Sewing velour fabric - that's a challenge! But there are a few simple tips and tricks for truly beautiful sewing results. In my article on the subject, you'll learn everything you need to know about sewing with velour.
Velour fabric is so beautiful, wonderfully soft, and it makes colors look particularly vibrant - but oh dear! It is so difficult to sew!
The reason for this: the edges curl uncontrollably, the fabric distorts, and the seams become crooked and uneven.
But don't worry, together we'll get a handle on the problem. :)
What is velour fabric made of?
Velour is a velvety cotton-blend fabric, which makes it an ideal material for children's clothing, hats, hoodies, dresses, or loungewear. But cozy blankets, pillows, toys, and decorations can also be wonderfully conjured up from velour.
Its velvety structure also makes velour fabric an ideal companion for formal occasions. A black velour tunic or a flattering velour dress with boots will also look great when you're out and about!
Patterns for tunics, shirts, dresses, and much more can also be found in my shop, including in plus sizes.
The fabric is characterized by a soft, elastic backing that moves with you, but then returns to its original shape thanks to the knit structure.
So, velour fabric doesn't stretch out.
Velour consists of a blend of cotton and synthetic fibers, usually in a 90:10 ratio.
Should you wash velour fabric before sewing?
Definitely. Due to its high cotton content, velour fabric can shrink a little. To ensure the new garment still fits after the first wash, the fabric should definitely be pre-washed.
Velour fabric can be washed without any problems at 30 degrees Celsius on a gentle cycle.
How can you iron velour fabric?
The pile makes velour a bit sensitive to ironing. When ironing, you should make sure to iron on the lowest setting from the left side. If you want to play it safe, place a slightly dampened pressing cloth underneath.
Ironing from the right side could risk making the soft pile look greasy and permanently flattened.
What do I need to look out for when cutting velour fabric?
You should cut velour with sharp scissors or a really sharp rotary cutter* . If threads snag because the rotary cutter has nicks, you can ruin the fabric.
When cutting, you should stop as soon as you notice the fabric bunching up in front of the blade.
Smooth out the fabric, weigh down the pattern slightly with your hand or weights, and then continue cutting.
Which needle is the right one?
Velour fabric is elastic and should be sewn with a stretch needle*. This ensures the seams remain elastic and durable. The needle should be a size 80 - 90, because while velour fabric is soft, its double structure makes it somewhat thick. Especially where seams meet, four layers can sometimes come together.
So when in doubt, it's better to use a size 90 stretch needle.
Which sewing thread is the right one?
I sew velour exclusively with polyester thread.
For the sewing machine, I use all-purpose thread* from Gütermann. It usually matches my fabric selection best in terms of color. By the way, an insider tip is also the sewing thread from Troja*.
For overlock and coverstitch, I mainly use threads from Toldi* (also belongs to Gütermann), because they are not only very good (and tear-resistant) but also really affordable.
My sewing machine whisperer advised me to do this once when I complained that, with my volume of sewing, the good Madeira threads were getting quite expensive... ;)
Which stitch length is the right one?
The fabric is somewhat thicker due to the pile, so I recommend a stitch length of 3.5 to get beautiful seams.
If necessary, you should reduce the presser foot pressure slightly. It's worth trying out a few seams on a test piece here.
Which presser foot for velour fabric?
When sewing velour fabric with a sewing machine, you should equip it with a walking foot*. It ensures that the fabric layers are transported evenly.
With a standard zigzag foot, there is a risk that the fabric will bunch up in front of the needle, resulting in crooked and uneven seams.
In my article on sewing with elastic fabrics, I explain exactly why the walking foot is worth it if you often work with jersey, sweat fabric, and the like.
Sewing hems on velour fabric
Ideally, velour is hemmed with a coverstitch machine. However, hems with a twin needle also look very nice on velour fabric. But you should make sure that you get a twin needle for stretch fabrics*.
Here, too, it's worth trying on a test piece. Perhaps loosen the presser foot pressure or thread tension a little so that the bridge between the twin needles doesn't stand out too much.
For velour, I sew all hems with the coverstitch machine*, and I love doing it with contrasting colored threads.
Important: The start of the seam should be positioned directly in front of the needle. If it isn't, there is a risk that the fabric will shift.
In the picture, you can see the hem seam on the far right, above that a coverstitch seam stitched from the right, and on the left, the coverstitch seam sewn from the left. This is also well suited for giving seams a sporty character, for example for the shoulder seam on raglan sweaters.
Which stitch should I use to sew velour?
Elastic stitches are best, for example, a narrow zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch.
I sew velour fabric almost exclusively with an overlock machine because the seams are then nicely finished immediately.
In which direction should I cut velour fabric?
Opinions are divided here: Some say velour fabric should definitely be cut against the pile. Advantage: The color is richer, and small stains are less noticeable.
Disadvantage: When stroking over it, the fabric feels coarser and not as soft.
Others think velour fabric should be cut with the pile.
Advantage: The fabric is softer, looks more even, and feels nicer when worn.
Disadvantage: Small stains are immediately visible.
It's best to decide for yourself what is particularly important to you.
My store-bought velour sweaters are all cut AGAINST the nap. So when I wear such a piece and stroke in the direction of the hem, it feels rough.
That's why I also cut my self-sewn velour projects exclusively AGAINST the pile.
How do I know which direction the grain/pile of the velour is?
Quite simple: Stroke over it!
If the pile feels smooth, you are stroking in the direction of the grain.
If the pile feels rough, you are stroking against the grain.
Velour fabric curls: What to do?
There are several tricks to master this.
Finish the fabric edges with the overlock
Pin the fabric edges together with long sewing pins
You can "weave" the pins into the fabric, meaning: guide them up and down several times.
Iron seam tape onto the fabric edges
Seam tape most effectively prevents the fabric edges from curling. This way, the seams on the finished piece also look nice, clean, and tidy. You can easily iron such seam tape onto all edges of the pattern piece. I find the iron-on seam tape* from the traditional brand Goldzack (you know it from elastic bands!) to be recommended.
Seam tape is ironed onto the back of the fabric with light pressure.
This way, the edges lie nice and flat, and working with velour won't cost you so many nerves. ;)
Help, my velour fabric is distorting while sewing!
Don't worry, help is on the way!
Make sure to pin the two fabric layers together well with sufficiently long sewing pins. That is half the battle.
Here on the blog, you've seen more often that I like to work with sewing pins with grips*. They are very easy to grip, are medium-length, and are not quite as fine as my patchwork needles. So they don't bend as easily.
My overlock machine* is ideal for sewing with elastic fabrics.
For long, straight fabric edges, seam tape* is the method of choice.
Iron seam tape onto the fabric edges with light pressure before sewing.
Let the fabric cool down briefly - and then you can sew your pattern pieces. Lo and behold: beautiful, clean seams! This is what the seam looks like from the right:
No trace of ripples! :)
Off to velour sewing happiness! ;)
Where can I order velour fabric?
The quality of velour fabrics can vary greatly. I discovered my velour fabrics* at Hemmers and am super satisfied with the quality. What is particularly important to me: sometimes velour fabric is patchy and uneven after washing because the pile is pressed in different directions. That has never happened to me with the Hemmers velour.
Happy simple sewing,
your Sabine
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