Sewing a ragtime quilt: This is a patchwork project for beginners. With our instructions and the matching free pattern, your rag quilt will be a success in no time!
The most important things at a glance
- In this post, you will learn how to sew a ragtime quilt
- You will receive all information on the most common types of fabric for rag quilts
- and learn how much fabric you need for which quilt size
- You will get tips on batting that is suitable for ragtime quilts
- Sewing level: easy
- Sewing time: 1-2 days
Some time ago, Jeannette Knake, a Vlieseline expert and regular podcast guest on the topic of interlining, visited me for a coffee. Jeannette is bubbling over with sewing ideas and tries out all possible and impossible fabric and batting combinations. As soon as she has an idea, she has to put it into action immediately – in that, we are quite similar. And we get along famously in other ways, too.
When Jeannette brought her new ragtime quilt for her visit, I was totally blown away. What a light, soft, beautiful masterpiece! Moreover, one that is sewn much faster than a classic patchwork quilt. Perfect as a gift or for cuddling up yourself. So that you can also enjoy this cozy, warm feeling of a self-sewn ragtime quilt, I will show you how it's done in this guide.
So: Have you always wanted to try quilting or sew a patchwork quilt? Then grab some beautiful woven fabrics and get started!
YouTube guide: Sewing a ragtime quilt
What is a ragtime quilt?
A ragtime quilt, also known as a rag quilt, is a patchwork blanket with exposed seams. The seam allowances are visible on the finished quilt and are additionally clipped with scissors for the typical frayed look. There are different ways to create the frayed look.
What do I need to sew a ragtime quilt?
In addition to the fabric and batting, you naturally need your sewing machine and some basic accessories:
- Flannel (or another fabric from the fabric recommendation list)
- Scissors*
- Sewing thread*
- Pins*
- Sewing machine needle
- Matching sewing thread* (plus 1-2 full bobbin spools)
- Sewing machine
- Lint roller
I recommend a good daylight lamp so that you don't accidentally cut through the seams when clipping. And: Treat yourself to a Fiskars Micro-Tip scissor* for this job. They are simply the best scissors when it comes to clipping these long seam allowances.
But of course, these scissors are also fantastic as craft scissors or for cutting threads. I have been working with these scissors for years and am very satisfied because their cutting performance does not diminish.
Which fabrics can I use to sew a rag quilt?
As a basis for a ragtime quilt, all fabrics that tend to fray are suitable. Naturally, woven fabrics are at the top of the list. But knitted fabrics can also develop the typical frayed style with a few tricks. Here are my fabric tips for rag quilts:
| Fabric type | Processing tips | Source |
| Cotton woven | - "the classic" - for cooler blankets - clip seam allowance every 1-2 cm - wash 1-2 times afterwards - tumble dry if necessary - sew with size 80/90 universal needle |
Order cotton woven* |
| Linen | - "the natural one" - for summer blankets - strong fraying even with tight clips - combing reinforces the effect - sew with size 90 universal needle |
Order linen* |
| Flannel | - "the warming one" - for cozy warm blankets - cotton fabric with a brushed surface - available in many solid colors and patterns (often also plaids) - does not fray as much - needs more clips for the frayed look - wash 2-3 times if necessary - sew with size 90 universal needle |
Order flannel* |
| Muslin | - "the fluffy one" - for light, warming all-year-round blankets - crinkled fabric structure makes accurate cutting difficult - often only frays subtly |
Order muslin* |
| Sweatshirt fleece | - "the soft one" - for heavy, warming blankets - fabric does not fray, the clipped edges create a clean look - sew with size 90 stretch or super stretch needle |
Order sweatshirt fleece* |
| Jersey | - "the cozy one" - for light all-year-round blankets - jersey does not fray, edges roll up a bit depending on the type of jersey - sew with size 80 jersey needle |
Order jersey* |
What distinguishes a ragtime quilt from a "normal" quilt?
In short: A ragtime quilt is arguably the fastest quilt you can sew. Why? Because you can simply run the individual quilt sandwiches through the machine one after the other and then sew them together with exposed seams. Accuracy is not even that important; the edges are frayed, and the used look is desired.
With a "normal" patchwork quilt, the quilt top is sewn first, often even very elaborately (of course you can also, as I like to do, sew a quick patchwork quilt), for example with English Paper Piecing or another patchwork technique. Then, the top is quilted onto a layer of batting and the back. This is called quilting.
Quilting, i.e., sewing the three layers of fabric together, can also take up a lot of time. Often, patterns or structures are also quilted that pick up or underline the motifs of the fabric.
Here you can see a classic patchwork quilt in the Log Cabin technique. The individual layers are connected by wool threads.
With this American quilt, which is likely about 100 years old, you can see the fine quilting lines that connect the three layers. The quilt's seam allowances lie inside the blanket.
In contrast, a ragtime quilt looks downright rough, doesn't it? The open fabric edges fray a little more with every wash, becoming soft, fluffy, and beautifully frayed. The individual squares are quilted crosswise through all layers.
Which sewing thread is suitable for a rag quilt?
Use a durable sewing thread that goes well with all the colors in your ragtime quilt. For my ragtime quilt, I used the Seracyle thread from Mettler. It is made from PET bottles and is very durable. That makes sense, as such a blanket is washed frequently. But any other all-purpose thread* is also well-suited.
What do I need to keep in mind when sewing a rag quilt?
With a ragtime blanket, the combination of fabric and batting makes the difference. A thin cotton batting together with a fluffy flannel fabric can be warmer than a bulky volume fleece hidden between two layers of cotton fabric.
It is, of course, important to take good care not to cut through the seams when clipping the seam allowances.
Also not unimportant: The right working equipment. Dull, heavy-duty scissors can drive you to despair with this blanket because the incisions become inaccurate and the work takes unnecessarily much effort. Sharp, pointed scissors that open themselves via a spring mechanism are perfect for this job.
Also, make sure you have enough light when clipping (which can really be fun with the right scissors). I use a daylight lamp that illuminates my work area well.
Which batting is suitable for sewing a ragtime quilt?
The choice of batting determines how thick, soft, warm, and heavy your ragtime blanket will be. To sew your first ragtime quilt, you can fall back on iron-on batting. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that. The advantage: Due to the adhesive dots, the batting bonds well with the fabric and cannot slip.
I used Vlieseline R80 and R200 for my ragtime quilts. R 80 has 80g/sqm and the R 200 has 200g/sqm. Both are 100% recycled and thus absolutely trendy. They are voluminous yet light. The blanket becomes super light and particularly cozy. Both have the unbeatable advantage that you can press them onto the fabric with the palm of your hand. Then the fibers claw into the fabric, making pins unnecessary. Practical, right?
So that you can make the best choice for yourself, here are my tips and recommendations for suitable batting.
| Batting type | Features | Source |
| Vlieseline H630 | - iron-on, very thin batting - weight: 86g/sqm - for thin blankets - 40% recycled fibers, 60% polyester |
Order Vlieseline H630* |
| Vlieseline H640 | - iron-on thin batting - weight: 131 g/sqm - for thin blankets - 40% recycled fibers, 60% polyester |
Order Vlieseline H640* |
| Vlieseline R80 | - sew-in, thin, fluffy batting - weight: 80 g/sqm - for fluffy, thin, warming blankets - 100% recycled fibers |
Order Vlieseline R80* |
| Vlieseline R200 | sew-in, thicker, fluffy batting - weight: 200 g/sqm - for light, fluffy, thick blankets - 100% recycled fibers |
Order Vlieseline R200* |
| Cotton/Cotton Mix | - sew-in thin batting - weight: 80-170 g/sqm - for thin all-year-round blankets - 100% cotton or 80% cotton + portion of polyester |
Order cotton batting* |
| Bamboo Mix | - sew-in thin batting - weight: 145 g/sqm - for thin all-year-round blankets - 50% viscose (from bamboo), 50% cotton |
Order Bamboo Mix* |
| Soya Mix | - sew-in thin batting - weight: 80-170 g/sqm - for thin all-year-round blankets - 47% soya, 46% cotton, 7% scrim |
Order Soya Mix* |
| Vlieseline P120 | - medium-thick, sew-in batting - flame retardant - weight: 120g/sqm - for warming blankets - 100% polyester |
Order Vlieseline P120* |
| Vlieseline P140 | - thick, sew-in batting - flame retardant - weight: 140g/sqm - for warming, very fluffy blankets - 100% polyester |
Order Vlieseline P140* |
| Wool Mix | - fluffy wool batting - weight: 100g/sqm - for warming blankets - 45% wool, 65% polyester |
Order Woolmix* |
Here you can clearly see the difference between the thicker Vlieseline R200 (bottom) and the thinner R80 (top):
How much fabric do I need for which blanket size?
With this sewing technique, you should account for a larger seam allowance than usual. A 2 cm seam allowance is the rule here (and is also included in our free pattern for the ragtime blanket).
For a blanket approximately 136 x 180 cm in size, you will need 48 prepared size 2 squares. You need 2 meters of fabric per side (with a fabric width of 140 cm). In other words: 4 meters of fabric in total. You can, of course, mix the colors and materials however you like.
Would you like to sew a baby blanket? Size 1 is very well suited for cushion covers and baby quilts. Here, 1 meter of fabric per side is sufficient for a baby patchwork blanket measuring approx. 1x1m.
How do I need to pretreat the fabric?
Before cutting, you should wash and iron the fabrics first so that they do not shrink or bleed color during the first wash. Additionally, pre-washing ensures that any excess dye, sizing, and chemicals are washed out.
If you prefer not to pre-wash, intensive ironing with plenty of steam is also sufficient. Once the blanket is finished, it is put through the washing machine 1 to 2 times, which is part of the work process (and ensures that the fabric edges become nicely frayed).
Reading tip: Wash fabrics before sewing?
How do I calculate the finished blanket size?
The patterns for the batting serve as the base measurement, because they (at least approximately) represent the finished size of the squares. The closer you sew to the batting (for example, by setting the needle position right next to the batting), the more reliable this calculation is.
Assuming an edge length of 21 cm for an individual sandwich, a quilt row of 6 squares is approx. 136 cm wide.
How is a rag quilt sewn?
After the quilt sandwiches have been quilted, the individual sandwiches are first sewn together into rows. Then, you join these rows into strips. The quilt sandwiches lie on top of each other wrong sides together, so that the seam allowance is clearly visible from the top side of the blanket.
Where can I get the free pattern for the ragtime blanket?
You can download the pattern for the ragtime blanket in 2 sizes for free in our freebook section.
Passing on the pattern is prohibited, as is commercial use. If you would like to sell sewn items, you should download a SewSimple license in advance.
Print the pattern at 100% without scaling. The printer should be set to “Print document and all markings” so that the labels are also transferred to the pattern pieces.
A seam allowance of 2 cm is already included in the pattern.
How can I get the free pattern?
Would you like to sew the rag quilt? Great! In order to access this and over 100 other exclusive freebooks and free patterns, the best way is to proceed as follows:
- Sign up for the SewSimple newsletter
- Click the newsletter sign-up in the confirmation email: Yes, I want to…
- After receiving the SewSimple welcome email, you are officially a sewing mail subscriber
- Create a customer account with the same email address*
- Log in
- Click on the download link or go to the pattern via the freebook section of your customer account.
It may also help to clear your cookies and cache, use a different browser or incognito mode, or use a different device. It often works on a PC or laptop if it doesn't work on your mobile phone.
It is also always a good idea to check if your browser is up to date or if your browser settings are preventing a download. :)
- Please understand that I cannot send the pattern by email. Unfortunately, I cannot answer requests regarding this. This makes it all the more important that you follow the instructions above for the download correctly.
- For questions about your customer account, be sure to take a look at the FAQs!
- If the freebook section is not displayed on your mobile device, it helps to open the page on a PC. You can also swipe left in the mobile view to see the download link. 🙂
- If you have already received the newsletter but forgot to confirm your subscription (this can happen for technical reasons), it helps to unsubscribe using the "Unsubscribe" link at the bottom of the newsletter, sign up again, and then confirm your subscription.
Which presser feet should I use to sew a rag quilt?
Are you unsure which of your presser feet you can use for this sewing project? Let's take a closer look at that:
- Zigzag foot: The "standard foot" – is well-suited for "normal" seams and is also perfect if you want to adjust the needle position so that the needle pierces right next to the batting
- Straight stitch foot: Some sewing machines come with a so-called straight stitch foot. It is suitable for firm fabrics and straight stitches. If you want to sew a zigzag stitch with it, it is very likely that the needle will break (small stitch hole!)
- Zipper foot: The classic for inserting zippers, but it is also suitable for narrow spots, e.g., to sew directly next to the batting edge of the patchwork blanket
READING TIP: For tutoring on the subject of presser feet, feel free to read my blog post on it – Presser feet and their use
Instructions for sewing a ragtime quilt
Well, do you have everything ready? Once you have decided which fabric and which batting you want to use, it goes super fast, I promise! So: Let's go!
First, we prepare the quilt sandwiches.
To do this, lay out all the backing pieces and arrange them as they should appear in the finished blanket (in this case, it was easy for me because I used exclusively gray muslin).
Place the batting squares on top.
This doesn't have to be too precise yet; it is sufficient if there is 1 batting square on each backing piece.
Arrange the cut pieces for the top side on the batting pieces. You can mix them wildly or, as I did here, lay out a diagonal pattern.
Now you can grab the first quilt sandwich and start sewing.
These are the basic ingredients for 1 quilt sandwich:
- 2 x fabric
- 1 x batting
Place the first fabric square (for the bottom side of the blanket) so that the wrong side is facing up.
Place the batting piece on the fabric so that there is a distance of approx. 2 cm to the cut edge all around.
Place the fabric square for the top side with the wrong side of the fabric on the batting.
The fabric edges of both fabric pieces are flush.
Draw a mark for the quilting lines. You can quilt criss-cross over the square.
Or simply sew a small seam in the middle of the batting. The main thing is that the batting is connected to both layers of fabric and cannot slip anymore.
These are the basic ingredients for 1 quilt sandwich:
- 2 x fabric
- 1 x batting
Sew around the quilt sandwich with a seam allowance of 2 cm.
If possible, set the needle as far to the left as possible so that you can sew closely along the edge of the batting.
This is what it should look like now.
In this way, all quilt sandwiches are now prepared.
So that you don't get mixed up, you can stack or number the sandwiches.
Now sew the sandwiches together, wrong sides together, into long rows. In doing so, sew along the first seam (i.e., the one that runs directly next to the batting).
The seam allowance is visible, open, on the top side of the rows.
Then, place the prepared rows flush against each other, wrong sides together, along the long edges and sew them together along the first seam.
When you reach a seam intersection, sew up to the seam. Then backstitch to secure it.
Fold the seam allowance forward so that you don't accidentally sew over it.
Then fold the seam allowance to the other side and start right at the seam.
In this way, the seam allowances at the intersections are highlighted nicely and aren't just flattened down.
Then fold the seam allowance to the other side and start right at the seam.
In this way, the seam allowances at the intersections are highlighted nicely and aren't just flattened down.
Sew all the rows together. Make sure you keep the correct order. Numbering them is a good idea here, too.
I had one turned around and had to do some ripping first... ;)
Clip all seam allowances at intervals of 1–1.5 cm, cutting about 1 cm deep.
Be careful not to cut through the seam.
Jeannette recommends a goat hair brush* to remove the lint from the clips.
Wash the quilt 1–2 times in the washing machine so that the fringes form nicely.
To prevent too much lint from ending up in the washing machine, you can put the blanket in an old pillowcase before putting it in the machine.
After that, it's time for a lint roller. And then your quilt is ready for cuddling. :)
Jeannette's muslin quilt in soft sea tones
Jeannette's flannel quilt in rich turquoise and blue.
My ragtime quilt, freshly washed and ready to be given away.
Conclusion: Sewing a Rag Quilt – a soft, warm feeling of happiness
I have never held a softer, lighter, fluffier, and cozier quilt in my hands! I am so glad Jeannette showed me her method for a rag quilt! If I had known how easy it was, I would have sewn a ragtime blanket much sooner.
Would you like to try it now and sew your first ragtime blanket? Great idea! With our pattern, even beginners can make such a velvet-soft patchwork miracle, I promise.
Feel free to write in the comments how you like this tutorial! We are curious to see what you make with it.
Happy simple sewing, Jeannette & Sabine
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