Sewing your own clothes is a huge trend. Here are my tips for pattern adjustment and preparation for sewing.
The most important things at a glance
- Sewing your own clothes is fun and sustainable
- To ensure your handmade garments fit perfectly, there are a few things you should keep in mind
- In this post, I will show you how to adjust patterns to your measurements
Sewing your own clothes is a trend that gives you the opportunity to dress in a way that is uniquely personal and sustainable. There are many reasons why more and more people are sewing their own clothes: from the joy of creative production and the ability to create perfectly fitting garments, to avoiding fast fashion and the environmental burden associated with it. And, of course, it's also about putting together a wardrobe that you can use to its full potential because the individual pieces work really well together.
In this blog post, I will therefore dedicate myself to the topic of "sewing your own clothes" and provide you with tips and tricks for getting started in the world of sewing. No matter if you have already gained some sewing experience or are just starting out - here you will find inspiration, instructions, and valuable information to sew gorgeous one-of-a-kind pieces yourself.
A question in advance: Is sewing your own clothes actually cheaper?
I get asked this quite often. My answer is usually: It depends on what you are comparing it to. Good fabric and good patterns have their price. However, the thing is that you don't need an infinite number of patterns to build a functional wardrobe. You can adapt many patterns and sew them from different fabrics. So, pay attention to the potential for variation when buying.
If you compare a handmade one-of-a-kind piece with a shirt from a discount store for 7.99 euros, your handmade shirt might not seem like a bargain at first glance. A good jersey might cost 10 euros. If we assume 1.5 meters, that's already 15 euros for the fabric, plus another 5 euros for the pattern, thread, electricity, and other "small things." Then there is the "labor time" on top of that.
However, if you opt for upcycling—for example, by turning old jeans into denim skirts or using discarded bedding to sew dresses or blouses (just make sure you've used the right thread color beforehand when dyeing!)—the price aspect suddenly looks very different.
So: Can you really compare the quick shopping experience for an off-the-rack shirt with the creative process of making a hand-sewn unique piece?
From my point of view, when you sew your own clothes, you have maximum control to ensure you are wearing sustainable, socially fair, and environmentally friendly fashion. And that is especially true if you make conscious decisions when buying your fabrics.
In summary, it can be said: in terms of price, sewing your own clothes is initially more expensive. But for the environment, it is often significantly cheaper because long transport routes (except for the fabric—and we have limited influence on that) are eliminated, labor is not exploited, and the creative process supports a conscious approach to putting together your wardrobe.
And to ensure you are truly happy with your handmade wardrobe, here are a few tips & tricks for you.
1. Choose the right pattern
Choose a pattern that can be easily combined with your existing wardrobe. The following aspects are important:
- Can the finished pattern be combined with as many garments as possible?
- Is the pattern sewn from a fabric you like to wear and that is easy to care for?
- Is the cut designed to allow for variations?
- Is the sleeve width designed so that the finished garment can be easily worn over or under other pieces?
- Does the cut fit your body shape well, e.g., by incorporating bust darts or hip curves?
- Is the finished garment suitable for everyday wear?
2. Wash the fabric before sewing
It is important to wash fabrics before sewing. Only this way can dye residues, sizing, dust, and dirt be effectively removed from the fabric. On their way from production facilities to printing and onto the shop counter, fabrics must be protected against pests, light, or contamination. Chemical agents are used for this, which you would rather not have on your skin. One or two washes help to remove these substances and, for example, prevent contact allergies.
Reading tip: Wash fabrics before sewing
Another benefit of pre-washing: the fabrics shrink as expected, the fibers tighten, and become softer. This means that your finished garment not only feels pleasant—it won't shrink after sewing either.
3. Determine your correct body measurements
Even if it sounds clichéd: you should take your correct measurements before sewing. Bodies change over time. A bust point might slide down, meaning the bust dart needs to be set lower. Or the waist might get fuller, so you should sew a size 46 instead of a 44 here.
- Ask a friend to help you take measurements
- Stand straight but relaxed
- Wear the underwear you plan to wear under the finished garment
- Place the measuring tape tautly over the fullest part of each body zone (the finished garment has to fit over it too)
- Do not pull in your stomach and do not hold your breath
Compare the determined measurements with the body measurement chart.
What is the difference between the body measurement chart and the finished garment measurement chart?
Our eBooks all contain a table with body measurements. And one with finished measurements.
The body measurement chart tells you which measurements we assume for which size. When you measure yourself, it is best to write your measurements down on a piece of paper and then compare them with the measurements in the body measurement chart. Then you know which size you should sew.
The finished garment measurement chart tells you what measurements the finished garment has in which size. You can use it to compare with a similarly cut garment from your closet. It is important that the fabric of the garment is similarly elastic or inelastic to the fabric you want to sew. And of course, the finished garment measurement chart also tells you something about how loose or tight your new piece will be on each part of your body. The finished measurement chart also contains the ease. They ensure that your garment not only fits but is also comfortable to wear.
My tip: Use both tables to find the perfect size for you. It is best to then sew a test model from cheap fabric to see if adjustments are necessary.
4. Sew between sizes
Do you feel like me, and your measurements just won't fit the specified table? That's not a problem at all. And if it's any comfort: people whose body measurements consistently require the same size are as rare as umbrellas in the desert.
That's why it's good if you can learn to sew "between sizes" in the future. I'll show you how it works.
You need: measuring tape, pen, tailor's ruler
How it's done: Take your measurements at the waist, hips, and thighs. Determine the appropriate size for the three body areas based on the measured values. So you know at what height you have to draw the markings afterwards, you can simply hold the pattern against your body. This works best when someone helps you. Mark the sizes with dots on the seam lines.
Now connect the points smoothly with the tailor's ruler. You can use the edge of the ruler that best matches your body shape.
For comparison: the red line indicates the "regular" seam progression, the black line runs "between the sizes."
Important: The front and back of the trousers should be changed at the same height. To find the right height, you can use the trouser hem as a guide (front and back of trousers are often cut at different heights).
My tip: Before you cut into your favorite fabric, you should test on a test model made of cheap fabric whether the changes have brought the desired fit.
5. Use lengthening/shortening lines
Most patterns are designed for a specific body height. For us, that is 168 cm. Are you taller or shorter than 168 cm? Then you should change the pattern accordingly. SewSimple patterns often have lines where you can lengthen or shorten them in a "pattern-compliant" way. I'll show you how that works here.
TIP: Pattern-compliant means that you can change the patterns without losing the fit.
You need: paper, ruler, pen
Cut the pattern apart at the "lengthen/shorten here" line.
Glue a piece of paper underneath and draw a line on it parallel to the cut edge with the width of the desired extension.
Glue the second pattern piece to the new extension line.
Connect the cut lines with a tailor's ruler. Now you can cut out the pattern and use it.
TIP: To shorten, you also separate the pattern at the line, shorten it by the desired length, and glue it back together. If a step forms when joining, glue a strip of paper under the joint and even it out with the tailor's ruler.
6. Adhere to seam allowances
Even if it's tempting to cheat a little with the seam allowances: this might cause a garment to lose its shape. The correct seam allowance ensures that your finished shirt fits exactly as it should.
And this naturally applies both to the seam allowance of your sewing machine and that of your overlock.
Set seam allowance on the sewing machine
Determine the seam allowance of your sewing machine by measuring the distance between the right edge of the presser foot and the needle. That is a foot-width seam allowance. If the needle position of your sewing machine can be changed: Perfect! If not, you can help yourself by pulling a rubber band over the free arm and guiding the fabric along it. Here, too, you should check in advance whether the distance between the (taut) rubber band and the needle corresponds to the information on the pattern.
Maintain seam allowance with the overlock
What applies to the sewing machine naturally also applies to the overlock. Even if you conjure up your shirt completely with the overlock, you should find out in advance which seam allowance is set on your overlock.
For patterns that include the seam allowance
You want to sew a shirt and find the following information on the pattern: Seam allowance 1 cm.
That's half the battle. Now you set the stitch on the overlock that you want to use for sewing. Sew a seam on a test piece. Then measure the seam width with the ruler. I sew most overlock seams with a seam width of 7 mm. When the knife then cuts off another 3 mm, I am at 1 cm, and everything is fine. You can adjust the cutting width of the knife as you like. That makes things very easy.
For patterns that do not contain a seam allowance
Your shirt pattern does not contain a seam allowance? Also no drama. In this case, you transfer the pattern to the fabric without a seam allowance. The drawn pattern line is also your seam line. When cutting, you simply add the seam allowance by feel. It should be at least as wide as the stitch you are using. However, it doesn't matter if you cut it a little wider. 1–1.5 cm are great. I would not recommend more than 2 cm, otherwise you will have too much waste and your scrap bin will overflow very quickly.
After cutting, pin the parts together. It is important that the seam lines lie exactly on top of each other. You can check this by sticking pins vertically into the fabric at the seam lines. If the needle goes through both seam lines: perfect!
Now you can start sewing. The left needle should pierce exactly in the seam line when sewing. Just imagine the needle is walking on the pattern line you drew on the fabric.
7. Stick to the fabric recommendations
As tempting as it may be to simply use a pattern designed for jersey for woven fabric: You'd better not. It can work—but it doesn't have to.
So that your clothes fit well and do not restrict you, patterns have ease. They ensure that you can move well and the garment does not sit on top.
Patterns for jersey, i.e., stretchy fabrics, contain significantly smaller ease than those for woven fabric, because the fabric itself is stretchy. So if you sew a garment based on a pattern designed for jersey using woven fabric, it may be that the finished shirt is much too tight.
You can only truly guarantee success if you stick to the fabric recommendations, including the thickness of the fabrics. If a pattern is designed for sweatshirt fabric, but you sew it using jersey, this will also affect the fit and the look of your finished garment.
8. Iron the fabric before cutting
To ensure that everything fits perfectly and the cutting process is accurate, you should iron your fabrics before cutting them. Only then will the pattern paper lie flat. Cutting wrinkled fabric carries the risk of "cutting in" the extra width created by the creases. This has an impact on the fit. Furthermore, the edges of pattern pieces cut from wrinkled fabric are often uneven. This also inevitably leads to inaccuracies.
9. Pin the pattern correctly onto the fabric
Do not cheat when pinning the pattern: Half a centimeter of distance from the fabric fold can mean that the facing of the shirt no longer fits or that the front and back pieces do not align correctly. A bust dart cut too wide can mean that the side edge is suddenly shorter and the entire shirt pulls out of shape. It is therefore crucial that the pattern lies exactly on the fabric fold.
Transfer the markings completely and accurately
Especially with soft, flexible fabrics, it is important to transfer the markings onto the fabric while you are cutting. If the fabric is moved, it is practically impossible to determine the correct position of the markings afterwards. A small snip with the rotary cutter or scissors can help here. Just cut briefly into the seam allowance and you will know where the notch or the marking should be.
Incidentally, this is particularly tricky with darts. Here you should really ensure that both darts sit at the same height, otherwise the finished garment will not look harmonious.
10. Press as you sew
You should also press repeatedly between the individual work steps. This shapes the seams and gives darts their final form. Especially when it comes to intersecting seams, pressing is important so that seams are not sewn together while folded. If that happens, it is almost impossible to shape the seams properly in the finished garment. This can have a negative effect on the fit.
Did my tips help you? Which one did you like the best? And what do you pay attention to when sewing your clothes? Write it in the comments, I look forward to hearing from you.
Happy simple sewing, your Sabine
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