Seams popping: If the seams on your handmade clothing pop, it is truly more than annoying. But why does this even happen? And what can you do about it? Learn now what matters!
The most important things at a glance
- Seams on handmade fashion can pop for various reasons
- It may be due to the thread or thread tension
- Often, however, the choice of needle or stitch is also to blame if the seam comes undone
- Tips and tricks against popping seams: reinforce, check needle and sewing thread, check thread tension
What to do against popping seams?
I can hardly imagine anything more annoying than when the seams on my lovingly handmade clothing pop or unravel in the wash.
But this is exactly what many sewing fans report. For this reason, I have collected my best tips on the topic of "durable seams" in this post. And I will explain to you step by step what can cause seams to break. And what you can do about it.
Is your sewing thread old or poorly made?
Even if you belong to the group of people who have trouble throwing things away: part with old or poorly made sewing thread.
Depending on whether the thread has been exposed to sunlight, it loses color. It can be faded on the surface and significantly darker a few inches further along.
But the real problem with old sewing thread: it loses elasticity over time. If you snag a set of cheap sewing thread at the fabric market or flea market, or if you receive some as a gift: definitely perform a tensile test to see if the thread is truly stable.
For comparison, you can simply pull on a new brand-name thread. If the flea market thread holds up well, you can use it.
How do you recognize inferior sewing thread?
Besides low tensile strength, you can recognize it by a fuzzy, linty surface. It is dull and tears easily.
Poor thread is particularly easy to identify when threading: it frays at the ends and can hardly be pushed through the needle eye.
My tip: Use brand-new and high-quality sewing thread*, which is nicely tear-resistant and characterized by a firmly twisted surface and a beautiful sheen.
In the photo, you can see the difference quite well: on one side the firmly twisted Gütermann thread with a shiny surface, on the other side the less well-made thread from Buttinette.
Does the seam match the fabric?
Seams can pop if the seam does not match the fabric. This is particularly problematic with stretchy fabrics.
Because the fabric stretches. If the seam does not stretch with it, it can pop quickly.
Especially in the shoulder and hem areas, there is tension on the fabric and seam. Non-elastic seams then like to pop.
My tip: You should sew an elastic fabric with an elastic seam.
Is the thread tension too high?
Excessively high thread tension also creates tight, taut seams. This applies to both the sewing machine and the overlocker.
My tip: Test the thread tension on a sample piece. To do this, sew using the fabric being used, the planned seam, and the necessary fabric layers. In other words, do everything exactly as it will be for the real project. Then you are on the safe side.
Have you reinforced your seams?
There are a few types of fabric where it practically begs to reinforce the seams.
These fabrics include, for example:
- Viscose jersey
- Modal
- Nicki (velour)
- many knit fabrics
- most loosely woven materials
Here, the material sometimes needs reinforcement, especially in the shoulder area, so that the seam holds nicely.
My tip: Use seam tape to give your seams an extra dose of support.
How do you use seam tape?
You can simply iron the seam tape* flush in the seam area.
Then let the fabric cool down completely. The plastic of the seam tape is then firmly bonded to the fabric and will not stick to the sewing machine needle.
Now you can process the pattern piece as described in the instructions. The seam tape is simply caught in the seam.
In this way, the tape also ensures that, for example, the seams of Nicki and jersey do not ripple.
Is the needle dull or nicked?
Worn, nicked needles can damage the thread. And they can do so without you being able to see the damaged spot with the naked eye.
The result is scratched, roughened threads that tear under load.
My tip: Remember to replace the needles* regularly. Especially after sewing firm materials like canvas, softshell, or faux leather, I recommend that you replace the needle before you start something new.
And yes: this applies to both the sewing machine and the overlocker. :)
Seams backstitched or forgotten?
Is backstitching annoying? Is finishing off overlock tails annoying? That may be. But it is absolutely necessary.
Seams that are not backstitched come undone millimeter by millimeter during wear or washing. And that doesn't just look unsightly: it can ultimately cost you an entire seam.
Feel free to check out my post on tips & tricks with the overlocker. In it, I explain exactly how you can backstitch overlock seams. There are, after all, different ways to do it. And they all have one thing in common: they are done very quickly. :)
My tip: Make backstitching your seams a good habit. :)
Did these tips help you and do you still have 10 seconds?
Then imagine briefly how much I would appreciate a comment from you! :)
Happy simple sewing,
your Sabine
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