Sewing a French seam: It really makes sense for some sewing projects. Find out now what a French seam is suitable for, which fabrics you can use it on, and how even beginners can sew it easily.
The most important points at a glance
- French seams are suitable for neatly finishing blouses, unlined jackets, and much more
- They are perfect, in particular, for delicate and fraying fabrics like silk or viscose
- Even beginners can sew a French seam using these instructions
- Sewing time: depends on the project
- Sewing level: easy
French seam—it sounds mysterious and exciting, but the opposite is true. The seam is actually practical and really simple. And above all, it can be wonderfully used for those sewing projects where you have previously struggled with raw edges.
YouTube Video: Sewing a French Seam
What is a French seam?
Nothing more than a seam within a seam. It is sewn twice. This gives you a neatly sewn, enclosed fabric edge on the wrong side of the fabric. By the way, the seam is called a "French Seam" in English—you might stumble across this term in some clothing patterns...
Are French seams the same as tucks?
They do look similar, that's true. Tucks are sewn on the right side of the fabric. That means measured, topstitched from the right, and then usually folded in one direction and sewn down. Tucks are often used on the necklines of blouses, where they help regulate fullness and thus improve the fit.
French seams are often found in the sleeves of blouses made of delicate, translucent fabrics. But such a finished seam also looks great on knit fabrics! Just think of amazing cardigans where you no longer see any flapping seam allowances! ;)
Which fabrics are suitable for a French seam?
It can be used particularly well for delicate fabrics such as silk, cupro, chiffon, viscose, or even linen. But bags made of cotton, corduroy, or denim can also be professionally sewn with a French seam.
What is a French seam used for?
It is used wherever raw edges could be bothersome or noticeable, for example in the side seams of delicate blouses and tunics.
Even with single-layer scarves and infinity scarves, you can stylishly hide potential seams if you sew them with a French seam.
What should you keep in mind?
It is important that you do not use the French seam on fabrics that are too sturdy. This can create unsightly lumps that add bulk later on.
You must also keep in mind that the French seam requires more seam allowance. In total, the seam, as I show you in this post, requires a 1.5-centimeter (approx. 5/8 inch) seam allowance.
My tip
The unbeatable advantage of a French seam is that the seam looks great from the inside as well. This is perfect for unlined jackets and blouses, for example.
What many don't know: Because the raw fabric edge is neatly enclosed by the second seam, it does not fray.
You will look in vain for a bulky, overlocked fabric edge here. ;)
What do you need for a French seam?
- 2 layers of fabric
- Pins
- Sewing machine
- Iron
- Scissors
Photo tutorial: Sewing a French seam
- Place the two layers of fabric wrong sides together and secure them with pins.
- Sew along the fabric edge with a straight stitch at the width of the presser foot.
- Now trim the seam allowance to 2 - 3 millimeters.
- Press the seam open.
- For this, I use my mini iron* and my DIY ironing board, which I keep parked right next to the sewing machine! It really makes the work easier, if you ask me!
- Next, pin the fabric right sides together and press the seam neatly.
- Now sew the seam edge with a straight stitch at 1/2 centimeter (approx. 1/4 inch) wide.
- Press again and: done!
This gives you a seam that is beautiful from both sides with a neat, inconspicuous seam allowance. If you want the seam to be even flatter, you can topstitch the seam allowance down.
Do you like our instructions? Then definitely remember to leave a comment :)
Happy simple sewing
your Sabine
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