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Sewing a bag with a base: Hiro project bag

01.09.2022 by Sabine Schmidt

Tasche mit Boden nähen: Projekttasche Hiro

Sewing a bag with a base: A fantastic idea if you want your bag to stand securely. In this tutorial, I will show you how it works with a free pattern for a practical project bag.

The most important things at a glance

  • In this post, Simone from the "Nähcafé am Wasserturm" shows you how to sew a practical and handy project bag
  • This project bag is sewn from woven fabric
  • The pattern for the bag is available exclusively for Nähpost subscribers
  • Sewing time: 60 min.
  • Sewing level: Beginner

What is a project bag?

A project bag is a great way to neatly store accessories for creative projects. Knitting supplies, painting materials, and embroidery tools all have their own designated place and can be conveniently transported whenever needed.

Perhaps you know the feeling: During sewing breaks, it is super relaxing to knit or crochet under the apple tree in the garden or to try out new creative techniques with friends. From now on, you can not only store your tools practically but also transport them in a beautiful way.

Because the "Hiro" project bag offers space for everything you need to be creative on the go. It is not too big, not too small, and has two sturdy handles that you can comfortably hang over your shoulder. The fact that Hiro is closed with a drawstring has a reason: threads and balls of yarn like to get tangled in zipper teeth. Anyone who has ever been driven to madness by this knows what I am talking about. ;)

With the Hiro bag, that won't happen to you. You can simply store your balls of yarn inside the bag and pull the thread through the nearly closed drawstring to avoid tangles. Nice, right?

The instructions and pattern for Hiro were developed by Simone from the "Nähcafé am Wasserturm" for SewSimple. In the instructions and video, Simone and I show you different sewing techniques for this free bag pattern. Both are very easy and lead to the same magical result. Feel free to try out what works best for you.

YouTube video: Sewing the Hiro project bag

Is sewing a project bag complicated?

Well, not at all. It is a bag with a drawstring and is divided into two parts. This refers to the division (two different fabrics). However, this is not strictly necessary. You can also sew it from one piece of fabric. You can make the straps yourself or use ready-made ones. Just however you like it best. It is therefore excellently suited as a beginner sewing project and really looks great.

Perhaps you have already sewn our "Quietschvergnügt" bag? Then you already have some practice in sewing bags and can let your creativity run wild with piping, etc. :) You can find the instructions for the "Quietschvergnügt" here: Sewing a shopping bag

Do I need to know specific things as a sewing beginner to sew a project bag?

For this project bag, you need basic knowledge. If you feel too unsure, I recommend my online sewing course. The SewSimple Sewing License is super suitable, and in 2.5 hours you will learn practical, basic knowledge about getting started with sewing.

You can learn more about sewing with sturdy fabrics in my post Sewing cotton fabric. You have an overview of how to work with woven fabric here. That can definitely help you in any case.
Sewing thick fabrics can also sometimes be a challenge. You can find out about this in the post Sewing with thick fabrics.

What should my sewing machine be able to do to sew a project bag?

If you have a normal household sewing machine, that is absolutely sufficient. If you want to use heavy fabrics to sew this bag, you should use a stronger sewing machine needle. For this particularly sturdy canvas, Sabine likes to use a strong jeans needle* in size 100.

READING TIP: Everything about sewing machine needles

Which stitches should my sewing machine have?

If you use thicker fabrics or reinforce thinner cotton with interfacing, finishing edges with a zigzag stitch is not necessary. The ironed-on interfacing prevents the fabric edges from fraying.

Since there is a lining fabric and no open edges, a straight stitch is completely sufficient. You can set the length of the straight stitch for normal seams to 2.5 to 3.0.

When topstitching from the outside, you can set it a little longer. It just looks better. You can set the length to 3.5 or even 4.0. Just try it out on a scrap piece of fabric after cutting. This way, you can also see if you like the thread color on your chosen fabric.

Which sewing foot for sewing a bag with a base?

You can use a completely normal straight-stitch or zigzag foot for this fabric bag with a base. If your fabric is particularly thick, you can also use a walking foot.

TIP: Read more here about sewing feet and their use.

How can I sew a bag with a base?

You won't believe how simple this project bag is. Perhaps you have already sewn a Kinchaku pouch (gift bag)? Great, then this project will be a "walk in the park" for you. But even if not, this bag will be very easy for you and will make sewing fun. So, you are sewing a bag with a drawstring and lining, which also gets handles.

Which fabrics are suitable for a project bag?

Such a project bag should be sewn from woven cotton. Choose a firm and thicker outer fabric. This gives the bag more structure. The inner fabric does not need to be as thick and can also be reinforced with interfacing. If you want to sew your handles yourself, a firm and thicker fabric is advisable. This makes the handles nice and stable. But remember to use the stronger sewing machine needle mentioned earlier.

Fabrics you can use to sew a bag with a base
Fabric Type Advantages Disadvantages Hints & Tips Source
Canvas Canvas is a fabric woven from strong yarns. Did you know that? "Canvas" is an English term and relates to the term "sailcloth". - makes the bag a bit firmer and heavier, it gets more structure.

- seam transitions and multiple layers of fabric are a bit more difficult to sew for the machine and for sewing beginners.		 - does not necessarily have to be reinforced with fleece

- a good and sharp pair of fabric scissors is very sensible

- sew with a jeans needle or 90-100 universal needle		 Order canvas*
Cotton Poplin Poplin is very finely ribbed, which you cannot see with the naked eye. It is a firm fabric and is made from fine yarns. The term poplin refers to the weaving technique and not to the type of yarn. In any case, poplin is an "all-rounder" and great for bag projects. - poplin should be reinforced for this sewing project (interfacing H200 or H250), otherwise the bag will be too thin - process with a 70-80 universal needle Order poplin*
Cotton Batiste fine and firm fabric that does not wrinkle easily - the back of the fabric should be reinforced, otherwise the bag will be too thin and will not hold the desired shape - process with a 70-90 universal needle Order cotton batiste*
Coated Cotton water-repellent, wipeable, robust - since this fabric has a coating, ironing is not possible. The sewing foot also has a harder time. There are special Teflon sewing feet. They glide well over coated fabrics and the stitch length is no longer influenced. - process with a 70-90 universal needle

- does not need to be reinforced		 Order coated cotton fabrics*
Linen/Linen-blend Linen is made from the natural fiber flax and looks very elegant. This fiber is considerably more robust than cotton and also more tear-resistant. The well-known wrinkled look is also popular - fabric edges fray faster

- fabric distorts more		 - reinforcing with interfacing reduces the fraying of fabric edges and prevents distortion

- process with a 70-90 universal needle		 Order linen*
Denim firm, strong and robust - multiple layers of denim are harder to sew

 - process with heavy, sharp scissors

- sew with a jeans needle or 90-100 universal needle

- denim thread for topstitching is an advantage
- does not necessarily have to be reinforced		 Order denim
fabrics*
Fine Cord/Corduroy velvety ribs and surface, robust fabric - grain direction (parallel to the selvage) should be observed when cutting: the "nap" must feel rough downwards - process with 80-90 universal needle Order corduroy fabric*

Where can I find the sewing kits for the bag?

Simone has put together wonderful sewing kits for the bag. Use the links to go directly to her online shop.

Sewing kit "Bon Voyage FLAX": Kept in shades of yellow and gold with fine contrasts in blue, sage, and orange.

Sewing kit "Bon Voyage FLAX"

Kept in shades of yellow and gold with fine contrasts in blue, sage, and orange.

This kit contains the following items:

  • 0.25 m Heavy Canvas from mind the MAKER MUSTARD
    100% cotton (woven fabric)
    Weight: 475 g/m2
    Fabric width: 1.45 m
  • 0.35 m Poppy stripes
    100% cotton
  • 0.25 m Canvas from Cotton + Steel metallic Bon Voyage Meadow Flax Multi
    Linen 55% Cotton 45%
    Width: 1.12 m
    Weight: 213 g/m2

Sewing kit "Bon Voyage Black"

In shades of blue and orange with strong contrast in black, golden yellow, and sage.

This kit contains the following items:

  • 0.25 m Heavy Canvas from mind the MAKER BURN BRONZE
    100% cotton (woven fabric)
    Weight: 475 g/m2
    Fabric width: 1.45 m
  • 0.35 m Westfalenstoff Kitzbühel dots
    100% cotton
    Oeko-Tex Standard 100
  • 0.25 m Canvas from Cotton + Steel metallic Bon Voyage Meadow Black
    Linen 55% Cotton 45%
    Width: 1.12 m
    Weight: 213 g/m2

Sewing kit Tonga Spice

Aqua tones meet spicy red-orange and soft olive nuances.

This kit contains the following items:

  • 0.25 m heavy canvas by mind the MAKER BROWN KHAKI
    100% cotton (woven fabric)
    Weight: 475 g/m2
    Fabric width: 1.45 m
  • 0.35 m Westfalenstoff Singapore stripes
    100% cotton
    Oeko-Tex Standard 100
  • 0.25 m decorative fabric Tonga Spice
    100% cotton
    Oeko-Tex Standard 100
    Weight: 214 g/m2

Sewing kit Tonga Jewel

Fine red and berry tones meet olive and teal.
This kit contains the following items:

  • 0.25 m heavy canvas by mind the MAKER PEWTER
    100% cotton (woven fabric)
    Weight: 475 g/m2
    Fabric width: 1.45 m
  • 0.35 m Westfalenstoff Torino stripes
    100% cotton
    Oeko-Tex Standard 100
  • 0.25 m decorative fabric Tonga Jewel
    100% cotton
    Oeko-Tex Standard 100
    Weight: 214 g/m2

Do the fabrics need to be pre-treated?

Before you cut, you should wash the fabrics. All fabrics shrink to a greater or lesser extent after the first wash. There are exceptions, of course. Pre-washed fabrics naturally don't need to be washed again. This is described when purchasing the fabrics. You will notice the terms “washed” or “pre-washed”. For impatient sewists, this is, of course, ideal.

If you want to wash linen, here is my tip: Finish the edges with a zigzag stitch or your overlock. Because then it won't happen that you have to “operate” a tightly knotted ball of linen out of your washing machine because the frayed threads have wrapped themselves around the piece of fabric. Linen frays much faster. 😜

Fabric requirements for the project bag Hiro

Material type Required amount
Outer fabric and handles (from 110 cm fabric width) 40 cm
Inner fabric (from 110 cm fabric width) 40 cm
Vlieseline H200 (100 cm fabric width) 40 cm
Cord, e.g., macramé cord, thickness to taste 140 cm

How big is the finished project bag?

Project bag Hiro is handy and slightly larger than an average handbag.

  • Width: 26 cm
  • Depth: 12 cm
  • Height (without handles): 25 cm

Project bag Hiro pattern for free

  • You can download the pattern for the Hiro project bag for free in our Freebook section.
  • Passing on the Hiro pattern is prohibited, as is commercial use.
  • Print the pattern at 100% without page scaling. Your printer should be set to “Print document and all markups” so that
  • the labels can also be transferred to the pattern pieces.
  • The 1 cm seam allowance is included in the pattern.

Download project bag Hiro pattern

How to get the free pattern

  • Create a customer account (top right)
  • Log in to your customer account
  • Click on "Download project bag Hiro pattern" here in the article
  • or: Go directly to the freebook page in your customer account:
  • Then you will go directly to our exclusive freebook area with over 100 patterns
  • click on "Freebooks" and select the correct category:
  • click on "Bags" and choose the desired instructions
  • Click on "Download" in the marked field
  • The PDF bag pattern will download automatically
  • Check your download folder. You will find it there:
  • Have fun sewing! :)
  • Please understand that I cannot send the pattern individually by email. Unfortunately, I cannot answer requests for this. It is all the more important that you follow the instructions above for downloading the pattern correctly.
  • IMPORTANT: The same address must be stored for the newsletter subscription and the customer account!
  • If the freebook area is not displayed on your mobile device, it helps to access the site on a PC. You can also swipe left in the mobile view and you will then see the download link. :)

Sewing a project bag: Necessary accessories for Hiro

Accessories for sewing a project bag

Now your creative chaos has a home... ;)

Conclusion: These project bags create order and look decorative too. And by the way: It's not forbidden to use them for other things. :) Sabine likes to use my Hiro bag as a book bag.

We hope you have fun sewing and would love to hear a nice comment from you. If you tag Simone and me on Instagram, we can admire your #projekttaschehiro. That would be really cool, right?

Happy simple sewing, Sabine & Simone

Sewing a project bag
Sewing a project bag

Links marked with * are affiliate links: If you make a purchase through them, we receive a small commission. The price remains the same for you.

Step-by-step instructions

tasche-mit-boden-naehen

Sew the Hiro project bag

In this tutorial, Simone from Nähcafé am Wasserturm shows you how to sew the Hiro project bag with a drawstring casing, handles and lining. Beginner level, sewing time approx. 60 min.

  1. Step

    Cut the fabric

    Depending on its thickness, reinforce the lining fabric with Vlieseline (H200 or H250). Place the pattern pieces on the fabric along the grainline. Cut the fabrics on the fold so that they are symmetrical.

    For the lining you need the taped-together pattern. Cut the lining without seam allowance.

    For the outer pieces, divide the pattern. When cutting, add 1 cm seam allowance at the dividing edge.

    Cut the fabric
  2. Step

    Prepare the fabric pieces

    You need these fabric pieces:

    • 2 x outer fabric, piece 1 (bottom)
    • 2 x outer fabric, piece 2 (upper part)
    • 2 x lining fabric
    • 2 x 70 cm cord
    • 2 x handles
    • 2 x drawstring casing

    The 1 cm seam allowance is included in the pattern.

  3. Step

    Prepare the drawstring casing

    • Press the short sides of the casing pieces over 2 x 1 cm towards the wrong side of the fabric.
    • Sew them down with a straight stitch.
    Prepare the drawstring casing
  4. Step

    Fold the drawstring casings

    • Fold the long sides of the casings wrong sides together and press them.
    Fold the drawstring casings
  5. Step

    Prepare the outside

    • Now prepare the outside of the project bag.
    • It is divided into two different fabrics.
    • Place the lower edge of fabric piece 2 right sides together on the upper edge of fabric piece 1.
    • Secure these fabrics with pins or wonder clips.
    Prepare the outside
  6. Step

    Sew the outer pieces together

    • Sew the two fabric pieces together with a straight stitch.
    • Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

    Press the seam allowances to one side and topstitch them from the right side of the fabric with a slightly longer stitch length (3.5 mm).

    Sew the outer pieces together
  7. Step

    Prepare the bag handles

    Why are the handle pieces four times as wide? Your handmade straps should be sturdy, thanks to folding them in twice. The fabric lies in four layers and you only need one seam along the sides.

    • Fold a fabric strip in half lengthwise and press it well.
    • Fold one side towards the centre and press it.
    • Do the same with the other side.
    • Fold it all together and press the fabric strip.
    Prepare the bag handles
  8. Step

    Topstitch the handles

    • One side is now closed, the other is edgestitched shut.
    • You can also topstitch the other side for looks.
    Topstitch the handles
  9. Step

    Attach the handles

    • Transfer the ‘handle placement’ marking from pattern piece 2 to the upper fabric piece, on the left and right.
    • Now pin the open edge of a handle to the upper edge at the marking.
    • Repeat on the other side. Make sure the handles are not twisted.
    • Pin them a few millimetres beyond the edge, which gives more stability.
    • It is best to secure them with wonder clips.
    Attach the handles
  10. Step

    Secure the handles with a basting seam

    • Sew the handles in place close to the edge with a basting seam.
    • That way they won't shift when you sew the bag pieces and the casing together.
    • You don't need to backstitch this seam, it is only there to hold things in place.
    Secure the handles with a basting seam
  11. Step

    Secure the drawstring casings

    • Place the prepared casings centred, with the open edge on the upper edge of the outer piece, and secure them.
    • Tip for beginners: Also sew these on close to the edge with a basting seam so the casing doesn't shift.
    Secure the drawstring casings
  12. Step

    Join the outer pieces

    • Place both bag pieces right sides together and secure them with pins or wonder clips.
    • Make sure the dividing seams line up.
    Join the outer pieces
  13. Step

    Sew the sides and bottom

    • Sew the sides and the bottom (lower edge) together with a straight stitch.
    • Backstitch at the beginning and end. Leave out the corners and the upper edge.
    Sew the sides and bottom
  14. Step

    Box the bottom corners

    • Fold the open corners flat the other way. Reach into the opening with both index fingers and pull it a little taut.
    • The two side seams meet. Secure with pins or wonder clips.
    • With thicker fabrics, clips are more helpful.
    • Sew a straight seam and backstitch at the beginning and end. This creates the depth of the bag bottom.
    Box the bottom corners
  15. Step

    Cut and prepare the lining

    • The outer bag is ready, now you sew the lining.
    • You do almost exactly the same, except that there is no casing, handle or dividing seam.
    • Place both lining pieces (reinforced with Vlieseline) right sides together.
    Cut and prepare the lining
  16. Step

    Mark the turning gap

    • Secure with clips or pins.
    • On one side, mark a turning gap of approx. 7 - 8 cm with chalk or a marker pen.
    • This section must stay open so that you can turn the bag later.
    Mark the turning gap
  17. Step

    Sew the lining together

    • Sew the sides and lower edge together with a straight stitch.
    • Backstitch at the beginning and end.
    • Leave out the turning gap. Backstitch before and after the turning gap, otherwise it will tear open when you turn the bag.
    Sew the lining together
  18. Step

    Bottom corners of the lining

    • Fold the open corners flat the other way.
    • Secure with wonder clips or pins.
    • As with the outer bag, sew a straight seam and backstitch at the beginning and end.
    Bottom corners of the lining
  19. Step

    Trim the seam allowances

    • Trim the seam allowances with fabric scissors.
    • That way no thick bulge forms when you turn it.
    • You can do the same with the outer bag.
    Trim the seam allowances
  20. Step

    Join the bag pieces

    • Place one bag piece inside the other.
    • The fabrics of the outer bag and the inner bag are right sides together.
    • Make sure the side seams line up.
    • Secure the upper fabric edge with wonder clips or pins.
    Join the bag pieces
  21. Step

    Sew the upper edge together

    • Sew everything together all the way round with a straight stitch.
    • Backstitch at the beginning and end.
    Sew the upper edge together
  22. Step

    Turn the bag

    • Turn the whole bag right side out through the turning gap.
    • This is a bit harder with firm, thick fabrics.
    • With patience and well-secured seams you'll manage it.
    Turn the bag
  23. Step

    Shape the bottom corners

    • Reach through the turning gap and push out the corners of the bottom.
    • Use your fingers or a point turner.
    Shape the bottom corners
  24. Step

    Close the turning gap

    • Fold the seam allowance inwards and secure with pins or wonder clips.
    • Give it a quick press with the iron.
    • Edgestitch the turning gap closed and backstitch at the beginning and end.
    • Press the bag well so that it gets its final shape.
    Close the turning gap
  25. Step

    Thread the cord

    • All that's missing now is the cord.
    • Divide the cord into two pieces and thread them through the casing in opposite directions.
    • A bodkin is helpful.

    Done! Now your creative chaos has a home.

    Thread the cord

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About the author

Sabine

I come from Siegen-Wittgenstein, where I spent my childhood breaking in cows, jumping off haystacks and scraping a D- in needlework class.

Today, being creative feels like indescribable happiness to me – and it grows even more when I can share it with others. Since 2016 I have been celebrating my passion for sewing on this blog, and I love that sewing connects so many people.