Sewing a softshell jacket: Softshell jackets are perfect, especially for plus sizes. With the right pattern and a few tricks, sewing one is a breeze!
The most important things at a glance
- Softshell is a beautifully draping and relatively thin material; it doesn't add bulk and is very well-suited for plus sizes
- Softshell is a fantastic material and absolutely beginner-friendly! In this post, you'll find everything you need to know if you want to sew with softshell
- Thanks to the cozy fleece fabric on the inside, softshell keeps you nice and warm
- Softshell is water- and wind-resistant and has a certain amount of elasticity, so it conforms to the body's movements without restricting them
Sewing a softshell jacket: A breeze with these tricks.
Softshell jackets: Perfect for plus sizes?
Absolutely! And do you know why? Because softshell doesn't add bulk! It is a beautifully draping and relatively thin material. Because the inside is made of cozy fleece, softshell still keeps you nice and warm.
The fabric is also water- and wind-resistant and has a certain elasticity, allowing it to follow the body's movements without restricting you.
This also makes softshell a wonderful material for functional clothing. You can find more tips and information on working with softshell in my post Sewing softshell: Important tips & tricks.
My LOVIS pattern is, by the way, perfect for working with softshell! The paneled cut visually elongates and flatters your figure.
Ultimate tips for sewing a softshell jacket
With these tips, sewing your new softshell jacket will be a breeze!
Cutting out softshell
Be sure to cut softshell with a sharp rotary cutter. Even though softshell is a compact material, it can distort if your rotary cutter doesn't cut cleanly. It's best to change the blade before starting or sharpen it with a blade sharpener. I'll show you how to do that in this blog post.
It works best if you secure the fabric with the pattern piece laid out using your patchwork ruler.
Then you can guide the rotary cutter very accurately along the pattern.
By the way, electric scissors also work very well with softshell. You can learn more about that in my post All about scissors.
How to secure patterns to softshell?
Pins make holes in water-resistant softshell. Therefore, you should avoid pinning the pattern to the fabric.
If you don't want to go without pins, I recommend attaching the pattern with pins within the seam allowance. The seam allowance disappears into the jacket later, so it doesn't really make a difference if you've poked a pin through it. :)
A good alternative are pattern weights, which you can use to weigh down the pattern.
Pattern weights and electric scissors are, by the way, the professional, fast-cutting method. :)
Softshell seams are bulky? They don't have to be!
You have several options here.
My favorite method looks like this
Sew the pieces together with an overlock machine.
Then press the seam allowance to one side and topstitch it with a straight stitch or a twin needle.
This creates a flat and very distinct seam.
The second option
Finish the fabric edges of your pattern pieces with the overlock machine.
Sew the pieces together with a straight stitch.
Open the seam allowances, press them apart, and topstitch them from the right side.
Hemming a softshell jacket: This trick makes it easy!
Softshell can sometimes be a bit stubborn when it comes to getting a nice hem. With this trick, you'll manage it with ease!
Use a heat-erasable marker to mark the line where the hem should be folded.
Fold the hem double inwards up to the marking and secure it with fabric clips.
Now you can easily check while topstitching whether you are still on the right track with your hem. :)
After sewing, you can remove the marking with a hot hair dryer.
How to sew a softshell jacket with a patch pocket?
A very simple exercise - once you know how to do it!
Softshell* and Wondertape* are good friends. I use that for this method!
Mark on the jacket piece where the pocket should be placed.
Frame the marking in the width of your seam allowance. For the LOVIS jacket, that's one centimeter.
Apply two strips of Wondertape inside the pocket marking on the jacket piece.
Also mark the seam allowance all the way around on the pattern piece for the prepared pocket.
Stick the patch pocket onto the marking.
Now fold the seam allowance inwards along the marking and topstitch it with a twin needle.
When you reach a corner, lock your stitch.
Rotate the fabric and restart the seam at the corner.
Here is what the finished topstitched pocket looks like:
Now you can easily peel off the Wondertape.
How can I line the jacket?
The jacket is generally designed without a lining. The fit of the jacket is based on this. If you line it, the fit of the jacket may change.
Still want to know how it works? Then take a look at my guide Sewing the Lovis jacket with a lining.
How can I sew in a zipper without it rippling?
That can be really tricky, right? But it doesn't have to be if you follow a few simple rules. I show you what you need to look out for when sewing in a jacket zipper in my post Sewing a zipper without ripples.
Sewing thick seams with softshell - how does it work?
Even if you manage to get beautiful, flat seams on your softshell jacket with my tips: when several layers of fabric meet, it can get really uncomfortable for your sewing machine.
Here I recommend using the handwheel of your sewing machine.
That saves your needle AND your nerves. They are just a few stitches, after that you can comfortably continue sewing with the foot pedal.
Be sure to read my blog post Sewing over thick areas again.
Here I am wearing the LOVIS jacket in size 46 made from a beautiful softshell with a metallic print. Matching my new fall boots. :)
I really like buying the softshell fabrics* for my family and myself at Hemmers. I've also featured some of the new softshells in my newsletter because they are simply TOO beautiful! :)
Matching eBook: Sew "Lovis" from softshell
Do you like my tips on sewing softshell jackets?
Feel free to let me know what you think in the comments!
Happy simple sewing,
yours, Sabine
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