ready. You can use it with any type of stitch because it has a wide opening that also leaves enough room for decorative stitches.

The real highlight, however, is the built-in mini ruler, which allows you to work precisely. The markings are really tiny.

For even better guidance, you can mark the ruler with a colored dot at the desired distance. That way, you know exactly where you're going.

➡️ You can order the stitch guide foot here.^*

Patchwork Foot

This straight stitch foot is used for patchwork seams. From the center needle position, there are two seam lines for guidance: 1/4 inch (outer edge of the foot) and 1/8 inch (inner corner).

Wide Opening Presser Foot

A presser foot that gives you a good view of the sewing area. You can use it in many different ways, specifically whenever a good eye for detail is required.

For example, the foot is well-suited for embroidery, darning, or attaching decorative elements.

Open Toe Spring Foot

This foot is suitable for sewing decorative stitches and appliqué work. The foot is widely opened at the front so you can clearly see the sewing area.

➡️ You can order the spring foot here.^*

Welting Foot

Welting feet have a groove on the sole that can be used as a guide when sewing on piping. Where other presser feet would slip, the welting foot really gets going because it runs on the piping track like a train on a rail.

The groove is deep enough that the foot sits firmly on the piping and is guided by it.

You should set the needle position so that the needle pierces right next to the piping. Incidentally, a straight stitch is best for this presser foot.

➡️You can order the welting foot here.^*

Flower Stitching Foot

You might already know this foot from my post Sewing Eyelets Made Easy.

It is designed to sew variable circles. You can use it with all kinds of decorative stitches. It’s also great in combination with a twin needle.

The presser foot is suitable for decorative seams and quilting. To install it, you must unscrew the presser foot holder. The flower stitching foot is screwed directly onto the presser foot bar. The side arm sits over the needle screw and helps to move the foot evenly.

To try it out, just set a zigzag stitch and go for it. It is important that you do not guide the fabric. The machine does it all by itself. Depending on the fabric type and stitch, you should reinforce the back of the fabric and, if necessary, loosen the thread tension slightly.

You can change the size of the circles steplessly with the small screw at the front shown in the picture.

➡️ You can order the flower stitching foot here.^*

Roller Foot

This foot is very well-suited for sewing sticky materials such as

• Leather
• Faux leather
• Vinyl/PVC
• Oilcloth
• Oilskin
• Quilted fabrics
• Cork fabric

The foot is equipped with a small, profiled metal roller that prevents the underside of the foot from sticking to the fabric.

➡️You can order the roller foot here^*.

Overlock & Cutting Foot

Here is a highly interesting foot, the functionality of which always amazes me. It is an overlock foot with an additional cutting function. Theoretically ideal for people who don't (yet) have an overlock machine.

It is designed to finish fabric edges with a zigzag stitch while simultaneously cutting them right next to the overcast seam. Is that even possible? How is it installed? And for which fabrics does it work? I will answer these questions in this section. This is what the overlock foot looks like.

It is equipped with a small wire bar over which the thread is guided evenly. This is intended to prevent the thread from pulling into the fabric edge.

This foot is not attached using the usual snap-on system, but is screwed onto the presser foot bar. To do this, first remove the presser foot holder.

Then slide the arm of the presser foot over the needle screw:

Then the brackets of the presser foot are screwed onto the presser foot bar.

This works best when the presser foot is raised. When tightening, the presser foot aligns itself horizontally. Before starting, check again to see if the foot is really secure.

Let's start with a piece of cotton.

Slide the fabric edge onto the presser foot and under the little blade. It looks like this:

Set a 5 mm zigzag. Important: Before sewing, check that the zigzag stitch does not hit the presser foot. This can lead to needle breakage.

It is best to check with the handwheel whether the stitch can be executed without problems. It is perfect if the top thread runs evenly over the little wire bar.

Now you can start sewing. Note: The fabric edge ends exactly where the blade begins. You therefore usually have a 0.5 cm wide finished edge.

As you sew, you will discover that the fabric separates under the presser foot:

This is what the finished edge looks like now from the right side:

And this is from the wrong side of the fabric:

You might ask yourself: Okay. But does that work for jersey too?

Yes, it works exactly the same way with jersey or sweat fabric. However, there is a risk that the fabric edge will become a bit wavy. The presser foot is therefore great for cotton fabrics and other woven goods, but for stretchy fabrics, I would always prefer the overlock machine.

➡️You can order the Overlock-& Cutting Foot^* here.

Did my presser foot overview help you? And how do you like the infographic?

Feel free to take a minute to leave a comment. It would make me incredibly happy! :)

Happy simple sewing, your Sabine

Frequently Asked Questions