Sewing with the binder attachment on my coverstitch machine: At first, it was a complete mystery to me. But then, I discovered my love for beautifully finished shirts. Here are my tips & tricks!
Sewing with the double fold bias binder: These bindings are a dream!
Double fold bias binder: Just the word alone used to give me a sense of panic! And yet, binding fabric edges with jersey strips is not rocket science at all!
On the contrary: once the binder attachment is screwed on and positioned correctly, the actual binding process is child's play.
In this post, I will share my best tips and tricks for binding with a coverstitch machine.
I show how to use the double fold bias binder in my Baby Lock Primo review video.
How should the fabric strips be cut?
The required fabric width is stated on the double fold bias binder. You should definitely stick to this so that the strip can be folded correctly through the guide. For elastic fabrics, you can simply cut them in the direction showing the greatest stretch.
Sewing non-elastic fabrics with the binder attachment
If you are using non-stretch fabrics, you should definitely cut the fabric strips you want to use to finish the edge on the bias. This allows the strip to wrap around curves and corners particularly well.
So you cut it like classic bias tape, but you don't need to fold and iron it beforehand.
Sewing elastic fabrics with the binder attachment
For elastic fabrics, cut the fabric strips at a right angle to the grain line (and the selvedge). If your fabric is bi-elastic—meaning it stretches in two directions—you can cut it both along the grain line and at a right angle to it.
This creates a beautiful look, for instance with striped fabrics!
What you need to sew dream bindings
- Fabric clips*
- color-matching sewing thread*
- Tailor's chalk*
- Sewing machine
- Rotary cutter*
- Coverstitch machine*
- Binder attachment* (double fold bias binder)
- Fabric scissors*
A word about the coverstitch machine (and the overlocker!)
After showing my dream-worthy bindings and shirt edges on Instagram, many people asked how I managed it. And which machine I use for sewing.
Sewing has got a firm grip on me!
I realized this a few years ago. Specifically at the time when I started sewing more clothing for myself and my loved ones.
Back then, I would always longingly gaze at the perfect seams and hems on the homemade garments of my sewing friends. How do they do it?
The mystery was solved quickly: I needed an overlocker. Since then, I’ve been able to achieve the most amazing, smooth seams, especially with jersey, velour, knit fabrics, and other stretchy materials. Wonderful!
Ultimately, I ended up with a Babylock Enspire* after struggling with the decision for a long time. It does have quite a price tag... By now, I can only smile at that. The price has really more than paid for itself:
I now sew the most beautiful garments for myself. And sustainably, fairly, whenever I want, in organic quality, and as individual as I am myself. :)
After a while, I realized: the overlocker makes enchantingly clean seams. But it really can't do hems properly (except for "lazy" bindings...)
This is how I came to the coverstitch
What an acquisition. That's what I thought at first. Because the coverstitch* from Babylock is significantly more expensive than the overlocker. My trusted sewing machine dealer fortunately questioned me extensively about what kind of sewing projects I had in mind.
At first, I talked about what I had sewn so far. And then I started rambling. Through that, we arrived at what I would like to sew. Cool raglan sweaters, jackets, underwear galore.
He looked deep into my eyes (and into my sewing heart) and then recommended this one machine. Very purposefully, he marched off and said: "Try this one!". As if I were supposed to slip into a pair of handmade Italian pumps.
And that's exactly what it felt like. This is my machine. My coverstitch. We needed a short warm-up phase. After that, I sewed clothes like never before. And every day I’m just happy that I listened to him and "treated" myself to it... :)
From today’s perspective, the two machines are not a purchase: they are an investment. In good clothing.
A while ago, I got a binder attachment to go with the coverstitch. And that really makes my hemming happiness complete. I can't even say how complicated I had imagined it to be. Yet, after the first half-hour of getting used to it, it was child's play!
But don't worry, I'll share all my tips and tricks for sewing with the binder attachment with you right now!
Installing the binder attachment: Here's how!
First things first: the double fold bias binder (what a word!) and the coverstitch machine should be from the same manufacturer. Only then is it guaranteed that both truly fit together.
Choose a DFBB (I'll abbreviate it now ;) ) that corresponds to the width of your favorite bindings. There is usually an engraving on the binder attachment that provides information about the width of the binding strips that can be used. On my binder, it is 10 - 36 mm.
This is a good width for arm and leg cutouts or to beautifully bind necklines.
My coverstitch has threads intended for accessories like the binder attachment. This is what it looks like:
Next, you need the binder attachment and two matching screws. These are not included with Babylock but must be ordered separately.
I simply use two matching screws from the hardware store.
Now the binder attachment is placed over the threads so that the front threads can be seen through the slot.
Next, the binder attachment is loosely screwed on. Only tighten the screws just enough so that you can still easily slide the binder back and forth. This allows you to adjust it until you get a perfect seam.
Now feed the prepared fabric strip you want to use for binding into the binder attachment. This works best if you cut the strip at an angle and then wind it into the guide.
The left side of the fabric strip should face towards you.
Always cut the fabric strip a good bit longer than the edge you want to bind: with the binder attachment, you need a little lead time to adjust everything!
A small extra tip: If the fabric is very soft and doesn't push well through the guide and into the binder attachment, you can stabilize it beforehand with laundry starch* or Fabric Booster*. That helps tremendously!
Then, transport the strip with tweezers (which came with my coverstitch) up to the front tip of the binder attachment.
Once the strip emerges from the front opening of the binder, you can grab it with your fingers.
Raise the coverstitch presser foot and guide the strip underneath. Then lower the presser foot again.
Sew a few centimeters and check what the seam looks like.
If the seam looks beautiful and even and has a good distance from the fabric edge, you can get started with the binding.
Now tighten the screws of the binder attachment firmly.
Slide the edge of the pattern piece you want to bind into the fold of the binding strip with the tweezers.
The right (beautiful) side of the fabric should be facing up.
Hold the fabric well until you notice it being transported. This is usually the case after 2-3 cm.
Then slowly guide the fabric with the edge exactly in the middle of the binding strip.
Sew the edge to the end and then cut off the fabric strip.
This is what it should look like now:
Afterward, you can continue working with the pattern piece as usual.
Finishing a neckline with the binder attachment
Necklines on sweaters and shirts, leg cutouts and armholes on underwear, and much more can be beautifully finished with the binder attachment. For this version, I chose fold-over elastic, but you can also bind the necklines with jersey strips as in this example.
In order to be able to bind a neckline with the double fold bias binder, you first need the pattern pieces for the front and back.
To do this, close one of the two shoulder seams.
Press the seam allowances open.
Feed the fold-over elastic into the bias binder with the wrong side of the fabric facing you. If your fold-over elastic has a front and a back (a silver strip), as mine does, the right side should be facing up.
Sew a few centimeters until the seam looks good. If necessary, shift the bias binder back and forth a little to achieve the optimal setting.
Guide the fabric edge into the fold-over elastic. Make sure that the elastic is not stretched. Push the fabric along a little when sewing the curved neckline so that it doesn't get stretched.
The fabric edge should lie in the center of the fold-over elastic.
When you reach the shoulder seam, open up the seam allowance and continue sewing.
Now you can close the second shoulder seam.
Trim the fold-over elastic and open the seam.
Secure the seam allowances of the fold-over elastic with a short straight stitch.
Turned out great, don't you think?
Sewing fold-over elastic with a bias binder
Technically, the bias binder isn't made for fold-over elastic. However, those who dare to try it might be rewarded with the most beautiful elastic edges of their sewing life!
As described above, I also like to use this method to neatly bind cardigans and long jackets. Since then, I wear my self-sewn fashion with much more pride. Simply because it looks so perfect!
Here you can see my long jacket "Calista" made of a soft sweatshirt fabric, bound with 2 cm wide elastic fold-over tape in taupe.
To bind sleeves or hems, I simply leave a piece of the side or sleeve seam open. That is where I start the binding process:
Afterwards, the seam is closed with a sewing machine, and the seam allowances are opened and topstitched.
Sewing curves and rounds with the bias binder
Every material behaves differently. Therefore, you should do a test sew with scraps of the material.
Basically, for inward-curving edges, such as necklines, you should let the bias binder do the work on the straight sections. When reaching the curve, hold back the binding tape ever so slightly and let the fabric feed normally:
For outward-curving edges, guide the tape so that it runs into the bias binder without tension. To do this, gently push the fabric along with your left hand:
With this method, you will soon be able to sew hems that are just as neatly finished as mine! :)
I hope I was able to ease your fear of sewing with a bias binder and coverstitch machine. It is definitely worth a try: the results speak for themselves.
And, honestly, such beautifully finished pieces can be truly addictive. Since I got the bias binder, I wear my self-sewn clothing with even more pride than before! :)
What else can you sew with the bias binder?
A great project for the bias binder is Top "Kea": it allows you to create the cleanest necklines, curves, and hems. I'll show you what that looks like on Top Kea made of jersey with a golden bee print:
The bias binder is also a great option for projects like bustiers, where the stability depends entirely on the binding:
This binding technique is also ideal for necklines on shirts:
If you have any questions, feel free to write them in the comments.
Happy simple sewing,
your Sabine
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