Foundation Paper Piecing Tutorial: Sewing with FPP is fun, quick, and ensures brilliant results even for inexperienced sewing fans. Start now and be amazed!
The most important facts at a glance
- Foundation Paper Piecing is a patchwork method where you sew on paper
- The templates for the Flying Geese help you achieve a perfect sewing result
- You can download the free FPP template in this post, print it out, and get started right away
- And of course, we’ll tell you everything about the materials used, where to get them, and how to use them
- In this basic tutorial, we will sew a magical sewing case
- ✂️ Sewing level: some sewing experience
- ⏰ Sewing time: 1 afternoon
YouTube Sewing Tutorial: Sewing a sewing case with Foundation Paper Piecing
What is Foundation Paper Piecing?
Foundation Paper Piecing is a patchwork method where fabric is sewn onto a printed paper template. The paper is removed later, leaving behind a very clean sewing result.
How does FPP work?
The advantage of Foundation Paper Piecing is that even complicated patterns can be sewn very precisely, as the motif is divided into smaller, straight geometric shapes. There are no curves. Because of this, a template can be replicated exactly.
Once you have understood the principle, it is relatively easy to achieve great results. Furthermore, this technique is wonderful for using up small fabric scraps.
What should you keep in mind with Foundation Paper Piecing?
Before you get started, you should keep a few basic things in mind: in FPP, the stitch length is crucial. Among other things, this is because the seam ends will hold better.
- Stitch length: A short stitch length ensures that the paper is properly perforated and can be torn off easily
- Cutting: The pieces of fabric must be placed correctly and be large enough
- Mindset: The FPP piece will be mirrored afterwards
Which needle should you use for FPP?
For Foundation Paper Piecing, use an 80s universal needle*. Since you are sewing through paper, you should discard it afterwards: contact with paper makes the needle blunt quickly. A super universal needle* is also perfect for FPP.
Which fabrics are suitable for FPP?
Cotton fabrics are best for beginners. Perhaps even those that can be used from both sides.
Since you are sewing on paper and the seams cannot distort, it is also suitable for otherwise difficult-to-handle fabrics that you might not normally use in patchwork, such as jersey, silk, linen, viscose... The fabrics in our sewing example come from Simone (Nähcafé am Wasserturm). You can get them here:
Which thread is suitable for Foundation Paper Piecing?
Simple cotton or polyester sewing machine thread. Even the color doesn't play a special role since the seams are pressed to one side. I usually use a neutral cream-colored thread.
Which paper for FPP?
There are two ways to do Foundation Paper Piecing. Either you use American freezer paper; the pattern is printed or drawn onto this. Then the fabric can be ironed onto the paper, the advantage being that nothing slips. With this variant, the paper is folded and then sewn next to the folded seam. Thus, the template can be used more often.
In the second variant, which I use here, very thin printer paper (50g) is used. The pattern is printed on it and sewn through with a very short stitch length. The paper is torn away afterwards.
What accessories for FPP?
The good news is: you don't need much in the way of accessories to start FPP.
However: when cutting, an Add-a-Quarter ruler* is quite useful. You can use it to straighten the edges. However, a simple patchwork ruler* is also sufficient if you don't want to buy a special ruler.
Which projects are suitable for FPP?
In short: all motifs where precision is involved. Whenever you need a chic eye-catcher for your projects, FPP is a brilliant thing. Here are a few sewing ideas where you could use FPP:
- Sew a book cover
- Sew potholders
- Sew a mug rug
- Sew a cosmetic bag
- Sew a shopping bag
- Sew a binder cover
How important is ironing for FPP?
Of course, it's always good to have an iron and a suitable ironing surface within reach when sewing. However, ironing is not strictly necessary for FPP; you can also smooth the seams with a seam roller or use finger pressing.
With finger pressing, the seam is shaped by applying pressure with your fingertips.
Can you create your own FPP templates?
Of course, all you need for that is a sheet of paper, a ruler, and a fineliner. With that, you can draw your own FPP templates, scan them, and then print them out again and again.
Where can you get FPP templates for free?
Well, from us! The "Flying Geese" can be used for many sewing ideas, for example for bags, placemats, mug rugs, bibs, and much more.
The free FPP template for the "Flying Geese" was created for us by our colleague Dorthe Niemann (you might already know her from our German-German podcast episode).
Which stitch length for Foundation Paper Piecing?
For Foundation Paper Piecing, use a very short stitch length of 1.0–2.0 mm so that the paper is easier to tear off later.
Foundation Paper Piecing Tutorial
Are you ready to take your sewing skills to the next level and have fun doing it? Then you've come to the right place! Today, I will show you step-by-step how to sew a beautiful Foundation Paper Piecing (FPP) sewing case. Don't worry, even if you are new to FPP, I will guide you through the process and ensure that you can be proud of your work in the end. So, let's get started and get creative together!
1. Prepare materials
Before we begin, let's make sure we have everything we need close at hand. Here is a list of the materials you will need:
- Fabric scraps 5 cm wide in your favorite colors
- The free template for the sewing case (you can find the link at the end of this post)
- Patchwork ruler*
- Sewing thread*
- Pins*
- Fabric scissors*
- Thread snips*
- Iron* and ironing surface
- if necessary, seam roller*
- suitable sewing machine needle*
- Cutting mat, rotary cutter* and ruler (e.g., Add-a-Quarter ruler*)
- Foundation Paper Piecing paper (50g printer paper)
- Magic Water Pen* (if the paper is hard to tear off)
- if necessary, tracing wheel*
- Sewing machine
Additional materials for the sewing case:
for the outside:
- 3 pieces of fabric* measuring 8 x 19 cm
- two magnets, alternatively ribbons for closing
for the inside:
- Inner lining: a fabric square* (19 x 36 cm) and a piece of cotton batting* (19 x 36 cm).
- Inner pocket: 2 squares measuring 13 x 19 cm and a 4 x 19 cm strip for finishing.
- Batting and fabric scraps for the pincushion, the scissor pocket, and the magnetic needle holder
- 1 button and a thin rubber band, shoelace, cord, or similar approx. 40 cm
- 1 magnet* or magnetic snap*
2. Download and prepare the free template
Download the free template for the sewing case and print it out on paper. Don't forget to set your printer settings to "actual size" or "100%" to ensure the size is correct. Cut out the template.
3. Cut fabric
Place your fabric scraps on the cutting mat and use the rotary cutter and ruler to cut them into 5 cm wide strips. You can also use fabric scraps of the appropriate size.
4. Start with Foundation Paper Piecing
Step 1:
Pre-fold your roughly cut-out paper template well along all seam lines.
TIP: You can also pre-score the lines with a tracing wheel*; this makes the paper even easier to fold and very easy to tear off after sewing.
Step 2:
Now it is time to start with the Foundation Paper Piecing.
Place a piece of fabric with the wrong side against the back of the paper template, with a seam allowance over the first triangle A1.
Make sure the fabric is large enough to cover the entire shape A1.
Step 3:
Now place the 2nd piece of fabric right sides together over the first...
Step 4:
...and pin it in place.
When folded over, the second piece of fabric should completely cover area A2.
Step 5:
Now turn the paper template over and sew the first seam on line A1 with a stitch length of 1.0 - 2.0 mm.
Backstitch at the beginning and the end of the seam.
Step 6:
Turn the FPP piece over and fold the seam open.
You can press the seam flat with your fingers or use a small seam roller.
There is nothing wrong with using an iron, either. However, do not use steam.
Step 7:
This is how it should look from the front side now.
Step 8:
Next, fold the paper along line A2.
Step 9:
The excess fabric can now be trimmed by 1/4 inch using a rotary cutter. An Add-A-Quarter ruler* is very suitable for this, as it has a lip that catches on the paper.
You can also use a standard patchwork ruler with cm markings and trim to your preferred seam allowance.
Step 10:
When you turn the paper over again, you now have a nice straight edge.
Step 11:
Pin the next piece of fabric to this straight edge.
It should be large enough to cover the A3 area when folded over after sewing.
Step 12:
Unfold the FPP template and sew along line A2.
Step 13:
Turn your FPP piece back over and press the seam allowance open.
You can see the seam roller in use here.
This is often faster than ironing the seams open.
Step 14:
Now fold the paper template along line A3 and again trim the seam allowance.
Step 15:
Another straight edge is created to which you can pin your next piece of fabric.
Step 16:
Turn it over again and pin it in place.
Step 17:
This is how it must look in the next step.
The strip is sewn onto line A4 and already pressed down.
Step 18:
Now fold along line A5 and trim the seam allowance.
Step 19:
It continues like this...
Here, the piece of fabric is sewn to line A10 and the seam allowance is already pressed down.
Step 20:
In this picture, the seam allowance on line A11 is now trimmed and...
Step 21:
...you can place the next piece of fabric on A11 and pin it in place.
Step 22:
Turn your FPP piece and sew seam A11. And so on up to A21.
Step 23:
Repeat the steps until your entire FPP piece is assembled. Make sure to position the fabric pieces correctly and take the seam allowance into account.
Then cut the paper into shape along the outer markings using an old rotary cutter.
Step 24:
Done! This is what your finished FPP block looks like from the front.
Now you can sew as many blocks as you like and join them together into larger pieces.
5. Sewing the sewing case
If you like, you can now join me in sewing a sewing case from the resulting FPP strip.
Step 1:
For this, sew 2 FPP templates of the smaller version.
Sew a fabric strip measuring 8 x 19 cm to the left and right sides of each.
Step 2:
In the next step, remove the paper; this is a bit easier if you moisten the seams with a magic water pen.
Step 3:
This is a bit fiddly and is best done with a lot of patience and tweezers.
Step 4:
Then sew another strip measuring 8 x 19 cm between the two parts.
If you do it before removing the paper, it won't look as crooked as mine 😉
Step 5:
Iron on a layer of interfacing or use a scrap of batting that you can attach with spray adhesive or safety pins.
Step 6:
Since I love sewing by hand, I am now quilting some stitches in the ditch.
You can also do this with a sewing machine and quilting thread using a stitch length of 4 mm.
Step 7:
This is what it looks like done by hand...
Step 8:
Now for the inside part: You can sew on compartments or needle cushions as you like.
I decided on a scrap of batting in the shape of a 1-inch hexagon, which I trimmed to shape with pinking shears.
As a needle holder, I covered a cardboard hexagon with batting and fabric. For your scissors, you can sew a matching pouch. For this, you need 2 identical pattern pieces with seam allowance.
Step 10:
For the inner side pocket, you need 2 pieces of fabric measuring 13 x 19 cm and a strip measuring 4 x 19 cm for the binding.
Sew all three parts together along the long side. Fold the strip over to the seam and fold it onto the other side.
Step 11:
Sew the binding strip down close to the edge by machine or by hand.
Step 12:
This is what it looks like done by hand.
Step 13:
Here you can see the needle cushion and the pieces sewn together for the scissor compartment. Leave an opening at the bottom for turning and trim the corners diagonally.
Step 14:
Place the batting and the fabric onto the cardboard and stretch it over. Baste the seam allowance around the edges. After that, you can remove the cardboard.
Step 15:
Fold your inner fabric in half and arrange your sewing accessories and the magnet on the left side.
Make sure that there is enough seam allowance left around the edges for later.
Step 16:
Pin everything in place and sew the parts on by hand. You can also use a sewing machine.
The magnet is sewn in between the hexagon and the inner part. Sew a button on at the bottom along the fold line of the inner fabric.
Step 17:
Use the sewing machine to attach the cord or ribbon close to the middle of the inner part. Attach the side pocket to the inner part with a seam allowance of 0.4 cm all around.
Step 18:
Trim the outer part to size, 19 x 36 cm.
Step 19:
Sew in the sewing magnets. Alternatively, you can sew in two small ribbons, which you place on the right side of the fabric between the layers.
Step 20:
Now it is time to sew the sewing case together.
Place the front part and the inner part with the right sides together and sew along the outer edge, one presser foot width (0.75 cm) from the edge.
,
Step 21:
Leave an opening of 5-6 cm on one of the long edges for turning.
Step 22:
Then turn the sewing case through the opening and iron it carefully to smooth out the seams.
Step 23:
Close the opening by hand with an invisible stitch. For example, you can use a mattress stitch.
Now you can decorate the edges with a topstitch; this can of course also be done with a sewing machine.
Decorate your finished FPP sewing case as you wish with buttons, ribbons, embroidery, or labels. Be creative and let your imagination run wild!
Step 24:
Your sewing case is finished!
Now you can sort your sewing utensils inside.
Congratulations! You have successfully completed your own foundation paper piecing sewing case. I am sure it looks fantastic and will bring you many happy sewing hours.
Don't forget to share your creations with the world and inspire others to also dive into the adventure of foundation paper piecing. And if you have any further tips or questions, don't hesitate to share them with us in the comments.
Happy simple sewing, Kati & Sabine
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