Sewing Softshell: Softshell is a great material and absolutely suitable for beginners! In this post, you will learn everything you need to know if you want to sew with softshell.
Sewing with softshell – go for it!
After not daring to try sewing with softshell for a long time, I hear in my Facebook group that many people feel the same way.
That is why I have put together all the tips, tricks, and information you need in this post if you want to sew with softshell!
One thing upfront: Even sewing beginners can achieve great sewing results with softshell!
Read my tips - and dare to be waterproof! ;)
And then: For your first project, simply sew a cool softshell gym bag with our pattern, including the cutting pattern.
What is softshell?
Softshell is a sturdy, flexible material that is mainly used for functional and outdoor clothing such as coats, jackets, mud pants, hats, and capes.
Softshell combines many advantages because it is water-resistant (not waterproof!), warm, and breathable at the same time.
This is because it consists of three layers. The bottom layer, worn against the body, is made of a warming fleece fabric. This is followed by a breathable membrane that wicks moisture away from the body. On top is a water-repellent laminate layer (partially also Teflon-coated), on which water beads off.
Softshell is very easy to sew and is not without reason a particularly popular material!
What can beginners sew from softshell?
Perfect for softshell: LOVIS pattern
To get a feel for the material, small sewing projects like pencil cases, cosmetic bags, sleeping bag cases, backpacks or gym bags are super suitable. For all projects, you can find suitable patterns here on the blog.
Is softshell lined?
No. Softshell is practically lined by default due to its three-layer construction. This makes it easier for you to sew beautiful jackets and coats - you only need the single layer of fabric.
This way, the garment does not add bulk, and you can show off a little figure despite the cold season. ;)
Cutting softshell
To obtain smooth edges, it is recommended to cut with a sharp rotary cutter* (in the photo you see my pretty Fiskars cutter) on a self-healing cutting mat. A sharp pair of scissors also works well.
However, I do not use my beloved Superperfection* (I only use it for cutting cotton and jersey) but rather my second favorite (and slightly cheaper) Paul scissors*. I have the impression that cutting laminated fabrics dulls scissors faster.
To fix the pattern on the fabric, you should use sewing weights instead of pins. They hold the pattern in place without damaging the laminate layer.
Unfortunately, the fleece underside leaves a lot of lint on the cutting mat. One trick is to lay the water-repellent fabric side down when cutting. This significantly reduces the linting of the cutting mat!
If it does happen, my tips for cleaning the cutting mat will help you further.
Does softshell have a grain?
Yes, it does. You can tell by the fact that the fabric is possibly more stretchable in one direction than the other. However, once it is cut from the bolt, it is very difficult to trace the grain. If necessary, you can have a marking made directly at the store to be sure.
If there is no major difference in elasticity and the pattern allows it, it is quite possible to cut smaller parts (mud pants, hats, divided jacket cuts) also across the grain.
For large parts like jackets or coats for adults, this option is rather not available. Even if the unsewn fabric shows little elasticity, on the body - worn as a jacket, for example - it can behave differently.
What can be sewn from softshell scraps?
The question about the grain brings me directly to the next point. What do you do with softshell scraps? There are many great possibilities here!
You can use the scraps to sew divided playground pants for children. Also rain hats and hats as well as arm warmers (here we also have a beginner-friendly freebook for you!) and gloves are great out of softshell.
The same applies to functional bags, belt and hip bags (do you already know our Napirai hip bag? Sewn from softshell, it is a great companion on your next hike!).
Also cosmetic bags, pencil cases, gym bags or Messenger Bags are a blast out of softshell! The same applies to tablet and phone bags. Featherlight, water-repellent, and nicely padded. A dream.
Fixing softshell: But how?
Imagine a freezer bag filled with water - it holds nicely tight - until it is pricked with a needle.
Softshell works similarly. Although it is not 100% waterproof, it is water-repellent due to the laminate membrane. If you perforate the fabric layers with pins, small holes are created, which, unlike cotton, do not close completely again. Moisture can later penetrate into the inside through them. And the effect is gone.
I therefore recommend working with fabric clips instead.
With them you can simultaneously set markings for your sewing project.
However, small fabric clips are sometimes overwhelmed by thick layers of softshell. I use these large clips* for this.
Also a good idea is the use of Wonder-Tape* instead of pins. Just a few small pieces are enough to connect two fabric layers together without slipping. Also tested by me are the small double-sided patches* from Style-Fix. Not bad at all (also very practical for reinforcing eyelets!).
The good thing about the tapes is that you do not have to activate them with iron heat - simply stick them on, peel off the carrier film, fix the second fabric layer, and press briefly. The construction is finished.
But beware: Do not sew directly on the tape - otherwise the needle will stick. If it does happen to you, you can clean the needle with a little sewing machine oil on a cotton pad (if it sticks too strongly, I have also successfully used nail polish remover for this...).
Sewing settings for softshell
Here you will learn which settings are suitable for softshell.
Presser foot pressure for softshell
By now, softshell is available in very different qualities. For this reason, a blanket answer is not possible here - every sewing machine works differently.
However, it is worth sewing a test piece before actually sewing together your sewing project. On this, you can set the required presser foot pressure.
Feel free to sew several seams and vary the pressure - then you can see afterwards which seam you like best and use it to complete your project.
On my Janome machine (you can read my test and experience report about this little gem here), I get along very well with the automatically set presser foot pressure for softshell.
Which stitch length for softshell?
Generally, a larger stitch length than for cotton or jersey is recommended for softshell. 3.5 - 4 is usually a good choice here. Every hole in the fabric offers moisture the opportunity to penetrate into the inside of the jacket.
And that is exactly what we do not want.
Which thread tension for softshell?
Similar to the presser foot pressure: It depends! If you are sewing a very high-pile, voluminous softshell, you may need a lower thread tension. For a very thin softshell, you may even get by with the normal thread tension.
Again, it is better to try it out on a test piece first.
On my Janome, the seams look most beautiful with the preset thread tension - I do not have to regulate anything.
The right sewing thread for softshell
I sew thin softshell with my (repeatedly mentioned) favorite thread from Gütermann: the All-purpose thread.* With the exception of the odd embroidery or patchwork project, where I also like to sew Madeira threads or organic cotton quilting thread (what a word!), there is practically nothing else for me.
The all-purpose thread has done a very good job so far with every thin softshell - it is simply so smooth. And I think that is what matters most with softshell.
I sew thicker softshell with Madeira Aerofil*, because I find it even more glide-friendly for this task than the all-purpose thread.
Which needles can you use to sew softshell?
That depends very much on the condition of the softshell. A universal needle with 80 - 100 strength is quite decent in most cases.
If you are serious about your softshell project, however, you should invest in a Microtex needle* . These Microtex needles are also available in different strengths. I sew softshell with strength 80 - 90. That works best on my sewing machine.
Sewing softshell with a test piece
Before you start, you should try out all the settings of your sewing machine on a test piece.
Every softshell behaves differently. Therefore, it is worth trying out different seams until you find the setting you like best.
Making seams of softshell clothing waterproof
The seams of your new softshell jacket are, as we now know, not waterproof. Because the material is a little flexible and "swells into the seams" (tell me if you come up with a better wording... ;)), the seam seals itself a little bit practically.
If you want to be on the safe side, you can seal the seams with Seamgrip* . This is an outdoor glue that is also used for repairs on functional clothing.
Marking softshell: How does it work?
This is a thing in itself. Normally I mark fabrics with the Frixion* or with the Koh-i-noor*.
However, the Koh-i-noor does not stick to softshell.
And with the Frixion, the following happens:
Even with a lot of heat (from a hairdryer), the Frixion cannot be completely removed.
Consequently, I only use the Frixion for markings on the back and/or inside the seam allowances.
Because softshell does not fray, you can also make markings by pricking directly when transferring the pattern:
Embroidering softshell: Appliqué on softshell
If you want to embroider softshell over a large area, the many needle stitches will break the water-repellent membrane on the top.
One option is to make the embroidery beforehand on a stabilizer and then tack it down on the softshell with a long stitch.
Sticking appliqué with fabric glue
Another way to apply appliqués to softshell is to glue them on with fabric glue. An outdoor glue is recommended, such as Seamgrip* , which can also be used to seal seams.
What fabrics can be combined with softshell?
So many options are possible! Jersey, canvas, sweatshirt, French Terry, or webbing can all work very well as facings or inner cuffs.
Ironing softshell - yes or no?
To prevent the laminated layer from melting, softshell should only be ironed at a low temperature.
Sewing softshell with an evenstitch foot
You can do it, but you don't have to. In my experience, the sewing machine's regular presser foot glides easily over both sides of the softshell, so an evenstitch foot isn't necessarily required.
It's a different story when you have many layers to sew. An evenstitch foot can certainly be very useful in this case. It's best to try out a few seams with a folded sample piece!
Finishing softshell fabric edges?
Softshell doesn't fray. However, internal seams look nicer if they are finished with an overlocker, overlock stitch, or zigzag stitch.
Flat seams on softshell - here's how!
I finish the fabric edges of my softshell cut pieces with an overlocker.
Then I place both cut pieces together right sides together and secure them with fabric clips.
Here I only have two layers, so regular clips are sufficient.
Using a straight stitch (stitch length 4), I sew along the edge of the overlock seam.
In the photo you can see that the needle enters directly next to the overlock seam.
This is what it looks like from the right side now:
Using a low iron temperature (setting 1 - 2), I iron the seam allowances apart (by the way, I also test the correct iron setting on my reliable sample piece, so nothing goes wrong...).
Then I topstitch the seam allowances from the right side with a long straight stitch (stitch length 4 again). Through the softshell, you can feel whether the seam allowance is positioned correctly).
Next, the seam allowance from the other side is attached...
This way, the seam lies very flat, cannot stand up, and does not add bulk.
For demonstration purposes, I sewed with brown all-purpose thread so that the seams can be clearly seen in the photos.
You can also see in the picture how even the seams turned out.
Unpicking softshell seams?
I'd like to say: Of course it's better if it doesn't have to be.
But sometimes it just has to be. And then it's no catastrophe! Just don't drive yourself crazy if it happens once in a while.
The needle holes in the seam even "spring" back a little, especially if you used a microtex needle.
So it's better to unpick it once than to get annoyed about crooked seams afterwards! :)
Read everything about seam rippers here too!
Washing softshell
Softshell clothing should be washed as little as possible. Fabric softener is an absolute no-go. It can cause the garment to become practically unusable.
Too high washing temperatures and dryer heat can also ruin your beautiful new softshell jacket.
Light soiling can be removed with a damp cloth. Airing it out also helps a lot. Many manufacturers recommend not washing softshell at temperatures higher than 30°C and using a mild detergent, and avoiding the dryer.
Pre-washing softshell?
Softshell doesn't shrink and therefore does not need to be washed before sewing.
Waterproofing softshell
You love your softshell jacket - and have to wash it often? As soon as you notice that the waterproof layer is becoming more permeable, you should re-waterproof the jacket. I have had very good experiences with Nikwax* - it is practically odorless and environmentally friendly. You might remember it from my review of coating fabrics.
After washing and drying, the Nikwax is sprayed onto the fabric once or more. Then let it dry thoroughly.
There are also special detergents and wash-in waterproofing for functional clothing - also from Nikwax*. However, I haven't tried how well that works yet.
Why is the zipper on my softshell jacket puckering?
This may be because you are sewing a sturdy zipper onto a flexible fabric. But there is help for this, so don't worry. Feel free to check out my blog post on the topic of sewing in a zipper without puckering.
Where can you buy softshell?
I got the softshell for my latest sewing projects at Stoffe-Hemmers*. There are major quality differences with softshell. And if I'm going to take the trouble to sew a jacket, it should also stay beautiful for a long time.
A tip: Stop by Hemmers more often - really cool and rare designs are sometimes sold out quickly. No wonder.
I also really liked the magic softshells that reveal a design when they come into contact with water.
Happy simple sewing,
your Sabine
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