Sewing on ribbing is no witchcraft at all! With my guide and many helpful tips and tricks, even beginners can sew beautiful ribbing on shirts and pants in no time.
The most important things at a glance
- Ribbing for sweaters and shirts can be sewn from different materials
- In this post, I'll show you a few simple methods to calculate the length of the ribbing strip
- I'll show you different instructions and variations on how you can sew on ribbing
- You can sew on ribbing with a sewing machine or overlocker; I'll show you both options
- The ribbing is usually calculated using the following formula: neckline circumference x 0.7 + 2 cm seam allowance
- Below, you'll find different types of ribbing, variations, options, and tips
All about ribbing, or what?
Sewing on ribbing is one of the easiest exercises—if you know how to do it! You can also take a look at how to sew a shirt with a V-neck.
To make it really easy for you in the future, I'll show you various options and methods for sewing ribbing onto hems, necklines, pants, or skirts. And I'll explain exactly what beginners need to pay attention to when sewing on ribbing.
We'll also look at the different materials and talk about special features and tips for working with tricky fabrics.
In this post, take a look at how you can sew a shirt with a V-neck. Of course, you can also sew a facing on a neckline. I'll show you how that works in a separate blog post.
Reading tip: Sewing jersey with a sewing machine
More for sewing beginners
Tips: Sewing on ribbing
First of all, I'd like to give you some general tips on ribbing. Once you know these basics, it will be even easier for you to sew on ribbing in practice.
What fabrics can I sew ribbing from?
Ribbing can be sewn very well from stretchy fabrics: jersey, French Terry* or stretchy viscose fabrics are ideally suited. Ribbing made from so-called ribbing fabric is also great.
It comes in smooth or ribbed versions. It is beautifully stretchy, but thanks to its knitted structure, it also quickly pulls back together and retains its shape.
I particularly love organic ribbing fabrics from Alb-Stoffe* because they are absolutely stylish, beautiful, and sustainable at the same time—simply great!
The elasticity of ribbing fabric can vary greatly. Especially if you want to embellish the neckline of children's clothing with ribbing, you should use soft, stretchy material.
Reading tip: Wash fabric before sewing
Viscose jersey*, like the black dotted fabric in the photo, is usually not dyed through. It is very stretchy, so it can be useful to cut the ribbing slightly shorter (I usually take 1–2 cm less) than the calculation formula would suggest.
Important: If it is too short, it will stretch out a lot, and the white underside that appears when a fabric is printed and not dyed through will show through.
Here we have two classic cotton jerseys*, but they curl up differently. Both are perfect for neck ribbing and can be easily calculated using the formula I describe under "Calculating ribbing length".
A little tip: To make it work really well, I cut the ribbing with a ruler and rotary cutter, even with fabrics that curl up a lot. I carefully smooth the fabric with the ruler while doing so.
Absolutely brilliant for sewing beginners: Interlock jersey*. It practically doesn't curl up at all, but it is a bit more expensive than "normal" single jersey. Overall, it is usually dyed through, heavier, and firmer than single jersey because it is knitted differently, with two needles. Single jersey is known for being knitted with one needle. I particularly like the Organic Interlock Jersey* from Stoffe Hemmers.
When working with interlock jersey, the fact that the edges lie beautifully flat comes in handy when sewing on ribbing:
This makes it easier not only for beginners: Advanced sewing fans will enjoy it too... ;)
Of course, you can also buy pre-made ribbing. I'll show you in detail how to work with it in the post Sewing with Pre-Made Ribbing.
By the way, you can also sew ribbing from woven fabric, but it is not stretchy and does not fit as nicely as jersey or ribbing fabric.
Which stitch to use for sewing on ribbing?
Because ribbing is stretchy, it is best sewn on with a stretch stitch. Zigzag stitches or seams made with an overlocker are perfect.
But the overlock stitch on your sewing machine or the overcasting stitch can also work well.
It is best to try out the planned stitch on a test piece first.
By the way, you can also sew elastic ribbing with a short straight stitch. I'll show you how that works further down in this post.
Calculating ribbing length
Depending on the stretch, the rule of thumb for calculating the ribbing is:
Neckline circumference x 0.7 + 2 cm seam allowance (for very stretchy fabrics like jersey)
Neckline circumference x 0.8 + 2 cm seam allowance (for slightly firmer fabrics like ribbing fabric or French Terry)
Of course, you can also add any other seam allowance. Just follow the settings on your sewing machine or overlocker.
Important accessories for sewing on ribbing
Of course, the sewing patterns you use will also state how much ribbing fabric you need. Or how to calculate the required amount. Many of my sewing patterns also include an extra pattern piece for the ribbing. This way, you don't even have to calculate! ;)
- Jersey* or ribbing fabric*
- Fabric marker*
- Straight pins*
- Rotary cutter*
- Cutting mat*
- Tape measure*
- Sewing machine or overlocker
- Fabric scissors*
- Calculator ;)
Cutting ribbing
Using a rotary cutter and ruler is very useful for cutting ribbing straight and evenly.
It is important to first straighten the cut edge of the ribbing. And do so at a right angle to the fabric grain.
Ribbing fabric almost always comes as knitted tubular fabric, i.e., a closed fabric tube that is cut open on one side after cutting.
I also recommend using a combination of a rotary cutter and ruler for cutting. This gives clean, precise results.
Instructions: Sewing on ribbing
Below, I'll show you different instructions and variations for sewing on ribbing. For example, sewing on a sleeve ribbing works a bit differently than sewing on pants ribbing. Just take a look at the tips below :)
Sewing ribbing on a neckline
There are different beautiful and simple methods here, which I will show you step by step in this section.
Note: I often gather the neckline before sewing in the sleeves. Why do I do that? Because then I have to handle much less material while sewing the neckline. This saves time, effort, and nerves. :)
Here I gather the neckline with a piece of ribbing fabric.
So you need:
The front and back pieces of the shirt, as well as a 4–5 cm wide strip of ribbing fabric (my strip is 4 cm wide).
Close the shoulder seam of your top right sides together with a sewing machine or overlocker.
Lay the shirt so that the shoulder seams are together. This way, you get a well-measurable length.
Determine the length between the center of the front and the center of the back neckline.
The formula is: Half length x 2 x 0.8 + 2 cm seam allowance. I used the formula 0.8 because my ribbing fabric is quite firm.
Cut a correspondingly long strip for the neckline and close it into a ring by sewing the right sides together. The seam allowance is 1 cm.
Fold the long sides of the ribbing ring wrong sides together with the seam allowances folded out.
Divide the ribbing ring into 4 equal sections.
Also divide the neckline into 4 sections: front center, back center, and the shoulder seams.
The open fabric edges of the ribbing and the neckline should lie flush against each other.
My extra tip for a flat front neckline: You might be wondering why the neckline isn't also divided into 4 equal sections? This is because the front neckline is more rounded than the back. It is important that the neckline lies flat in this area.
To achieve this, the ribbing should be stretched a little more when sewing it on in the front neckline area than in the back. For a "normal" neckline, the shoulder seams are perfect as reference points!
Pin the ribbing to the neckline at the markings so that all open fabric edges lie flush against each other.
Now sew the ribbing on with the overlocker or an overlock stitch on your sewing machine.
Stretch the ribbing while sewing, but not the fabric.
Then you can iron the ribbing. Done!
Extra tip: Sewing on the ribbing with the overlocker (without an unsightly start)
A little extra tip: Clip the ribbing into the overlock stitch up to the straight seam so that you can fold the seam allowances nicely apart.
Then lay the ribbing strip together wrong sides together. The seam allowances are facing different directions.
Start with the presser foot raised and the needles in the upper position. Push the fabric really straight and as far under the foot as possible.
Turn on the overlocker knife and sew around the neckline as described above. Check again and again that all 3 fabric edges are still lying flush.
When you have sewn all the way around, cut off the thread tail with the knife, stop, and turn off the knife. Then sew over the beginning of the seam by a few centimeters.
Pull the fabric out from under the presser foot and loosen the threads by moving the handwheel up and down a few times. Then you can cut the threads and sew them back together.
Turned-in neckline ribbing
This is what a turned-in neckline ribbing looks like. It not only looks stylish, it is also very easy to sew.
Cut a ribbing strip that is approx. 2 - 3 cm shorter than the neckline. Many patterns assume that the ribbing strip should be as long as the neckline. However, I recommend cutting it a little shorter.
Why? Because otherwise the neckline will quickly become loose and very unsightly. If you cut it a little shorter, it will look much cleaner and smarter.
Here's how:
Close the shoulder seams.
Also close the ribbing strip right sides together into a ring.
Sew the ribbing ring right sides together in a single layer of fabric to the neckline.
Stretch the strip evenly while sewing.
This is what it should look like now:
Fold the seam allowance up.
Fold the ribbing strip over the seam allowance towards the inside.
Then fold the seam allowance together with the ribbing strip towards the inside again.
Secure the folded ribbing strip with fabric clips.
Topstitch the ribbing strip firmly all around with a straight stitch, just inside the edge.
See? It looks great, doesn't it?
This is one of my favorite neckline options besides the neckband because it is so discreet. And yet it creates a really sturdy neckline that won't stretch out.
Open-sewn ribbing
In this ribbing variation, only one of the shoulder seams is closed before the ribbing is sewn in.
So we need again: front piece, back piece and ribbing strip - this time it is made of French Terry and is again 4 cm wide.
Close one of the shoulder seams right sides together.
Fold the ribbing strip lengthwise wrong sides together.
Lay it right sides together against the open shoulder edge of the front or back piece.
Now place the beginning of the ribbing strip under the overlocker and sew the strip slightly stretched to the unstretched neckline.
Go slowly and carefully. You can also test beforehand on a sample piece how much stretch the fabric can withstand without puckering.
This is what it should look like now:
Fold the ribbing up so that the seam allowance disappears into the neckline and lay the shoulder edges right sides together flush against each other.
Close the shoulder seam together with the ribbing using a sewing machine or overlocker.
A little extra tip: If you sew with the overlocker, you should first secure the ribbing with a tack stitch in 1 or 2 places with the sewing machine. Then you will have a nice clean finish.
However, I close the shoulder seam completely with the sewing machine and a short straight stitch, which is well suited for this French Terry.
Fold the seam allowances of the ribbing apart and secure them with a short straight stitch.
Done.
Sewing ribbing on sleeves (open and closed)
There is also an open and a closed variation here. Once we sew the ribbing on with the overlocker and once with the sewing machine.
Let's go! :)
Sewing ribbing open on sleeves or trouser legs
This chapter could also be called: Sewing on ribbing made of ribbing fabric. But it works exactly the same with jersey.
This method is especially suitable for children's and baby clothes because it saves you the fiddling with tiny ribbing rings.
You can use the two variations shown here for both sleeves and trouser legs.
You need: sleeve or trouser leg, 10 cm wide ribbing strip in the length calculated according to the formula.
This means: The ribbing length on the sleeve (just like on the hem) is calculated like the neckline ribbing.
Fold the ribbing strip lengthwise wrong sides together.
The left side is usually less ribbed than the right. But you can also fold the left, smoother side outwards if you like that better.
Pin the ribbing at the front and back to the hem edge so that it is slightly stretched.
Now you can sew the ribbing on slightly stretched with the overlocker or sewing machine.
Make sure that all three fabric layers lie flush.
After the start of the seam "settles", the fabric is stretched evenly.
Then sew through in one go to the end.
This is what it looks like now:
Fold the fabric edges flush against each other. The ribbing is folded up, the seam allowance folded towards the inside.
Close the sleeve seam with the overlocker or sewing machine.
Lay the thread tail along the seam towards the inside.
Fold the seam allowance over the thread tail.
Topstitch the seam allowance firmly from the right with a short straight stitch.
This is what it should look like now:
Sewing closed sleeve ribbing
You can also use this method on sleeves and trouser legs. The ribbing length is calculated as usual using the method described above.
Close the sleeve seam.
Close the ribbing on the short sides right sides together into a ring.
This is what it should look like now:
Fold the seam allowances apart and fold the ribbing wrong sides together on the long sides.
Divide the sleeve edge and ribbing into 4 equal sections.
Push the ribbing right sides together into the sleeve.
Why don't we do it the other way around? Because that is much more complicated to sew: The sleeve has much more width than the narrow ribbing ring. So much more fabric bunches up in a small space than if the ribbing is on the inside. :)
Place the ribbing and the sleeve edge neatly on top of each other at the markings.
This time we're sewing the ribbing with the sewing machine so you can see how neatly that can work too.
For this, I'll set a zigzag stitch. A stretch stitch works just as well, though.
The open edges lie flush against each other. And I'm sewing the ribbing all around with a zigzag stitch.
You can still finish the seam if you like. Ribbing and sweatshirt fabric don't fray, so that's not necessarily necessary.
Exception: pre-made ribbing. It tends to curl up very easily and should therefore be nicely finished.
Now the seam allowance can be folded inside. The ribbing will then stand up all by itself.
Well, that looks pretty good, doesn't it? :)
By the way, you can also use this sewing technique to sew a ribbing onto a beanie. Here's the link to my freebie Sewing a Beanie. :)
Sewing on Jersey Ribbing
The length of jersey ribbing is multiplied by a factor of 0.7 depending on the stretch of the fabric. Otherwise, the formula is the same as the one I showed you above in this post. By the way, this ribbing is perfect for T-shirts and fine jersey fabrics.
Jersey is usually thinner and less stable than ribbing fabric. But it's also stretchier and more supple, which makes it easier to work with.
Especially for beginners, I recommend interlock jersey, which hardly curls at the edges and is much easier to work with than viscose or modal jersey or single jersey.
In my example, however, I sewed a plain cotton jersey with a strong tendency to curl to show you that this can work well too.
Also, I'm sewing the neckline ribbing with the sewing machine here. Maybe you're wondering how to sew on ribbing without an overlocker. I'll show you. It's quite easy!
I've already closed the shoulder seams.
And sewn the ribbing strip (4 cm) back together into a ring.
My tip: I fold the ribbing strip lengthwise wrong sides together and iron it. This makes it much easier because the fabric edges won't curl up as much.
The neckline and ribbing are placed together again using the method we already know at the front and back centers as well as at the shoulder seams.
And that means right sides together.
You should iron out the shoulder seams beforehand. This helps keep the seams nice and flat.
Now the open edges are placed together flush at the markings.
Great! Now it's time for the sewing machine. Set an overlock stitch or a stretch stitch.
I like to sew with the edge foot so that the seam is nice and even.
Start the seam in the shoulder seam area. This way the start won't be visible.
You can read Everything about sewing machine feet in my blog post. In a separate post, I show you the overlock stitch with the sewing machine.
Stretch the ribbing slightly while sewing it on, while the neckline fabric remains unstretched and lies nice and flat.
Sew completely around the neckline once. Then it should look like this:
Pretty good, right?
Give your stylish neckline one more steam iron.
This is what it should look like now:
Give it a try right away!
For example, with Kea, my versatile top for a shirt, tunic, or dress with two neckline options and 3 sleeve lengths.
Sewing ribbing onto pants or a skirt
In this case, it doesn't matter whether the skirt or pants are made of stretchy material. The ribbing holds the wide upper opening of the pants or skirt together with its elasticity.
In the example, I show a ribbing that has a seam on both sides and is slightly fitted. However, a ribbing consisting of only one piece will be sewn in using the same principle.
Close the ribbing into a ring as usual and join the long edges together wrong sides together.
Divide the waist opening and the ribbing into equal sections. The front and back centers as well as the side seams have proven to be good guides.
Place the ribbing at the markings at the waist opening.
Sew the ribbing all around flush with the overlocker.
Stretch the ribbing again while doing this, not the fabric.
This is what it should look like now:
Fold the ribbing inside. Done.
The slightly fitted shape of the ribbing emphasizes the beautiful shape of the skirt here.
How can you sew ribbing tighter?
It works best if you cut the ribbing and unfold it. Then you can sew the ribbing along the old seam to the desired width and put it back in.
Sewing on elastic ribbing
You want to sew your own underwear, but you're not quite sure how elastic ribbing works? Don't worry, it's not hard at all.
At SewSimple, there are sooooo many underwear patterns. And in the instructions, I show in great detail and in small work steps how, for example, elastic ribbing is sewn onto panties or underwear.
So here is an example from one of my eBooks: Boxer shorts Horst.
The length of the elastic ribbing is noted on the pattern. Alternatively, you can also measure the ribbing directly from the future boxer shorts strap.
Close the elastic band strip into a ring right sides together.
Unfold the seam allowances and stitch them down on both sides of the seam with a straight stitch.
Divide the ribbing and the waist opening into 4 equal sections.
Place the ribbing wrong sides together flush against the waist opening. The lettering (if your ribbing has any) should face down.
This is what it should look like now:
Sew the ribbing around the waist opening with a short straight stitch, e.g. 1 mm all around, while stretching it slightly.
This is what it should look like now:
Trim the seam allowance of the main fabric to 2 - 3 mm before the seam.
Fold the elastic ribbing to the right.
The seam allowance disappears quite elegantly under the elastic ribbing. And the lettering is right side up again! ;)
Now you can pin the ribbing all around firmly and stitch it down with a short straight stitch just inside the edge.
Take your time and make sure the fabric lies nice and flat.
Oh, I love it!
Give it a try right away!
The pattern for Boxer shorts Horst is available for boys and men. Also available in the Shop: Comfortable boxer shorts for women and girls.
Topstitching the ribbing
You want to fix the seam allowance to the main fabric? No problem. If you work precisely, it results in a clean look that any store-bought sweater can hide behind.
Here are my tips for neatly topstitched ribbing:
Work with a stitch that supports the stretch of your fabric: This can be a decorative stitch, a triple straight stitch, or an elastic straight stitch. The elastic straight stitch is also sometimes called a "narrow zigzag", but it means the same thing: A stitch whose seam looks like a normal straight stitch from the right side.
So that a triple straight stitch also looks great, I recommend a larger stitch length, e.g. 3.5.
By the way, a triple zigzag also looks good, for example, take a look:
Of course, you can also sew the topstitching very well with the twin needle. You can find a detailed guide to the decorative stitch with the twin needle here on the blog.
The upper thread and lower thread should be made of the same thread: When topstitching ribbing, it can sometimes happen that the lower thread shows through the needle holes of the seam. But it is invisible if the upper and lower threads are the same.
Also, another important thing: Many machines are extremely sensitive when the upper and lower threads come from different spools, or even have completely different qualities. This can easily cause the seam to break halfway through. Especially when sewing a topstitch , it's frustrating if you have to start over. You can also read my post Help, my seams are breaking!.
Keep your distance: The right presser foot can be worth its weight in gold when topstitching. Whether you're topstitching a zipper or securing a seam allowance, an edge-stitch foot is perfect for the job.
It's equipped with a small guide that you can easily follow along the seam.
By the way, edge-stitch feet come in different versions. Be sure to check out my blog post about presser feet.
Adjust the sewing speed: If you sew too fast (it sometimes happens to me that I get a little overexcited about finishing a project and sew too fast...), you'll quickly lose track. If your sewing machine is equipped with a speed control, like my Juki: Great!
If your sewing machine sews slowly or quickly using a foot pedal: You'll need a little foot control. ;)
And then nothing will stand in the way of your beautifully topstitched cuffs!
By the way: I explain how to get such a stylish striped finish (it's also called a topstitch stripe) in my tutorial Finishing a neckline with jersey strips.
I hope you're now really excited to add stylish cuffs to your self-sewn garments in the future!
Feel free to write to me in the comments about how you liked this tutorial. I look forward to hearing your opinion.
Happy simple sewing, your Sabine
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