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Sewing a wall organizer: Perfect for fabric scraps

28.05.2022 by Sabine Schmidt

Wand-Utensilo nähen: Perfekt für Stoffreste

Sewing a wall organizer is fun, fast, and a breeze even for beginners. In my new tutorial, I’ll show you step-by-step how it works.

Got lots of fabric scraps? That’s fantastic for this sewing project, as it’s essentially made entirely from leftovers. A wall organizer can wonderfully replace a boring bulletin board while looking beautiful at the same time.

The tutorial for this great wall organizer was written for us by Simone from Nähcafe am Wasserturm. Maybe you already know her lovely fabric shop on Etsy*. If not, this is a great opportunity to take a cautious look! :)

Sewing a wall organizer

What is a wall organizer?

A wall organizer is a storage aid with pockets of various sizes. It can be sewn from fabrics, felt, or leather, for example. Additionally, sewn-in elastic bands allow for the handy storage of pens, glue, seam rippers, spools of thread, or scissors.

Why should I sew a wall organizer?

A wall organizer is a wonderful replacement for a bulletin board and can be sewn according to your individual wishes. You decide how big it is and what should find a place in it. Even the smallest fabric scraps will serve a purpose again. Because I'm sure you know the feeling: you just can't throw anything away, especially not scraps of your "favorite fabric," right?

Maybe you are already familiar with my tutorial on how to sew a cozy felt wall pocket?

If you are looking for a special "home" for your thread spools, you can also sew a thread spool hotel.

Can I sew a wall organizer as a beginner?

Definitely a clear YES! You only need straight stitches for this. And since you design it entirely yourself and decide what will go into it, even small mistakes are forgiven.

In this version, I’m skipping pockets with box pleats or pinch pleats.

A little aside: Pleats provide more internal volume – the pockets become "bulkier" and can hold more items.

What is a box or pinch pleat? These pleats serve multiple functions. They can be sewn into garments – simply because it looks nicer or to gain more freedom of movement. When you apply this technique to patch pockets, you get more internal volume. In this example, however, we are leaving the pleats out.

Which fabrics can I use to sew a wall organizer?

There are many types of fabric you can use to sew a wall organizer. Woven fabrics are best because they don’t distort as much as elastic fabrics like jersey.

It is important that you choose fabrics that suit you and your style and that you really love. Why? You’ll always have this wall organizer in sight. It should look good and match your decor, right? ;)

One more tip: Instead of a neutral base with colorful pockets, you can do the opposite. Why not use a chic patterned decorative fabric (these decorative fabrics here* from Simone’s shop are absolutely stunning!) and choose a solid-colored fabric for the pockets. Anything is possible, just give it a try.

Fabric and material recommendation for a wall organizer

  • Woven cotton*: For example, poplin; a true classic; especially suitable if you reinforce the back a little
  • Canvas*: My floral fabric is the wonderful Quitschvergnügt-Canvas*, which is exclusively available from Simone; canvas has a strong structure and usually doesn't need to be reinforced at all
  • Cotton batiste*: This fabric is firm but thin and feels a bit like silk. This firmly, tightly woven fabric can be well reinforced with interfacing for sturdiness
  • Linen/Linen blend*: has a beautiful structure that fits well with a farmhouse or Scandi style
  • Jacquard*: Elegant fabrics with a woven structure; for the base of my organizer, I used a remnant of the gorgeous jacquard by Merchant & Mills, which you might already know from my Kirsa quilted jacket.
  • Denim: very easy to combine; perfect for sturdy wall organizers
  • Corduroy/Fine cord:* as a sturdy back and for durable pockets; when cutting, keep in mind that corduroy should be sewn against the grain
  • Coated fabrics*: such as oilcloth, faux leather, or coated cotton; with oilcloth, you should ensure the description says "Dry Wax"; this ensures that the wax won't leave stains on your wallpaper...
  • Trimmings for decoration*: I used beautiful felt flowers, but you can also sew on buttons, use pins, or attach little felt animals; I find the combination of fabric and felt especially cozy (plus, I'm a big fan of Simone’s felt collection*)

How should I prepare the fabrics?

It is always good if the fabrics are pre-washed. However, for a wall organizer, it is not strictly necessary since it is not a garment that might not fit perfectly after the first wash due to shrinkage.

A hot press with an iron is enough. But if you want to be on the safe side that your fabrics won't discolor each other (!) after the first wash, pre-washed fabrics are naturally more sensible.

Can I sew an upcycled wall organizer from old clothes?

Yes, of course! You can sew a really great "memory wall organizer" from Dad’s shirts, Grandma’s aprons, or jeans from years gone by. This type of upcycling isn't just for patchwork quilts or pillowcases. You just need to consider what fabric these clothes are made of. As previously mentioned, woven fabrics are best for this. So try not to use fabric from a distorted jersey T-shirt. ;-)

What accessories do I need to sew a wall organizer?

You need the usual tools that you surely count as part of your equipment anyway.

What is the best way to cut the fabric for the wall organizer?

You can use your fabric scissors or a rotary cutter. It doesn't matter at all. It depends on which method you prefer. With a rotary cutter and patchwork ruler, cutting is really practical and great for fabric pieces that have straight edges. It’s faster and more precise. For this wall organizer, you need several squares or rectangles.

Tip: Read here about everything about rotary cutters

What do I need to know about interfacings?

There are several interfacings: thin, thick, voluminous, iron-on, or simply for heat protection. You can wonderfully reinforce your fabrics that are too thin for this project or make more elastic or slightly stretchy fabrics non-elastic.

Read more here about non-wovens, interfacings & Co

For the entire surface of my wall organizer, I ironed a somewhat thinner interfacing (H200) onto the back fabric. This is completely sufficient, as the front fabric is a bit thicker and even quilted. The patch pockets are not reinforced. They are mainly made of heavy canvas. This fabric is also firm and stable enough. So, you see, you can decide based on the type of fabric whether it should be made stable with an interfacing or not.

What does my sewing machine need to be able to do?

Your sewing machine must have a straight stitch and at least a zigzag stitch. If you have decorative stitches on your sewing machine, you can go wild on this project. I sewed on some patch pockets with a decorative stitch.

There is a stitch included that looks almost as if the fabric was sewn on by hand. ;-)

 

Can I sew a wall organizer with a serger?

Your serger can also be used for this project. In my sewing example, I finished the edges of the front of the wall organizer with the serger.

As a base fabric, I used a loosely woven jacquard fabric that frays slightly. In that case, serging is definitely a good idea. Even when sewing the front and back together, you can easily sew these seams with the serger. Only when sewing on the patch pockets will you need your home sewing machine again.

What measurements are best to use for a wall organizer?

"Be free and creative!"

You can determine the measurements entirely yourself. A free spot on the wall next to your desk, an elongated wall organizer for stationery, or a somewhat larger variant next to the sofa for magazines and TV guides, and much more – you decide and take the measurements!

When measuring, however, pay attention to the seam allowance and add approx. 1 cm to each side of the wall organizer.

How is the best way to start now?

Think about how big your new wall organizer should be and what will be stored in it later. Cut the front piece with a 1 cm seam allowance. Take the same measurement for the back and possibly interfacing to reinforce it.

Next, rummage through your fabric scraps for the patch pockets. For a patch pocket, you always need fabric for an outer and an inner side. You can, of course, also use the same fabric for inside and outside.

Picture tutorial: Sew a wall organizer

Conclusion

A wonderful project for sewing beginners with a drawer full of fabric scraps! A bulletin board couldn't be more beautiful.
(The word bulletin board not taken literally, of course. Because nothing is pinned here. ;-) )

Happy simple sewing

yours, Sabine

Sewing a wall organizer

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a sewing pattern to sew a wall organizer?

A hanging organizer can be sewn quite easily without a pattern. You can adapt the size of the fabric cuts to your individual needs. However, SewSimple also offers a free pattern for a felt wall pocket.

Where can I find a free tutorial for a wall organizer?

Here at SewSimple, you will find several free tutorials for wall organizers, wall pockets, and wall storage solutions. With them, you can whip up a practical organizational helper for your home in no time.

Can I sew a wall organizer out of felt?

Felt is perfect as a base for a wall organizer because it is sturdy and durable. You can easily replace the fabric back from my wall organizer tutorial with felt.

 

Links marked with * are affiliate links: If you make a purchase through them, we receive a small commission. The price remains the same for you.

Step-by-step instructions

Sew a wall organiser

Can't wait to get started either? Then you feel just like me! I can practically see the finished wall organiser in front of me! No wonder, I've been puzzling over the right fabric combination for days and I'm so happy to finally put my plans into action together with you. :)

  1. Step

    Arrange the fabric pieces for the patch pockets

    Get the cut outer fabric of the wall organiser ready.

    Now you can decide where you would like to place your patch pockets and how big they should be.

    Try a few things out. You can also lay the things you want to keep in them later (postcards, flyers or pens etc.) on the surface. This helps you see how big the patch pockets need to be, how far apart they need to be, what spacing you need to keep and so on.

    Be sure to include a seam allowance in the fabrics for your patch pockets.

    A seam allowance of 2 cm makes sense. That much? Yes, because you sew two fabric pieces right sides together and then there is also the topstitching seam to attach the patch pocket to the wall organiser. So the pocket keeps getting smaller. Better to add a little more than too little.

    Here you can see my design:

    Arrange the fabric pieces for the patch pockets
  2. Step

    Prepare the patch pockets

    Cut two fabric pieces of the same size, place them right sides together and sew them with a straight stitch all the way around. Leave a turning gap of about 5 cm. Remember to secure the thread at the turning gap. Then the fabric will not tear when you turn it.

    Remember to plan the turning gap at the bottom or on the sides of the patch pocket. Because when the pockets are topstitched on, it is closed automatically. If you left it on the top edge, this turning gap would have to be closed before topstitching with a seam. If you are using a patterned fabric, make sure the pattern is not upside down. So: the turning gap goes at the bottom! ;-)

    Now trim the seam allowance.

    Cut the corners off up to just before the seam. This way you can shape the corners well after turning and you will not get an unwanted curve or a thick lump.

    This is what it looks like now:

    Turn your sewn patch pocket right side out and work out the corners well with a narrow object.

    But not too pointy, otherwise you will poke through the corners. There is a special corner and edge shaper for this. It is a one-time purchase and a tool you will use again and again.

    Here you can see the patch pocket turned right side out:

    Prepare the patch pockets
  3. Step

    Topstitch the patch pockets

    Place your prepared patch pockets on the large piece of your wall organiser once more and arrange them the way you like.

    You can STILL move them back and forth and see what the spacing between the individual pockets should be or how much space you want to leave between the pieces.

    Pin the pockets in place with pins. That way they cannot slip while you topstitch them on.

    Now edgestitch the pockets in place.

    Set the straight stitch to stitch length 3.5. It simply looks nicer.

    And when you are really in the sewing flow, remember to leave the top edge open. A pocket without an opening would be pointless, right? ;-)

    This is what it looks like then:

    In my sewing example I used a glitter elastic. You can topstitch it onto one short side at the start. As you sew, you can form loops.

    Here is how: Form a loop and sew a straight seam parallel to the short side of the elastic. The size is up to you. These elastic loops are great for large or small pens. There are no limits to your imagination here.

    By the way: the felt flowers were glued on with fabric glue and later secured with a small seam in the centre. I also glued the felt ball onto this seam with fabric glue. It holds incredibly well, by the way!

    Topstitch the patch pockets
  4. Step

    Prepare the hanging loops

    Now work out the number of loops based on the width of your wall organiser.

    You can also decide on the size of the loops yourself. In my example, my loops are 2 cm wide in total. They should stick out of the fabric by about 3.5 cm. This means the total length of the loop piece should be double that measurement plus 2 cm seam allowance.

    If your loop width is to be 2 cm, for example, cut 4 times the width. That would be 8 cm. The length should be 9 cm. But, as already mentioned - you can decide on the size of these loops yourself. It also depends on what kind of holder (curtain rod, wooden dowel etc.) you want to pull through them. You will of course need to measure the width of this holder beforehand so that it fits through the loops.

    Why are the loops 4 times the width? Your loops should have some stability. And the easiest way to achieve this is to fold the 4-fold width in twice.

    The fabric then lies in 4 layers and only needs one seam along the side. So there is no need for fiddly turning of narrow strips. Reinforcement is not necessary either, as the fabric lies in several layers on top of itself.

    • Fold a strip in half lengthwise and press it. This creates the centre line.
    • Now fold one side towards the centre and press it.
    • Do the same with the other side.
    • Finally, fold it all together and press the piece.
    • Now one side is closed and the other side is edgestitched shut.

    You can see what this looks like here:

    Prepare the hanging loops
  5. Step

    Attach the loops to the wall organiser and sew the fabric pieces together

    Fold the loops in half and pin them to the top edge of the outer fabric.

    Don't pin them flush with the edge; instead, let them stick out 0.5 cm beyond the edge. This gives the whole hanger a little more stability. Wonder clips work best for this.

    Pins will do as well, but by now there are a lot of fabric layers, and clips hold them really well.

    Edgestitch the loops in place with a so-called basting seam. That way they can't slip when you sew the wall organiser pieces together in the next step.

    Next, place both large fabric pieces (front and back) right sides together and pin them with pins or wonder clips. Mark a turning gap of about 10 cm.

    Sew the fabric pieces together with a straight stitch and 1 cm seam allowance.

    Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

    Trim the corners diagonally with scissors.

    Be careful not to cut into the seam. Again, you do this so the corners don't get bulky and can be shaped more neatly after turning.

    Turn the wall organiser right side out through the turning gap and push out all the corners well.

    Then you can press it flat along the edges.

    Edgestitch all the way around the edge.

    Use a straight stitch length of 3.5. This also closes the turning gap automatically.

    Do you fancy a little decoration now?

    In my example you can see felt flowers attached with fabric glue. Notice something? You can really let your creativity run free here, just like on a blank canvas when a picture takes shape. Imagine you're an artist creating a wonderful mural! :)

    Et voilà!! You can hang up your wall organiser and fill it. Have fun with it!

    Attach the loops to the wall organiser and sew the fabric pieces together

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About the author

Sabine

I come from Siegen-Wittgenstein, where I spent my childhood breaking in cows, jumping off haystacks and scraping a D- in needlework class.

Today, being creative feels like indescribable happiness to me – and it grows even more when I can share it with others. Since 2016 I have been celebrating my passion for sewing on this blog, and I love that sewing connects so many people.