Overlock stitch with the sewing machine: Here’s how!

For a long time, I didn't realize how practical an overlock foot actually is. If you pay attention to a few details, you can achieve beautiful, clean overlock stitches with it. I will show you how the overlock stitch works with your sewing machine!

The most important things at a glance

• You don't necessarily need an overlock machine to get beautiful, clean overlock stitches
• There are overlock feet or edge sewing feet for most sewing machine models that you need for an overlock stitch
• When sewing stretchy fabrics, you should make sure to use a stretch or jersey needle
• I will show you how to recognize an overlock foot, how to attach it, how to align the fabric edge, how to set the overlock stitch, and what the finished overlock seam looks like

You can use this seam technique for jersey as well as for cotton and other fabric types. (See also: Which fabric for what?).

There are also different overlock feet for different sewing machine brands. Most cost less than 10 euros. Brother usually includes the overlock foot directly. Read more here about sewing feet and their use.

If not, you can order it on Amazon here^* (Brother, Babylock, Singer, Janome). For other sewing machines (e.g., Privileg, Medion, W6, Victoria, or AEG) you can get it here^*.

• Important: You can also find the best general tips for sewing with an overlock on SewSimple :)

When sewing jersey or sweatshirt fabric, you should make sure to use a stretch or jersey needle. Jersey needles have a ballpoint tip that pushes through the holes in the fabric without "cutting" the material.

My sewing machine whisperer recommends those from Schmetz^*, but I find that those from Prym^* work just as well.

Important: Many overlock stitches on a sewing machine are not stretchy. While you can sew jersey with them, the finished seams are not as elastic as a real overlock seam.

Reading tip: More about sewing feet and their use.

Overlock stitch (also called faux overlock stitch) with the sewing machine

This is the standard straight-stitch foot. It is removed first.

To do this, press the small lever on the back until the foot releases.

Recognizing the overlock foot

This is what the overlock foot looks like on my Brother sewing machine^*. This can vary slightly depending on the manufacturer.

You can use a completely standard edge sewing foot.

Attaching the overlock foot

Now you attach the overlock foot. Guide the thread through the cutout in the presser foot towards the back.

Aligning the fabric edge

Align the fabric edge so that it rests directly against the guide rail in the presser foot:

Setting the overlock stitch

Now set an overlock stitch. There are different stitch programs depending on the machine.

Almost every modern sewing machine has this overlock stitch (or a similar one).

Relieving thread tension

Guide the fabric^* carefully along the rail. The thread is guided over the small metal bar in the presser foot as you do so.

What is that for? To relieve the tension on the thread (and thus the seam). In this way, the edge is neatly bound without curling.

You can see the small bar well in this picture.

Finished overlock seam

And this is the finished overlock seam.

Other overlock stitches

As mentioned, there are also other overlock stitches, but they are sewn in exactly the same way.

My Brother^*, for example, also has this overlock stitch:

The seam then looks like this:

From the right side, you will then have a nice, clean seam.

Conclusion

You see: You don't necessarily need an overlock machine to get beautiful, clean overlock stitches! But when choosing your stitch, remember that these overlock stitches are not necessarily elastic.

Happy simple sewing

yours, Sabine

The most important questions at a glance