Sewing a handbag: Pattern hack with bag Trisch

Sew a handbag: Here is the tutorial and pattern for a beautiful little shoulder bag you can sew yourself!

The most important things at a glance

• With this tutorial, you can sew a beautiful handbag using the SewSimple TRISCH pattern
• You can download the pattern for the pattern hack for free in this post
• In this post, you will also learn everything about materials and variations
• Sewing level: Intermediate
• Sewing time: 1 afternoon

A practical handbag is perfect for everything you need on the go. The great thing about this little handbag is that it is based on our pattern for the TRISCH cosmetic bag. Therefore, some of the steps may look familiar to you. You might have even seen the pattern hack for the Trisch bag with bunny ears and a fish head?

But even if you have never sewn a Trisch, you will be able to whip up a Trisch(a) in no time. So, you can already look forward to your new, practical shoulder bag. This version of the Trisch has a handy slip pocket that closes with a magnetic snap, plus a flap to close the bag.

Perhaps you are already familiar with the incredibly beautiful bag creations by Renate alias @creativemadre on Instagram? Then it won’t surprise you that I was absolutely thrilled when Renate told me about her experiments with the SewSimple TRISCH pattern for the TRISCHA bag, right?

When I saw the first photos of Renate’s Trisch bags, I was sold. I needed a tutorial for it – and fast! And wonderfully, Renate insisted on writing this tutorial herself. A thousand thanks for that, dear Renate!

And because Renate got to choose the name, her handbag is called TRISCHA. 💕

YouTube Video: Sewing a Handbag

What do I need to sew a handbag?

Basically, you need all the materials that you should have on hand for other bag projects:

• Ruler^*
• Marking pen^*
• Sewing thread^*
• Tape measure^*
• Pins^*
• Fabric shears^*
• Thread snips^*
• Iron^* and pressing mat (feel free to read more about practical pressing aids)
• Fabric clips^*
• possibly Jeans needle, sizes 100 – 110^*
• Trick marker^*

Where can I get the handbag pattern?

And of course, you need the SewSimple pattern for the TRISCH bag. 🙂

In the eBook, you will find the basic instructions for sewing the cosmetic bag. You will need the pattern pieces that you can download for free here in this post for the pattern hack. For the handbag, you need the pattern in size MAXI.

Click here for the SewSimple TRISCH BAG pattern

Click here for the pattern hack supplement: TrischA Handbag

Which fabrics are suitable for sewing a handbag?

You can sew the handbag from any sturdy fabric you like. Is the fabric a bit fine? Reinforce it and use it anyway! There are no limits to your imagination here. By the way, the option of being able to use up fabric scraps for this bag is also wonderful. A mix of different materials, textures, patterns, and colors is ALWAYS an eye-catcher.

MY TIP: My favorite fabric for bags is the Heavy Washed Canvas from Mind the Maker.^* Apart from the fact that this fabric is produced in a socially and environmentally responsible way, it is above all: extremely sturdy and simply beautiful.

I particularly like that the fabric has a cool used look due to it being pre-washed.

Let’s take a look at what other fabrics are suitable and what you should watch out for when working with them.

Can you sew the handbag from faux leather or cork fabric?

Would you like to sew the handbag from non-wovens instead of woven fabric? That is: cork fabric, felt, or faux leather. Let's look at what needs to be considered when working with these individual materials.

The more layers of fabric that come together in a handbag like this, the more carefully you should look at your choice of materials. Do the fabrics stretch easily? Can a heavy-duty jeans needle handle the many layers? Are the seams stable and unobtrusive after turning?

Sewing a handbag from faux leather

Faux leather works very well for the TRISCHA bag. You don’t need to reinforce it beforehand because faux leather usually has enough structure on its own.

Very soft, fine faux leather can be reinforced beforehand. However, because you cannot bring faux leather into contact with iron heat, I recommend a fusible fleece/interfacing.

For thin faux leather, I use this fusible interfacing^*, which has a thin, needle-punched back. It feels a bit like felt and gives the bag a nice structure without making it too stiff.

Sewing a handbag from cork fabric

I touched on this above: it’s all about the quantity. But not only that. The thickness of the material can also contribute to your bag not turning out the way you dreamed.

If you want to use multiple layers of cork fabric for the handbag, it could have consequences:

• the corners can no longer be formed nicely
• the seams look bulky
• the bag does not maintain its intended shape

My tip: only accent individual parts of the bag with cork fabric. It goes without saying that cork fabric doesn't need to be additionally reinforced, right? 😉

Sewing a handbag from felt

What I wrote about cork fabric basically applies to felt as well. Felt is a great material from which you can sew water-repellent bags. Of course, you can also work individual parts of the bag from felt here too.

If you want to sew the handbag from felt, I recommend a thin bag felt with a maximum thickness of 2 millimeters.

Which interfacings and reinforcements are suitable for sewing a handbag?

If you use a sturdy bag canvas or faux leather, the outer fabric does not need to be reinforced. Patchwork fabrics or rather thin cotton woven fabrics should be reinforced beforehand. Vlieseline H250^* as well as Decovil light^* or firm bag interfacing are suitable as reinforcement.

When using thin fabrics, both the outer fabric and the lining should be reinforced.

A newly discovered and more than brilliant interfacing is this one: iron-on interfacing^* 320g. I think it is so great because it has a similar firmness to Thermolam, but is ironable and even a bit thinner. So, fantastic for sewing bags that should keep their shape without becoming bulky.

A nice alternative is this somewhat thinner, firm adhesive interfacing^*. It can be stuck directly onto the fabric and sewn. The intermediate step of ironing is then eliminated.

If you would like the interfacing as a brand-name product: Pellon Fusible Fleece^*. The classic from the USA. Not always easy to find here, but worth every cent. It is ironed on, giving the bag structure and just a tiny bit of fullness.

How large is the finished shoulder bag?

The handy size makes the bag the perfect companion for when you're on the go.

The finished bag measures (D/H/W) 8.5 x 22 x 28.5 cm

Sewing a handbag: Materials required

• Outer fabric: approx. 120 cm x 30 cm
• Lining fabric: approx. 140 cm x 30 cm
• approx. 25 cm continuous zipper tape^* 6.5 cm wide with 1 zipper pull
• Bag hardware set^* consisting of: 2 x D-rings, 2 x lobster clasps, 1 x strap slider
• 2 x magnetic snap buttons or 1 x magnetic snap button and another bag fastener
• Vlieseline H 630, S 320, Decovil light (see notes on interfacing)
• 1 x finished bag strap^*
• or 2–2.5 cm wide webbing^*, min. 1.6 m

Notes for beginners

Before we get started, there are a few little things you should know to ensure everything goes well. Renate has summarized them in a short list for you:

• Test square: Are the centimeter measurements correct?
• Grain line: The direction of the lengthwise threads in the fabric. It runs parallel to the selvage.
• Stitch length: Use a stitch length of 2.5. When topstitching the seam allowance, use 3 to 3.5.
• Topstitch close to the edge: Sew with a straight stitch parallel and close (2–3mm) along the edge. Always sew on the outer fabric.
• Seam allowance (SA): A 1-centimeter seam allowance is included in the pattern.
• Backstitching: Backstitch every seam at the beginning and end by sewing 3 stitches forward and backward.
• Fold: The fabric is folded parallel to the grain line and the halved pattern piece can be placed directly along the edge.
• Finishing seams: Cotton fabrics should be finished with a zigzag stitch.

Then we're ready to get started.

Instructions for sewing the handbag

We will sew the shoulder bag in small steps so you can keep track of everything. Don't worry, we'll guide you through it step-by-step, so nothing can go wrong. :)

1. Slip pocket
2. Bag flap
3. Outer bag
4. Inner bag
5. Connect bag and finish

Pattern pieces overview

These are the fabric cuts you need

• At the beginning, iron all interfacing onto your bag pieces.

Let's start with the slip pocket. This handy little pocket goes on the front of the handbag so that you always have important items within reach.

Sewing the slip pocket

• Take both pattern pieces for the slip pocket (outer part and inner part) and the pattern paper.
• Transfer the markings for the magnetic snap buttons to the back of the inner part (magnetic snap for slip pocket).
• Also, transfer the marking for the magnetic snap button to the back of the outer fabric (magnetic snap for the bag flap).

• Attach the magnetic snap button. Use the piece with the indentation here.

Do this as follows:
- Place the small disc of the magnetic snap on the marking.
- Trace the small slits on the right and left onto the fabric and the magnetic snap reinforcement (the small piece of leather to prevent the button from tearing out; you can also use a piece of interfacing or outer fabric here).
- Cut along the lines.
- Insert the prongs of the magnetic snap through your fabric from the outside.
- Place the reinforcement on the inside, followed by the metal disc.
- Fold the prongs outward afterwards.

• Place both parts of the slip pocket right sides together, matching the edges.
• Pin them together along the upper curved edge.

• Sew the curve using a straight stitch.
• Maintain a seam allowance of 1 centimeter.

• Turn the slip pocket right side out.
• Press the seam allowance and topstitch close to the edge.

• Take the pattern piece for the outer bag made of outer fabric, which is intended for the front, and the pattern paper.
• Transfer the marking for the magnetic snap button.

.

• Attach the magnetic snap button as described above.
• Use the counterpart to the magnetic snap of the inner slip pocket here.

• Place the prepared slip pocket, wrong sides facing up, flush against the outer bag piece.
• The magnetic snaps will meet and close.
• Sew the slip pocket to the outer piece along the sides and bottom within the seam allowance.
• The corners remain open.

The slip pocket is now prepared.

Sewing the bag flap

• Take the outer fabric, lining fabric, and the pattern paper for the bag flap.
• Transfer the marking for the magnetic snap button to the wrong side of the lining fabric.

• Attach the part of the magnetic snap with the indentation as described above.
• This is the counterpart to the outside of the slip pocket.

• Place the outer fabric and the inner fabric right sides together, aligning the edges.
• Sew both together with a 1 cm seam allowance.
• Leave the top edge open.

• Make small cuts into the curves, spaced about 1 cm apart, up to the seam.

Attention: Do not cut through the seam.

• Turn the bag flap right side out.
• Press the bag flap.
• Topstitch around the edge.

• Take the second outer piece and mark the center.
• Take the finished bag flap and mark its center.
• Place your bag flap right sides together, centered on your outer piece, and pin it in place.

• Sew the bag flap to the outer piece within the seam allowance.

Your bag flap is finished.

Sewing the outer bag

• Now take your two outer bag pieces.
• This is what they should look like now.

• Place both pieces right sides together, matching the edges, and pin them along the sides and the bottom.
• The slip pocket and bag flap should be tucked inside.
• Sew the sides and the bottom together using a straight stitch and a 1 cm seam allowance.
• The corners remain open.

• Now fold the corners so that the side and bottom seams meet.

• Sew the corners together with a straight stitch.

• Now cut 2 pieces of webbing, each about 7 cm long.
• Thread the D-ring on and fold the short edges of the loop together.
• Secure the short edges with a clip.

Tip: You can also make your strap loops out of the outer fabric. Use the pattern template included in the pattern hack. Fold the long sides toward the center twice and topstitch the long edges of the strap loop close to the edge with a straight stitch.

• Pin the strap loops centered onto the outer seam of the outer bag.
• Let the loop extend about 0.5 cm over the fabric edge.

• Sew the strap loops in place within the seam allowance using a straight stitch.

Your outer bag is now finished.

Sewing the inner bag

• Take one of the inner pieces and the pattern and transfer the markings for the zipper of the inner pocket onto the wrong side of the fabric.

• Turn the inner piece and measure about 3 cm from the top edge.
• Finish the edges of the inner pocket lining with a serger or zigzag stitch.
• Pin the lining for the inner pocket centered, right sides together, onto the inner piece.

• Sew the rectangle of the zipper marking using a short straight stitch.
• At the corners, leave the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, rotate the piece of fabric by 90 degrees, and continue sewing.
• Then, cut the rectangle down the center along the marking.
• Cut the corners diagonally.

Note: Do not cut into the seam.

Tip: The closer you are to the seam, the neater everything will press out afterward.

• Now push the inner lining through the sewn rectangle and press everything well.

• Take the zipper and place it into the rectangle with the puller facing the front side.
• Make sure the slider is visible from the front.
• Pin the zipper in place with pins.

TIP: Instead of pins, you can also use a marking pen or Wondertape here.

• Sew the zipper in place close to the edge using a straight stitch.
• It is best to use a zipper foot for this.
• Then, shorten the zipper.
• EXTRA TIP: To stabilize the zipper teeth, you can briefly heat them with the flame of a lighter.

READING TIP: Everything about sewing feet and their use

• Now place the lining together and pin it in place.
• Sew the lining together along the sides and top with a straight stitch.
• Make sure to sew ONLY the lining together.

• Now take both parts of your inner pocket and pin them together right sides facing, edges flush.

• Sew them together along the sides and the bottom with a straight stitch.

Note: Leave a turning opening of approx. 10 cm at the bottom.

• Place the corners with the seams flush against each other and sew them off with a straight stitch.
• Your inner pocket is now finished.

Joining and finishing the bag

• Insert the finished outer bag into the finished inner bag, right sides facing.
• The zippered inner compartment should lie on the side with the bag flap.
• Clip the two bags together at the top bag opening, ensuring they are flush.
• Make sure the side seams meet.

• Sew around the top bag opening with a straight stitch using a 1 cm seam allowance.

• Turn the bag through the turning opening and shape it well.

• Press the bag again and topstitch the bag opening close to the edge using a longer straight stitch.
• A stitch length of 3.5 to 4 millimeters is suitable here, for example.

• Pull out the inner lining and fold the seam allowances of the turning opening inward by 1 centimeter.
• Close it with a straight stitch close to the edge.

Sewing a carrying strap from webbing

• Take the remaining part of the webbing and pull it approx. 4-5 centimeters through the center bar of the ladder buckle.
• Fold the end of the webbing over by 1 cm if your strap tends to fray.
• Sew the webbing in place with a few straight stitches.

• Thread the webbing through the first D-ring,
• then through the ladder lock buckle again
• and then through the second D-ring.
• Sew the webbing in place with a few straight stitches as you did with the ladder lock buckle.
• Your bag now has a carrying strap, yippee!

Alternative: You can also buy a ready-made carrying strap and attach it to the D-rings with carabiners.

Finished!

Instructions: Sewing a slip pocket with piping

To add sophisticated (and very simple) accents to your Trischa bag, you can sew on some piping.

What you need for the bag with piping:

• Outer slip pocket piece and inner slip pocket piece
• 32 cm piping for the slip pocket

How it's done:

• Pin the piping to the outer piece of the slip pocket.
• Clip the curves on the piping every 1 cm or so, up to just before the piping seam. This makes it easier to lay the piping along the curves.
• Now sew the piping in place exactly along the piping seam.
• Tip: Choose a contrasting color for the bobbin thread so you can see the seam better later on.

• Place the lining right sides together on the outer piece. The piping is in between.
• Now sew 1 mm to the left of the inner fabric seam.
• Clip the seam allowance every 1 cm or so, up to just before the seam.
• Caution: Do not cut into the seam.

• Turn the slip pocket inside out.
• Press the seam allowance open.
• Topstitch the fabric edge close to the piping.

Now you can continue processing the pattern pieces as described above.

By the way, you can also decorate the bag flap with piping in the same way. You will need an additional 55 cm of piping for that. :)