Sewing a jacket: How great is it to be able to sew your own jackets and coats? Learn everything now about fabrics, closures, tips, and tricks to make sewing a jacket a perfect success.
The most important things at a glance
- In this post, you will find out why you should sew your own jacket
- For the different materials, there is usually a matching sewing pattern
- I’ll share a lot of tips and information about jacket fabrics and how to work with them
- Learn everything here about sewing patterns for softshell jackets, boiled wool jackets, quilted jackets, or zip-up jackets
- Find out about the special features of various jacket types
- You will also find tips here on the blog on how to sew a zipper into a jacket
- In this post, you will find patterns and videos for short jackets, quilted jackets, sweat jackets, cardigans, and softshell or boiled wool jackets
Can you sew a jacket?
Well, you not only can, you should! Hardly anything shapes our outfit as much as an expressive jacket. If it's self-sewn, that’s certainly a reason to celebrate sewing.
Because jackets that are perfectly tailored to our personal taste showcase our very own, unique style.
When you sew your own jacket, it is completely in your hands what material and color you choose. You determine which cut suits you best and can customize it precisely to your body measurements.
Perhaps you haven't noticed yet, but many people actually wear several sizes at once: I, for example, wear a size 44 on my upper body, a 46 at the hips, and a 48 from the hips down.
The cool thing about sewing is that you can adjust the patterns exactly to your measurements. This is especially easy when the sewing patterns are equipped with markings for hips, bust, or waist. Then you can draw the lines of the different sizes you need at these heights and connect them with a tailor's curve. You'll have a pattern that is truly tailored to you personally.
And you can practically tailor your new jacket to fit you like a glove. It doesn't get better than that!
Why should I sew my own jacket?
Quite simply: Because you know your style best and know what suits you! You might know this situation: When you are on the hunt for THAT jacket or THAT coat, you often find the right size in the wrong color. Or vice versa. In the rarest cases, everything actually fits: color, style, and fit.
When you sew your own jackets and coats, you can say goodbye to this problem: You decide on the color, style, size, fit, length, and cut. That's fantastic, isn't it?
And fortunately, there are great sewing instructions and patterns for every sewing level that make sewing a jacket child's play.
Can beginners sew their own jacket?
Of course! There are beautiful sewing patterns and instructions for every skill level, making jacket sewing fun and a perfect success even for beginners. My theory is: if you can sew a shirt, you can master a jacket. It might take a bit longer. And there are usually a few more pieces to sew, at least in most cases. But once you have understood the principle, there will be no stopping you, and you will be sewing the most beautiful jackets and coats yourself in the future, want to bet? :)
So don't be afraid of your first jacket. The most important thing is that you really enjoy sewing.
It's best to choose a fabric that is easy to work with. Below in this help article, you will find out which fabrics are suitable for beginners. Over time, you can try out different materials and see which fabric types suit you. And look good on you. :)
What do I need to know if I want to sew a jacket or a coat?
Short answer: It depends on the sewing pattern!
Long answer: Every pattern is worked differently. That's why it is important to read the instructions carefully. If the designer offers free patterns, you can practice with those beforehand to see if the style suits you. Some instructions are very detailed, others are more concise.
Of course, you should already be somewhat familiar with your sewing machine and have tried out different types of fabric. The more you have practiced beforehand, the easier sewing a jacket will be for you. Feel free to try out different stitch types on different types of fabric to get a feel for them.
Depending on the pattern, you should master the following sewing techniques:
- Sewing a straight stitch
- Sewing a zigzag stitch
- Sewing a topstitch
- Sewing a facing
- Sewing a zipper into a jacket
- Sewing a buttonhole
- Sewing a topstitch
- Sewing on bias tape
- Attaching snap buttons
Ultimately, the sewing instructions will tell you which steps are necessary to conjure up a great jacket.
Can I sew a jacket without a pattern?
If you are already a bit experienced, you can certainly draft a pattern from an old jacket. However, that is more for experienced sewing fans. Especially with jackets, the properties of the material play a major role and should be taken into account when it comes to cut and fit.
Also, the sequence of steps is not as easy to figure out with this approach. That's why it is advisable, especially for beginners, to start with a carefully drafted pattern with detailed instructions.
What do I need to know before I start sewing?
Actually, everything you need to know is in the sewing instructions. That's why it is so practical, even for beginners, to use a beginner-friendly pattern with detailed instructions.
It is best to read through the sewing instructions calmly in advance. If there is a sewing video for it: all the better. Many sewing fans cope better with a good video than with picture instructions. For others, it is the exact opposite. You can see what works better for you. Sometimes it is a combination of both.
What you should also consider before starting to sew:
- Take the instructions for printing the sewing pattern seriously
- Assemble the pattern correctly: all cutting lines should meet exactly
- Check if the test square on the pattern sheet is the right size
- Work as precisely as possible when tracing the pattern
- Determine the size based on the body measurement chart: Every designer works with their own measurement charts, which is why store sizes are not always the deciding factor
- Measure yourself accurately by placing the tape measure taut and horizontally over the strongest point of the body; get help if necessary
- If there is a finished garment measurement chart, use that too: It provides information about the dimensions of the finished garment. Compare it with a well-fitting piece from your wardrobe
- Follow the fabric recommendations: If you use a thin fabric even though the pattern is designed for a thick fabric, the finished jacket might be too large
- Wash and iron the fabric in advance (if it could shrink and is washable)
If problems arise with the sewing pattern, read my help post on frequent sewing pattern problems.
How do I decide on a jacket sewing pattern?
There are some criteria you should consider before you start sewing. But how do you find one? Let's look at it together, okay?
Sewing Level
Choose a sewing pattern that matches your skills. If you have only been sewing for a few weeks, you shouldn't necessarily start with a pattern featuring complicated flap pockets, collars with a stand, and dozens of zippers. It's best to choose a pattern where you are sure you can handle it. There can be a little room for improvement – it's great if you learn something new with every new sewing project. But it shouldn't be so complicated that you feel totally discouraged.
Most instructions come with a difficulty level. Look out for terms like "Level 1," "beginner," "easy," or a corresponding point scale.
Here, too, there can be big differences depending on the designer. Many instructions assume a certain level of knowledge. Here, it pays to trust an e-book maker whose instructions you get along with well.
Sewing Instructions
Choose a pattern that comes with a proper, structured set of sewing instructions. Especially if you are on "Team Beginner," it is important that every step is described in a comprehensible way.
Really great: if the sewing instructions even offer intermediate steps. This is often the case with SewSimple instructions. I always show how the sewn part has changed with the note "This is what it should look like now." This provides safety and self-confidence. :)
Suitable Fabrics
For the start, grab a fabric that is not too complicated to sew. Anything very thick, plush, super stretchy, or rubberized should wait a bit. Great alternatives, on the other hand, are lightweight coat fabrics that don't fray and are easy to work with. Denim or corduroy are also forgiving "first-timer" materials.
Fabrics and instructions should, of course, match each other. Logical, right? ;)
What does such a jacket pattern actually look like?
Imagine a jacket pattern similarly to a shirt or sweater with a split front and a bit of frills.
Small items like hoods, collars, pockets, or facings are always included. A pattern for a very classic zip-up jacket looks, for example, like my jacket Lovis:
From left to right: sleeves, hood side piece, hood center piece, front pieces, pocket, back pieces.
So you see: this is really doable. :)
Do you have to pre-wash fabrics for jackets and coats?
Not all fabrics from which you can sew jackets and coats need to be pre-washed. The purpose of pre-washing is usually to prevent the finished garment from shrinking during the first wash.
It would be a real shame, as sewing such a jacket is quite a bit of work. And if you have done it in vain because the beautiful fabric shrinks when washed, that is more than annoying, isn't it?
You should pre-wash the following fabrics:
- Denim
- Corduroy
- Woven cotton
- Boiled wool
- Loden (if washable)
- Sweat fabric
- Fleece
- Quilted fabric
- Teddy and plush fabrics
The following fabrics do not need to be pre-washed:
- Rain jacket fabric
- Softshell
- Oilskin/coated cotton
- Artificial leather
What fabric is used for jackets and coats?
- Quilted fabrics*: for blousons, coats, jackets
- Coat fabrics: for coats, capes, but also for short jackets
- Plush fabrics/Faux furs*: for coats, short jackets, blousons
- Boiled wool fabrics*: for jackets, coats, capes
- Woven cotton*: for crisp short jackets (e.g., with expressive prints), also suitable for coats if blended (risk of wrinkling!); cotton batiste is suitable, for example, for fine blouse-jackets
- Tencel*: for flowing, body-skimming coats and blazers
- Linen fabrics*: for summer coats and short jackets
- Denim fabrics*: for denim jackets, short jackets, but also for denim coats
- Corduroy*: great for blazers, coats, jackets, parkas
- Canvas*: for jackets and coats
- Coated cotton*: perfect for outdoor jackets, parkas, coats, or windbreakers
- Knit fabric*: for cardigans, knit coats, and knit jackets
- Bouclé*: for short jackets in the Chanel style, blazers, or short coats
- Rain jacket fabric*: rain jackets, windbreakers, parkas
- Softshell*: perfect for coats, jackets, and also children's jackets
- Sweat fabric*: for blousons, college jackets, sweat jackets
- Fleece*: great for cozy jackets, children's and baby jackets; it's best to choose the cotton version because it's simply more sustainable and of higher quality
What is the best sewing thread to use for sewing a jacket?
For sewing a jacket, a standard all-purpose sewing thread in the fabric color is sufficient. I can highly recommend the all-purpose thread from Gütermann*. It's best to pick a thread color that is 1–2 shades darker than the fabric, so the thread is practically invisible in the seam shadow.
Do you want it to be more eye-catching? Then why not try topstitching with a contrasting extra-strong sewing thread*! You can also use a normal sewing thread for the bobbin; that usually works best. If you use such a heavy-duty thread, don't forget to adjust the needle size to match the thread. A strong thread needs a strong needle.
A little tip: If the threaded needle slides slowly over the thread, it's perfect!
What is the best way to cut fabrics for jackets and coats?
There are several ways to cut your fabrics for coat and jacket projects. Here I will introduce you to the most recommended tools and aids.
Cutting fabrics with scissors
The classic, of course, is good old fabric scissors. However, these often have problems with particularly thick, firm fabrics. It can happen that scissors don't work cleanly if they are overwhelmed by the thickness of the fabric. A heavy-duty professional pair of scissors can help here. I guarantee: once you have them, you won't want to be without them.
Professional scissors don't just cut jacket and coat fabrics. You can also use them wonderfully for other types of fabric. I also really like using them for sweat fabric and French terry or faux leather, because some fabric scissors reach their limits with these materials too.
You can find such a particularly high-quality professional pair of scissors from the Japanese scissor company Kai, for example. And don't worry: you usually only buy such scissors once in a lifetime. So, it's a real investment that is worth the cost. You'll be thrilled, I promise.
Cutting fabrics with a rotary cutter
Another possibility is cutting fabric with a rotary cutter. Sure, medium-weight fabrics can be cut wonderfully with a sharp 28mm rotary cutter. Canvas, cotton, denim, or sweat fabric are totally unproblematic there.
By the way, if you are eyeing a new rotary cutter, make sure it is an Easy* from Prym. There you have no fumbling with screws where you might insert the blade incorrectly. With this really great rotary cutter version from Prym, you just need to pull a small lever back, and the blade is free so you can replace it. I find that really practical.
As soon as it gets thicker, you will notice that your rotary cutter starts pushing a wave of fabric in front of the blade. That is a sure sign that a larger blade is called for. I then reach for a 45mm rotary cutter*. I cut multiple thick layers of coat fabric with a 60mm rotary cutter.
And because corners cannot be handled cleanly with it (45mm and 60mm are quite large), I usually cut the fine details like collar corners or necklines with professional scissors. That is an unbeatable combo.
If you would like to know more about rotary cutters, feel free to check out my blog post on the topic Everything about rotary cutters: tests, tips, and death traps.
Cutting fabrics with electric scissors
Sounds crazy at first, but for many people who aren't that strong (myself included...), it's a great way to process thick fabrics. Such electric scissors really cut the thickest fabrics and many layers of fabric without much fuss. Well, a little practice is appropriate, and the corners aren't exactly easy with electric scissors either. I cut those with professional scissors as well. But especially when I'm cutting long pieces like Jacket Lovis or Quilted Jacket Kirsa, I am very glad when I can reach for the electric ones.
I bought the electric scissors from Skil* 3 years ago; that was one of the cheaper ones for about 30 euros. And it runs and runs and runs. Simply charge it occasionally and keep going. I think it's a great invention.
How can I seal the seams of my rain jacket?
A rain jacket is only really effective if no water can penetrate through the seams, right? Otherwise, you might as well not bother. Many sewing fans avoid sewing rain jackets for that reason alone because they don't know how it works.
Yet the solution is incredibly simple: There is seam sealing tape*. You can order this for a small amount of money in the appropriate size. Ironing it on is very easy:
- First, test on an inconspicuous spot or a scrap of fabric to see if the fabric can handle the ironing
- Stick the seam tape (available in various widths) onto the seam
- The seam is now sealed with the seam tape
- Set the iron to level 2–3
- Place the included silicone paper between the soleplate of the iron and the seam tape
- Iron the seam tape onto the fabric by pressing it lightly for 5–10 seconds (possibly a bit longer)
Sewing a children's jacket – how does that work?
For a child's jacket, you need everything you should have ready for an adult's jacket: fabric (though a bit less than for adults, the consumption table of the pattern will tell you about that), a fastener, sewing thread, sewing machine, and overlock. Naturally, a good sewing pattern with detailed sewing instructions is also important here.
How can I line a jacket?
Sewing a lining into a jacket is actually no rocket science at all. I am making a detailed step-by-step guide on how you can line a jacket available for free download here.
Free download guide: sewing a jacket with a lining
Which fabric is suitable for lining a jacket?
The instructions usually already recommend suitable fabrics with which your specific jacket project can be sewn well. In principle, however, you should ensure that the fabrics you use to line your jacket are rather fine and, in the best case, even a bit slippery. That ensures a smooth drape. And that, in turn, means that your self-sewn jacket doesn't "clump up," which it likes to do if you line jackets or coats with jersey or woven cotton, for example.
- Lining taffeta: The classic for lining garments. Lining taffeta is also called acetate (in case you don't find anything under the term lining taffeta, just try acetate). Acetate is a chemical fiber, very thin, very fine, very durable. You can process lining taffeta with a universal or a Microtex needle. Unfortunately, lining taffeta is one of the fabrics that makes hair static. :)
- Powermesh: Perfect for lining sportswear – but also great for sporty jackets. Powermesh is a mesh fabric that also consists of chemical fibers, mostly polyester and elastane in a 9:1 ratio. The mesh fabric is elastic in both directions, which means that the lining is also stretchable in all directions. You can process powermesh with a sewing machine (zigzag or overlock stitch of the sewing machine) and also with an overlock machine.
- Neva Viscon: Is a viscose lining fabric that works very similarly to lining taffeta in terms of processing. It is also very light, fine, and has a nice, smooth drape. It is significantly higher quality than lining taffeta because it is largely made from sustainable viscose. By the way, that also ensures that Neva Viscon is antistatic. So, no flyaway hair when taking off your coat... Neva Viscon is processed with a universal or Microtex needle.
- Flannel: Very classic for coats or duffle coats; however, for these garments, the sleeves and part of the back jacket lining are often supplemented with slippery lining fabrics so that the fabric doesn't bulk up in this area.
How can I sew a winter jacket myself?
A winter jacket is usually sewn from thicker fabrics. Often, the jacket or coat is additionally lined. A good way to make the whole thing even warmer and cozier is by sealing the seams. The aforementioned seam tape can not only be used against penetrating moisture but also against wind.
It is important that your chosen pattern can also be sewn or lined with thick fabrics.
Which material is suitable for a transitional jacket?
A transitional jacket is often that in-between thing. On one hand, it shouldn't be too warm; on the other hand, it should also be able to withstand a heavy April shower.
Often, softshell is the solution here. Softshell withstands a lot, keeps you nice and warm, and at the same time is rather moderate in terms of the thickness of the fabric. By the way, you can also refine a rather sporty softshell jacket with a pretty button placket.
Coated cotton is also excellently suited for transitional jackets, by the way. For some warmth, you can, for example, sew in an additional lining made of flannel fabric.
Tips for processing different jacket fabrics
Let's move on to the topic: How do you actually process which fabric? In this section, I will give you tips on what you should pay attention to when processing different jacket fabrics. Let's start!
Sewing a jacket out of quilted fabric
Quilted fabrics* are usually double-faced, which means they have two nice sides. They are perfect for processing with bias tape because the edges just need to be bound so that your sewing project looks beautiful from the outside and the inside. You get quilted fabrics in very different qualities and with the most diverse fleece inserts.
Depending on their thickness, quilted fabrics are sewn with a universal needle in size 80–90. Very thick, firm quilted fabrics can also be processed with a jeans needle.
A good example of a jacket made of quilted fabric is our Kirsa jacket, whose pockets are finished with bias tape and then topstitched, take a look:
You can also find detailed instructions with many tips on sewing a quilted jacket here on the blog.
YouTube Video: Sewing a quilted jacket
Sewing a jacket out of softshell
Softshell is actually a very uncomplicated material: It consists of several layers of material that are firmly connected to each other. The outside is waterproof coated; on the inside, there is usually soft fleece. Softshell jackets therefore do not have to be lined because the fabric itself keeps you warm and also looks good from the inside.
You can find all tips on the topic of sewing a softshell jacket in my detailed help article.
A very typical jacket made of softshell is, for example, my jacket Lovis:
YouTube Video: Sewing a softshell jacket
Sewing a jacket out of oilskin
Oilskin is a material that is incredibly easy to process. It consists of a cotton fabric that is available in different thicknesses. The coating consists of waxes that make the fabric wind and water repellent.
The coating prevents the fabric from fraying, which is a really good thing, especially for beginners. You can sew oilskin with normal 80 or 90 universal needles.
If you want to sew a jacket out of oilskin, make sure to get dry oilskin. Some of these wax fabrics give off wax and thereby create grease stains on the clothing you are wearing underneath – and unfortunately on all other materials they come into contact with, too. ;)
You can find more on the topic here: Sewing oilskin
Sewing a jacket out of boiled wool
Boiled wool (walk) is a dense knitted fabric made of wool, which is also wonderfully suitable for a transitional jacket. The wool makes it water repellent, but not truly waterproof or windproof.
Boiled wool can be processed very well with a sewing machine or overlock and is really uncomplicated.
Especially cool: Boiled wool is naturally a bit flexible, so boiled wool jackets always offer a good range of motion. Perfect, therefore, for hiking and walking clothing.
You can also find more on the topic of sewing a boiled wool jacket here on the blog.
Boiled wool jacket pattern
Would you like to sew a boiled wool jacket yourself? Here you can find the pattern for the boiled wool jacket Lovis:
How much fabric do you need for a jacket or a coat?
Usually, the instructions will already include a table that provides information on how much fabric is required for the pattern in your size. However, sometimes you might not have the table at hand (by the way, at SewSimple, you can find all tables on the shop page of the respective eBook, so you can check them even when you are currently out fabric hunting...).
For example, a consumption table looks like this:
| Fabric requirements Jacket Lou (all data in m) | |||||||||||||||||||
| Size | 32 | 34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 | 62 | 64 | 66 | 68 |
| on the fold | 1.6 | 1.6 | 1.6 | 1.6 | 1.6 | 1.8 | 1.9 | 2 | 2.1 | 2.1 | 2.2 | 2.2 | 2.3 | 2.3 | |||||
| open | 2.3 | 2.4 | 2.4 | 2.5 | 2.5 |
So, here is an example using a short jacket. With SewSimple patterns, you will often also find a note regarding open fabric cutting. This means that the fabric layers are not folded. This allows you to save quite a lot of fabric. However, it is important to remember that you have to place the pattern piece on the fabric mirrored. For example, for sleeves, place it once with the writing facing up and once facing down. It’s logical, right? Otherwise, the sleeves wouldn't be mirrored but identical. :)
Basically, you can remember the following rule of thumb for the fabric consumption of garments:
| Size 32 - 44 | 1 x the length of the pattern + sleeves + hood + pockets |
| Size 46 - 54 | 2 x the length of the pattern + sleeves + hood + pockets |
| Size 56 - 68 | 3 x the length of the pattern + sleeves + hood + pockets |
Of course, here too, especially in larger sizes, a lot of fabric can be saved by cutting the fabric open.
How can you cut the fabric for a jacket open?
This is what a cutting layout for a jacket looks like, for example. You can see that the pattern pieces are placed open on the fabric. This is most noticeable with the back piece, which is cut on the fold for smaller sizes.
This is a practical method to really save fabric (and thus hard cash).
What does my sewing machine need to be able to do to sew a jacket?
Basically, your sewing machine only needs two things to sew a jacket: straight stitch and zigzag. Or another overcast stitch. It is also always a cool thing if you don't own an overlocker: the overcasting stitch of your sewing machine. With it, you can create a kind of overlock seam with your sewing machine.
Equip your sewing machine with a needle that fits the project.
I recommend changing the needle after demanding projects, for example after sewing thick fabrics.
For particularly beautiful topstitching (they really look great) you can also use a topstitch needle*.
To maintain even distances, for example when topstitching the zipper, you can use an edge joining foot. Such a sewing foot is usually included in the infamous 32-sewing feet set* (which I have naturally acquired too!).
You can find everything about the different sewing feet in my detailed blog post on this topic. Feel free to click over there.
Which sewing machine needle should be used for which jacket fabric?
I already mentioned a few above, let's look at it again in a structured way. Of course, the same type of fabric can turn out very differently. You should always do a few test stitches beforehand to see if the seams look good, okay?
| Fabric type | Needle | Size |
| Softshell | Universal | 80 - 90 |
| Coat fabric | Universal | 80 - 90 |
| Plush fabrics/faux fur | Universal | 70 - 100 |
| Boiled wool | Universal | 80 - 90 |
| Cotton woven fabric | Universal | 70 - 80 |
| Tencel | Universal | 70 |
| Linen fabric | Universal | 70 - 80 |
| Denim fabric | Universal | 80 - 90 |
| Corduroy | Universal | 80 - 90 |
| Canvas | Universal | 80 - 90 |
| Coated cotton | Universal | 80 - 90 |
| Knit fabric | Jersey or stretch needle (ball point) |
70 - 90 |
| Bouclé | Universal | 70 - 90 |
| Rain jacket fabric | Universal or Microtex | 80 - 90 |
| Quilted fabrics | Universal or denim | 80 - 100 |
| Sweat fabric | Jersey needle | 70 - 90 |
| Fleece | Stretch or jersey needle | 80 - 90 |
| Faux leather | Leather or denim needle | 80 - 100 |
What accessories do I need to sew a jacket?
It really depends heavily on the specific style of your jacket. If you want a hood with a drawstring, you will of course also need a hoodie cord for it. If you want to sew a jacket with a zipper, a separating zipper is important. The same applies if your jacket is to have anorak press studs, for example.
So, definitely check the material list of your sewing pattern before you get started.
Basically, you need the following accessories for sewing jackets:
- Rotary cutter*
- Marking pen*
- Overlocker or sewing machine
- Sewing thread* (for topstitching, feel free to use a contrasting color!)
- Fabric shears*
- Pins*
- Iron and ironing board (feel free to read more about practical ironing aids)
- Fabric clips*
- Pinking shears*
Sewing a jacket: Which closure is suitable for which jacket?
Here too, the pattern decides: if you have a buttoned pattern, it is not so easy for a beginner to sew in a zipper instead of buttons.
So, if you want a jacket with buttons, you should get a corresponding pattern. This is in many cases easier than changing an existing pattern. But consider beforehand if you dare to sew a buttonhole. But don't worry, you can practice it. :)
Because often it's not just about a closure, usually other things are involved: for example, the finishing with a facing. I'll show you how to sew a facing here: Sewing a facing - how to make it simply perfect.
Basically, it is sensible to equip jackets that are meant to be wind- and water-repellent with a zipper. It simply seals tighter than a button placket.
But hook closures can also look classy on jackets and coats. You can sew them onto the front edge of the jacket instead of buttons. Suitable hook closures* are available, for example, from Prym.
Classic for boiled wool jackets are toggle buttons* made of leather or faux leather. They are sewn on with a straight stitch on the sewing machine or by hand. Usually, they are pre-perforated, so sewing them by hand is also very easy. You can see how such toggle buttons look in the example of the yellow boiled wool jacket above.
How can you sew a collar onto a jacket?
There are different collar shapes, just as there are different ways to finish a collar. I recommend closing the prepared collar at the lower edge with a basting stitch before you sew it (also with a basting stitch) to the neckline.
Usually, the collar is sewn on first, followed by the facing. This way, the collar is neatly finished and the collar seam is not visible.
Sewing a coat or jacket with a hood - how does that work?
You can find a detailed guide on how to sew a jacket with a hood in the Lovis pattern. Basically, a hood is inserted into the neckline just like a collar. A hood usually consists of 2–3 pattern pieces, which are sewn together before insertion.
Afterward, the seams are topstitched (optional) and, if necessary, a lining or a channel is sewn in. If the hood is to have eyelets, these are attached before turning/topstitching. Here it is definitely worth following the structure of the instructions.
Did you know that you can also sew eyelets? Often they are more comfortable to wear and more durable than metal eyelets.
Sewing a button placket onto a jacket
To sew a button placket onto a jacket, proceed as follows:
- Transfer the markings for the button placket to the right sides of the front pieces
- For women's patterns, the buttonholes are placed on the right and the buttons on the left
- For men's patterns, the buttons are on the right, the buttonholes on the left
- Insert the buttonhole foot of your sewing machine
- Place the button in the rear area of the buttonhole foot and fix it
- Sew a test buttonhole to check if the thread tension is good; if necessary, you can loosen it a bit
- Now you can sew the buttonholes one after the other onto the front piece
- To open the buttonhole, you need a seam ripper and a pin
- Stick the pin through the fabric just before the back end of the buttonhole
- Carefully open the buttonhole with the seam ripper
- Sew the buttons onto the opposite side
- Make sure that both front pieces finish flush with each other
My tip: Sometimes it makes sense to reinforce the jacket edge with fusible interfacing before sewing the buttonholes.
You can find more tips and tricks on the topic of sewing a buttonhole in my detailed guide.
Sewing a zipper into a jacket
Zippers can be sewn into a jacket in various ways. It is possible to neatly enclose them with a facing, or to cover them with a ribbon. There are a few tips and tricks around this topic, which you can check out in my help post Sewing in a zipper without ripples.
Sewing a sweat jacket yourself
Starting with a sweat jacket is a great idea, especially for beginners, because the fabric is easy to work with and is not excessively expensive. For practice (and because it is just so beautiful), you can also try out a closure-free jacket and slowly work your way up.
A pattern for such a sweat jacket without a closure is, for example, Sweat jacket Marla. It has a sewn-on hood. It looks refined and is very easy to sew.
YouTube video sewing a sweat coat
Sewing pattern sweat jacket
Here you can find the pattern for the sweat jacket Marla:
Sewing a knit jacket or cardigan
Sewing your own knit jackets and cardigans is a dream. At SewSimple, for example, you'll find a sewing pattern for the long jacket Calista, which is sewn with a facing. For fine fabrics, this is often a good choice simply because it gives you a clean hem finish.
Cardigan Sewing Pattern
Inspired to sew your own cardigan? Great! You can find the sewing pattern for the Calista cardigan here:
Bonus: 5 tips for hemming knit jackets
Hemming knit jackets can be a challenge, especially with coarse knit fabrics. With my tricks, you'll be on the safe side. I recommend testing which of the tips you'd like to/should implement on a scrap piece of fabric first to get the perfect result.
- Finish the fabric edge with the overlocker
- Manage the excess fabric while overlocking by setting the differential feed to 1.3 - 1.5 (more on this in the post Sewing with the overlocker - the best tips and tricks)
- Stabilize the fabric edge with iron-on seam tape
- Use a blind hem foot to sew a nice, inconspicuous hem
- Instead of "normal" overlock thread, use Woolly Nylon or soft textured thread; it often looks much better and blends well into the knit structure of the fabric
You can find more on the topic of sewing knit fabric in the follow-up blog post.
YouTube Video sewing a jacket
Conclusion
Would you have thought that you could easily sew great jackets even as a beginner? All you need is a beginner-friendly pattern and a fabric that is easy to work with.
For my part, I never wear store-bought jackets anymore, because I like my self-sewn jackets and coats muuuuch better. My current favorite jacket is jacket Lou, which I've conjured up to match every outfit in different colors and various fabrics. Here it is in a bold houndstooth version with vintage buttons from a flea market:
I hope this post has really inspired you to sew your own jackets.
Feel free to take a look around the SewSimple shop and find your new jacket project. By the way, many of my patterns are also available as paper sewing patterns.
If you like, tell me in the comments how you got on with the sewing. And how your new jacket turned out. I look forward to hearing from you. :)
Happy simple sewing,
yours, Sabine
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