Using patterns: You have bought a pattern. Now you want to copy and transfer the pattern? No problem. In this post you will learn how to trace patterns very easily.
The most important things at a glance
- Here you will find helpful tips and tricks for using and copying patterns
- In this post I will explain how to transfer the pattern and what you need to transfer the cut stress-free from the pattern sheet
- I will introduce you to important materials you need to use and copy patterns
Of course you could cut out your favorite cut directly from the pattern sheet and get started. Buuuut...
...imagine you need (as often happens to me) a different clothing size? Then you have the expensive pattern, but no way to sew it in a different size.
So copying is the solution.
I will introduce you to two methods in this post, both of which work well for me. However, I prefer the tracing method when many markings need to be transferred from the pattern.
You might also like to read my post about common pattern problems through! :) All information about the symbols on the patterns can also be found in a detailed blog post.
To transfer the cut from the pattern sheet you need:
Method 1: Transparent Paper
To trace patterns I really like using pattern paper.* It is soft, fits well against paper and fabric, can be pinned with sewing pins and does not crumple like "normal" paper. It also takes pencil very well, so you can draw the pattern pieces from the pattern sheet without much pressure.
The Swedish transfer paper comes in 1 meter wide rolls with 10 meters length. This is what it looks like:
Alternatively, quite normal tissue paper* or the end rolls from newspaper production also work quite well. Just ask at the print shop!
If you want to use tissue paper, make sure to let the smooth side face the pattern sheet and the rough side face up. It draws better on the rough side and does not reflect.
I also really like using the semi-transparent pattern paper* from Prym. It can be labeled really well (and with many types of pens) and is tear-resistant. I have also had very good experiences with it for storing patterns.
Alternative: Use architect paper for patterns? That works!
Architect paper* is sometimes also called tracing paper. It is a firm, transparent paper that can be painted, cut and ironed. So ideal for our purposes, right?
*The paper comes in a roll of usually 10 meters and is 63 cm wide, which is wide enough for most clothing patterns. And since adhesive film also adheres well to the paper, you can also glue two strips together for larger pieces.
Method 2: Wrapping paper, party tablecloth or similar
In method 2, the pattern sheet is placed on the tracing paper. Therefore, you can also use paper that is not transparent for this method.
Important accessories for transferring the pattern
This accessory helps you to copy patterns cleanly. To make sewing really fun, you should have a basic sewing kit.
Copying patterns with a tracing wheel
For a long time I wondered what these somewhat antiquated-looking tracing wheels* are for. Since I finally dared to sew clothes, I know. You place the tracing paper under the pattern sheet. Then you roll the tracing wheel over the lines of the pattern pieces.
I "inherited" a tracing wheel, but it was already quite worn out. Therefore, I ordered this double pack*. The tracing wheel teeth make markings at intervals of 2 and 4 millimeters. In my experience, the shorter interval is great for fabric. I use the 4-millimeter spacing wheel for leather, because the long teeth grip better.
This creates a perforation, where you can cut out the pattern piece afterwards.
Attention: The teeth of the tracing wheel can be really sharp. To make sure it does not leave marks on the table top, I place my cutting mat underneath.
This also makes the fabric lie better and not slip as easily. Also, I can orient myself well using the scale of the cutting mat*.
*
Pencil
A soft pencil* is great for transferring darts and markings from the pattern.
French curve
To follow lines really precisely, a French curve* is a good idea!
And for the following reasons:
- I use it to guide the tracing wheel or the soft pencil securely along the pattern
- With the French curve I hold the pattern paper in place
- At the same time I press the paper onto the pattern sheet with the curve, so that I can see the lines well
- Also, the curve prevents me from pushing the paper "ahead of me" with the pencil
- To draw darts, I turn the curve around and use the straight side
This is what a French curve looks like:
*Understanding the pattern sheet
Depending on how many pieces your desired pattern has, you should first find out which pattern pieces belong to it. Then you select the size that is right for you. The sizes are shown on the pattern in different lines. Make sure when copying that you always follow the correct size line. This can be tricky especially in the sleeve area, because many lines come together there.
Look at your desired pattern on the pattern sheet more closely. Do some lines end with arrows? Don't worry! That just means that the pattern piece is larger than the sheet. So take the straight side of your French curve (you can of course also use a patchwork ruler) and extend the lines in the direction of the arrow. Make sure to really place the ruler on the line, so that the line does not make a kink!
In some patterns (mostly older ones), the seam line is also drawn. If you are working with such a pattern, you also have to transfer the seam line.
If there are several patterns on the pattern sheet, they are numbered. The numbers are found not only on the pattern itself but also on the edge of the pattern sheet. This helps you to find your pattern among the many confusing lines. :)
To make copying easier later, you can trace the targeted pattern with a felt-tip pen or Edding. However, I advise against doing it freehand. I also use the French curve for this.
Also, I like to shade the different parts of a pattern with a highlighter to keep an overview.
It is very important that you also trace the markings with a felt-tip pen when drawing, so that you do not forget them when transferring.
Copying patterns
Method 1
When your pattern sheet is prepared, you can lay the transparent paper on top. To be safe, you should pin it down with a few sewing pins, so that nothing slips when copying.
Then you follow the lines of your pattern with the tracing wheel or the pencil (guided securely by the French curve). Then transfer all markings with a pencil, for example darts, buttonholes or pockets.
When you draw the pattern, short dashed lines are enough. It is not necessary to copy the pattern in a continuous line. This reduces the chance of something shifting the tracing paper through the pressure of the pen.
Then label all parts so that you do not lose overview later. Remember to also mark the grainline of the fabric with an arrow! This is important!
Check in the pattern description whether the seam allowance is included.
Method 2
As a second option, you can use affordable tracing paper. Place it under the pattern piece. Secure it well with sewing pins.
Now you need your tracing wheel with fine teeth again. Use it (again guided by the French curve) to trace along the cut lines. Remember to also trace extensions, notches, and markings with the tracing wheel. The fine teeth allow you to transfer the lines and markings precisely.
With this method too, you should make sure to label all pattern pieces directly and draw in the grainline.
Cutting out the pattern
Now you can cut out your copied pieces. You may need to add a seam allowance here if it is not already included in the pattern.
Be sure to use paper scissors for cutting - fabric scissors should only cut fabric. Otherwise, they will become dull. :)
Are you now just missing the right pattern? How about my great Guste hoodie?
A word about the fabric before you get started.
Let's start with the fabric: It should be prewashed and ironed if possible.
Why is that?
Cotton and jersey & co. often shrink during the first wash. This means that a garment sewn from unwashed fabric can shrink by several centimeters after washing. And a few centimeters can make a huge difference in fit.
Freshly washed fabric should be allowed to dry flat if possible. On the clothesline, the wet fabric is stretched unevenly due to its own weight and becomes distorted. This can later affect the fit of your sewn piece.
When ironing, especially blended fabrics, the iron temperature should be based on the most delicate fabric fiber.
Ironing instead of washing?
One alternative is to slowly iron the fabric from the wrong side with plenty of steam. The fabric should not be pushed or pulled, but laid nice and flat - and also allowed to cool flat.
For cutting out later, fold the fabric lengthwise and lay it flat on the table with the selvages facing you. Avoid smoothing the fabric (especially knitted or jersey fabrics) with your hand, because this can also create stretch marks and thus unevenness.
Storing the pattern
After you have put so much effort into your freshly cut out patterns, you should now also store them properly so that you can use them again later.
For this purpose, I make pretty pattern cuffs out of old cardboard rolls. Then I have also done something good for the environment. ;)
What to do if the pattern is not visible through the tracing paper?
Terribly annoying, right?
Here are 2 tricks that will make tracing the pattern a breeze.
Sometimes the lines of the pattern are so fine that they are barely visible through the strong and tear-resistant pattern paper.
Trick No. 1: Place a second layer of paper underneath
Then it helps to place a second sheet of tracing paper under the pattern. The pattern is thus sandwiched between two layers of tracing paper.
This eliminates the transparency of the pattern and you can see the lines clearly.
Trick No. 2: Trace at the window
Do you happen to have a large, easily accessible window? Then tape the pattern and tracing paper together to the window. Then you can see the lines perfectly and trace them!
Happy simple sewing,
your Sabine
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