Overlock & Coverlock sewing machines compared: In this blog post, you will find out what each machine can do, which is suitable for whom, and how to get started with overlock sewing!
If you have looked around my blog a little, you surely know that my overlock and I are thick as thieves. We have experienced—and sewn—so much together. Incredible! And that’s after I was initially really afraid of sewing with the overlock. Maybe because it’s so fast. Or because the overlock knife worried me.
But honestly: the worry was completely unfounded. The overlock—especially my Baby Lock—is the best thing that could have happened to me regarding sewing. Since I’ve had it, I finally dare to sew clothes for myself and my loved ones. And I love it.
It’s no wonder, really, that sewing with the overlock inspired me so much that I wrote a book about it, right? Are you already familiar with my sewing book bestseller "Näh doch einfach OVERLOCK*"?
You already know my Babylock Enspire* from many of my sewing tutorials (usually it looks a bit worn because colorful fabric dust clings to it...). ;)
Recently, it got a sibling: a coverstitch machine from Babylock. Funnily enough, I have the same level of respect for it. It just always takes a bit to get used to each other, right?
This is what my CoverStitch from Baby Lock* looks like:
I think you can see that both "come from the same stable"—the controls are also in similar places, so I’m sure I’ll lose my fear of touching it very quickly. :)
Recommended reading: Buying an overlock sewing machine
What is an overlock?
The overlock is a machine that can sew, trim, and finish fabrics in a single step. It is possible to fold the overlock knife away. Then the overlock does not trim the fabric edge. Instead, it only finishes it and encloses the untrimmed fabric edge with the chosen overlock stitch.
The time saved by sewing with an overlock is enormous: If I use the (elastic) stitch on a sewing machine and subsequently finish it with a zigzag or overlock stitch, it costs me more than twice as much time.
This is also because the overlock sews incredibly fast.
But it can do more than just sew two layers of fabric together: sewing on piping and elastic bands also works great with the overlock. This makes sewing with jersey, stretch fabrics, etc., a real pleasure.
Important to know: The overlock works exclusively on the fabric edge. It is not possible to sew in the middle of the fabric with it.
And: It only sews forward. You cannot sew backward to secure the seam.
Unlike a regular sewing machine, the overlock features differential feed. This means that one feed dog moves the fabric toward the needle, and a second one moves the fabric away from it. Using a dial, you can adjust the speed at which each feed dog should work. This is practical because you can prevent jersey from rippling. And: you can adjust the differential to gather the fabric. This is what the Baby Lock Acclaim looks like:
Recommended reading: Baby Lock Enlighten Overlock test report and unboxing
Securing the overlock seam
This can be done in several ways:
- Sew over the finished seam beginning again from the left side. This is done either with the knife folded away or far enough from the knife that the seam is not damaged, just secured.
- Create a thread chain of about 10 cm at the seam ends. Double-knot the threads, pull them through a thick needle with a blunt tip, and thread them through the seam.
- Let the thread chain extend about 3 cm and fix the threads onto the seam with textile glue. Prym offers a textile glue* in a tube that is very economical.
Read more tips and tricks on sewing with the overlock here!
What can I sew with the overlock?
The overlock creates beautiful seams on garments, rolled hems on scarves, sews cushion covers, underwear, is suitable for raw-edge finishing of clothing, can gather, ruffle, stretch; with the right sewing foot and an overedge stitch, it can sew on elastic bands, bind fabric edges—and all of this works particularly well with delicate and elastic fabrics.
What is a coverstitch machine?
A coverstitch machine, unlike an overlock, has no knife to trim excess fabric. Basically, the coverstitch machine is a pure hemming machine—and that is what it is sometimes called.
The coverstitch machine works with up to 3 needles on the fabric. You can also sew elastic hems with it—using only one needle and the chain stitch. But its true strength lies in hemming T-shirts, sweatshirts, etc. That famous seam on the neckline of a raglan sweater is also the work of a coverstitch machine.
It is equipped with a differential feed that guides the fabric evenly under the needles. This is what a cover stitch looks like, for example:
Many coverstitch machines are only allowed to sew to the fabric edge. You can tell this if, according to the manufacturer's instructions, you have to stop there and pull the threads out, for example with a ruler or an awl, and cut them. Otherwise, you cannot "free" the fabric.
A real exception is the Baby Lock Coverstitch. If I lift the foot after sewing, the feed dog lowers, and I can cut the threads without any problems.
By the way, the coverstitch machine is also unbeatable for binding necklines and hems. Specifically with a fabric strip placed in a single or double fold binder. I will show you how that works step-by-step in my blog post Sewing with the binder.
This is what the Baby Lock Coverstitch looks like:
Of course, there are many other great coverstitch machines from Baby Lock. The most innovative of its kind is the Baby Lock Primo. It not only conjures up beautiful cover stitches without skipped stitches, but it can also fundamentally expand your creative possibilities with its pendulum foot. This is what it looks like:
Click here for the Baby Lock Primo test report.
What is the difference between an overlock and a coverstitch machine?
Both are equipped to work with large cones of thread. These cones sit securely on the spool holders. Alternatively, you can use smaller thread cones or other threads, provided their weight matches the manufacturer's specifications for the machine.
Both machines have tension discs that regulate thread tension. This is crucial when you use different types of stitches. In your coverstitch or overlock manual, you can read which thread tension is suitable for which type of stitch. Most machines I am introducing here have manual thread tension. This means you have to regulate the tension by hand.
Both machines can sew with multiple needles. The coverstitch machine can work with up to three needles, the overlock with up to two.
On both machines, the seam width can also be regulated. For the coverstitch machine, the distance between the needles can be adjusted; for the overlock, the setting of the stitch width and stitch type determines the width of the seam.
What is a coverlock?
A coverlock is a combination of an overlock and a coverstitch machine. It has the functions of both types of machines, but in some cases, it can do even more: the Baby Lock Gloria, for example, can perform combo stitches, with which you can not only sew and finish but also decorate very beautifully. The seams are also suitable for woven fabrics and are extremely durable. This is what a combo stitch looks like, for example:
This is what the Baby Lock Gloria coverlock looks like:
You can see that the Baby Lock Gloria has more places for cones than "normal" overlocks or coverstitch machines. That is because you also need more threads (and needles) for combo stitches.
Sewing jersey with the overlock
The overlock is ideal for sewing jersey, sweatshirt fabric, knit fabrics—but also for silk, cupro, linen, cotton: basically, all fabrics can be sewn perfectly with the overlock.
For very thick fabrics, it is sometimes necessary to adjust the presser foot pressure. How to do this is in the manual of the respective machine. This can be done either manually (with a screw) or with a dial, depending on the machine design.
This is what a classic 4-thread overlock stitch from a Baby Lock overlock machine looks like.
Can I also sew woven fabrics with the overlock?
Of course, that even works great. There are certainly sewing fans who think that overlocks and woven fabrics don't go together. But I am not one of them.
Why is that? I can tell you:
- With the overlock, you can wonderfully finish the fabric edges of woven fabrics. And much cleaner and faster than would ever work with a sewing machine.
- You can also sew pattern pieces made of woven fabric together with the overlock. To be sure that the seam is nice and durable, simply set a support stitch with your sewing machine before the overlock seam. And it is best to do this with a thread that matches the fabric color. Because this seam will lie in the fabric fold. This means: the overlock seam can be colorful; you won't see it from the outside. But the sewing machine seam should match the fabric. :)
Sewing machine with overlock stitch
Many modern sewing machines have an overlock stitch. With this, fabric layers can be sewn and finished at the same time.
However, the sewing machine does not cut off the excess fabric. It also does not transport the fabric with a differential, meaning only the bottom fabric layer is actively moved; the top one just runs along. As a result, stretchy, delicate, or slippery fabrics can ripple during sewing.
You can find more info in my post Overlock stitch with the sewing machine - here is how it's done!
Threading the overlock: How does it work?
That is the question many overlock and coverlock newcomers ask themselves. Take a good look at your machine. It is provided with color and/or number markings. The threads follow these one after another. The machine's manual describes exactly what steps are necessary to thread the machine correctly. You should definitely stick to the manual here; otherwise, the machine might not work at all.
It is important that the threads really click into the thread tension.
When threading the needles, curved tweezers often help, which are included with many machines anyway.
The machines from Baby Lock have a Jet-Air system that handles the threading. One of the reasons why I love these machines so much, honestly. It is really incredibly easy. This makes changing the thread color child's play.
If your machine does not have this feature, you can also change the thread cones by simply knotting:
To do this, knot the old thread before the thread tension to the new one. Lift the presser foot and pull the thread through to the needle. If the knot blocks at the needle, cut it there and rethread it. This technique works for all four (or five) cones.
Important: Before you start sewing, you should try out on a test piece whether the seam looks good. Then you're ready to go! :)
Click here for the tutorial: Threading the overlock
Tips for overlock thread
My tip: Better to spend a little more on good thread than to get annoyed later about poor seams. In my experience, high-quality threads have their price.
Cheap threads from discounters like to break or fray. The seams often just don't look as good and clean as they do with high-quality sewing thread.
Threads for overlock & coverlock usually consist of 100% polyester and are more durable—but also thinner—than all-purpose sewing thread for the sewing machine.
From Mettler, there is Trojalock*, an incredibly good, durable thread in beautiful colors. Also available from Mettler, woolly nylon and Seralene, a very thin overlock thread for delicate fabrics.
Sewing with woolly nylon
Bulky thread is fantastic for clothing: It ensures that the thread "bulks up" a little: The seam remains smooth but is particularly soft and comfortable against the skin. This is great for children's clothing - but I also really like using it for my own handmade pieces!
Mettler produces a super nice, very easy-to-use bulky thread* in great colors, which I can highly recommend.
The bulky thread is only threaded into the looper threads. These are the threads that form the loops in the seam. As such, they make up the largest part of the thread material. If the thread loops consist of soft material, the seams are also beautifully soft and supple.
This is because bulky thread is loosely twisted. After sewing, it splays out into a fine web of thread. You can test this yourself by simply unwinding a piece of bulky thread from the cone. You will see that the thread immediately gains volume.
Another good feature of this synthetic thread: It sinks nicely into the fabric, which means that the seams are not only softer but also flatter than with all-purpose overlock thread.
Transparent sewing thread
A thread that professionals really like to sew with is transparent sewing thread. Sometimes it is also called "semi-transparent" because you can still see the darker shades on the fabric. It is very tear-resistant, consists of 100% polyester, and is available from various manufacturers.
I have tried the ones from Madeira and Sulky.
The thread from Madeira is called Monofil* and makes very inconspicuous, smooth seams. The sewing thread is currently available in the colors White* and Smoke*. Both are boil-proof, tear-resistant, and suitable for dry cleaning (e.g., for high-quality handmade coats and jackets).
The company Sulky also produces a very fine transparent sewing thread*. It is also suitable for use in overlock and coverlock machines, but I find it most convincing for quilting: The thread quilts patchwork blankets practically invisibly.
Do I need special overlock needles?
Yes and no. You don't necessarily need them - many seams with overlock and coverlock machines also work well with universal, stretch, or jersey needles, depending on the fabric you want to sew.
Overlock and coverlock needles* are special needles for use in coverlock and overlock machines. This needle is particularly durable and therefore suitable for the high sewing speed of these machines.
Important: Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for your specific machine when choosing needles!
Overlock for beginners: Learning to sew with an overlock
The machine is threaded, the fabric is ready - and now what?
Now it's time to: Keep your cool! Unlike a standard sewing machine, where you shouldn't sew without fabric under the presser foot, this is perfectly possible and allowed with an overlock.
Start by lowering the presser foot. Then carefully step on the pedal and just sew a chain of thread.
See if it forms loops nicely and evenly. Then you can guide a piece of fabric under the presser foot for the first time. You don't need to lift the presser foot with the lever for this. It is enough to lift the front of the presser foot slightly and place the fabric underneath. The powerful feed dogs then grip the fabric and guide it under the needle.
Start with jersey or cotton fabric in a single or double layer. It's better to take it easy at the beginning and try out all the stitches and options of your new overlock in peace. And I really mean: in peace. No one should disturb you while doing so. Getting to know the new machine is a learning process - the better you know it, the less afraid you will be of it. And the more relaxed you will be when sewing.
Overlock sewing without a knife
What all overlock machines have in common is that the knife can be folded away to sew and finish seams without cutting the fabric. This is useful, for example, if you want to sew a nice transition at the beginning of a seam.
It is best to check your manual to see how the knife can be folded away on your specific device, as the machines differ greatly in terms of construction.
Sewing corners and curves with the overlock
This is one of the special challenges that await you once you really get started with your overlock. Again, the same applies: You really don't have to be afraid of it - there are a few tricks you need to know. Then you will master this task easily, wanna bet?
You can find the guide to sewing corners and curves with an overlock here on the blog!
If you like the article, please leave me a comment!
Happy simple sewing, your Sabine
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