Fusible interfacing, interlining, sewing fleece – tips, tricks, info

Vlieseline, interfacing, batting: For many sewing fans, it's truly confusing. Learn now what types of batting and interfacing exist, how and for what they are used, and where you can get them.

The most important things at a glance

• In this post, I have put together all sorts of useful information about batting and interfacing for you to give you an overview of the differences and what the various materials can be used for
• There are countless varieties of Vlieseline, many of which I have tested for you
• Often, it is simply the combination of different materials that makes a sewing project complete; non-wovens, interfacing, etc. play a major part in this
• Non-wovens and fusible interfacing serve for rigidity, insulation, simplifying work, and fixation, and also provide volume and stability

I use Vlieseline and interfacing in a great many of my sewing projects. Some batting fabrics are a permanent part of my material stash, while others I use for specific tasks. For example, for patchwork projects!

My reading tip: Strengthening fabrics: Using Vlieseline correctly

You are naturally already familiar with many types of batting from my sewing instructions. Vlieseline H 630^*, for example. It is nicely thin but still gives bags and pouches a lovely, voluminous feel without being bulky at the seams. When I want a little more volume, I use Vlieseline H 640^*.

I also love sewing with Thermolam^* because it is so firm and thin, yet still has a nice feel to it. The result is not "wobbly," as can be the case with cotton batting. It holds its shape - even after washing. When I sew owl potholders or Log Cabin potholders, I usually use one layer of Thermolam and one layer of cotton or soy batting.

Often, it is simply the combination of different materials that makes a sewing project complete.

READING TIP: If you need more specific information on the topic of patchwork and batting, take a look at this post: Fabrics and batting for patchwork

Jeannette Knake from Freudenberg, the manufacturer of Vlieseline, says: "With the right reinforcement, I can practically execute any sewing project from any fabric."

In this post, we will take a look at what exactly she means by that. You can listen to our Vlieseline podcast with general information here:

https://sewsimple.de/folge-30-vlieseline-tipps/

Why use batting when sewing?

Perhaps you are wondering why you should use batting for sewing projects at all. Different types of batting give various fabric types the properties one wants for a project. An example: A simple cotton fabric can become a pouch, a handy market bag, or even a sturdy backpack with the right batting.

What do the number or letter in Vlieseline names mean?

Many think that the number in the Vlieseline name allows conclusions to be drawn about what it is suitable for or how thick it is. That is not true. You can remember the number, for example H250 or H609, to find the product again. However, the number does not allow for any conclusions about the material properties.
The same applies to the letters. For example, with G700, a woven interfacing, one might still make a mnemonic link to the product. The fact is that product names follow the internal processes and requirements of manufacturing and cataloging.

Get informed on the topic: Strengthening fabrics

Using batting for sewing

Batting and interfacing come into question for the most diverse applications in sewing. Often, the batting makes the difference in the look and feel of the finished project. If you use a firm batting, the finished project is particularly stable and shows straight, exact edges. With a soft batting, the cushioning effect is often more in the foreground. You can emphasize it particularly well with quilting stitches.

Here are a few examples of how I use different types of batting when sewing.

Sewing pear potholders: Appliqué with Vliesofix, inner lining made of Thermolam.

Sewing Log Cabin potholders with Thermolam

For the owl potholders for children I resort to a combination of Vlieseline H 630 and Thermolam:

As an alternative to Thermolam, I recently discovered the American original. It is called Insul Bright^* and is actually a thin aluminum foil that is coated with polyester on both sides. It is also great to sew and process.

A cool (in the truest sense of the word) variation - and at the same time a real secret tip! - to standard commercial batting is ironing board padding^*. It is slightly thicker than Thermolam, nicely stable, and is really good to work with.

To give you an overview of what types of batting and interfacing exist and what they can be used for, I have put together all sorts of useful information on the topic for you.

The list does not claim to be exhaustive - I am introducing some of the most common non-woven fabrics. Naturally, there are many other manufacturers and products, which I have not all tested, however.

What are non-wovens, interfacing, etc. used for?

In this post, I answer the question which batting is used for what and what one must watch out for when applying batting. For this purpose, I am introducing some well-known batting products and going into their special features and characteristics. There are countless varieties of batting and I have tried to test as many as possible for you. That was quite a mammoth task, let me tell you :)

Does Vlieseline shrink?

Vlieseline is a material that, once ironed onto the back of the fabric, does not shrink. Neither the woven interfacing nor the non-woven interfacing shrinks when washed.

Can you wash Vlieseline?

Usually, the fabric edge indicates the temperature at which the batting or interfacing can be washed. You should also take these instructions into account when selecting your fabric.

How do you cut Vlieseline?

You can cut Vlieseline just like fabric with scissors or a rotary cutter. It is particularly exact if you transfer the outlines of the pattern onto the batting beforehand. Of course, you can also pin the pattern onto the batting and cut along the edge of the pattern with a ruler and rotary cutter.

How is Vlieseline ironed on?

Every Vlieseline should be ironed on at the specified temperature, many even with steam. Set your iron to the temperature that Vlieseline recommends for that product. It is good if you use a Vlieseline pressing cloth, for example. It is dampened and placed on the batting. Then, iron until the pressing cloth is dry. Once that is done, let the fabric cool while lying flat so that the plastic has time to bond with the fabric. This takes approx. 15-30 minutes. After that, you can start sewing.

Is Vlieseline breathable?

There are only a few types of batting and interfacing from Vlieseline that are not breathable. These include, for example, Decovil light, which is particularly suitable for very firm bag projects, and the almost leather-like Decovil. Most other interfacings and batting are breathable to ensure a good wearing comfort.

Do you have to consider the grain line with batting and fusible interfacing?

This question appears more often in connection with interfacing. My answer: It depends! ;)

So: If the batting or interfacing is stretchy, i.e., intended for elastic fabrics, then you should definitely observe the grain line here. Also, if the batting or interfacing is bi-elastic, i.e., stretchy in two directions. This is because often one direction is stretchier than the other. You iron the batting or interfacing on so that it stretches in the same direction as the fabric. Otherwise, e.g., facings can appear stiff, wrinkle, and be bulky.

With needle-punched, voluminous, felt-like, and fluffy batting that is not stretchy, there is indeed a grain line (in the longitudinal direction; Info: Per Hendricksen from the Freudenberg company), but in my experience, the batting does not stretch at all. Which means you can simply cut the pattern pieces crosswise to save fabric.

What are batting and interfacing needed for?

Non-woven fabrics and fusible interfacing can fulfill quite different functions. For example:

• Rigidity: Non-woven fabrics can make cotton fabrics, which do not have enough hold in themselves, firm (e.g., for bread baskets or organizers)
• Volume: Batting adds bulk and fullness to blankets
• Insulation: Thermolam and Insul Bright have insulating properties. This is utilized when they are used for potholders and seat cushions. Besides that, they also provide structure and fullness!
• Stabilization: To sew buttonholes in fine fabrics or to give hold to fine knit seams, one can treat the fabrics with suitable batting (e.g., Soluvlies or Avalon) before the respective step
• Dimensional stability: Different types of batting and interfacing firm up collars, seams, flap pockets, lapels, and cuffs
• Simplifying work: By working with underlying embroidery stabilizer, embroidering fabric pieces becomes easier; at the same time, the stabilizer prevents the embroidery stitches from sinking
• Fixation: Double-sided adhesive batting facilitates the appliqué of motifs and prevents their edges from fraying

Fusible Interfacing

Vlieseline H 180

H 180 is a thin fusible interfacing for very fine, slippery fabrics like acetate, silk, cupro, or viscose. It is used to reinforce collars, cuffs, or waistbands. It is ironed onto the back of the fabric with low to medium ironing heat and can be both machine washed at 40°C and dry-cleaned. H180 is available in black^* and white^*.

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Vlieseline H 200

Suitable for light to medium fabrics such as cotton and polyester, it is washable at 40°C and also available in black^* and white^*. It is often used when sewing blouses and dresses.

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F 220 iron-on interfacing

This light iron-on interfacing is used for small items, e.g., made from cotton fabric and other light weaves, but is also used in the field of arts and crafts. It can be washed at 60°C. It is available in the colors white and graphite.

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Vlieseline H 250

A stable interfacing for cotton fabrics. It is well-suited for small bags, belts, collars, and waistband processing, for example in skirts and trousers. H250 is machine washable at 60°C.

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Vlieseline S 320 (Buckram interfacing)

A firm interfacing that is well-suited for wallets, bags, and pouches. It is ironed onto the back of the fabric, is one-sided adhesive, and can be washed at 40°C.

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During processing, H 320 can be somewhat stiff, making it well-suited for bags. It provides a crisp, clean structure.

G 405 iron-on interfacing

It is also ironed onto the back of the fabric and is suitable for fine to medium fabrics such as wool and wild silk. It is used for special tasks in the area of outerwear, for example to reinforce the front sides of jackets, bags, collars, or flaps.

H 410 iron-on interfacing

H410 is a stretch interfacing suitable for length-elastic fabrics, as it is equipped with stabilizing threads in the longitudinal direction. When ironing on the interfacing, one should absolutely ensure that the direction of the threads matches the grain of the fabric. The iron-on interfacing is suitable for particularly soft outer fabrics, jackets, collars, flaps, and bags.

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Vlieseline LE 420

LE stands for "Leather" – and that is exactly what it is intended for. It is related to Decovil and has a similar feel. It is suitable for heat-sensitive fabrics, leather, and faux fur (and fur, but as my grandma used to say: "Only animals and sluts wear fur!" ;) ). It stabilizes the material without stiffening it and gives structure to collars, cuffs, flaps, etc., on jackets and coats.

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Vlieseline H 609

A real jack-of-all-trades! Suitable as a stretch interfacing for elastic fabrics such as jersey, viscose, and knit fabrics, and is primarily used in the production of outerwear. Available in black^* and white^*. Important to know: After ironing on, the fabric must cool down lying flat for at least 30 minutes so that the coating can bond properly with the fabric.

H609 is used as area reinforcement for soft, thin jersey and sweatshirt fabrics, or used in strips as edge reinforcement. It is highly elastic horizontally and slightly less elastic vertically, which makes it possible for you to use H609 for sewing projects with varying degrees of stretch.

Example A cotton jersey skirt with a body-hugging cut: So that the garment does not sag due to stretching when sitting down, you can reinforce it with Vlieseline H609 in a width of 30–35 cm, a hand's breadth above and below the buttocks. The fabric retains its elasticity but no longer sags. By the way, this trick is also great for knee and elbow areas (e.g., for blazers made of jersey or French terry). Thus, also perfect for the knee and buttock zones of sweatpants.

Pro tip from Vlieseline expert Jeannette Knake: You can also wonderfully reinforce finished sewn models with H609. It is important that the interfacing bonds very well with the fabric and is then allowed to cool down well.

Jeannette's insider tip: If you like embroidering jersey and use polyester thread as a bobbin thread for it, you can subsequently iron a piece of H 609 onto the embroidery area. Then the embroidered area is beautifully soft and does not scratch the skin. Important for sensitive children's skin (and not only for theirs!).

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Unlike most of its Vlieseline siblings, the H609 is only 75 cm wide, but also washable at 40°C.

Vlieseline H 630

Vlieseline H630 has a one-sided coating and is ironed onto the fabric at setting 2 – 3. It is supplied in a width of 90 cm. It is washable at 60°C and is suitable for fabrics, paper, cardboard, wood, felt, and other fibers.

I really like using H 630 for sewing a cosmetic bag.

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G 700 fabric interfacing

An interfacing that consists of pure cotton and is therefore particularly well-suited for outerwear. It is ironed onto the back of the fabric and reinforces collars, cuffs, and flaps. It is available in black^* and white^*.

G 710 fabric interfacing

It is ironed onto the back (especially of cotton fabrics) in the longitudinal direction and stabilizes small items on blouses, shirts, and dresses. Washable at 40°C and also tolerates dry cleaning. Available in black and white.

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G 740 fabric interfacing

The interfacing consists of cotton and is ironed onto the back of firm, more stable fabrics, for example jeans, corduroy, canvas. It, too, reinforces the collars of jackets and coats, as well as their small parts, with its roughened surface. It can be obtained in the colors ecru^* and black^*.

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G 770 fabric interfacing

This fabric interfacing is used for medium-weight, delicate, and elastic fabrics and is also ironed onto the back of the fabric.

G 770 is 75 cm wide and washable at 40°C. It is used for garments where softness, volume, and the recovery of the material are important.

G 785 fabric interfacing

It is suitable for bi-elastic, soft, fine, and flowing types of fabric such as silk, acetate, cupro, or viscose. You use it to reinforce small items on blouses, jackets, shirts, dresses, or coats. It is particularly fine for these special tasks, but is also ironed onto the back of the fabrics. It is available in black^*, white^*, and beige^*.

Decovil I light

A medium-weight interfacing that is well-suited for bags, belts, hats, backpacks, and wallets.

It can be washed at 30°C.

Decovil I light is one of my all-time favorites because it is very easy to sew and work with, and, most importantly, it doesn't distort in the slightest. Neither when sewing, nor afterwards while using the bags and pouches.

Decovil I

The sturdier alternative to Decovil I light – with a hand that feels more like leather, Decovil I is suitable for bags, hats, and belts that need to hold their shape well. Working with it in bags can be tricky because the material's rigidity might make them difficult to turn right side out. Decovil I is available in white and beige.

Tip: Burn marks can quickly appear on Decovil I when ironing. This can be avoided by placing a kitchen towel between the interfacing and the iron. Parchment paper also works as an alternative!

I use the heavy-duty Decovil I, for example, when I sew sewing kits. You can find instructions with a free pattern in this blog post.

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Embroidery Stabilizers

Embroidery Stabilizer (Stitch'n'Tear)

Embroidery stabilizer can be used both under and on top of the fabric. Under the fabric, the stabilizer supports the material during embroidery and is simply torn away afterwards.

On top of the fabric, you can, for example, draw designs onto the stabilizer and sew over them using free-motion embroidery. Once done, the stabilizer is torn away here as well.

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I really like using this embroidery stabilizer when, for example, embroidering with the sewing machine.

Filmoplast Embroidery Stabilizer H54

H 54 is a self-adhesive embroidery stabilizer used for collages or embroidery art, for example. It is also suitable for machine embroidery. It is tearable and printed with a grid pattern.

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Madeira Embroidery Stabilizer Cotton Soft/Stable

It stabilizes the fabric during embroidery and prevents stitches from sinking in.

Cotton Soft is a tear-away stabilizer suitable for medium-weight fabrics.

Cotton Stable is an iron-on, tear-away embroidery stabilizer suitable for stretchy fabrics. It can be used, for example, to stabilize seams on jersey shirts or appliqués on knitwear.

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Tear-away Stabilizer

In principle, tear-away stabilizer is nothing other than embroidery stabilizer. This one from Madeira is made of 100% cotton and is suitable for light to medium-weight fabrics. It can also be used on the top or bottom of the fabric and prevents the stitches from sinking in.

You can also use it when embroidering fabrics with an embroidery machine, or, as with the ERLA bag, when you want to stabilize buttonholes while sewing.

Vliesofix (Bondaweb)

Vliesofix, also known as Bondaweb, is wonderful for appliqués, embroidery projects, and patchwork. It adheres on one side to a carrier sheet. You iron it onto the back of the fabric using this. Then, you peel off the carrier paper, and the pretreated fabric can be ironed into place.

It is also very well-suited for paper, cardboard, felt, or napkin technique, and for patching and repairing clothing. Vliesofix is washable up to 60°C.

I use Vliesofix for appliqués that I intend to sew around afterwards (otherwise, I much prefer using Heat'nBond Ultra Hold^* nowadays), like for my placemats (click here for the tutorial)

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Soluvlies

Soluvlies is a real all-rounder. It can be ironed on, but also simply placed under the fabric. It stabilizes seams on jersey and knit fabrics, prevents embroidery stitches from sinking in, can be drawn on with embroidery patterns, serves as a base for buttonholes - and can then be washed out without leaving any residue.

Avalon

Avalon is a water-soluble embroidery film that is well-suited for the pizza technique, which I showed you in my blog post about it. It is suitable for organza, silk, tulle, as well as terry cloth and knitwear, and for reinforcing buttonholes in delicate, thin fabrics. Upon contact with water, it dissolves and can be completely washed away.

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Avalon is also great for embroidery (by hand or machine) and for appliqués.

Heat'n'Bond Ultra Hold

For anyone who only knows Vliesofix, I highly recommend this miracle product.

Heat'n'Bond Ultra Hold is a sturdier version of Vliesofix. It works miles better and—after applying it, you don't even have to sew it down!

It is available in various grades—from light hold to Ultra. We used it for our pizza technique—and are really enthusiastic because it's so easy to work with, irons on in a flash, and the carrier film is easy to peel off. On top of all that, sewing with it is a real pleasure—no stopping, no gumming up—it goes through like butter!

Heat'n'Bond Ultra Hold Soft Stretch

Due to its elasticity, Heat'n'Bond Ultra Hold Soft Stretch is suitable for stretchy fabrics such as stretch denim, jersey, flannel, sweat fabric, knitwear, spandex, and fleece.

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Heat'n'Bond Extra Firm^*

Heat'n'Bond Extra Firm is suitable for handbags, wallets—in short, for any sewing project that needs more stability.

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Thermoweb

Thermoweb Adhesive Heat'n'Bond can be printed on in a printer and transferred to fabric, making it excellent for appliqués on stretchy fabrics.

Heat'n'Bond Lite Iron On

In terms of application, it is exactly like Vliesofix: simply iron onto the back of the fabric, let cool, peel off the carrier film, and iron into place. However, the appliqué should definitely be sewn down with an appliqué stitch as well.

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For me, it is more effective than the aforementioned Vliesofix because I find that it bonds more firmly with the fabric.

Heat'n'Bond Vinyl (glossy or matte)

Works like the well-known Lamifix: it is ironed onto the right side of the fabric and makes it waterproof. Suitable, for example, for mug rugs or placemats.

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Bosal Foam

Here is a real insider tip!

Anyone who likes sewing bags but is looking for a soft, sturdy, flexible iron-on foam interfacing should try Bosal. I have to say, this stuff is amazing! It can be quickly ironed onto the back of fabrics and then left to cool.

In terms of feel, I think it's a bit like Style-vil.

Sewing with it also works super well and easily. Great for all kinds of bags that need structure and body!

When ordering, you should keep in mind that Bosal is shipped from the USA and takes quite a while to make it across the pond. Mine arrived after four weeks!

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Sew-in Interfacings

Sew-in Interfacing L 11

This is also a Vlieseline product used where the material cannot come into contact with ironing heat. It is sewn in and is washable at 60°C. It is lightweight and white and is suitable for reinforcing collars and cuffs.

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Sew-in Interfacing M 12

M 12 is somewhat sturdier than L 11 and is suitable for firmer, more stable types of fabric.

The M in M 12 stands for "medium"; the interfacing is sewn in and stabilizes the front sections of dresses, jackets, coats, and vests. It is also frequently used for collars, pockets, and flaps, or for collar reinforcement in suit jackets (also known as a canvas or interfacing).

Sew-in Interfacing S 13

S 13 refers to a very stable sew-in interfacing suitable for stabilizing heavy fabrics. It provides structure to items such as bread baskets, storage organizers, bag bottoms, or cap visors, for example. It is washable at 60°C. It is sewn in by hand or by machine.

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Vlieseline Style Vil

One of my favorite non-woven fabrics. Style Vil is a thin foam interfacing that is sewn in, so it has no adhesive dots. It is made of polyester and polyurethane and is washable at 30°C. It comes in a width of around 70 centimeters.

I really like using Style Vil when I sew the legendary Boxy Bag, because it needs to have both structure and a nice soft feel.

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Batting/Wadding

Vlieseline 249

Thin batting suitable for warm clothing and quilting work. It is placed underneath and sewn in; it is available in two different widths (90 and 150 cm) and can be washed at 60°C.

Vlieseline 266 Wool Mix

Wool Mix is a Vlieseline product made of 80% wool and 20% polyester, covered with a thin layer of fleece to prevent fibers from "migrating." It is used primarily for lighter quilting work and children's clothing, is washable at 30°C, and comes in a width of 148 cm.

Double-sided Batting

Double-sided non-woven fabrics are well-suited for ironing on appliqués or for joining multiple layers of fabric simultaneously; in this case, the double-sided fusion with the fabric prevents the layers from slipping. The batting can also be used to attach ribbons and trimmings, creating an interesting 3D effect.

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It consists of 100% polyester, is washable at 40°C, suitable for tumble drying, and is available in 4 different thicknesses. It is very well-suited for things like placemats or table runners.

Vlieseline P 250

P 250 is a heavy, lofty batting. It is a heavy, very voluminous, flame-retardant, sewable polyester batting. It is well-suited for patchwork and quilting work, quilts, play mats, upholstery, seat cushions, as well as warm clothing such as jackets, coats, or safety apparel.

Thermolam 272

Thermolam is a relatively thin, firm batting made of 100% polyester. It is washable at 30°C and is well-suited for covering ironing boards, for potholders, quilts, baby blankets, and as an interfacing for storage organizers, table runners, or placemats.

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Insul Bright

Insul Bright is used for similar sewing projects, but in this case, a layer of aluminum is incorporated for better insulation. It is recommended to use one layer of Insul Bright with one layer of neutral batting.

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277 Cotton

Very soft batting to be sewn into quilts and clothing; it consists of 100% cotton and does not fray. Washable at 30°C.

278 Soya-Mix

Soy batting can be used just like cotton batting, but it shrinks slightly less when washed. It is also well-suited for bags, potholders, and all types of patchwork work. It is very easy to sew and does not "drag" on the fabric feed (as cotton batting sometimes does).

279 Cotton Mix 20/80

A soft batting made of 80% cotton and 20% polyester. It is needle-punched, meaning it has been mechanically reinforced, yet it still has a soft feel and low weight. It is well-suited for use in quilts, bedspreads, and wall hangings, as well as for large-area use in light jackets.

Polyester Batting/Upholstery Padding

Voluminous non-woven fabrics come in various versions, with the gram weight serving as a guide for the loft of the padding. For example: 300 g corresponds to a height/thickness of 3 centimeters. The affordable upholstery padding can be washed at 30°C and is 160 cm wide. It is outstanding for chair cushions, seat pads, play mats, or baby nests.

Pro-Tip: If the upholstery padding occasionally "drags" a bit while sewing, I place my sewing project on a piece of parchment paper. It then becomes much easier to work with the batting.

Cotton Batting

Cotton batting is the traditional interfacing for quilting and patchwork, for example for sewing a patchwork quilt. Cotton batting is offered in many different sizes. The material is characterized by its excellent washability. Patchwork quilts sewn with cotton batting shrink slightly when washed, resulting in a nice vintage effect.

Cotton batting is also very well-suited for sewing a baby sleep sack, sewing a kicking bag, or sewing a baby blanket.

Because cotton batting is used primarily for quilt making, it can be found in very large cuts.

I like to use cotton batting, for example, when I am sewing bag bottoms. It can also be used great for sewing dishcloths.

Special Case Solufix: What You Can Do with It

Don't know Solufix? Well, it's about time! Solufix is a self-adhesive non-woven fabric that sticks to a carrier film. It dissolves completely in the first wash. Jeannette Knake from Freudenberg/Vlieseline got me hooked on Solufix. For me, Solufix has since become a kind of "helper in need" and I must never run out of it. You can use it, for example, like this:

1. Printing: You can print on Solufix – example: our sew-painted insect pillows. The motifs are printed directly onto a piece of Solufix cut to A4 size – works with inkjet and laser printers.
2. Tracing: You can also trace motifs, e.g., you've sewn yourself a dress with a floral pattern, have a scrap piece left over, and copy the contours of the flowers. You then embroider this onto a plain fabric as a complement to the dress. In this way, you can piece together entire thematic stories.
3. Assembling motifs from fabric scraps: Here is an example: You draw a motif on Solufix, cut out colorful pieces of fabric from scraps, peel the Solufix off the carrier paper, adhesive side up, and glue the fabric pieces into the motif. Then stick the entire motif onto a T-shirt or bag piece and stitch over the contours. Wash it out 😊
4. As a backing for "crazy" appliqué:

• Peel off the Solufix and place it in front of you with the adhesive side facing up.
• Scatter fabric scraps or yarn threads on it, or arrange a picture,
• Stick it onto a solid-colored fabric and wildly stitch over it. Make sure to catch every scrap with stitches.

5. Gluing in zippers – instead of pins,

6. Fixing zipper slits on the reverse side so that the topstitches run straight.

7. Stabilizing buttonhole plackets by sticking Solufix to the back of the fabric. For structured fabrics like muslin or seersucker, you can also stabilize the top side with Solufix. Then you can sew the buttonholes without any problems.

8. Fixing pockets during fittings and much more 😊

This is what Solufix looks like:

Reinforcing with Tapes

1. Bundfix^*: An interfacing that can be used to reinforce waistbands for skirts and pants, belts, and much more. Bundfix has perforated lines, meaning you can wonderfully fold the tape right there without having to measure anything.
2. Stay Tape (Formband):^* Used to reinforce edges of non-elastic fabrics before sewing.

Click here for the product description of Bundfix and Stay Tape.

1. Framilastic^*: Transparent and very stretchy, perfect for reinforcing the leg openings of swimsuits; also great for gathering and ruffling.
2. Edge Tape:^* Bias-cut interfacing with a reinforcing thread; perfect for edges on necklines and armholes.
3. Kantenfix^*: Suitable for all types of fabric; this tape has a perforated line that makes folding/ironing easier; great for button plackets, flap pockets, zippers, and more.
4. Flexible Seam Tape^*: Bi-elastic and knitted, perfect for light, stretchy fabrics.

Click here for the product description of Framilastic, edge tape, flexible seam tape, and Kantenfix.

1. Perfektsaum:^* Double-layered interfacing joined with a blind stitch, double-sided adhesive, ironed into hems that are not intended to be topstitched to the outer fabric again afterwards.
2. Saumfix^*: Iron-on hem tape, suitable for all fabrics.
3. Stretchfix Tape:^* Hem tape for elastic fabrics.

Click here for the product description of Perfektsaum, Saumfix, and Stretchfix tape.

1. Vliesofix Tape^*: For ironing onto bias strips, belt loops, or for braiding techniques; Vliesofix (known from appliqués), just as a pre-cut tape.

Click here for the product description of Vliesofix tape.

Reinforcing special fabrics

There are fabrics that require special treatment. These include, for example, muslin and coarse-knit fabrics. The Vlieseline expert also has a few great tips in store for these materials, check it out:

Open-mesh knit fabrics (like hand-knitted)

• G 770 – medium-weight woven interfacing with a very soft surface. Minimally flexible (stretchy). Slightly voluminous and therefore perfect for stabilizing coarse-knit fabrics. Please be sure to do an ironing test here, as many coarse-knit fabrics have a high synthetic content. A damp cloth (or the Iron-on pressing cloth) protects against heat damage.
• G 770 can also be used in 3–5 cm strips under facings. This Vlieseline product is an absolute comfort woven interfacing and is a highlight for blazers, coats, jackets, and hoods.

Working with Double Gauze and Muslin

The problem with muslin: It actually needs to be reinforced for facings and button plackets. But ironing isn't the best idea for crinkled fabrics. You can solve this by using facings made of smooth fabrics in a similar color.

If you want to use muslin, this trick helps: When reinforcing, you can try ironing on Vlieseline H609 first, then washing the fabric, drying it, and then cutting it out without ironing. This eliminates the risk of the ironed fabric contracting while drying and the facing or button placket shrinking. The same applies, by the way, to bias tape made of muslin, which is used to bind necklines, for example.

• Both fabrics are not fully elastic, but they are not rigid either, as they have minimal flexibility. Here, for example, H 609 can be used in a vertical cut—an ironing test must be done on a scrap piece, as these two fabrics are offered for summer designs that should not be ironed.
• Please inform yourself well. Important with muslin: Wash first—then process after drying.

My tips for handling Vlieseline and sewing interfacings

• Before you get started, you should read the manufacturer's instructions: Different interfacings are also processed differently.
• Some interfacings have a blue print that contains information on which ironing time at which heat level the interfacing needs to bond effectively with the fabric.
• Look at which side of the interfacing is equipped with adhesive dots: This is the side that the interfacing uses to make contact with the fabric (sometimes you can recognize the adhesive side by its slight sheen!)
• Iron the interfacings on before you cut the fabric: Interfacing tends to "wander"—this can cause the fabric to distort.
• Let the fabric cool down well while lying flat after ironing: This gives the plastic layer a chance to bond firmly with the fabric.
• Sturdy interfacings like Decovil or buckram should not be stored folded if possible: I either roll them up and secure them with a strip of fabric or I ask in the fabric store for a cardboard tube, which I then roll the interfacings onto and store lying down or standing up.
• If the iron doesn't glide well over the interfacing: Place a dish towel over it and continue ironing.
• It is also important to me to iron the fabric once more thoroughly—from the right (the good) side of the fabric: This ensures that no unevenness has arisen; this can happen with voluminous interfacings, but also with bag interfacings like Decovil.
• When ironing on, I make sure not to "drag" the iron over the interfacing, but press it onto the fabric: this prevents the "interfacing wandering" described above ;)
• To protect the ironing board from unwanted adhesive residue, I put a layer of baking parchment underneath when ironing on.
• Did the iron get some of the plastic on it? Take a look at my first-aid sewing tips.

I hope I was able to give you a brief overview of the topic of Vlieseline, interfacings & Co.

Which interfacing do you like working with best? Feel free to write me a comment below with your experiences!

Happy simple sewing, your Sabine

Frequently asked questions